scott_g2

Thanks for your thoughts. Sorry for the typo...that should read 07-18-02.

While I am not happy about the loss, it is just "stuff". Expensive stuff, but still stuff. Plus all can be replace with a few phone calls to a dealer or two. Just doing my part to stimulate the lagging economy!

Thanks again...and stay safe.

Just an FYI for those folks who might run across this stuff.

Photo Equipment Stolen!

Please be on the look out for my photo equipment stolen from my home

in Mesa on Thursday 07-18-92

1. Leica R8 35mm black body s/n 2752099

2. Leica R8 35mm-chrome/black body with �grid� style viewing screen

and body cap. s/n unknown. (Kirk Enterprises quick release plate

attached)

3. Leica motor-drive for R8 with Really Right Stuff quick release

plate attached. (this drive was attached to the black R8 body) New

Leica power cell installed. s/n unknown.

4. Leica Summicron 35/2 lens s/n 03477921 with 55mm Heliopan (or B+W

MRC) UV filter attached.

5. Mamiya 7II 6x7 black camera body with strap and caps. s/n TC1253

Witness reports these and other items taken by a white male, driving

a late model black ford pickup truck.

Please contact your local Police Department if you have any

information.

Refer to Mesa Police Department report #2002-1990854

Or, contact Scott Grane at 480-216-0055

Thank you.

Rachel,

I have the 80 and find to be just about ideal. Especially since the M7 came as a kit with it. I have not used a 65mm but my personal preference leans toward wider lenses. If had only one lens, I would prefer the 65.

80% of my use of the M7 is landscapes. Using the M7 for travel is a mixed blessing; often I cannot get far enough back with the 80 to get the shot. Changing lenses is not as easy as with a SLR and the external finder required for the 50 and 43 are a royal pain if you are moving quickly. The 65 are the widest lens that does not require an external finder.

Because I prefer wide angles, if I were to buy again, and could afford the additional cost of a 65mm lens and body over the savings of the 80/M7 kit I would get the 65.

The best advise I was given, but choose to ignore would be, contact a local dealer and see if you can rent or demo the camera and both lenses before you order from Robert White. You will know very quickly what is best for you, no guessing.

Best of luck!

Geert,

You can take a look at Doug Herr's review of both versions of the 19 as well as the 21 at "http://www.wildlightphoto.com/leica".

I have second version and think it is great, but geez is it pricy. For landscapes I really cannot take advantage of the better performance wide open. I think the 1st version of the 19 or the 21 might be the best bargin. Plus you may be able to use filters on them unlike the second version 19.

Best of luck.

Hello Marke,

Seems like your doing everything correctly. The drive is pretty easy to figure out even without a manual.

I am sure you have looked things over well, but take a look at a few things like; check the power pack to make sure it has a charge, make sure the manual film advance lever is pushed forward to its stop, and take a look at the body/drive contacts for dirt and debris.

If that does not correct the problem you can rewind the film manually. Then, I would see if I could try the drive on another R8. This would help isolate the problem and assist you when you contact B&H or Leica for service.

The drive is pretty handy and mine has been very reliable. I hope yours proves to be the same.

Best of luck

Hi Reto,

I use the motor drive on my R8 and found the bracketing function quite useful. The drive also provides a larger surface and better balance when using bigger lenses. Some here say they think the R8 is at its best with motor drive attached.

For my needs, the drive is a nice accessory but hardly necessary. The winder is much lighter and more compact than the drive. It does take lithium cells but all it does is advance the film.

If decide on the motor drive, you will need to buy the motor drive kit that includes the drive, power pack, and charger. I have found the packs to be reliable but expensive. The charger reconditions the battery packs each time so memory is less of a problem. I usually carry two batteries if I am counting on using the drive. Otherwise I alway bring the standard batteries and holder so that I am not dead in the water should the battery pack fail.

The down side is you are tied to the charger, the drive adds bulk, and weight to carry, and cost.

On the positive, if you use it a lot it might cost less then using disposable batteries, you get auto-bracketing, faster film advance, and the weight helps balance the camera.

Sorry for going so long about this. My opinion is that the R8 is a better camera with the drive attached. However, the drive is the FIRST thing I leave behind when trying to cut weight or bulk.

Best of luck on your decision.

Yon,

<p>

I have the 180/3.4 APO and find it to be a very good lens. Most of

the time I use it mounted on a tripod and find the lens really

benefits from a solid base. I am not sure if Leica would approve,

but I use 180 the most with a macro extender to gain enough stand off

distance and still focus closely.

<p>

However, if I had a chance to pick up a 80-200/4 I would. From all

accounts it is a bargin. The added utilty of the zoom at nearly the

same lens speed really makes this lens attractive to me. The are

times whrn I cannot move my feet in order get the right cropping.

<p>

If you decide to try one please let us know what you think.

I was leaning toward the midrange zoom as a primary lens. Most of my

shots are taken with a 35 followed closely with the 24 and 90.

<p>

Ideally I am looking to put something together that would go from

about 20-24mm to 90-100mm. In order to get the image quailty in this

range do I need to go to an L series lenses or?

Hello All,

<p>

I have started looking for some long glass to replace the 1st version 250mm I have. We are talking some really serious investment here, cubic dollars so to speak.

<p>

I would use the lens as for landscapes and some wildlife. Also, I would use it with a 2x extender from time to time.

<p>

Any folks out there with some experience with Leica long lenses such as the 105-280 or the 280 focal lengths please share your thoughts.

<p>

Also, I have seen listing for a leica 280/2.8 APO but cannot find any information about this lens from the Leica site.

<p>

Thanks!

Kristian,

<p>

I know you don't think the Leica R is a good value for the money, but

here in the US I felt is was. I am very happy with my R8 and lenses.

(most all bought used) Because I started off using SLR's, I find I

am more comfortable using the R then my M6.

<p>

Of course the primary reason for using Leica is their glass. Because

I like to travel light, I have been working to find a the right

combination of primes/zoom for different situations. I have found

the 24/35/90 set fits my needs 90% of the time. Some times I dump

the 35 and take the 35-70/4.

<p>

I have been very happy with these lenses even though many feel the 24

and 90 are not the best R lenses.

<p>

Now I am looking at a small Canon kit for when I need AF, IS, and

long lenses.

<p>

If I my suggest, if you going to move away from Leica, find something

that your comfortable with, something you can expand, and something

you can rent the more expensive glass for when you need it.

<p>

I am sure the Contax is great, but to me it has many of the same

drawbacks Leica has, and none of the advantages of Nikon or Canon.

Great suggestions, many thanks!

<p>

I like the idea of the 70-200/4 L. The 28-70/2.8 seems like a better

choice as far as image quailty, as long as you do not factor in the

IS capability.

<p>

One concern is the jump between the 28 and the 20mm focal length. I

like wide angles and use my 24mm alot. any suggestions on a wide

angle solution to fill this gap?

<p>

I wonder if a good alternative would be a 20-35 USM or similar, a

prime such as 50/1.4/1.8 or , and the 70-200/4 L?

Hello to All,

<p>

I have been through the forum and did not find exactly what I wanted to know so here goes...

<p>

I am looking to move into a SLR system that I can use for general nature and travel photography. Would like it to be resonably sized and more versitle than my current rangefinder kit.

<p>

I am fairly picky when it comes to image quality so my main concern has to do with the lens choices. I shoot mostly Fuji Velvia and Provia F.

<p>

I am thinking of the following:

<p>

1. An EOS 3 body (because it has a spot meter).

2. 20/2.8 USM

3. 28-135 IS USM

4. 180 macro

5. At least one of the Canon dedicated flashes.

<p>

I have no experience with Canon equipment so any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

<p>

Thanks!

Robert,

Thanks for bringing this situation to our attention.

I also live in Arizona and often travel alone when photographing. When not goofing off, I pay the bills by being a law enforcement officer.

Other contributors have made excellent suggestions such as; take a partner, phone, OC/pepper spray, tell a friend when you�re due back etc. Also your description of how you have handled yourself also tells me that you are able to act reasonably under similar situations.

If I may suggest, nothing can be done about any situation unless it is reported to the local agency responsible for the area. I know it feels like a waste of time and you may be met with an indifferent attitude, but that is the only way anything will happen.

Speaking from experience, nothing gets an administrators attention like complaints from the public, politicians and press. The amount of resources and commitment of the administrator rises with the stress induced by their political bosses.

On another tact, I tell my family that to avoid being a victim they must first decide that they are not going to be one. Often the hardest step is the commitment to maintain awareness of your surroundings. (Never let your guard down unless you�re locked safely in your house) I am not suggesting be paranoid, just vigilant. This also means being smart and avoiding situations and areas that may be prone to problems. Never ever, discount that �uneasy feeling� you get about a person or situation. That is your self-survival mechanism talking to you.

Take responsibility for your own safety. Educate yourself on the local, state, and federal laws that relate to use of force and criminal responsibility. You might be surprised on what you learn.

Once armed with knowledge, make some decisions on just what you are willing to do, or not do, BEFORE something happens.

Then, seek the training, skills, equipment, etc. that meets your needs and situation. Maintain and practice your skills to remain proficient. Once prepared, your in a much more comfortable position should you be forced into something dangerous.

I would agree with many that things should not be this way. We should be able to enjoy ourselves with worry or fear. Unfortunately the real world is not that way, no matter how bad we would like it to be.

Best of luck and be safe.

Jeff,

<p>

Would this image be another example from your "Leaf Shutter

Adventure?"

Giles,

<p>

The correct link for the Kenesis site is "kensisgear.com". Sorry for

the mistake.

<p>

Scott

Giles,

<p>

I have had good luck using a Lowepro "Orion" waist pack to carry a

small R kit or 3 lens M kit similar to yours. I like that I can

carry it while wearing a standard rucksack and still have access to

the camera. Like Jay, I place it inside the ruck when needed.

<p>

I also use the Lowepro Orion AW that has a detachable pack that

converts the large waist pack into a backpack. While it holds more I

find it no better than a backpack to work from.

<p>

If I know I am going to be working from a larger backpack I and do

not want to use a waist bag, I often place my gear inside a

Crumpler "Bunion" padded insert for a similar level of protection.

<p>

You might also look at the Kenisis backpack and bags at

www.kenisisbags.com. I have not used any of their stuff but it looks

pertty well thought out. They even have a system set up for a

rangefinder system. Greenspun did a review of their modular system

on the photo.net site. It might be worth a look.

<p>

If you open to the idea of a waist pack I would look at the Orion and

the Photorunner. Then again there is nothing wrong with stuffing a

Domke or similar soft bag into your backpack!

<p>

Best of luck!

Hello to All,

<p>

For the first time, I will be using my R8 with a studio flash system. Since I purchased my R8 used I do not have the instruction manual and would like to know what technique(s) you might recommend.

<p>

For example:

<p>

1. Can I use a standard sync cord in the X contact without worry of damage to the camera electronics?

<p>

2. If I can use a sync cord, what modes/settings should I operate the camera?

<p>

3. Will the R8 sync at either shutter curtain settings?

<p>

4. Any other questions I forgot to ask.

<p>

The studio equipment I will be using is an Elinchrome Studio Strobe set wihh approximately 2000-watt/sec power.

<p>

Many thanks!

Gil,

<p>

Sorry, I placed and incorrect email address is the previous post.

This is the correct email address.

Careful Allison,

<p>

There is a very fine line between an enthusiast and an addict.

<p>

By the way, nice choice of equipment.

<p>

Happy shooting!

Many thanks to you all for your tips and advise. All are great

ideas, and better yet some I had never considered.

<p>

Thanks again!

I agree that there is nothing that can replace a projected MF slide

or large format contact print. However this article, and other

readings, has me reaching for my M6 or R8 more often than I would

have in the past.

<p>

http://www.mountainlight.com/articles/op699.html

<p>

Also, I have a Mamiya 7II with several lenses. This is a fantastic

MF system. However I would not recommend as an all around system,

especially for people. None of the lenses focus close enough for a

head and shoulders portrait. Check on www.mamiya.com for more

specifics.

<p>

Good luck!

Any suggestions for a slide film to be used under a ghastly mix of fluorescent, halogen, and natural light.

<p>

Apparently we will not be allowed to use hot or strobe lighting to shoot the inside of a retail store. I am using a R8 with a variety of wide-angle lenses (19/24/35), a Mamiya M7 with a 43mm (approx. 21mm equiv.), and tripod for the job.

<p>

The intent is to capture the interior design and materials used to create the stores "unique shopping environment" (barf!)

<p>

I have used Provia 100 and 400 films in the past with good success but have no experience with these films under this type of lighting.

<p>

For those inquiring minds, this an exercise in photographic problem solving for a class.

Hello from sunny Arizona,

<p>

At recent Leica Day held at the Guild Camera Shop in Phoenix there was a fellow Leica photographer who was speaking to the Leica rep. During the conversation the gentleman mentioned forming an informal group of local Leica users.

<p>

My post is to ask if there was such a group already, or would there be interest in forming such.

<p>

I am sure we all are very busy and do not need another meeting to attend. Perhaps there is room to create a web-posting forum so those members could connect locally when they had specific Leica related issues.

<p>

Any interest? Any thoughts?

Good God! I can see concern of your loved ones! Sure, buy a

Noctilux today and you have both feet on a slippery slope indeed!

What could be next? Robbing banks? Shooting heroin? Running with

scissors?

<p>

Hey, tell your significant others to place this whole Leica thing in

the proper perspective. Maybe buying a world class piece of glass is

not so bad after all!

<p>

Emile, can you post some of those new pictures? That should do in

all the die-hard holdouts.

<p>

Cheers!

Is it a light colored surface that you can use to write the focal

length/speed of the lens the case contains? I doubt that is the true

intent, but it makes it easier to find the lens I am looking for.

<p>

Just a thought. Cheers!