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jzpics

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Posts posted by jzpics

  1. Steve, here's one shot with an F100, lumedyne on camera bracket, shot straight on, and one to camera right, bounced off ceiling. Both are set at 100ws, camera is set at about 1/8 or 1/15, 160ISO film. I use Radio Slave units, one is a Radio Slave II and the others are Radio Slave 4's. Most times, I use the second light to bounce off a ceiling if it is white or mirrored or something close. Or use the second light and feather it across a scene to light up the background. Most times too, I shoot at 1/60 or 1/30 so as not to get too much blurr. Blurr is good and it's bad, just not too much of it. Like everything else in life, everything in moderation.<div>008pTb-18748784.jpg.f862f9c53035c9bf3b37eda5ee1e014b.jpg</div>
  2. Patrick, when I say feather it across the couple, place your light on a stand at about a 45 degree angle from the couple, then point it as if you are trying to light up someone else about ten feet to their far side. If you look at my photo attached on the above thread. I am shooting them staight on with a lumedyne at camera left aiming about ten feet to the right of the bride and little girl. You can see the little girls shadow on the brides dress to give you an idea of the angle. (don't tell anyone about the shadow, no one ever notices). Regards, john
  3. Patrick, all three of your methods will work, just make sure your flash will sync at a 500th. I personally would use a slower film speed if you have a sunny day, say 100 asa or 160asa and shoot at f8 on the subjects with the background at around f11. It always seemed to work for me, giving just shallow enough dof to set the subjects apart from the background. I use a lumedyne and just feather it across the couple, no umbrella. Just food for thought. Good luck. jz
  4. Hello Kathryn,

     

    The laws may be different in Australia, but in the USA you do not need to be a registered business to enter into a contract. I'm sure if you write your own contract, in good faith, and have a customer sign it, in good faith, then it is legally binding in Australia. As for using the title of "photographer", again here in the USA, anyone with a point and shoot 35mm is now calling themselves a "wedding photographer". If you are getting referrals on you wedding work, then you must be as "qualified" as the next guy/gal, take the work, do the best that you can and start your own business. Obviously your work is that good to get referrals. Good luck....jz

  5. Hi All, here is one I'll always remeber. This was at a rather high end wedding. The groom and his buddies had a tradition in their fraternity to strip naked every time they heard the song, "YMCA". I'm assuming they did this at college parties and not in bars etc. So, one of them had the band play it during the reception about half way into the evening, and they all started to dance and strip. Of course they all stopped when they got down to their pants and just teased the crowd a bit like they were actually going to do it. Well, the groom decided, "what the heck". Actually stripped down to his birthday suit in front of children, his parents and a horrified crowd. His underwear was thread bare, yellowed, torn and something that should have been thrown out years earlier. He must have also been experiencing a terrible case of "shrinkage". Lots of comments of condolences to the bride over that aspect. Within twenty minutes, half the guests politely said good-bye and the rest of the evening was a bust. Go figure.
  6. Hi Colleen,

     

    I've had several clients want to do the same thing. Recently when they ask to purchase the negatives during our initial discussions, and before the shoot, I have offered to hand over the film at the end of the session. In your situation you will save processing charges, the cost of your two 5x7's, and the cost of the proof album. It may not amount to much, maybe $50 or so. If you charge them $150 to $200 or more depending on your market, you are only out the $5 for the roll of film, and maybe come out ahead for the day anyway. I would give them the name of a good lab so they don't go to a drug store for processing. Good luck...john

  7. Sounds like you want to do just the opposite of what most of us are trying for in a reception enviroment. Most shooters want to open up the background a bit. Set your Nikon on manual, matrix meter, use your npc, and shoot at 125/sec., or faster if your camera and flash will allow it, f5.6 or f8 with your flash on auto or TTL normal, the shutter will take care of leaving the background dark. Hope that helps. You could also shoot "A" at any aperature, and flash on TTL normal, Nikon on matrix meter. Shutter should be a 60th maybe picking up some of the background, but not much if the lights are low.

     

    Good luck, john

  8. Hello Oliver,

     

    Everything posted so far is true. I have this lens and it is very sharp. Maybe a little awkward if you are not used to a push/pull zoom, but that is easlity overcome. I am actually thinking of the 28-70s as a replacement. I will be giving up the macro ability and picking up a lot of weight, but I am wedding photographer and swithching from Medium Format to 35mm, so the weight will not be a factor. If you are intersted, mine is in mint condition with box and papers, garage kept as they say. I've only actually used my 35mm a few times for Christmas and birthday parties and a few test rolls when I first purchased the system. You can email me at jzpics@yahoo.com if interested.

  9. This question was posted about one year ago by another member, but

    was not answered by anyone actually using the lens. Has anyone had

    any personal experience with this lens, and if yes, how good or bad

    is it for wedding work? I am thinking of ditching my 50 and 80 for

    it even though I am giving up a couple of stops. Thanks for your

    replies....john

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