mark e

Here's a Provia 100F photo using an 81a<BR>

http://www.pbase.com/merlenmeyer/image/28981041<P>

and one without the filter (I had to do a color balance correction)<BR>

http://www.pbase.com/merlenmeyer/image/28980922<P>

A warm scene using Provia 100F without any filter<BR>

http://www.pbase.com/merlenmeyer/image/28981366<P>

Reala, Reala, Reala, Reala ....

 

But I shoot mostly slide film ;-)

Under the top cover, directly behind the winding mechanism on the backside of the camera, there is a little pin that catches a cam. The cam rotates when you advance the film. In a lot of cases, the cam slips past the pin. Using a small screwdriver, you can rotate the cam and snap it back in place. Forcing the wind lever when the film is already advanced is probably what caused the problem.

I got the 35-70 instead of the 28-70 for a couple of reasons: 1) cost 2) size and weight 3) size of filters (62mm vs 77mm)

 

My package includes the 24 2.8 and 35-70 2.8 which is a very nice combo. The cost of both lenses is still significantly cheaper than the 28-70 and both lenses are very sharp.

The question was about zooming, not focusing ...

The paperclip trick will only work if the rewind fork/shaft is out of the way. It would only be out of the way if there was no film in the camera.

Spot meter off the snow and increase exposure by 1-2 stops (I would do both if slide film is used)

One more point: manual Nikkors including the Series E lenses will not allow you to use Matrix metering on the N8008s

I have had the 35 2.0 AF for many years and view it as my "normal" lens. It is extremely sharp. Obviously the 1.4 version will perform better wide open, but how often would you use a wide lens at max aperture?

The "average" photograph should get a rating of 5 because that is the midpoint between 1 and 10. Comments should be required for any rating below 3 and above 7.