peter_lagus

I have a lightly used 3800 that is 12 years old. Recently nozzle clogging started to become a recurring issue. I purchased a 4 year old 3880 with fewer than 500 pages printed as a replacement. I use CS6 to process my photos. During printer setup I removed all the 3800 drivers using the control panel icon of Win 10. I downloaded and installed the 3880 driver from the Epson website. When I try to print a PS photo file, I get the attached message. It appears that somewhere there are remnants of the 3800 drivers, but I have no idea how to find a delete them. Any ideas would be great appreciated. Thanks for your input.

 

Pete

 

For the first set Bracketing appears to be set...

 

[ATTACH=full]1330614[/ATTACH]

 

OMG Mike. Thank you, thank you, thank you. When I look for the EXIF file I don't find this much information. I can see immediately from your output what my problem is. At the expense of revealing considerable ignorance (something that advancing age makes transparent) how did you recover all of this info? When I right click on an image I get some information but not the plethora that your post provides.

All:

 

Thanks for the responses. Couple of my boo-boos. The lens was set at 120 NOT 124mm-I really should learn to type<g>. The values in parenthesis are shutter speeds from the EXIF files not ISO values. The view finder shutter was closed and a cable release was used to trigger the shutter. I have uploaded the six photos as jpegs. The first 3 are A mode, the next 3 are M mode.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All:

 

Thanks for the useful feedback. Sorry I didn't correspond yesterday, but I drove from Hanksville, UT to San Diego county and was beat when I got home.

 

I ran a test as suggested by several of you. These photos were taken outside in bright sun at Goblin Valley.

 

Focused on a sandstone hoodoo in early afternoon. Bright sun, no clouds. Camera NOT on bracketing. Camera in Matrix Mode.

 

D800 with 24-120mm G ED zoom lens set to 124mm. This is the lens that came with the D800 kit. Ran 3 shots in A mode, f8, ISO400. Shot 1,2 in rapid succession and then third after 10 seconds.

 

Did exactly the same but set camera up in M mode. Set with f8, shows speed as 1/640, did not change focus or zoom setting. Results from EXIF file are as follows:

 

A Mode (800, 1250, 1000). M Mode (640, 500, 800).

 

FWIW I purchased this about 3 years ago as Nikon refurbished camera. It has had only modest use since work has kept me busier than I would like.

 

Comments?

I have a D800. Recently I have noticed that when I shoot two images of the same subject one after the other, the images are never identical so far as exposure goes. Is this normal or do I have a problem with my camera?

Since the Mountain Light Gallery closed in late 2017, is there any other source for Rowell prints?

<p>Bob:<br>

<br />I have used Color Folio in Northern California and been very happy with the results<br>

The owner, Bob Cornelis, has been involved in high quality color printing for many years.<br>

He is quite knowledgeable about all aspects of fine art printing.<br>

Pete</p>

 

<p>Gary:</p>

<p>Go to the largeformat info form. There are several extended discussions on this very subject. I had a similar issue with a 65mm Fujinon lens and an Ebony SV45Ti. The suggestions from the forum allowed me to figure out how to manipulate the front standard so that I could use a wide angle lens.</p>

<p>Pete</p>

<p>FWIW, in each of the last six years I have sent between 20 and 50 rolls of Velvia ISO 50 to FujiColor Processing (also known as Duane's) in Parsons KS without any problems. Mailers are available from B&H for a nominal price. Turnaround in usually a few days.</p>

<p>Kurt: <br>

I spent 7 days in Iceland last March for some aurora photography. Four of the days were sunny, but only one night was cloudless. That night the aurora were quite visible for about 2 hours and then just disappeared and did not return before I gave up at 2 AM. I was in Akureyri, a city on the north central coast. <br>

<br />The temperature was no worse than I have experienced in many winters here in the US. You can go on the Iceland Meteorological Service website and get cloud cover forecasts and aurora forecasts. If you do go to Iceland this site will be very useful.<br>

<br />Iceland is an enormously beautiful country and you will enjoy your trip and the many photo opportunities even in winter.</p>

<p>Pete</p>

<p>Sue:<br>

Unless you need the photographic instruction, I think you may be better served going on your own. Car rental can be a little pricey, but food and lodging are not necessarily outlandish so long as you avoid the upscale restaurant/bars. Dining is cheaper still if you don't need any alcoholic beverages.<br>

One place you might check out is the Edda chain of summer lodging. These are college dormitories that are rented out during the summer months. There are many scattered throughout Iceland. The rooms are clean and prices moderate. They often also provide a breakfast service.<br>

Iceland in the summer is so photogenic that it is hard to take a bad picture. <br>

As stated above there are many free (or low priced) guides available that provide details of what and where to go in Iceland. At any of these places you WILL find dramatic photo ops. <br>

Email me privately and I would be pleased to provide a list of useful guides for Iceland.</p>

<p>Curt:</p>

<p>A tripod is essential. The Upper Antelope Canyon is really dark. The lower one is not quite so dark. However hand holding will not work well unless you are using high ISO exposures. For the incredible detail in the canyons you probably want to use as slow an ISO as you can. YMMV<br>

I use a Nikon 24-120 zoom. This gives you a great deal of flexibility in terms of field of view without the need to open the camera to change a lens. At f8 or f11 most Nikon zoom lenses have more than enough sharpness. With the fine grain sand blowing in the canyons, you open your camera body at your peril.<br>

Enjoy your trip.<br>

Pete</p>

 

<p>All:<br>

It seems to be pretty well agreed on these pages that you shoot Bryce in the AM and Zion at sunset. My own experience at Bryce seems to confirm this. BUT, I don't really have a good feel for WHAT is good to shoot at sunset in Zion.<br>

Any suggestions, comments or observations would be appreciated.<br>

Pete</p>

<p>Durr;<br>

depends on the version of PS your are using. Up to CS3 there was a tab for "contact sheet" that allowed mutiple images on a single sheet. In CS4 (i don't have CS5 but i have heard it operates the same as CS4 in this regard) you must start out in Bridge. Check the archives here on P/N for more specific info. Search for "Contact Sheet in CS4".<br>

pete</p>

<p>for the last two days i haven't been able to access the above website. does anybody know if they are having technical problems? note this is not Q.T' s website.</p>

<p>i had a nikon 300m f2.8 AFI for a number of years to photgraph my wife's horses. i also had a nikon 1.4 teleconverter. neither ever gave me a bit of trouble even tho they were schlepped all over the western US. i sold them both a few years ago and i am now sorry i did. verrrrry sharp lens--i don't think you can go wrong with the AFI if you don't want to pay the extra for the AFS.<br>

FWIW the AFI lenses do NOT incorporate a motor, so i don't understand shun's coment.<br>

regards<br>

pete</p>

<p>Michael Gordon</p>

<p>Jack Dykinga</p>

<p>i have another semi-newbie question. most experienced digital practitioners recommend setting the white luminance of their monitors to between 100 and 120. i am having trouble finding out how to do this on the dell 2408WFP. when i get into the brightness-contrast menu it shows a range of 0 to 100 and defaults to 50. apparently these values do not correspond directly to luminance. so how does this value correspond to luminance and how do i adjust the monitor to an accepted value?<br>

thanks in advance for any suggestions and recommendations<br>

pete</p>

<p>Guys:<br>

thanks for your timely responses. i guess i was unclear in my description. i understand about the mismatch when you first open a new file. BUT after i saved the file as a psd, the NEXT time i opened the file i would get the SAME mismatch message. THAT doesn't make any sense and could be destructive to the psd file.<br>

in desperation i deleted all the files that were givng me this constant message about mismatch and re-scanned the same slides. now when i save as a psd and close the file, it will re-open without the mismatch--which is what should happen.<br>

my best guess is that i was having some strange issue with the operating system itself (VIsta 64!) since with all my re-scanned files the problem has not reappeared. FWIW i had ten or so scans (now all deleted and re-scanned) that would consistenly provide the mismatch message every time i opened the file. not any more. so i am at a loss as to understand the cause.<br>

thanks to all for your suggestions.<br>

pete lagus</p>

<p>i am using a coolscan 5000 with a 64 bit PC running CS4. i scan slides with the scanner set to wide gamut RGB. in CS4 my working space is ekta space 5. when i open a scan in CS4 i get the usual warning about embedded versus working space. after some photoshop manipulations, i will save the file in psd format. when i then re-open the same file i get the same warning about profile mismatch. why does this happen?<br>

it seems to me that once you save a file with an embedded profile it should keep that profile the next time the file is opened. if, for some reason, it doesn't retain the profile does that mean that every time the file is opened the pixels are modified?<br>

how exactly then would the embedded profile be applied in a given file if CS4 tries to chnage the profile each time the file is opened.<br>

a friend who uses a Mac with CS4 does not experience this behavior.<br>

am i slowly destroying the integrity of my scans each time i open them and choose the working profile?<br>

pete lagus</p>

<p>Mike:<br>

thanks for the tip. i did find your post on using the 4000 scanner. if there isn't another workaround i will try it. FYI there is an excellent post "nikon5000ED scanner using nikon scan 4.0.3 works beautifully on vista 64 bit" by andre noble on 10/26/08 that allows one to use the coolscan 5000 on 64 bit vista.<br>

Les:<br>

sorry to be so dense but "right click" on what profile where?<br>

thanks for your help<br>

pete lagus</p>

<p>I have a PC running 64 bit Vista. I now use a Coolscan 5000 with adobe RGB as a color space (called NKAdobe). I am attempting to install ekta space so that i can use some of ellis vener's tricks for incorporating the space in my work in CS4. Unfortunately the section in the Joseph Holmes website on installing profiles does not include Vista. also one of the locations he describes for Windows 2000 or XP does not exist in Vista (the second location that starts ProgramFiles/etc, etc.)<br>

sooo, has anyone successfully added ekta space to 64 bit Vista. if so, could you please explain how it was accomplished. thanks for any help.<br>

pete lagus</p>

<p>Chas:<br>

thanks for the response. i apologize for the omission of some relevant details. i didn't include "the rest of the story". i have a PC running 64 bit Vista. The samsung natural color expert will not load. apparently samsung does not support Vista 64 bit for the syncmaster (or any vista for that matter). hence i can't use their software directly and i am not enough of a computer guru to figure out how to use the spyder data directly in the setup files.<br>

so i am now casting about the internet for a work-around.<br>

pete</p>

<p>all:<br>

i am attempting to use a spyder elite3 to calibrate a syncmaster XL20. i must admit that i am unable to understand the manual instructions for using an external calibrator (the spyder) with external software (datacolor-spyder). the manual does not even describe how one would set the various controls to achieve a calibration. it barely explains what each control actually does.<br>

soooo, if anyone can point me to <em><strong>specific</strong></em> information for this monitor and calibrator configuration i would be very appreciative. i must admit the more i read the samsung manual the more confused i become.<br>

pete</p>