donald_maldonado

Ellis you crack me up. Don

why can't they do the same with Leica M?

Present age..51 short years. Paying the bills by practicing medicine here in So. California. Have been into photography for 35+ years, enjoy scuba diving, travel, and woodworking. Love playing the guitar, and would rather have been a rock-sta. Would have made it, if only I had the talent. Current gear includes Leica M6 and various lenses. Recently have acquired a Canon 1D and am enjoying the digital challenge. Current drive BMW M3.

I agree, wonderful...but heavy!

This is such garbage! ALL the images viewed on this monitor are DIGITAL an have been manipulated in some way. ALL images scanned and stored on a HD are DIGITAL. I for one am getting tired of this constant, useless debate. DON

Steve, thanks for sending out your softies. The concave softie felt odd in use. The convex softie was a bit too small for my taste. Both softies had trouble screwing them into my shutter releases and I didn't wish to force.

 

I have Tom's softie as well. Just my opinion, but it feels "smoother" in use perhaps because of the larger surface area.

 

Thanks for your trust. Don

Get the 0.72 since over 90% of you images will be created with the 35 mm lens.

Gitzo CF tripod with Arca swiss ballhead and RRS plate. This combo will be the last setup you will buy. I have a closet of other combos, all collecting dust.

WTB/trade M6/lens for Rolex GMT II

Well, many thanks for the kind remarks. All imges were taken with leica M6

TTL lenses VC 15mm (#1, 11, 34) Noctilux (5, 35,46, 47,50) A professional

photographer will full nikon F5 gear was also taking the picture of #50Bellagio

church using flash. Mine was handheld velvia @40 1/15 sec F1.0)

B&W images were mostly Ilford HP5+ and Pan F. Number 11 is actually a

desaturated slide of the vatican staircase. The rst of the images were made

with my 35 & 50 mm Summicron, except for #53 which was 90mm APO.

B&W developer was a two-bath Diafine type (home mixed from stock

chemicals) which allowed HP5+@800 and Pan F@80.

I returned from Italy a short while ago. It was my first trip to

Europe and a wonderful experience. For those interested, the link

below represents just some of the memories taken from such a

beautiful country.

 

http://www.fototime.com/inv/E3F022B69402DBA

 

Don

I have used a Diafine type developer for about a year now. Thanks to Scott for sending me his formula, I now longer have to search for places which cary the stuff.

 

The URL shows images all developed with Scott's Diafine Type developer. Films used Ilford Pan F @80 / HP5+ @ 800 / Neopan 1600 @ 2400. All developed for 3 min bath A and 3 min bath B. Temp+ whatever.

 

http://www.fototime.com/inv/2CA96FC2C53EFB7

Went to Italy 3 months ago with HP5+, Velvia, Provia 400, Neopan 1600. Abut 80 rolls were hand inspected here in Los Angeles, Ca. Italians were no so easy to convince. Total of 4 x-ray passes with problems.

Jonas,

I was faced with the same problem a little over a year ago. A made a 6 foot cabinet of 3/4 maple ply with a door which contains a glass front. Dimmer lights were added and a bathroom exaust fan was added in the base pullin air throught the filtered vent holes in the top and exaussed out the back. Hooks were added for 8 rolls of film. Drying time 30 min..works great. Oh yea, when the cabined is not in use, glass shelves (3) are added and display various objects. You need not make something so elaborate, unless you enjoy woodworking, as something simple would work just as well. If you would like to see a pic, let me know (email) and I'll send you one.

I have had both the 35 mm and the 120 mm Noblex cameras several years ago. Easy to use. The 120 version blows the 35 mm version away. The negs are wonderful especially mounted in the special TSS photo holders. Timed exposures are a pain since due to the mechanics. If set to 1/250 sec, the lens must make 125 rotations to = 1 second! We're talking tripod here. However, if people are walking about and the lens is rotating at 1/250 sec for a timed exposure, they (people) seem to disappear or ghost on the image,,this could be useful. Anyway, enjoy the Noblex..great camera.

I have both the Noct and cron...Don't sell the cron!

This has been one of the most interesting threads in quite some time. It's true, those of us with the Nocti use other lenses as well, and these issues have been covered and addressed many times without much change. This has prompted me to make the following decision: This weekend, I'm going to Sequoia National Forest again; I've been there many, many times so there really isn't anything new to see, but this time I will be taking ONLY the 50mm Noctilux and Pan F, HP5+ films. We'll just see. Don

You might try Lutz's "sling" works great allowing control of the body with just the middle and index fingers. The Thumb is used to activate film advance lever.

Dave, intresting..

I've never tried T-Max developer but am willing. HP5+ is my standard and I too rate it at 800. Do you extend the developing time as if you were pushing or develop as if exposed at ISO 400? Rotary or stationary tank?

Thanks, Don

I've had mine for about 6 months now. No problems. Didn't like the Nikon software and now use Silverfast Ai with T8 calibration for slides. Silverfast is a plugin for Photoshop which uses hugh ram resources when PS and Ai run together. Silverfast (SF) now has an application for OSX which allows scanner usage without first starting PS. Scans are good, much better than my Minolta. Min tweaking with SF Ai which also has "Nega FIX" and seems to work well with B&W films. You can download and try out their demo @ www.silverfast.com

I don't think you can go wrong with the Nikon, but it is one of the most expensive.Purchased mine from B&H photo.

It seems we all long for that which we don't have. I have the Nocti and use it on occasion. Great lens but heavy. A 35/1.4 would be nice but the compactness of my 35/2 and 50/2 insure their usage much more of the time. Depending on the situation, 1.0 or even 1.4 does not see much use...the DOF is just too short. The 35 and 50 2.0 focus ring is quick, the 50 Nocti is long. The 35/50 will work just fine on 0.58 and 0.72 bodies, but my 50/1.0 works better on the 0.85

 

Would I give up my 50/1.0..NO! It does have it merits but I feel that the 35mm is the "standard" Leica lens for the M6 although the 50mm/2.0 is the best-bang-for-the-buck. Having said that, if I had to do it again, I would get the 35/1.4 and the 50/2.0 ........would be cheaper than the Nocti and the 35/2.0

I buy film from B&H usually odering about $300.00 at a time. I've never had a problem. Shipping is fast. In addition I have used Fuji mailers for E6 processing sending 50 rolls in one large package one month ago. Film was sent from Californa to Arizona-2 day. Film was returned from Fuji via FedEx in one large package. No problems encountered..this time. I had one roll of film, about 2 years ago,lost, then found.

It seems, that because of their simplicity of use, they would be more

highly used, especially when using roll film where images are of

varying contrasts and subjects. Yet, the 2-bath developer is often

disregarded on this and other B&W forums.

I have a Minolta Scan Speed that I will be listing on Ebay in the near future. If interested make an offer. Email me directly

Nice images Marc, love the dress!Copies? What film do you use for your B&W and developer. Thanks, Don