jon_wilson

Would this Kodak fixer in sealed bottle be any good? I bought about about 4 years ago<div></div>

The dark spots are stains on the glass. Not sure how to clean them off...they were there when it got the glass measure.

Related, but this would be a good thread to ask questions regarding D76H chemicals mixed on 6/6/2012, but mixed with

distilled water until today (4 yrs) later. The chemicals looked slightly aged, but the mixed chemical developer a faint tan

color. Took picture, but not certain how to post it..

The mixed chemicals had been in sealed baggy, but not air tight which I believe created the slight darkening of the

chemical(s).

Does anyone know the expected shelf life of D76H?

I didn't have time to develop any film, but hope to this week.

Thank you for your expertise and time.

Jon<div></div>

It will fit a Bronica S, S2, and S2A. It will not fit the older Bronica body or newer EC or EC-TTL bodies.

<p>It will depend on the lens. Check to see what the angle of coverage is for your lens. For example, a 210mm Kowa f9 lens will cover 8x10 film</p>

<p>I have only used the bronica S2 and etrs. Of these, I would upgrade to a S2A. The only difference between the S2A and the S2 is that the latter one has steel gears while the S2 has brass ones which wear out faster. If you want a meter for the S2A, you have use a Keiv TTL meter and modify it with the base of a view finder which fits the S2A.<br>

As to the etrs. IMO they are not as nice as the ETRSi.<br>

Sorry this response may not be very helpful, but I personally think your bronicas are great systems, but would recommend the higher grade models.<br>

I am sure someone with experience can address the pros and cons of the mamiya and hasselblad MF.<br>

Jon</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I too am learning the process, but one thing I have learned is that in using a color head, you need to start both magenta and yellow at "0" and make your test strip. If the print is not black enough, then more time or more magenta is needed. I have found that if you are using a normal exposed normal processed negative (depending on the fog base) you would start your Magenta somewhere between 25 to 50 magenta. <br>

I believe there is a chart on the Ilford website for using a color enlarger with Ilford Mulitgrade IV paper. Depending on the color head, it provides you with recommended Y & M settings based on grades 0 through 5.<br>

Hope this helps. It has helped me get a better grasp for printing.....now if I can only find for time to do it.<br>

<br />Jon</p>

<p>I have this lens and it has slip on caps. I think the front cell will take a 46mm clip on cap, but could not locate one to confirm. I would recommend getting a couple of plastic caps from bottles that will fit, not touch the glass and use rubber bands to hold them to the lens. Just a thought. Jon</p>

<p>In researching this issue, I have been advised by Jimmy Koh of Koh's Camera that there were 2 models of TTL light meters made by Bronica which are installed as the viewfinder for the EC body. Model #1 had a 3 volt battery system and Model #2 had a 6 volt battery system which was the same size as the 6 volt battery used in the EC Body. There are a couple of other minor differences, but all and all both are excellent meters only to later be replaced by Bronica's EC-TL camera.</p>

<p>I acquired a Bronica EC light meter that has a battery cavity that will take either 2 3 volt batteries, or 4 1.5 volt batteries, or one 6 volt lithium battery. It has a serial number 127xx. I have also come across another Bronica EC light meter with a serial number of 129xx that also uses a 6 volt battery. <br>

The Bronica EC light meter instructions I have seen describe the EC light meter using a 3 volt battery or 2 1.5 volt batteries and those battery compartments only accept batteries totaling 3 volts. I have been advised that that battery compartment also has what appears to be a "grey plastic" insert which limits the compartment to a total of 3 volts of battery. That EC light meter had a serial number of 114xx. <br>

Has anyone else seen this anomaly? Is it just another example of the Bronica company making another change in their system years ago and not telling anyone? I definitely do not want to "fry" my electrical system in either my EC body or the EC light meter. Is there anyway to confirm mine EC light meter was in fact made to use 6 volts of battery in it? <br>

Thanks. Jon</p>

<p>If it is a bulb and hose you need, I recommend finding a Harbor Freight and they a bulb you can purchase for a couple of $s and purchase a windshield wiper hose for a few bucks at the local auto supply store. The longer the hose, the less the vibration to the lens.<br>

Happy hunting.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Send me an email and I can scan and email to you the manual for the Bronica 135 back I have which was purchased years ago for my ETRS/ETRSi. I don't recall at present which designation is on my 135 back. <br>

Jon</p>

 

<p>Go the JOBO site to get a good start on what you will need. http://www.jobo.com/jobo_service_analog/us_analog/instructions/instructions_manual_cpe-2_plus_05.htm<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Any modern 125mm to 150mm lens which is in a copal 0 or similar shutter. I personally like the 150mm g-claron in a copal 0 shutter. Although it is an f9 aperture, it works fine on my gg. Here is a link to a shot I took with this lens<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/3445998<br>

Jon</p>

 

<p>It is a large format lens which needs a lens board which is around 6x6. I believe it will cover up through an 8z10. The value of them is what one pays, but looking at past ebay sales you are looking at around $700 +/- . It would have a greater value if the studio shutter works, the lens are clean, and it has its flange. However, don't throw it out if some of those items are not pristine or don't work. Studio shutters can be fixed. I have one which has a side cylinder which is a "pistol" that is moved with a hose and bulb attached, (similar to that one may find on a older blood pressure testing device). <br>

Jon</p>

 

<p>I have started down that path with an RB Auto Graflex and ortho from Freestyle. I have not tried my mag holder...yet.</p>

<p>Assuming the copal has a shutter, then you can insert any other cells that will fit that size of a copal shutter. These shutters were used IIRC oscillating scopes or similar units. I have seen these shutters in copal 0 and 1 sizes. For example, 150mm g-claron cells are a direct fit in the copal 0 shutter.</p>

 

<p>Does anyone on the forum know the answer to this old thread? I have just acquired this TTL meter and am looking for the silver oxide batteries that work in it. Thanks. Jon</p>

<p>Does anyone know where one can purchase the silver oxide S-76 batteries that fit this meter? I too just purchased on and am trying to get them for my Bronica EC. Thanks. Jon</p>

<p>You can also insert a "top hat" or other insert between the flange of the lens and the lensboard so that it is in front of the slides which hold the lensboard to the front standard. I recently did just that so that I could extend the maximum focal length of my Pacemaker.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Has anyone used the Olympus 38mm macro and the bellows to take digital images with a E-510 body?</p>

<p>It sounds like a blast! I wish I could attend. Best wishes and enjoy! Jon</p>

<p>53mm opening should work depending upon the your flange. Mine has a small ridge and I measured the opening based on the outside edge of the ridge. Great lens...even better images due to the blades of the compur shutter. Do a google for Chris Perez. He is a fantastic photographer. You should find some posts concerning the use of this lens.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Research on Seth's site the Wollensak catalogs and you might find what you are looking for.<br>

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/info.html<br>

Jon</p>

<p>That was my first LF camera. Mine had a longer bellows extension and could handle up to 360mm lens or so. Just make certain the bellows are light tight, but you can usually tape the minor leaks. <br>

Jon</p>