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charles_mason

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Posts posted by charles_mason

    Metering w 75mm shift

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    "Also, since the light is striking the film obliquely, it can't illuminate it to the same degree compared to when the lens is unshifted and the film is perpendicular to the optical axis. A slight loss of light is seen when shifting. So, metering unshifted is necessary but also an exposure compensation as Rod had said above."

     

    I wrote a longer reply but it seems to be lost. But this statement is incorrect. A shift lens does not change exposure as you shift it. The lenses are designed to cover a larger image area. Only if you got to the edge of the image circle, which shouldn't happen, would you experience vignetting, or darkened corners. The meter and fresnel-type viewing screens need straight on light, so they are or can be effected by shifting. But f/5.6 is f/5.6, no matter where the lens is.

     

    And as a point of note, with a shift lens the film remains perpendicular to the film, only in a tilt lens would this change. The 75mm Pentax is shift only, so that isn't a factor here...

    Metering w 75mm shift

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Wow what a plethora of mis-information here. Looks like digitial (shoot and chimp) has invaded the basics of understanding light, desire, and exposure on all levels now. Sad. So Jeff you have several problems you are trying to address.

     

    First the letter above clearly (only clear letter here), addresses the problem of using AE with a shift lens. In a word--DON'T. In another word-CAN'T. So step up to the plate and learn how a meter works and how to control your photo manuall.

     

    Second, shift lenses go off-axis when shifted, thus skewing the metering pattern (and even the fresnel angles if using a Beattie-type screen-thus the darker image in the viewfinder too) so you have to meter with a hand-held incident meter or in camera before shifting.

     

    Incident meters are great, but may not "solve all your problems." If, you are in light that is different than your subjects, which often happens in the landscape, then the incident meter is easy to misuse. Honestly I'd suggest you bone up on the Sunny 16 rule. If you intend to bracket, a little simple logic in the landscape should work well 99% of the time. And it is more accurate, correctly applied, and any meter that can be mis-used. But if you do use the in camera meter, you need to know what it is you are metering, and what it is you want in the neg/print. Ansel's famous "previsualization" word comes to mind. The landscape you intend, with so much sky, may call for exposing for the sky and letting the ground go dark and broody. If the ground is in shadow and you have a bright sky, this is the kind of choice you have to make. Or you may expose for a foreground, wanting good detail there, and sacrifice the dramatic sky. Either can work visually in an image and print, so it is your own intent you need to grapple with, and learn to make the negative that will fulfill this intent.

     

    Judging from your question, my guess is you have a high powered camera but not a lot of background in basic photo skills. I'd suggest a good basic photo text (Henry Horenstein's current version is very good, and not so expensive), and some time spent reading, experimenting, and really looking at negs and prints to see what happens when. Then you'll be doing your best to keep some of these skills alive, in the age of chimping, histograms and just shooting to see if it works on the screen.

     

    Best of luck.

    PM90 metered prism

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    $165! I'd buy it for parts for that! You have to push the battery cover a little forward or backward to a click, I believe, before it swings open. Probably just user error. If not, Black Duct Tape is in order, and the thing is still a steal at that price!

    full frame M8, R, Lee , "Truculenta incognito"

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    If Canon can make a full frame 5D, with all its advanced features, and it can be sold for $2,100 new, then Leica should strive to do the same. A 10MP 1.3x sensor for $5,500 can't compete in the long run. I have and love my M8, and I'd love to see Leica survive. But they can only do so if they are more price competitive. Even it if means farming out some of the manufacturing. If they simply can't get the prices down, then they will go the way of the dinosaur, sadly, all too soon.

    67II

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    If this is a serious question then you must not realize how different lenses, though perhaps of the same focal length, are designed to cover different formats. A 200mm on a Canon gives a smaller image circle at the film than a 200mm on the 6x7, which is again gives a smaller image circle than a 210mm on a 4x5. Thus, a Canon EF lens on a 6x7 would give a little circular image, for most lenses, just slightly bigger than the diagonal of the 24mm by 36mm frame. And this doesn't even begin to bring into account different mounts and linkages to the lenses, or differences in their physical sizes...

    Nikon Coolscan 9000 glass holder

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Steve,

     

    The non-glass holder does not hold your film flat, ever. You need some glass holder, either after market or Nikon's. Advantage of the rotating one is it comes with masks and preset scan windows for 2-1/4 formats, xpan, etc. I don't think plain glass holder has this convenience. Also, I haven't tried it, but wet mounting would provide the absolute best scans, and I know that http://www.scanscience.com/ offers this for the 8000/9000 scanners. You might want to go that route from the get go. But the "stretchy" holder is not adequate.

    Small battery pack for EOS 1v

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    I just bought a used film (!) body, the EOS 1v HS. I'd like to replace the big

    PB-E2 Power Booster with the small grip that holds CR2s. I talked to Canon's

    EOS help line today, and was given a erroneous part number. Guess film really

    is dead. Anyway, I wondered if anyone knows the part number for that smaller,

    non Power Booster grip (it is the one supplied with the non HS version of the

    EOS 1v). And second does anyone have one they'd consider selling or know of any

    dealers who might still have such a critter?

     

    Many thanks,

    Charles Mason

    Food photography

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    One more thing, send it in to Canon and have the tilt and shift placed on the same axis. I have no idea why they send it out with them 90degrees apart, but that arrangement is perfectly useless. They'll charge you, but it is worth it...
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