charles_mason

I am pretty sure the PME90 has an easily adjustable diopter in the eyepiece. No disassembly needed, and no accessory diopter...

<p>I have a friend who has some Leica gear to sell. I had been successful here in the past doing just that. I look now at the classifieds, and only see a few items in Leica, and in the other categories. I don't see a "Contact" button to ask questions in general on Photo.net. Anyone know why only a few items are shown? Is this still a good, and free, place to list gear for sale?<br /> Thanks,<br /> Charles</p>

<p>Great Idea!</p>

<p>Epson V850<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1083201-REG/epson_b11b224201_perfection_v850_pro_scanner.html<br>

...or a used V750 will do the trick. I make them all the time...</p>

<p>The best are Toyo. Silky darkslide action... :-)</p>

<p>My guess is multi-frame in-camera panoramas...</p>

<p>You might want to download an instruction book...</p>

<p>Thanks, the stained glass idea is great. And I think we actually have such a shop in Fairbanks. I can check out Steve Hopf, but I know the Toyo GG is excellent. </p>

<p>I think I am very much in their intended market. If they can put the wifi and certainly GPS in a point and shoot for $500, why not in this camera. It is much like the iPhone, why not include all those things, the electronics are pretty much the same. And for landscape locations, GPS would be terrific. The add on device is bulky and gets in the way. Just my opinion. But thanks for your thoughts.</p>

<p>I decided to order the Toyo ground glass for my 8x10 Deardorff, as I was having a hard time seeing the Beattie screen anymore due to aging eyes and its hot spot. But the Toyo is about a millimeter or two wider than my Deardorff's cutout. On the long side (so i'd have to "trim" the long side). I could either route the Deardorff, but I am reluctant to do that to this wonderful camera, or cut a tiny edge off both long sides of the ground glass.<br>

<br />My question, for any of you with experience, should I take the glass to a glass shop here in Fairbanks, Alaska, and hope they can take such a tiny edge off without destroying or marking the whole glass. Is this a simple thing, really, for people who cut glass, to remove even a tiny strip like that? Or should I look for a second Deardorff user back and route it to fit this one.<br>

Thanks!<br>

Charles</p>

<p>So I imagine I, along with a lot of rest of you, got the email announcement for the 5Ds and 5DsR this morning. Am I the only one who hoped wifi and GPS would finally be built into this camera. I'd trade the megapixels for those, particularly the GPS. Canon has this in some of their point and shoots, so why not in their $3,700 camera. Am I missing something here?</p>

<p>I do believe that is just the original Wista 45, and they labeled it a Field 45. It had those chrome pieces, rather than brass, and was very very rickety to use. The braces were not very substantial. Fred Picker had Wista redesign the camera with much beefier brass metal parts, and it was the Zone VI model for awhile, but Wista then sold a lot of cameras with that hardware, for years. Mostly that's what you see when you see a Wista for sale, thus the odd look of the chrome original...</p>

<p>Looking at the Leica repair stuff on their website it looks like only Germany is repairing the M9. Is this true, or does Leica NJ also offer repair on the digital cameras? Thanks!</p>

<p>Does anyone know where I might find a replacement for the original metal 67 eyepiece. It is the same on either the 67 and the 67ii. Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I own a Saber. It does indeed shoot 4x5 negatives. There is a tiny downscaling from normal 4x5 cameras, as the bellow slighly trims the images. So you have an image with the edge about 1/16" from each edge of the rail that hold the film in the holder, with clear film on the outside. Thus you don't get an image that looks like the holder edges and notch code exposed. But it is almost 4x5, or is for all practical purposes. </p>

<p>I'd be interested in one for the Hassy 2000F. Let me know if you go into production. cwmason@alaska.edu<br>

thanks</p>

<p>Yeah I thought of that. Love "improvements," don't you?</p>

<p>Hi, My good old GF-1 let you cycle the display button to turn off the LCD. GX-1, while updated in most ways, seems not to allow this. Anyone know any secrets, other than putting on the EVF, to have the screen off while using an optical finder?<br>

<br />Or, anyone got any secret phone numbers to Panasonic (who has the absolutely worst phone tree I've ever encountered), to talk to someone who actually knows the camera and isn't looking up an answer on a computer for the first time?<br>

<br />Thanks,<br>

Charles</p>

<p>moderator please delete. i figured it out after a lot of trial and error. the cable release screw receiver was stuck out of the 110 lens even though no cable was in it...!</p>

<p>little more info, it is a lens thing. the 110 is the culprit, as this does not happen with my 180 or 65mm. so any thoughts? anyone? all the lenses settings are the same. prob better to just buy a new 110 than even trying to fix this one. but just in case anyone has a simple fix. i did try and clean the contacts. it is the long delay, followed by the long tone, then the reset, that has me stumped! thanks again!</p>

 

<p>hi all,<br>

i am confounded by a problem i am having with my camera/prism. i tried a friend's motor base, which is when this seem to have started. i thought his base was bad, but now that i am trying to use the camera here is what happens. i have the camera shutter dial on AEF and the prism on AEL, which I believe is right for AE exposure. when i trip the shutter, it goes of. but then there is a silent delay of 30-40 seconds, followed by a several seconds long low tone, then a click, and ONLY then can i wind push the lever and wind the film. i have changed the battery. it was working fine before i tried that winder. i can't find a new version of the manual for the AIii prism, just the original. any thoughts?<br>

help appreciated.<br>

best,<br>

charles</p>

 

<p>Hey does anyone know if the batteries are being drained if you don't turn the 67ii to Lock instead of On, or do I have a problem somewhere (with my camera that is...). Just lost two new batteries in 1 month without usage but camera was in the On position. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thank you Franklin. I'll check all that out...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a new used Winder II for my RZ67 ProII body. I have read the manual. I have put in fresh batteries. The battery light glows fine. But the winder doesn't immediately wind. Instead there are 10-15 seconds of silence, then a high pitched tone for 5 seconds or so, then it winds. Can't figure it out. Any suggestions out there?<br>

Many thanks!</p>

 

You can use the close up lens (the one w/ the viewfinder "wing") made for the Mam 6 perfectly on the Mam 7's 80mm

lens.