hans andersson

Thanks for the answers.

I will check with Fuji.

Hans A

Hi, and thanks for a very learning discussion. Now I understand and I'm realy happy to hasve the very clear and good exponations you have given me.

Thanks.

Hans A

Hi, I'm thinking little over the maximum needed printed and hereby

scanned resolution.

Some printers have 2400 dpi and some have 1200 dpi. If making maximum

of those, I have to feed them with an image with the very same dpi.

This make that if I want to print a A3 (420 X 297 mm or 11,7 x 16,5

inc) this will require that I have 28kppi when scanning a 24 x 36

neg. Some one say that it is enough to have 300 dpi on a papercopy,

due to the eye can not see better. But will not the coulor and

nyances be better if you at least are coming up much nerer to what

the printer can do. If not why pay for a printer that can do much

better that you acn see?

This also make that we need a sw that will handle extreamly large

image files. Photoshop start to be slow alrady when the images are up

to 200MB.

So what do you think? Due to my unsureness, I'm scanning almoust al

my negatives in max resulotion, and that make 24X36 up to appr 35 -

60 MB and 645 up to appr 300 - 600 MB.

Another thing. The colour deep. Photoshop handle 8 bits, my scanners

handle 16 bits. How much will I loos to just use 8 bits? Is it any

good SW that can handle 12 or 16 bits per color?

It was a lot of questions but please if any of you can help me ti

clear this out.

Regards Hans A

Hi.I have had scanner banding when I had bought my Scan Elite II and used the ICE. This was due to: 1 The Minolta sw had to be replaced to a newer version, and when I used VueScan Ed send me a newer version of hes SW. But still can I see it in very underexposed negatives. Here had I to disconectr the ICE. But the Dual III have no ICE, but only a SW dust remower, so it can not be the same problem. I had also problem with equal lines but not exact stright border of them , when i had a not good development, the film had to be once in the blech fix and the later baths, to minimize the problem.

My advise is: Check on the Minolta web if there are a newer wersion of the sw, and if you are using VueScan or Silverfast check if there are a newer version of the sw. I belive the VueScan have some corecctions on the latest releases that fix some Dual III problems. If that not help, check if the lines are stright or if it can be in the development.

Regards Hans A

Hi Josh

I do only know the situations we have in Sweden, but here will the frost be on the topside of the equipment. It will fall down and hereby just cover surfaces that is accesible from abowe. This make that by using a kind of topcower can help. Ofcause this will not help if you have to direct the camera stright up. If I had to have it stright up I had to first keep the lens so warm that it not frees and that it was warmer than the sorounding and hereby the condence want be on the lens. This work if it is not underfreesen damp. If it is that you also need a kind of fan to keep it away from the frontlens.

The heating can be either s small infraheating equipment, but they are normally quite big, or that you arrange some resistors with reflectors on a rebuild lenshud, and feed it with 12V from a auto battery or equal. It will be enough if it give you abowe 25 - 30 W.

If this help you, I'm happy.

Regards Hans A

Thanks for your answers.

I belive that I start with the inexpesive solution first during the time I'm looking for a used Macro to a little lower prize. So I will put a close up lens on the 150 to start with.

Regards Hans A

Hi.

I have bought a Pentax645II. I love it, but now it is time for start

using it for macro pictures of flower and other things in the

nature. As the 120mm Macro leans is quite expensive, my question to

you is: Shall I spend 1300$ or more for a macro or shall I by a

extension tube for 300$. I have now the 75 and 150 f 2,8.

Regards Hans A

Hi.

I'm using Fuji 200 to 1600 mainly negative. I develope in Tental C-41

in a Jobo CPE2 with lift. I have read of presoking with weat. Will

the weat have any bad impact on the film and hereby the result? Or

will it only guarentee that I will get a more safe and stabile result

from the development. I ask due to I will increase the saftie of my

development.

Best regards Hans A

Hi. I have read a lot in those questions and answers. Here when you

are speaking of film, and here I'm most intrested in Fuji, you often

tell how good or bad they are with push1 or push2 processing with

that or that ISO. I use Tental c-41. How do I do push1 and appr. how

much can I lift the ISO? How do I push2 and appr. how much can I

lift the iso with that?

Regards´Hans A

Hi , I'v bought a Pentax 645II and with it a 220 magazine. When I

yesterday did develope the film. I wonded in the darkroom.Shall I cut

or rip of the paper? The reson I wonder is that I did rip, and it

seams that that film was less good developed as the 120 fil that I

did develope in the very same time. It seams that the bleack fix had

not worked as good as for the 120. It can also be that the 220 will

come longer in to the spirale that the 120. I use a Jobo CPE2

devwlopment maskine with lift. I would be gratefull for an answer fro

you with experiances of this.

Best regards Hans A

It is a negative. I have now continuied my tryes, and it looks as i have less problem by using the Dimage Scan sw. But Im not absolutly sure if it will be free of the lines.

Hans A

Hi I have bought a new "Better Scanner" I had a Minolta DualII and

due to to much workj with cleaning from dust and scratses, I bought a

Minolta Scal Elite II that have the IR equipment. But to my supprise

did I got lines on the scanning, and if I used an USB hub they was

worce, and when i talk with Minolta in Sweden they tould me that I

could just conect the scanner dorect to USB or Firewire that is

mounted direct on the motherboard, so i was no use to by a firewire

card. Now have I bought a strong computor. A Philips 3,05 Ghz

withfour UYSB on the motherboartd, but it seams that all give the

lines. What to do, is is only to bye an other scanner of anouter

brand, or do any of you have any sudgestion? The PC have 750 MB

primary memory, 12o GB HD and a strong grafical card, so I can not

see that it will be the limitations of the PC.

Regards Hans Andersson<div></div>

Hi I,m an owner of a Vivitar 19-35 f3,5 FA lens. I use it to my

Pentax MZ-30. But some time I got vinjetting in corners, and it seams

to be in different corner, and I have difficultness to see it in the

viewer. I do not have a filter, but use the orginal hud.

Thanckfull for ansvers. Hans A<div>[ATTACH=full]875829[/ATTACH]</div>

Thanks, I will go for a Sigma.

Hans A

Hi, just a silly question, You are speaking of NI- filter and ND. what is that? Is it some to spen on?

Regards Hans A

Thanks, for very good advises. I will look for 100 mm.

Regards Hans A<div></div>

I will by a macro lins for my Pentax-MZ-30. I like to photo flowers,

musroms. butterflyes etc. Today I just use close up linses.

Shall I chose 50 or 100mm? Is t good to chose Zoom or fix?

Regards Hans Andersson