cleeo_wright

March 18, 2013

I can't speak for the 5D3 but I just purchased a 6D last week. I'm thrilled with the image quality. If you want to find fault I suppose that it is possible. Overall I will say that it appears to be a great tool.<div>

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March 14, 2013

Thanks everyone! FYI. I ordered my 70-200 f/4 IS this morning. I appreciate all of the thoughtful feedback.

March 12, 2013

All,

I would like to acquire one of the lenses above. My research shows mixed results. DxO rates the f/2.8 lens higher than the f/4 and <a href="http://www.photozone.de">http://www.photozone.de</a> just the oposite. What would you choose?

Here are some parameters.

1. I don't have the money for the 2.8 Mk II so please don't suggest it.

2. Most of my photography is outdoor but I am beginning to work indoors and with people more. Still at this point I am working mostly out of doors.

3. I do not do much wildlife work so that isn't a priority. The lens would be used primarily to isolate landscape and nature subjects.

4. I'm in decent shape for my age so I could probably carry the weight but I would like to hear your experiences with the heavy f/2.8 vs. the lighter f/4.

5. Since the Mk I is not produced any more I would be buying it off of EBay or KEH. I could get a new f/2.8 non-IS for about the same price

Thanks everyone. If you have any other questions I would be happy to answer them

February 9, 2013

No worries William. Lots of good information.

February 8, 2013

Thanks everyone...

As stated in the OP the question was really about the impact of teleconverters and cropped sensors on the rule of thumb. I think I have my answer there. I rarely do anything hand held. I work slowly and don't do a lot with moving subjects but with the advent of image stabilization and variable sensitivities on digital sensors I'm temped to try a little handheld work and thus my curiosity about the rule of thumb.

Thanks again...

February 7, 2013

The old adage goes that, when hand holding, you should keep your shutter speed faster than the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens. That is pretty simple and easy to remember. My question is how is the affected by the following.

1. Teleconverters - If I am using a 1.4X converter do I need to adjust the shutter speed accordingly? (eg. 200mm + 1.4x = 280mm -> min shutter speed 1/280?)

2. What about cropped sensor cameras - Does the restricted view have the same affect? (eg. 200mm on 1.6 crop factor camera -> min shutter speed of 1/320?)

The attached photo has the following specs

Canon 50D

ISO: 1600

f/ 5.6

300mm (actual focal length)

1/200 sec

Thanks for your help.<div></div>

January 31, 2013

fixed the attachment<div>

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January 31, 2013

From my morning wanderings this last week

January 25, 2013

First time to post in this thread....<div>

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January 16, 2013

Again... Thank you all for your thoughtful responses. You have confirmed some of my thoughts and more importantly given my new perspective on the issue. Based on this information and some additional research that I've done I've decided on keeping the 50D for now and going with the 5D Mk III. I will likely add a 7D at some future date. Of course things could change and I could end up not buying anything. We'll have to wait and see.

Mike N - Ha! Gotta remember that one.

Thank you all again.

Cleeo

January 12, 2013

William W - I appreciate all of the information you've provided. I think to some degree I didn't describe well enough my current situation. You kit sounds impressive but I think I would need to take up bank robbery in addition to receiving a bonus to get all of that gear. In terms of weather sealing, it is my understanding that certain lenses have extra seals in place to keep dust and water out. I do wish that the manufacturers would identify clearly when a filter is required to complete the sealing though. G Dan (Image of a hip hop star comes to mind :))-

in the end I don't think there will be an objectively right answer...

</blockquote>

I agree with this completely. I agree that there are arguments both ways which is why I put it to the group. More data will help me think through the decision carefully and like most here, I don't make any money at this (and frankly don't want to turn it into work) but I do care about the finished product.

To your specific points...

<ul>

<li>I don't need a fast camera. (I don't do that much burst mode work. Almost never)</li>

<li>My goal is not about having a backup camera</li>

<li>I do like the apparent effective focal length change ("reach") of the cropped sensor.</li>

</ul>

There was another thought that occurred to me as I was preparing this post. The dreaded wife factor. I'm sure you can all hear it now. "You bought TWO new cameras? Here is your place on the couch." I like your thought about short term thinking. I do plan to acquire more gear as the years go on. Whatever body and lenses that I but now are intended to last some time so that I can expand the list of gear over time. I'm looking for items that will generate a very high quality image now. (with the proper technique of course) Interestingly though, by that measure I also don't need to buy the most expensive items right off the bat. I can by high quality stuff that I will continue to use for some time. Peter E Size and weight of the kit is one thing that is in my mind. I have been willing to be a pack mule over the years. I am not quite the young man I once was though and I'm beginning to question my patience with this. One of the reasons I considering not buying the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II is because of the weight but at the same time the 2.8 aperture allows one to use tele extenders without compromising the speed too much. This specific issue is one of the reasons I was considering going with a 2 body kit vs. a single body kit. I already carry two bodies with me. (as mentioned in the OP) Again, I really appreciate all of the feedback that you have given me. It is a fascinating exercise to work.

January 12, 2013

I appreciate your answers. Here are a couple more questions.

Consider this: IF you get 7D and a 5D (and are happy to use EITHER body) - the choosing between the three, F/2.8 Zoom Lenses: the 24 to 70 Focal Length Range, is the one which is MOST SUPERFLUOUS in respect of FoV Equivalence.

</blockquote>

What focal lengths would you recommend for a dual camera system. (Normal Zoom, Telephoto Zoom) I understand that Wide Angle gets a bit complicated. I already have a Sigma 10-20 that will work well enough on the 7D. And I don't care if it what I purchase goes much wider than 24mm. I wouldn't mind but it isn't near the top of my priority list. I would probably use the 5D for the Wide stuff anyway.

You also said...

Consider that a 100mm Macro Lens might be more flexible in a Dual Format kit than a 150/180mm Macro Lens.

</blockquote>

I see what you are saying. Using the 100mm would act similar to a 160mm on the 7D. I think my preference here for the Sigma 150 was based on the following review. <a href="http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/667-sigma150f28oseos">http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/667-sigma150f28oseos</a> In this case I was comparing the Sigma review to the Canon review from the same site. <a href="http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/458-canon_100_28is_5d">http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/458-canon_100_28is_5d</a>

Again... I really appreciate your help.

January 11, 2013

"Would you keep the 50D if you bought a 7D? What lenses do you now have (or expect t have) for this final kit of three or four Camera Bodies?"

</blockquote>

I would not keep the 50D if I purchase the 7D.

On the lens side of things I'm looking to do a major replacement there. My current kit contains just consumer grade lenses. I find that I'm getting enough experience now that I'm bumping up against the quality limits of normal consumer grade lenses and I don't have anything with IS. I am more than willing to lug a tripod around and find that I work better when I slow down so I don't think I'm gong to change that any time soon. I've spent a lot of time reviewing lenses on photozone.de because they appear to be objective. That said I'm still somewhat sensitive to price and at the same time am willing to spend more money. (For Example: I would not buy the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L II because there is the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC which isn't particularly cheap either... you get the point I hope) Right now my top three choices (and I will probably buy all three) are

1. Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC

2. Canon 70-200 f/4 IS L

3. Sigma 150 OS Macro

I'm also considering one or more of the following depending on the amount of money available(In no particular order)

A. Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II (in place of the f/4 version) - Maybe even buying the 1.4x and 2.0x teleconverters

B. Canon 24mm TS-E f/3.5 II (I have a 4x5 camera but can't get developing locally and so I'm not willing to bring this out of the bag. Plus I don't want to invest in a scanner)

C. Canon 24mm f/1.4

D. Canon 45mm TS-E f/2.8

E. Canon 90mm TS-E f/2.8

January 11, 2013

Thanks... Yes, I absolutely love my EOS 3. I guess one of the reasons I'm considering going with the 5DmII and the 7D is the weather sealing. I do tend to be out in the weather and love to shoot in poor conditions. My 30D died twice in these sorts of conditions and the second time I decided not to pay to get it fixed. I've been afraid to take the 50D out of the bag when it is raining.

January 11, 2013

So I'm going to receive a bonus from work in a couple of months and may be acquiring some new equipment. (The amount of the bonus is TBD still) I currently have an EOS 3 (Yes I still shoot film) and a 50D. Looking at the prices on B&H and depending on the size of the bonus I'm considering either buying a 5d Mk III or a 5D Mk II together with a 7D since both of these together cost about the same as a Mk III by itself. If it isn't this large I'll probably just be buying a 5d Mk II.

I primarily shoot landscape and nature stuff and will have a standard set of lenses. I would love to get your thoughts on this. I've been doing lots of research, reading reviews, etc. and can't decide. I need more data. Real world experience would be best as I can get controlled technical comparisons from other sources.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

November 19, 2012

I've recently picked up B&W film again after many years away. I purchased two rolls of everything Kodak and Illford. I started working my way through the Illford and so far my favorite is Delta 100. I've developed everything in HC-110B So far for me this is a clear favorite. It costs a little more than the FP4 and HP5 but also comes with the biggest discount per roll if buying in bulk. Delta 400 was OK but I found I had to rate it at 320 to avoid seriously thin negatives. (That is probably just my fault as well.)<div>

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November 4, 2012

Thanks guys... The photo was taken using Illford Delta 400 rated at 320. I believe the process was as follows.

HC-110 Dilution B for 7.5 minutes, agitate for 10 seconds (inversion) every minute

Illfostop for ~30 seconds

Kodafix for 11 minutes

1 minute rinse with slowly running water

3 minutes in the fixer remover

10 minute rinse in slowly running water

2 minutes in distilled water with Photo Flo

I scanned it using an Optek 7600i with Silver Fast scanning software

Photoshop CS5.1

Desaturate - Silver Fast seems to scan B&W a bit green

Levels adjustments

Burned in the lower face and beard and the top of the bed roll

That is about it...

Thanks again

November 4, 2012

I don't claim any long running experience with Fixer. I'm using Kodafix. I've mixed enough for my tank once and done a number of rolls over the last month and change with no appreciable lengthening of the fix times. I believe that the base solution will last quite a while if left unmixed and it is pretty easy to just mix what is needed. If it lasts only a year I'll get some good economy out of my chemistry. I bought the following from B&H

Developer: HC-110 ($12.49)

Stop: Illfostop ($6.50)

Fix: Kodafix ($6.95)

Wash: Sprint Fixer Remover ($8.87)

Wetting: Photo Flo ($7.99)

Total: $42.80

If I only averaged 1 roll per week and at the end of the year had to throw all of the rest of the chemicals away it would only cost me $0.82 per roll. (Way cheaper than sending it out and much less fun) If I don't end up having to throw anything away and I get the advertised use out the chemicals the price goes down to about $0.29 per roll. Plunking down $43 / year on chemicals is well worth the risk of not getting maximum use. Beyond that I know there are many here that would not waste money on stop bath or fixer remover. (I'm just playing it safe at first)

Again, because I don't have much time under my belt all of this is just stupid and I'm sure some kind soul will point that out to me. :)

Cleeo

November 4, 2012

I'm in the same boat as you. I take a roll or three a month. After lots of reading here in the forum I decided to go with HC-110 as you mention and I always just mix it as a one shot developer. Easy, clean, simple to mix. I'm finding that it works great for me. The only downside to it as a developer is that it is pretty potent (even at dilution B) so that the developing times for some films can be very short and certain options of pushing or pulling may not be an option using HC-110. If you have a favorite film that you will be using then you may want to check that first.

I mix my other chemicals just enough to fill the tank and so even though they may expire before they are completely used up I'm not wasting much. The advertised shelf life for these chemicals is not too bad and so if I mix small quantities it seems that I'll be able to get pretty good use for the $. Others with more experience can probably chime in more about shelf life.

All the best.

Posted October 27, 2012 · October 27, 2012

As one of those posting on the 25th, I can assure you that if you are part of an experiment I am not part of it. (or maybe that is just what I want you to think) Oh, and I'm not from NJ.

October 25, 2012

The attached section of a photo shows an issue that showed up this last time that I processed some film. This was only my 5th roll to be developed at home and this is the first time I've seen this. Any ideas?

Illford Pan F

Kodak HC110 - Dilution B 4 Min at 20 degrees C

Illford Stop

Kodak Rapid Fix - 6 Minutes

Sprint Systems Wash (1 Min Water, 3 Min Wash, 10 Min water)

4 drops Kodak Photo Flo

The issue doesn't appear to be on all of the negatives but there are several in a row. I developed this in a Patterson Super System 4 Tank. I only had one reel with film on it in the bottom and the other in to hold it in place.

Any information would be appreciated.

October 5, 2012

and again... One more...<div>

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October 5, 2012

Thank you again for your help. I was able to keep the chemicals at a good temp with a temering bath. My negaives came out a bit thin but I think that had more to do with not down rating the film I was using than anything else. I'll attach a photo or two from my first shot.<div>

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October 5, 2012

Here is one more...<div>

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October 5, 2012

Thank you for your help... Success with round 1 though the negs were a little thin. I was using HP5+ but probably should have rated it at 320 based on some other forum threads that I've read. For some reason I can get the ActiveX control working to load a folder so I'll post one or two images that I developed here on this thread. Thanks again everyone.<div>

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Posts posted by cleeo_wright