kev

Take a look at the Wehman. Solid, light weight and extremely well built.

 

http://www.wehmancamera.com/camera.html

 

Kev

OH easy.

 

Go and buy the most current digital camera out there with say hmmm 10 MP and then DL then just make sure the camera is set to auto everything and start pushing the button. Don�t worry about light or anything. Photoshop will create the image for you, as there is no talent in taking pictures. Just push a button and off you go. Creativity? Don�t need it when you got Photoshop. Just load in CS push a few buttons, setup that ink printer and go at it. 1 million copies of identical pieces or paper with spray paint all over them.

 

Heck in this technology age who needs creativity or talent. The computers will do it for it.

 

Sheesh...

 

Word of advice, go and buy a Pentax K1000 a bulk loader and starting taking real pictures and learn how to manipulate the light, the scene, expose the film, develop and print it to your taste, and most importantly, do not rely on a computer.

 

Rely on yourself and YOUR artistic vision, not computers.

You need to test your negatives. Zone test for z1 and z8.

 

Use densitometer if you do not have one you could use a spot meter but not as accurate or you could print for max black and max white off the z1 and z8 test negs.

 

That is the only way to know what your index is and your dev time. Other than that you are just guessing.

 

Here is a link that will explain it without a densitometer.

 

http://www.zone2tone.co.uk/testingm.htm

 

Also depending on the developer you are using I am getting an EI of 200 with HP5. N = 200, N+1 = 320 and N+2 = 400. HC110 1:45 @ 68F. As far as time you really need to test it with your equipment and lenses you are shooting.

 

Also expose for shadows and develop for highlights. Key is consistency.

 

Then when you print you print for highlights and see where the rest falls. Always start with a low contrat and move your way up. But again the highlights are key to the proper exposure.

 

http://www.sbccphoto.org/show_tip.asp?ID=6

http://www.apogeephoto.com/mag1-6/mag2-5js.shtml

 

If you have any question drop me an email.

 

Hope this helps...

I was thinking of the Microtek 900i or the Epson Perfection 4870 PRO but it seems that the way to go would be the Microtek 1800f or try using my imacon and scan twice and stitch. I do have a 6x17 holder would that do the trick?

 

I just need to be able to make good quality prints so I can sell to my client base. They are used tothe Imacon but like I said there is no way I can afford the Imacon that can do 4x5.

 

Has anyone used the 900i microtek or the epson 4800 pro series? I know you get what you pay for but the stats look good on them but in the long run woudl I be better just getting the 1800f?

 

Thanks,

 

Kev

A while back I ended up buying an Imacon 343 which would do all my MF

and pano negatives. The reason I bought the scanner was to sell my

art work at gallery and I needed a high quality scan adn at the time I

was not shooting 4x5 and I didnt anticipate it. But now I have gotten

into 4x5 I need need to make high quality scans but cannot afford to

pay the same price I paid for the Imacon.

 

What is a good flatbed scanenr that will give me excellent 24" prints.

If I have to go larger than I will ahve to print traditional via a

lab. I scan a lot and quality is important to me.

 

Pelae advise and I would greatly appreciate any help you can offer.

 

Thanks,

 

Kev

It depends how fast you need it. If you can wait and the test turn out positive for the D2H get it. But if you are like me and this is yoru living get the D1H. I cant wait 3 months to get a D2H. Also if you are doing sports you will need to go with the H series or switch to cannon.

Well,

 

I just picked up the Imacon 343 scanner last week and

I am completely impressed. The quailty is just outstanding!

 

I cannot believe the shadow and highlight detail that can be

pulled out. I have a Minolta Dimage Scan Muti and the Imacon

blows it away. I have even compared it to the nikon and still no

comparrison. The Imacon is just incrediable. The prints made from

the scans are sharp and full of detail.

 

The flexcolor software is easy to use and fully functional. The scans need little tweaking via flexcolor. They also have flextouch which is for dust and scratch removal I do not use it. I just clean the chromes or negs first then scan. With any scanner I do not use dust removal as all of them take away from the quailty of the scan slightly. If you have no choice then that is another story.

 

All I can say that is you need a scanner then the Imacon is the only way to go.

 

Kev

Hello everyone,

 

I am looking at getting a backpack for my photo gear when hiking. I

carry a Linoff 6x17, Hasselblad 2 back and 4 lenses. Also 35MM body

80-200 2.8, 17-35 2.8, 105 macro 1 flash, Gitzo 1410 Tripod and

accessories.

 

I was looking at the lowepro Pro Trekker AW or the Super Trekker AW.

I am about 5'8". I figure the pack will be about 40 pounds or so and

that is ok.

 

Currently I carry two shoulder bags and it is becomming a real pain.

 

Please advise as I am in the need or ordering within a day or two.

 

Thanks,

 

Kev

Thank you everyone. I went ahead and ordered the Imacon and Epson 7600 printer.

 

Thanks again,

 

Kev

Hello All,

 

I am stuck. I have a large number of prints to get enlagred. Around

100+ that will be on display. Instead of paying someone to do it I am

going to buy the Epson 7600 and a scanner. The problem is I dont know

which type because of the 6x17 format I use.

 

I have searched and have some up with a Imacon 343 or the Microtek 2500f.

 

Do you have any input on these two scanners? I shoot 60% 6x6, 30%

6x17 and 10% 35mm. I will need to make scans from each format type.

I will not need 4x5 or 8x10.

 

I realize that the Microtek is a flatbed but it just is more

affordable. I can get the Microtek and the epson for close to the

cost of the Imacon alone. But if the Imacon is superior then what

choice do I have.

 

If I didnt have 6x17 this wouldnt be so difficult.

 

Please advise. If you know of any other scanners that are better

please feel free to let me know!

 

Thanks,

 

Kev

I just bought this meter online and recived it. But I am not sure if

it is working. Does the LCD display light up? If not how do you

view the screen at night?? Is there a burron of something you can do

to light it up?

 

The Minolta 4 light up as well as the the Minolta F spot meter.

 

Also, how on earth to you read multiple flashe pops?

There was a switch on the side of the Minolta 4 but on this ones

geez. I think I may have wasted $400+ bucks.

 

The manual is crap!

 

Frustrated pleae advise.

 

Kev

When I shoot in low level light with long exposure. 10+ seconds I

get white looking dots all over the image. It isnt noise at least I

dint think it is.

 

Even if I change lenses I get the exact same white marks everywhere.

I did a test of differtent locations with long exposure and the white

marks are in the same place every time. The lenses are clean because

if I shot with film F5 I do not get any problems like this at all.

 

Attached are some examples. If you look in the right lower you will

see the exact same white dots/lines/etc... in the exact same location.

 

I really need help as Nikon has not replied and I need to know what

to do.

 

Is this something I have to just deal with or can this be fixed or ???

 

I just bought the camera and I am stumped.

 

Image 1;

http://www.photo.net/photo/1540443&size=lg

 

Image 2;

http://www.photo.net/photo/1540444&size=lg

 

The white dots are in the exact same place.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin

Hello All,

 

I have been shooting mainly chromes for awhile now with the 6x17 but

now I want to get into B&W more heavily and I want to be able to

print my own images as I want to be able to have full contol over the

finished product.

 

COuld someone please tell me wher I can find an enlarger that will

support this film size???

 

I cannot find anything anywhere?

 

It is the same as an 8x10 neg but cut in thirds.

 

Thank you very much,

 

Kevin