tertiarymatt

<p>I just picked up one of these lenses (sans flange), and am thinking of mounting it for a 3.25x4.25 Anniversary Speed Graphic. </p>

<p>Did you work out a solution? </p>

Thanks again, everyone, for the various suggestions!

While browsing around on Photographer's Formulary, I noticed a "Silver Intensifier", which deposits more silver on the film.

Any one have any luck with this, alone, or in combination with other intensification steps?

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the input.

I'm not terribly put off by the chemistry. I've worked in research chem labs in the past, and know when I need to be careful (i.e. always!).

Unfortunately, we don't have particularly good ventilation in the photolab I'm working at now...

It seems to be a moot point, however, given the thinness of the negs, and that they are a T-max type film.

I scanned a half dozen frames last night, using Silverfast, and even with multiple passes per scan, etc, they're pretty terrible.

Robert, out of curiosity (and since I may end up having to do it anyway, as the customer might insist, regardless of the chances of it creating any improvement) I'd like to go over the details a bit more.

If i understand correctly, the acidic chromate solution bleaches the silver from elemental silver back to a salt, the film is re-exposed to strong light (just a guess), and then redeveloped in the PMK (with some density increase from the staining effect?), washed and fixed, and then this is repeated. At the end, one could bleach and redevelop with a sulphide toner to get another density boost.

And finally, what's the downside? Are there any risks to the film/images involved? With there being such a small amount of silver on the emulsion at this point, is there a risk of losing any into solution during the bleaching steps? Loss of what detail there is, etc?

Thanks again! It's nice to have very knowledgeable folks around when you find yourself in a tight spot!

Hi there Robert!

I have a couple questions:

Firstly, how thin is too thin? On casual inspection, the film appears to be completely blank; it requires pretty close inspection to discover the frames on the film, but there are some discernible details. I have yet to try scanning the film as it is.

Secondly, if i read your post correctly, you're suggesting to bleach in dichromate, and then redevelop with a strong PMK solution (just seeking to clarify). Also, could you give me a little insight on the chemistry involved here?

Hi all.

Longtime lurker, and you all have been very helpful to me on more than one

occasion...

Here's the situation:

I work in a lab, and we process film with a Jobo.

Turns out one of our tank lids is just a little bit busted, and leaky.

So, i processed a roll of T-max 3200, and it came out pretty transparent, as the

developed leaked out before it could do its thing. Unfortunately, the fixer did

a much better job than the developer, and fixed the film pretty well.

There are a few frames that have -something- on them, but they are very, very faint.

The customer is (justifiably) pissed off, and refuses to believe there's really

not much that can be done.

I have seen it suggested that one can bump up the contrast of very thin negs via

toning with selenium, but I have also seen it said that selenium won't help.

Any thoughts on this? Is there some secret magic bullet to getting more info off

this film that I don't know about?