patrick_viebey___orlando__

For the record, I also had a bad scare with my D1x. Went to a function, and it was doing all kinds of whacky things. Not focusing sometimes, not opening shutter sometimes, giving strange errors. Happily, it's the backup, not my primary....

I thought it'd had a CPU failure of some kind and was starting to sweat a big repair bill. Kept playing with it.

Finally went "hey, this is sorta like if the battery is bad", but battery didn't really show that. And, my voltmeter said the voltage was right. Hmmmm.

Just for fun, bought another battery, which 100% fixed my problems. So, another piece of advice... Like all battery thingies, if it's acting weird, try it on AC, or try another battery.....

FYI, it only comes with the adapter to use the D300 or AA batteries. The EN-EL4a requires an additional adapter.

Buying another D300 battery is ummm about the same cost.

Ralph: This is exactly what I was considering, but can you shed more light on "converted the end of the Quantum cord to match my chosen male connector." Which Qauntum cord did you use? Which color wires went to pos/neg?

I'm considering doing the same thing, with either a 5A (C cell pack) or 10A (D cell pack) NIMH pack. 5A should give me 2x, 10A 4x (likely wayyyyy overkill).

Here's where I found some nice pre-made 6v NIMH packs with charger... http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3128

I'm also designing in something to show the battery state, using this LED voltage indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Expert-Electronics-Battery-Voltage-Indicator/dp/B0006O5LUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1199307526&sr=8-1

Me, personally, I've never gotten the reason for several small storage cards. Each card just increases the odds something will break - for example, the small metal pins where you stick the card in.

I use a 8Gb card, put it in the camera, format it there, test it (take picture, view it), and then it stays in the camera as long as possible (when I return from the event, and then I dump it immediately to HD, and then made a DVD before I do anything else).

CF, SD, etc are all 'solid state' media, and don't fail mechanically like a hard drive does. I guess I just wonder how many folks lose a card or something bad like that - I think the odds are higher of that than a corruption on a flash card. And, if you break those little pins, your camera is also out of commision. How often does that happen? Well, it's a mechanical contact...

Just my 2 cents. I thorougly suggest the 'best glass you can afford', because that'll be your next frustration if you don't...

Get something like Bibble (inexpensive and free eval available) and you can do batch color/sharpen/resize/crop where you get the first one in a series right and then you can easily copy those changes (and the changes are stored separately, so the RAW is affected if you mess up).

You need to size (crop/resolution) it for the output they want.

You will likely need to do color correction.

You're going to likely need to crop for good composition (well, sometimes at least)

RAW doesn't auto sharpen, so you need to apply sharpening.

Lastly, you will have several hundreds of pictures you need to work with, so if you want to do it professionally, you're going to need some type of workflow to make it easier.

Hope this helps.

pat

Did you try the utility from Sandisk's web site?

Format and Read/Write Check Utility http://www.sandisk.com/Retail/Default.aspx?CatID=1354

It seems odd to me that you couldn't even reformat it in a reader. My bet is that the filesystem got messed up in the card somehow. Try using the utility - I don't have a card here, but with a hard drive, we would call it a 'low level reformat'.

Worth trying anyways...

pat

With my D1X, I've had unhappy experiences copying it through the camera. You will have much less problems pulling the card out and using a reader.

Or, when you get messed up files, don't blame us...

It also is MUCH faster using a reader...

pat

Nope. I found one online review, dont have the link, but google will find it.

In my case, it's between the D200 and the Fuji S5. Lowlight performance on my D2X is not good, so it would be lovely to replace the other camera (D1X) with a S5, if it gives what it sounds like...

pat

Maybe it's an over-simplification (or just me), but I think about raw/jpeg like film/slide...

If you shot film, it was almost impossible to figure out what the print would look like, so you 'trusted' the printing process. If you shot slides, you could see exactly how dense the image was, how color was working etc, which means you (or at least I) could figure out what adjustments I wanted on the print (and not 'automatic').

Of course, the ability to fix the 'ooops' is awesome the first time you forget to reset your white balance (and trusting white balance is pretty much always a compromise).

Regarding the difficulty, Photoshop Elements will suck in a 'RAW' image, adjust it (like your camera would, but probably better), and then let YOU apply what changes make sense to you, without affecting the image quality. But maybe some folks don't ever digitally edit their images (I only wish I was that good).

I recall there were folks who had the SAME argument about slide versus film. I think the answer is still - whatever works for you.

My 'travel' camera only stores JPEGs, and if I mess those up, not so bad, but if I'm on a paying gig, I want all the options I can (so, I use BOTH).

To me, it's like saying your an elitist because you like both airbags and seatbelts...

pat

GF works on Elements for me.

It's also pretty expensive, and I've seen/read other things about doing it manually that reportedly provide the about the same quality (using a multi-pass process, not just a single step).

Upsizing is always a pain, since you're creating info that doesn't exist. I'd do a google on it.

There's an interesting point I think here. Who was the CONTRACT with? If the contract is with the B or G or whatever, no one else gets a vote.

If the person with the contract wants to lodge a complaint, that's interesting. No one else has any standing for 'how long for a complaint or not'. And frankly, I would probably point that out somewhere.

Also, the joy of dealing with the public. If they're irrational, pack your toys and go elsewhere. And, I'd bet once you put it to them that you won't take their abuse, but you will work with them - if they'll work with you their attitude will change. Or it won't, in which case, byebye. Of the many times I've used this strategy, it pretty much always seems to calm folks down. But, if it DOES go down this path, start taking careful notes in case it ends up in court.

I've been dealing with the public like this for 30+ years, and yea, unfortunately, there are some irrational folks out there....

pat

One thought on backups, FWIW. Use your 'worst case' scenario. Worst case if you backup once a month and get a flood or fire or someone steals every piece of hardware, you lose a months worth of 'stuff'...

pat

I have to set mine to cloudy+2 (on Nikon D2x), as suggested by Moose Petersen, and it's the best setting I've found for outdoors.

You may want to try a color chart test.

BUT, no matter what, raw will save your *** because using 'auto' WB usually is only marginally successful (my experience), and then when you forget to change it, if you're shooting anything else, life will suck. With raw, you just change the wb, and life is good again.

So, yeah... sounds right to me.

Digital is digital, don't know you can directly compare the 2, since there's a 'brain' in the way....

My 2 cents.

pat

The only time I would 'transfer' to TIF is if I felt I wanted to save an original in an editable mode, or if I was gonna edit it, and then give it to someone else (who might wanna edit it).

You will lose image quality every single time you save - JPEG compression is *by definition* lossy, which means data is lost. The amount depends a lot on the quality of the image to start with, what JPEG settings you use, and ummm, how good your eyes are (and what you're going to do with it).

Hope this helps.

You may also notice the JPEG is sharper. I suspect this is due to in camera processing...

I usually compare this to comparing a print from a negative to a slide. A slide will show you the actual picture you took (good or bad), a print will show you a 'automatically adjusted' picture - so it 'fixes' the errors you made. Or, may automatically adjust it wrong (hence why beach pictures get screwed up in a print, but not a slide...)

If it's flat, I wonder if your exposure is spot-on or not.

I for sure am not an expert in D50's, but don't see this with Bibble and D2x or D1x, unless I screw it up.

I don't see a way to change a 'standard' default, but you could save a settings with it adjusted the way you want, and then load/paste it into pictures. That's what I typically do with Bibble anyway (load first picture in same light/config, get it right, then c-n-p to the other similar images/exposures).

pat

Dunno if this was said, but my thoughts, for what they're worth...

Fill...or shade somehow. Fill flash. Fill card. Or, get some shade. They make cool collapsable thingies. Cardboard works.

If you shoot digital, you can do 2 exposures (tripod!), one for the background, one for your party, and then blend. Or, if you shoot raw, you can play around (if you have enough exposure latitude) and bring in light areas.

In Orlando, every outdoor shoot is either rainy or like this, sometimes on the same day...

Sun ain't near so bad as a rip-roaring thunderstorm...

pat

My personal favorite (as silly as it sounds) is in a holster in my pocket. And, yes they make holsters for pockets and yes it's safe.

http://www.pocketholsters.com/

I also have a very small 9mm that doesn't look anything like the huge S&W or Glock automatics you see on TV. It also weighs less than 1.5lbs. www.kahr.com

Just for repeat value, nothing is safer than simply not putting yourself in a position where you need to defend yourself. And, nothing is worth your life.

pat

Joseph:

The world is full of folks who said it couldn't be done, when others proved it could. Good luck!

A few thoughts (NOT FLAMES!)

1: Insurance to protect you. What happens if someone trips over your tripod, or the film/images get lost/damaged? You could end up paying the rest of your life... Consider joining like PPA or something to get it. This really is important.

2: Insurange for your equipment. If it's stolen, you're out of business. Check where you have your home/renter/car insurance. PPA also has a policy. Kinda a good idea.

3: Set it up as a business, get a CPA to help. You gotta have licenses and pay taxes, otherwise the govt will find you and fine you bunches (you gotta figure out how you pay taxes as a 'employer'). This is local and state... A CPA can help get the paperwork done and explain what to do.

4: insurance for your health. If you're the 'sole provider', and you break your hip, you won't be able to work, and the hospital bills will kill you (ok, that's a joke). You're young, you can do without it (you're thinking), but just think a moment first... Yeah, PPA can do this too...and I'm sure others.

5: What's your 'break even'? Add up all the 'things' you gotta pay each month (rent, meals, haircut, girl, insurance, etc). Add your 'operational' expenses (gas to visit client, gas to wedding, print costs, whatever). A good guess... now, if you make less than this, you'll starve. Figure you pay say 20% in taxes (that may not be right, but whatever, your CPA can tell you what % to use). That means you get to keep $400. Divide that $400 into the 'break even'. That's your 'nut' of how many deals you need to do each month, or you need to find other ways to supplement your income.

6: Advertising - how do you find customers? You gotta figure that out, so you can make your nut... Can't give too much advice here, since it depends. Network a lot (friends, friends of friends, etc).

Hope this is at least a little bit of a help. Again, go for it and good luck.

pat

Well, out of respect to Bob, I'll keep to his original message and avoid the temptation to debate what is/isn't respectful.

No matter what, I agree with Bob's thought on safety, and I think that's the kernal of truth here.

My opinion is mine, your opinion may be different, and I can respect that as well. I also never present myself as a 'master' of anything (and am hugely suspicious of folks who do).

Be safe.

pat

OK, I have a concealed weapons permit (as well as a nice 9mm Kahr), as well as a fair amount of serious experience in the martial arts (as a fighting, not performance art), including many blunt and sharp weapons (a broom makes a VERY nice weapon, btw).

In Florida, any place that serves alcohol or any city park or pretty much any government facility will call it a felony to carry a concealed weapon. Any, that's not limited to just guns.

It's not getting stuff stolen that scares me, it's the folks who'll rob you, and then kill you anyway. If ever I land in a situation where I feel like I'm going to be attacked no matter what I do, I'll defend myself, using as much force as the situation warrants. BTW: There are also specific engagement rules - if someone accosts you, you pull a handgun, you are now guilty of escalating the situation. And, if you use lethal force without being in actual real jeopardy, you could end up in jail (and very likely a huge lawsuit). And, if you end up in a gunfight, somebody (possibly you) could end up dead.

The best 'self defense' is not to put yourself in that position, and keep yourself aware of what's going on. For sure, I wouldn't go bopping by myself through a dark parking lot at night carrying my gear.

That said, if I were to take a job in a location I feared for my safety and it didn't violate any statutes, either I'd decline the job, or I may well be carrying. No, I don't feel the need to notify anyone (and basically my goal is that no one ever ever ever knows I have it). That's my last resort (including giving stuff up, that's what insurance is for). But, if I'm convinced I'm going to end up hurt, there's no other choice...

PS: OK, now we're gonna have the gun argument. I'm on the far side, given I was raised in Texas, and my father taught marksmanship for 25 years in the military. Guns, knives, and shovels don't kill people - they're tools. OTOH, to be fair, I'm not quite sure why folks need assault rifles...

But, stuff is replaceable. That's why we have insurance.

Rule 1: Don't put yourself in that position

Rule 2: Keep situation awareness (who is around you) when walking around

Rule 3: Give it up if it will make them go away

Rule 4: Never EVER let yourself be kidnapped from a scene

(and my personal Rule 5: When in death ground, fight (to misquore Tsun Tzu)) This implies the willingness to kill in self defense, and the experience with the tools to do it, which is actually where most people get 'dangerous' to themselves and others.

pat

Kelly/David:

Hi!

I'm actually one of those folks who only shoot digital (D2X/D1X). Yes, you can reduce your operational expenses that way a LOT (especially since I don't 'do' books or prints for my customers). But, still, you have fixed expenses (like finding/closing customers, insurance, mileage, meals, etc) that eat stuff up. And good equipment isn't cheap...

I'm also one of those 'weekend' photogs some folks rail on, but for me, $500 is below what I consider a reasonable income for my time, all factors considered.

I've been doing photography for over 25 years, when the only 'automatic' function was exposure (getting a Canon A1 with a LED display was high tech). Did a bunch of events/weddings, enjoyed the experience, and had folks try to convince me to go fulltime, but basically I already had a pretty good career, and basically shooting film for something as critical as a wedding made me not enjoy it, because I always had this nagging worry about that 'latent' image. I also hated not being able to really visulize the output, so I mostly shot Kodachrome (I didn't want to do my own printing). Folks who still shoot film will decry this, but it's what I felt. Digital allows me to verify I have an image, so my comfort level is much higher, and of course I still have the skills needed before 'auto everything' became popular...

I also have 30+ years experience in the computer industry, so the intersection of computers and cameras is a natural for me.

I had a bunch of other 'life experiences' that kept me from photography, but decided to get back into it. Doing wedding/events and stuff is a way for me to generate extra income (and help justify some of my expenses). I for sure don't need it today for a living, but at $500, by the time you really boil down the 'hidden' costs (beyond that 6 hour day shooting the wedding), I just consider my time (and skills) worth more than that.

I'm pretty sure this 'floor' of 'semi-pros' has always existed. IMHO, digital has dropped the 'floor' because of the reduction in 'fixed' expenses (film/printing). And, 'auto everything' has reduced the risk to the inexperienced...or so they think... I'm continually amazed by the folks who book a wedding and then ask "what do I do next..." for something so important to their customers.

BTW: I've been in Orlando area for about 18 years, moved here from San Antonio.

pat

It's sorta funny to me. This is one of 3 things:

1: Someone who didn't really do all the numbers, and will expense himself out of business.

2: Someone who did the numbers, has other sources of income, and hey, an extra $500 for 'free' doesn't hurt. They are likely not well equipped, experienced, etc.

3: A business that is playing pricing games. Yeah, for $500 we'll be there for 1 hour, and give you 20 4x6 prints, but if you want our platinum plan, blah blah.

My bet first it's 3, then 2. 1 is a possibility (look at the number of businesses that die in 2 months).

Either way, it sorts itself out. If it's 1, then they go away. If it's 2, they'll attract customers who would hire "Uncle Bob" otherwise. If it's 3, well, that's capitalism...caveat emptor!

pat

I'd strongly suggest you go there and experiment a bit at about the time (so you can see ambient light) they want to do the pictures.

Borrow a subject to practice. Use your histograms, and watch your depth of field (so everyone ends up in focus). That means you want a fairly high fstop (but that also has to balance against how much light and shutter speed you can get away with). Don't use a telephoto (DOF).

Indoors or out? Either way, make sure you have enough light. And, if outdoors, you want a way to diffuse the light (under trees) if it's mid-day and/or use enough flash to overcome the ambient lighting. Best if it's outdoors is late afternoon light...

A tripod is the only way to go. For a bunch of reasons...

At least that's my thoughts. I'm sure there are folks here who have done this thousands of times, but my number one thing is to go there with confidence - and that means having testing it in advance to predict the outcome. Managing your lighting is the thing to watch, IMHO.

Hope this helps.

pat

30 second google search...

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Wireless-Transmitter-Digital-Camera/dp/B000HKIWOE

I assume your question isn't "Where can I get it cheap", 'cause I think that ain't happenin'.

Me personally, I'd do up to what I could withing what I was contracted for (including contacting them for stuff).

If they tell you to go away, or they don't follow up, you're off the hook.

But - you got a contract, you either execute within the terms of the contract or hope someone doesn't eventually wake up and slam you for breaching it.

Look at it this way. You probably have other valuable family pix somebody wants. My contract always has ONE signature, so if they get divorced, that's still who my contract is with. If they want it, they can have it. Divorce has nothing to do with it...maybe they just use the family photos.

pat