adnan
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Posts posted by adnan
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<p>Your V500 should be able to do this, just lay the negative flat on the bed and select "image guide" (that's what the option is on my older V700 to select the correct lens/focus distance). For this scan, I put a piece of ANR glass to see if it reduces/eliminates newton rings. Most of the time it works pretty well, not 100% though.</p>
<p>(Pentax 67 with the 45mm)</p>
<p><img src="http://monochromal.com/photo/images/20091209010601_img056.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="807" /></p>
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Sure, here's the 35L wide open on a 10D<P>
<center><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/carrerafan/35l.jpg"></center>
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Bill,
I have the EF 35/1.4L. It's practically welded to my camera. (~normal perspective on my 10D). Focus is very quick and super quiet (USM), construction is solid, pictures are as sharp as I need for my mostly handheld indoors/lowlight use. When used at large apertures, the quality of the OOF areas is goreous, if you're into that sort of thing. If I didn't need the extra stop, I would have loved the EF 35/2 which is much smaller and much less expensive and is said to be great optically as well.
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Mark Ng... nothing's wrong with "Made in China" from a quality standpoint, of course. I'm familiar with workers in modern electronic factories over there making $0.25/hr producing electronic parts to the exact same ISO/QS9000 standards followed in the US. Hopefully the gal stiching together a $400 purse is making a bit more.
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Its pretty cool cos it doesn't really look like a camera bag... more like a manbag which isn't much better :-) Mine's carries my 10D and spare lens.<P>
Speaking of bags... I just got back from the mall, I wanted to buy my wife a Kate Spade purse for her birthday as I'd seen her checking them out. A decent sized leather one was $400. Ouch... then I read the tag inside. <i>Made in China</i>. I wonder how much of the $400 the lady who stitched it together will see. Anyone know what sort of salaries workers in Asian factories of these high end products make? Or am I looking at this situation in totally the wrong way? (I don't think a Kate Spade made in China would be any better or worse than one made in Italy).
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Rene,
True for most game, makes them taste... gamey.
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What is the process that places like mpix.com and others use? I'm familiar with color inkjet at home and for B&W, I've had a real good experience with an on-line lab that does true B&W prints on an enlarger from a digital file. Are the color prints from online places much longer lasting than inkjet for example?
Thanks.
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I don't think you'll find a 28mm equiv f2 just yet.
<p>
The Panasonic described earlier seems like a good option. There's also the Sony T1. If its as fast as the <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/news/0402/04021106sonydscw1.asp"> W1 </a>, it could be fast enough to satisfy. The W1 will fit in your jeans pocket, but you probably don't want to walk around all day with it. The T1 will fit anywhere.
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Just an update. Sent an unedited jpeg file shot at ISO400 on my Canon 10D to them. Specified fibre paper, selenium toned, and matting. Results? Wow. I'll be very proud to give this print to the people I'd shot it for.
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Bored of Prague in a week? impossible. I was there for four short days last summer and haven't stopped thinking of it since.
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I have a 20/1.8 and a Canon 24/2.8... Since I got the 24, I use it mostly. Not b/c of image quality, but mostly due to the size and weight advantage. I took it on a hike yesterday and wished I'd something wider on a lot of my shots. Same thing the other day when I was taking pictures at a small downtown area nearby. Depending on what you consider slice of life :), the 38-equiv may be a bit restrictive.
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35 'cron<p>
<center><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2121403-lg.jpg"></center>
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Hi,
I bought the 35/f1.4 a little while back for my 10D.
Its obviously a great lens in that I've had no complaints about the quality, even wide open. In fact I use it at f1.4 most of the time. No scientific tests and haven't compared it to anything, but the reason I spent the extra cash was:
1) To keep from having to go past ISO400 in indoor evening shots. (I use my camera about 65% in this situation and feel its a worthwhile purchase in that regard). To my eyes, this is a better solution than going to ISO800 and then having to use noise reduction software.
2) To be able to get less depth of field for more background blur compared to the f2. Here's where I should have done more homework. Because its a 35mm lens, its not really easy to blur out the background unless your subject is fairly close to the camera... even at f1.4. (If you care about the 'quality' of OOF areas, this one does not dissapoint)
A 35mm lens turns into a great 'normal' lens on these cameras. Whenever full frame digital becomes affordable (5 yrs?), I'll sell this and pick up a 50/1.4. Till then, I'm going to enjoy the speed, the lovely USM, and the sweet background blur, when you can coax it out, that is :-)
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Thanks guys, I'm going to send some files out later this week to them. They're going to be off a 10D (I imagine files from a digital camera are the main intent for this process?), and I'll report back.
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Anyone tried out their services for B&W prints? The method sounds
really interesting. From what I gathered from their website, it looks
like they exchange the film carrier on an enlarger with a clear LCD
panel that acts as the negative (and light can be shined through it).
<p>
Can anyone tell from experience if the results are indistinguishable
from conventional wetroom prints?
<p>
From their website:
<i>"We hand-print digital b&w prints directly from digital files using
the DeVere Digital Enlarger. No inkjet, no interneg. Your files are
printed directly onto the same silver-rich traditional photo papers
that we use for making prints from negatives. This means you get the
same fantastic print quality you were accustomed to getting from
negatives before you went digital. Crisp clean whites, velvety grays,
and deep rich blacks. No gray on gray..."
<p>
"Three: Yes. We use real photo paper. It is not inkjet paper, or
any kind of special paper. We are printing digital files
directly onto real honest-to-gosh silver gelatin fibre base & RC
photo papers. In fact, we didn?t even have to buy any more
paper when we installed the digital enlarger. We just started
using the same paper we?ve been using all along. After
fibre prints leave the enlarger base board they are still
hand-processed in trays.
<p>
And... Four: No, we?re not kidding. This is the answer to your
prayers."<p></i>
<a href="http://www.bestlab.com/sanmig14.html"> website </a><p>
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well, you learn something new everyday:<p>
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Friday_(shopping)">
Black Friday </a>
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Thanks for all the quick responses! (even the cryptic 'black friday' one).
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Hi,
Been shooting with a 256mb Sandisk compact flash for about a year on
my 10D. I'm looking at getting a 2gb CF and am not sure what the
different choices mean... Here's my short list from BH:
2GB Sandisk Type 1: $147
2GB Sandisk Ultra II: $190
2GB Lexar 80X with WA: $199.95
Basically, I'm happy with the speed of my current card, I don't really
do sports photography or anything, but if $40 or $50 extra will buy me
significat noticable speed, then I'll be willing to spring for it.
Which should I go with and what's the difference?
Thanks in advance!
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Yeah... not razor sharp at f1.8 but really quite usable for casual indoor/evening shots.
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Thanks for all the responses!
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What is the main difference between the "Rolleiflex T" and the
"Rolleicord" models? I used to have a Rolleiflex 2.8C, is there much
difference in quality between this and the Rolleiflex T (besides the
Planar vs Tessar lens)?
I'm also looking at a Minolta Autocord in the same price range, how
does this compare with the "T"?
Lastly, I've heard you can drop in a piece of fresnel that you can
pick up from Office Depot to improve the finder brightness. How well
does this work... anywhere close to the Maxwell screen quality?
Thanks in advance!
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Donald,
Intersting shot with the 50/0.95!
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Same here, instead it was a Canon 24/2.8. If it had been described as Mint/as-new, I still would have been happy.
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Josh,
I think I phrased that stupidly. I meant to point out there is more DOF with the 35mm compared with the 50mm... and now that I put it this way, it seems silly to make such an obvious point. :-)
scanning MF with v500...want the sides of film to show
in Medium Format
Posted
<p>Chrise,<br>
Thanks! I believe it was wide open (f/4), I recall the light getting dim in Amsterdam. It was my first time out with the 45mm, its a wonderful lens.</p>