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adnan

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Posts posted by adnan

  1. <p>Your V500 should be able to do this, just lay the negative flat on the bed and select "image guide" (that's what the option is on my older V700 to select the correct lens/focus distance). For this scan, I put a piece of ANR glass to see if it reduces/eliminates newton rings. Most of the time it works pretty well, not 100% though.</p>

    <p>(Pentax 67 with the 45mm)</p>

    <p><img src="http://monochromal.com/photo/images/20091209010601_img056.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="807" /></p>

  2. Bill,

     

    I have the EF 35/1.4L. It's practically welded to my camera. (~normal perspective on my 10D). Focus is very quick and super quiet (USM), construction is solid, pictures are as sharp as I need for my mostly handheld indoors/lowlight use. When used at large apertures, the quality of the OOF areas is goreous, if you're into that sort of thing. If I didn't need the extra stop, I would have loved the EF 35/2 which is much smaller and much less expensive and is said to be great optically as well.

  3. Its pretty cool cos it doesn't really look like a camera bag... more like a manbag which isn't much better :-) Mine's carries my 10D and spare lens.<P>

    Speaking of bags... I just got back from the mall, I wanted to buy my wife a Kate Spade purse for her birthday as I'd seen her checking them out. A decent sized leather one was $400. Ouch... then I read the tag inside. <i>Made in China</i>. I wonder how much of the $400 the lady who stitched it together will see. Anyone know what sort of salaries workers in Asian factories of these high end products make? Or am I looking at this situation in totally the wrong way? (I don't think a Kate Spade made in China would be any better or worse than one made in Italy).

  4. What is the process that places like mpix.com and others use? I'm familiar with color inkjet at home and for B&W, I've had a real good experience with an on-line lab that does true B&W prints on an enlarger from a digital file. Are the color prints from online places much longer lasting than inkjet for example?

     

     

    Thanks.

  5. I don't think you'll find a 28mm equiv f2 just yet.

    <p>

    The Panasonic described earlier seems like a good option. There's also the Sony T1. If its as fast as the <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/news/0402/04021106sonydscw1.asp"> W1 </a>, it could be fast enough to satisfy. The W1 will fit in your jeans pocket, but you probably don't want to walk around all day with it. The T1 will fit anywhere.

  6. I have a 20/1.8 and a Canon 24/2.8... Since I got the 24, I use it mostly. Not b/c of image quality, but mostly due to the size and weight advantage. I took it on a hike yesterday and wished I'd something wider on a lot of my shots. Same thing the other day when I was taking pictures at a small downtown area nearby. Depending on what you consider slice of life :), the 38-equiv may be a bit restrictive.
  7. Hi,

    I bought the 35/f1.4 a little while back for my 10D.

     

    Its obviously a great lens in that I've had no complaints about the quality, even wide open. In fact I use it at f1.4 most of the time. No scientific tests and haven't compared it to anything, but the reason I spent the extra cash was:

     

     

    1) To keep from having to go past ISO400 in indoor evening shots. (I use my camera about 65% in this situation and feel its a worthwhile purchase in that regard). To my eyes, this is a better solution than going to ISO800 and then having to use noise reduction software.

     

     

    2) To be able to get less depth of field for more background blur compared to the f2. Here's where I should have done more homework. Because its a 35mm lens, its not really easy to blur out the background unless your subject is fairly close to the camera... even at f1.4. (If you care about the 'quality' of OOF areas, this one does not dissapoint)

     

     

    A 35mm lens turns into a great 'normal' lens on these cameras. Whenever full frame digital becomes affordable (5 yrs?), I'll sell this and pick up a 50/1.4. Till then, I'm going to enjoy the speed, the lovely USM, and the sweet background blur, when you can coax it out, that is :-)

  8. Anyone tried out their services for B&W prints? The method sounds

    really interesting. From what I gathered from their website, it looks

    like they exchange the film carrier on an enlarger with a clear LCD

    panel that acts as the negative (and light can be shined through it).

    <p>

    Can anyone tell from experience if the results are indistinguishable

    from conventional wetroom prints?

     

    <p>

    From their website:

    <i>"We hand-print digital b&w prints directly from digital files using

    the DeVere Digital Enlarger. No inkjet, no interneg. Your files are

    printed directly onto the same silver-rich traditional photo papers

    that we use for making prints from negatives. This means you get the

    same fantastic print quality you were accustomed to getting from

    negatives before you went digital. Crisp clean whites, velvety grays,

    and deep rich blacks. No gray on gray..."

    <p>

    "Three: Yes. We use real photo paper. It is not inkjet paper, or

    any kind of special paper. We are printing digital files

    directly onto real honest-to-gosh silver gelatin fibre base & RC

    photo papers. In fact, we didn?t even have to buy any more

    paper when we installed the digital enlarger. We just started

    using the same paper we?ve been using all along. After

    fibre prints leave the enlarger base board they are still

    hand-processed in trays.

    <p>

    And... Four: No, we?re not kidding. This is the answer to your

    prayers."<p></i>

     

    <a href="http://www.bestlab.com/sanmig14.html"> website </a><p>

  9. Hi,

    Been shooting with a 256mb Sandisk compact flash for about a year on

    my 10D. I'm looking at getting a 2gb CF and am not sure what the

    different choices mean... Here's my short list from BH:

     

     

    2GB Sandisk Type 1: $147

     

    2GB Sandisk Ultra II: $190

     

    2GB Lexar 80X with WA: $199.95

     

    Basically, I'm happy with the speed of my current card, I don't really

    do sports photography or anything, but if $40 or $50 extra will buy me

    significat noticable speed, then I'll be willing to spring for it.

    Which should I go with and what's the difference?

    Thanks in advance!

  10. What is the main difference between the "Rolleiflex T" and the

    "Rolleicord" models? I used to have a Rolleiflex 2.8C, is there much

    difference in quality between this and the Rolleiflex T (besides the

    Planar vs Tessar lens)?

     

    I'm also looking at a Minolta Autocord in the same price range, how

    does this compare with the "T"?

     

    Lastly, I've heard you can drop in a piece of fresnel that you can

    pick up from Office Depot to improve the finder brightness. How well

    does this work... anywhere close to the Maxwell screen quality?

     

    Thanks in advance!

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