omar_torres

Never heard this one before!

FJ I misread your post regarding the underexposure. I thought you meant they came out nicely but then re-read your post and you said the background was underexposed. Well who knows what happened, remember this is print film. Too many variables to be able to correctly calculate correct exposure. But sure enough that's what the manual says! To underexpose a bit so that you don't overexpose the sum of the shots.

 

In regards to the ISO thing, that stays the same. I would only use ISO over-riding for low-light shows and the like for push processing. It's better (and easier) to just dial in comp with the thumb wheel. Rather than press the ISO button, change the ISO and shoot. It would conflict later when you use flash if you change the ISO because flash exposure is calculated with the ISO. For example, in the Rebel line, which lacks Flash exposure compensation; you have to take a reading with the correct ISO in Manual. Then change the ISO to under or overexpose but keep the same ap/shutter. Lotta work for just FEC! That's why I'm not shooting with a R2K anymore.

FJ, if the reading on your meter when you used M mode was -2, that means you compensated. Compensating means not using the recommended setting by the camera. So you compensated by underexposing all those shots 2 stops. So that's why they came out nice.

 

Btw, leave the ISO alone, the Canon system uses ISO information for other things like flash exposure too, so if one day you were using multiple exposures AND flash it would get a bit complicated.

 

I think in closing, if you're used to just using M mode and making it show -2 on the meter then keep doing that, you've been correctly underexposing all the time!

 

Regards

You always have to dial in compensation for multiple exposures. If you've used it before and didn't find bad shots, most likely the lab corrected them or it wasn't something really noticeable.

 

If you're in any of the creative modes except M, just use the thumb wheel to underexpose and it'll use the compensation for all the shots. When you're done, switch it back. In M, well just choose either a higher speed or smaller ap. In your Ti you also had to underexpose, but maybe the manual didn't explain it. My Rebel2k's manual has a table listing how much you should underexpose accordint to the number of shots, as does the Elan7e.

 

There's nothing like experimenting so happy shooting!!

God damn I've been lusting for this lens, you're making it worse!! :D

That first pic owned me.

It's happened to me with a 420EX and Elan7E. I looked at the back of the flash and the E-TTL light wasn't on. Cleaned the contacts and that was it.

I just checked carman's website and they're listing the Elan7E for $699?!? Check it out: http://prodshop.solutionxpert.com/cgi-bin/carmans.storefront/573295809/Catalog/3001

 

Anyway the main website is http://www.carmans.com

Niiice, I hadn't thought about it that way.

Hi Julian, I only referred to a technicality. That since FE is locked automatically to the active focusing point, you wouldn't need to do FEL if you chose your focus point correctly. Anyway, I've got my sister's camera now for a while, I'm hoping to convince her to sell it to me since she doesn't ever use it anymore, I just love it :D

Do you have CF8 enabled? I don't think FE lock works if you have it enabled since it automatically links Flash Exposure to the active focusing point.

The IR Focus Assist on the 420EX works with the Rebel 2000? I thought it didn't. If it does I'm going to run and get one ASAP.

Not to mention that the AA batteries last 2 times more than the ones the camera uses. According to the battery life tables on the instruction manual of my BP-200.

How is this calculated? I'd also like to know since I'm about to buy closeup filters/lenses for an assignment. I want to calculate magnifications for a 50mm 1.8 and a 75-300mm. What is the equation for this using both of Canon's Closeup lenses, the 250D and the 500D. Also, when you check out the Generic Brands, they have specifications like +1, +2, +4, +10; what do they mean?

Thanks for the responses! So I'm guessing I'll end up with both. One for the 50mm and another for the 75-300. Another question, I've seen how the general brand filters come in 1x, 2x, and 4x. The Canon ones, are they fixed in one of these settings or are they adjustable?

I'm looking for some close-up filters that will not degrade the

picture quality. I gave the Canon ones a look and they are more

expensive than the regular ones. I've got two questions regarding

these filters. Are they much better than regular filters? The second

is, Canon states that the 250D filter is better suited for shorter

lenses, while the 500D is better suited for longer telephoto lenses

from 70-300mm. Is there any truth to this? The lenses I have are the

28-80(which I'm soon replacing with a 28-105 thank god), a 50mm 1.8

and a 75-300mm usm. I will be getting the filters in 58mm size and

get a step-up filter for the 50mm.

 

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

The Rebel 2000 does not have a rewind-with-leader-out option. The only way you could do this is rewinding the whole roll and then taking the leader out with the tool to get it out (don't know what it's called). And swapping. Remember to write down the exposure number you were at. Then when you want to continue where you left off, just insert it and take pics with the lens cap on, in a dark place to make sure no astray light gets in, till you get to the desired exposure number.

 

Hope that helps!

I'm in the same boat. I own a Rebel 2000, the 28-80 kit zoom, and a 75-300 USM lens I bought later on for $150 (cheap). I want to upgrade a lot of things for different reasons, but on the body side of the upgrades I was stuck between the Elan7 (my sister has one), the EOS-5 and the EOS-3.

 

You need to figure out exactly what you want. Right now I need FEC, a spot meter and better feel. The Elan7 doesn't have a spot meter and it sucks just as mine in low light focusing. The EOS-5 would be perfect if it had E-TTL since I wanted to get an external flash and it also has a near-IR focus assist light. And then there's the EOS-3 which is just too expensive for me.

 

Once you define what you need you'll be able to make a better decision. But for the time being keep the Rebel I'd say.

The Rebel X does not have flash exposure compensation. Neither does the Rebel 2000 which I own. You would have to meter the scene and write down your readings. Say 1/125@f5.6 and then override (not sure of the Rebel X can override, never used one) the ISO to the compensation you want to apply to the flash. If you're using 400 speed film, and want -1 flash compensation youd have to set it at 800. Then go into M mode and dial in the 1/125@f5.6 ignoring what the meter says.

 

I asked this same question a while ago and this is pretty much what I was answered. I have the camera again (swapped with a friend who has a Nikon F80, great camera) so I will try it and see.