qtao

<p>primarily i am a Canon user althought i own a Nikon F3 with 50mm lens. i use a 20mm prime lens and a 40mm STM on a full frame digital camera. i have a 16-35mm and a 70-200mm lens, but rarely take them with me for travelling aroud within a city.<br>

on April, I went to visit Shanghai, China. i used a contax T2 point and shot film camera, which is a 38mm lens with 2.8 -16 apature, 8s -1/500s. with 100-400 iso film, it covers 90% of situations. rarely been noticed me, if so, they just want to look at that small camera, not me. it is time to snap them :).<br>

Calumet at Manhatton is open on Saturday and Sunday. I bought a used hassy 500CM there on a Saturday morning. they are open at 10 am. you can rent different kinds of cameras, lens, flashes, and tripod, including Nikon cameras and lens, check their website for renting lens and cameras.</p>

<p>I favor C-41 now.<br>

I got an used Jobo CPE2 with several magneted jogs, I have been doing all C-41 at home, quality is reliable, temperature control is not a problem with CPE2. at relative low temperature, I have less stress to control developing time.<br>

I usually buy a third party C-41 from B&H(20-25 USD/kit). one kit for 12-14 rolls of 135-36 exposure, or 8-10 rolls of 120, or 10-12 sheet of 4x5. also fun to use C-41 to develop slide films.</p>

 

<p>i got my DB from ebay, sinar emotion 75 LV (33MP) kit , 5800USD. Leaf CCD DB also good too.</p>

<p>Paul, thank you for pointing out the difference. now i think it is important if I want to upgrade to using a 503cw body with TTL. </p>

<p>I am not aware of different ISO versions of 503CW, although heard of it little. <br>

most digital backs dont provide usable ISO above 800, so any advantage of 3200 version of 503cw vs 1600 version of 503cw?<br>

Kodak film provides ISO 800 Black and white film now, so if using ISO 800 film, one can push up two stops.</p>

<p>I may contribute little bit different opinions.<br>

I bought a 500CM instead of 503CW. I paid attention to 503CW for almost a year, the kit sold from USD 1800 to 3400 USD, some included a nice motorized grip, even one seller included a meterted prism sold at USD 2700. so my view is that you need to take several months at least. if 2500USD wont sell soon, you have time to wait. I prefer to buy from an individual saler instead of 'a stock seller'.<br>

if you have potential to use both digital back and film, I think a 500CM or so may be a good start. I bought my 500CM kit (grid screen, CF 80, A12, WLF) for 895 USD. then I bought a used sinar emotion 75LV(33MP). currently on ebay, there is a new sinar emotion 75LV on sale. there will be more different brands of digital back appear on ebay, leaf, phase one, sinar, ...<br>

I gave up 503CW, mainly because with a digital back, I dont need many 503cw accesories. most time just carry a light meter, or just guess then look at histogram :). same time, I alway carry a film back, put in a roll of kodak E100VS as a backup.<br>

so my pont is to wait, and may just get a 500CM or 501C kit, try couple of films. then decide to have a 503CW or not. resale your 500 kit wont lost several hundred dollars, but resale 503cw might take a while. <br>

dont worry about ebay return policy, even you want to return a new kit, even saler say no return, ebay still on your side (some buyer just said sorry, my mistake, then ebay still favor buyer, I had such experience from several buyers).</p>

<p>I may contribute little bit different opinions.<br>

I bought a 500CM instead of 503CW. I paid attention to 503CW for almost a year, the kit sold from USD 1800 to 3400 USD, some included a nice motorized grip, even one seller included a meterted prism sold at USD 2700. so my view is that you need to take several months at least. if 2500USD wont sell soon, you have time to wait. I prefer to buy from an individual saler instead of 'a stock seller'.<br>

if you have potential to use both digital back and film, I think a 500CM or so may be a good start. I bought my 500CM kit (grid screen, CF 80, A12, WLF) for 895 USD. then I bought a used sinar emotion 75LV(33MP). currently on ebay, there is a new sinar emotion 75LV on sale. there will be more different brands of digital back appear on ebay, leaf, phase one, sinar, ...<br>

I gave up 503CW, mainly because with a digital back, I dont need many 503cw accesories. most time just carry a light meter, or just guess then look at histogram :). same time, I alway carry a film back, put in a roll of kodak E100VS as a backup.<br>

so my pont is to wait, and may just get a 500CM or 501C kit, try couple of films. then decide to have a 503CW or not. resale your 500 kit wont lost several hundred dollars, but resale 503cw might take a while. <br>

dont worry about ebay return policy, even you want to return a new kit, even saler say no return, ebay still on your side (some buyer just said sorry, my mistake, then ebay still favor buyer, I had such experience from several buyers).</p>

<p>with $8000, could invest a digital back (think of 16-bit color depth).<br>

recently, ebay sold two sinar emotion 75LV (33MP), one priced 5900, another priced 6800, both for hassy. sinar sells different adaptors for hassy, rollei, contax 645, ... (check their website and distributor site)<br>

go to google, type in "rolleiflex 6008AF + sinar emothion 75LV", see pic examples from a HongKong photographer (I found he also use large format digital scanning back, 5DII ...)</p>

<p>select 50L for personal favorite (there is hardly second time you will determind to add a 50L when you miss first time), select Costa Rica if family needs you.</p>

<p>I guess with use of an adaptor, No spot, central weight or evaluative meteringing work on EOS body. only average metering works.</p>

<p>I do 120 TMAX B/W self. from B&H, you can purchase 5 rolls of 120 TMAX, 20USD, Tmax-RS film developer stock solution 13 USD, premade Fixer solution 8USD, stop solution 5USD, 200Fluo 5USD.<br>

remember to wet film 1 min before change to film developer solution.<br>

you need a tank and spool for 120 film. and tap water.</p>

<p>I do 120 TMAX B/W self. from B&H, you can purchase 5 rolls of 120 TMAX, 20USD, Tmax-RS film developer stock solution 13 USD, premade Fixer solution 8USD, stop solution 5USD, 200Fluo 5USD.<br>

remember to wet film 1 min before change to film developer solution.<br>

you need a tank and spool for 120 film. and tap water.</p>

<p>WORLD FINANCIAL CENTER, large glass roof with water fountain and circular stairsteps (excellent natural light). <br>

call to check if still open to public for photography.<br>

this is not world trade center, but one block nearby.</p>

<p>Hi, I guess 5D and 500D pretty good enough to cover what will learn in a photograph course.<br>

if I want to switch to a nikon. I would try to expose same thing with both canon and nikon camera, decide what print I like. such as, shoot to one of following subjects, a red thing, or light blue ski, or deep blue ski, or white skin, or yellow skin, or brown skin, or dark earth, or brown earth, by own calculation on metering compensation. I don't look at histogram to do compensate. I meter main subject and do exposure compensation on main subject, then shoot. later adjusting light temperature on photoshop. by doing this, I dont feel difference on canon or nikon. and same mean to shoot film. <br>

then other factors may help me decide to swith or not, like brand name, body weight, style and so on.</p>

<p>Thanks Erik and all.<br>

I agree that probably a 1/3-1/2 stop change doesn't change much to a print picture. <br>

as Michael pointed out in his book, this 12% adjustment in camera cause the gray card look darker.</p>

 

<p>thanks for your answer.<br>

I think I should specify my question. Does this 12% modification affect spot metering or evaluative metering ? such as, I spot a red, or yellow, or green, or orange, and light or dark skin area, if I know there is a 12% modification in camera default setting, should I adjust, like add 1/3 stop or minus 1/3 stop or no change, as there is already 1/3 stop modification by my camera ?</p>

<p>Hi, I read 'the exposure field guide' by Michael Freeman recently. In the paragraph of 'gray card', Michael wrote, 'however, there is one slight problem, due to no good known reason-presumably the camera manufactures follow a different statndard for aesthetic reasons-most camera meters average to 12-13% not 18%'.<br>

so my question is, how do I adjust the result if gray is not measured as gray ?</p>

<p>I bought mint EOS3 and 1NRS. after trying, I like both and decide to keep them. between EOS 3 and 1NRS, I prefer later.</p>

<p>could you try a f16, 1/200 shot? move your full power flash closer to guitar, obtain a flash metering of f16, that shoot at f16, 1/200.</p>

<p>I used to use TS-E 90 on 20D. good for still life, also portrait. a lot of space playing around DOF with apature.</p>

<p>I bid a Leaf Valeo 11 with leaf 20G magazine, about 5 months ago from ebay. It is compatible with contax 645 without additional adpator. The current soft ware, leaf v.11 is compatible with PC Window(PC version downloadable from leaf website). I just came back from Shanghai yesterday. I only carried contax 645 with valeo 11 and one film back. the cable is 1394, can be connected to a desk computer.</p><div></div>

<p>I like ebay, I had 170 transactions on ebay. 3 bad experiences, but all with full amount refund. first talk to the seller, if problem not solved, go to dispute. I had one transaction, the camera lens is labled NO RETURN, but the glass condition is not as described, the seller refused to accept return. I contacted ebay, got this problem solved by full refund. <br>

I think ebay is a place to make good deal, but you need to be 1. carefully select what you are going to buy and the condition. 2. don't be upset when you get something not as you expect. 3. unless nothing can solve your problem, then go to contact dispute center. </p>

<p>1D use the same view-finder as in 1V, 1D is a 1.3 factor machine. wonder if they could do the same to 1.6 factor machine with some modifications.</p>

<p>shouldn't use a hand-hold meter to get the ambient light measurement first? this way, both camera eliminate the measurement difference.<br>

if a half frame camera obtain a f 4.0, 1/100, how can you use it on a full frame camera?</p>

<p>canon 1NRS. almost no shutter sound felt.</p>