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schopke

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Posts posted by schopke

  1. I have lost a considerable amount of weight. As a result my confidence is

    higher and I would like to try my hand at underwater photography! I have a

    Leica M and a Hasselblad 500cm and a 501cw. I am also thinking about

    buyinf a 35mm SLR camera. Does anybody know of any underwater

    housings for the Leica M or R or the Hasselblad? Does anyone know if there

    are underwater housings for a Canon EOS 1v of Nikon F5?

     

    Thank you in advanced.

  2. I have lost a considerable amount of weight. As a result my confidence is

    higher and I would like to try my hand at underwater photography! I have a

    Leica M and a Hasselblad 500cm and a 501cw. I am also thinking about

    buyinf a 35mm SLR camera. Does anybody know of any underwater

    housings for the Leica M or R or the Hasselblad?

     

    Thank you in advanced.

  3. I can see how the horse in the foreground is hard to distinguish. But you'll

    have to trust me in the original print you can clearly see it really is a horse.

    Kinda funny though that you see a fat guy bending over. LOL.

  4. I have a question for the forum. I covered a loan to a client. The loan was piad

    off today and I have some money I can spend on a new lens. I would like your

    advice.

     

    I currently have:

    50mm Summicron f2.0

    50mm Noctilux f1.0 and

    90mm Summicron f2.0

     

    I would like to purchase either:

    35mm Summilux f1.4 or

    75 Summilux f1.4

     

    I tend to like the telephoto lenses better. I wish I would not have purchased

    the 90mm and purchased the 75mm instead. The 75mm is what I would like

    but the 35mm somehow makes more sense. If you had either lens and money

    was not an object which would it be and why?

  5. I have owned the Noctilux for about one and a half years. I really like the lenses. I wish I would have bought the 75mm and the 35mmLux first. The size is BIG and HEAVY. But big and heavy really doesn't bother me. The focusing ring has a much greater swing or draw to it. This is to allow for more citical focus. This added draw make the lens slower to operate. I also have the 50mmCron. I would not sell Cron the in lieu of the Noctilux. But I think i would trade them both for the 50f1.4Lux. Simply because the 50Lux is the best of both worlds. I have to admit that there are many shoots I would have missed without the Noct.

     

    I am getting my MFA and last week I was working on a narrative, Part of the narrative had to be shot at night without the aid of flash. The scene had to appear very dark. I was using Ektachrome 1600 and pushed it to 3200. I was shooting HANDHELD @1/15sec, F1.0, and iso 3200. And my shots ROCKED. Without the Noctilux I would have had to put my camera on a tripod (sharpness was critical). The tripod would have made me too slow to compensate for the subjects moving. I asked the lab if I could push the film farther - they said the film would become unstable and unpredictable. For now I have the 50mmCron and the 50mmLux and I am very happy with them.

     

    PS. Put your Noctilux on your camrea and do not take it off for two to three months. This time hill help you get used to the lens' size and speed. You will like it. Buy it!

  6. If all you want to do is make prints I think digital is very nice.

     

    However, within the art community many people do not consider photography art. If you would like to produce prints for sale as art an even greater stigma is applied to digital prints. Of those who do consider photography art many still do not consider digital prints as "Fine Art".

     

    Furthermore, as silver photography MAY become an alternative process many already exhisting alternative processes already only can be accomplished in a wet darkroom. For example platinum, paladium, bromiol, etc. can only be achieved in a wet darkroom.

     

    I really do not pursue "art for sale" currently and many alternative process can be accomplished with a digital print (i.e. solvent transfers, acrylic lifts, etc.). I for one love alternative processes. It allows for greater artistic expression. A photographer takes the time to get proper exposure, pleasing composition, and sharp focus. A photographer should also take the time and comtemplation to decide how they want their pictures presented. Straight silver or digital prints are not always the best medium for the image a photographer wants to convey to the viewer.

     

    FOR ME IT IS NOT BETWEEN A DIGITAL OR A WET DARKROOM, IT IS BOTH!

     

    Cheers!

  7. I thought that many of your shot had good artistic and technical sense.

     

    #3 Nigerian Vacation had very good shadow detail as well as holding onto the highlight detail.

     

    John Channing's Rave Club, Part III have very interesting out of focus tonalities and texture. The diagonal and curved lines in this image really help invite the viewer to keep looking and exploring the image.

     

    #6 Gnlohcs, good eye. The snow on these water mains and the contrast and texture on the wall, good job.

     

    #7 Primary Colas, one of your strongest pieces. The feel of the paint, the brick coming through the paint, a piece of history, the image tells a story of a time past. Images of flat surfaces tend to appear flat. I know that kind of sounds simple, but this image shot from more of a dramatic angle to add depth and added detail in the brick MAY have improved this image. I like it though.

     

    Adout the person who was comparing some of your work to works of abstract painters. I would pay no attention to him. I think he was referring to #9, 10, 11, & 12. These are in no way abstract. Abstract is when a painter will paint something (ie. a human figure) and alter, distort, or change the image so that the image is not life-like but is still distinguishable as a representation of the original form. (This is an example of an abstract painting http://www.srhs.net/studlife/multicul/images/img08.html). Anyway I would not pay any attention to him. Keep up the hard work and keep pushing you visual aquity. Best of luck.

  8. "Response to Canham's new 6x17 back , opinions solicited"

    Officially it is not a back. It fits onto a back so it really is a film holder or magazine.

     

    I recently got mine. IT IS BEAUTIFUL. I have not run film through it yet. I am looking forward to the weekend. I have a date with a brick of 120 film. The craftmanship of the film holder is stellar. The fit and finish is first rate. Keith Canham did a really good job.

     

    I brought my 617 film holder down to a local photo shop who does not sell KB Canham equpiment because they wanted to see it. They were all very impressed. The on/off switch seems a little small and perhaps a little week - but only time will tell. It is a very simple design which is good.

     

    There is not a lot to complicate things. To load the film you attach the spool of film into the magazine like any ordinary 120 magazine. Then you depress an advance button and the film is advanced to the first frame. After taking the first shot you depress the advance button again and it advances the film to the second frame. After shooting the fourth frame, when you depress the advance button it automatically advances the film for removal from the magazine.

     

    There are four LED lights that light up to tell you what frame you are on. After the entire roll is shot and the film automatically advances all four LED light blink until the film is removed.

     

    When loading and unloading film there are two levers, one on each side, that get pivoted out and away. This seperates the base (the 5X7 plate that faces in toward the camera giving a light tight seal with the camera) from the film magazine component. You the load/unload the film and replace the magazine to its base. The entire system works well and I think you will be happy with it.

     

    Hope this is helpful.

  9. In reading Brian's response I would call Phillips and Canham. I am unfamiliar with Phillips. I do own a Canham and LOVE it. One reassuring quality about the Canham for me is that Keith Canham is available to speak with, with just one phone call. His 617 back was just announced about one week ago and I already have mine. I would not think his new metal 8X10 would be backordered. You can call Keith at 1-480-964-8624 or Rod at Photomark (1-800-777-6627) works closely with Keith. Good luck.
  10. Understand that the metal 4X5 does not have some of the advantages as the wood 4X5.

     

    To change formats to 5X7 it costs only about $300 more to purchase the additional back for the wood. You could then get the 6X17cm film holder and/or the 6X12cm film holder and have FOUR completely different film formats in one camera bag. Four different formats, one camera, one set of lenses and lens boards, one set of filters, a field dream come true!!!!

     

    You could also purchase the 8X10in or the 4X10in rear standards for the wood without buying a whole new camera. The compendium shade for the wood is very nice, just an all around GREAT camera.

  11. I would like some advice. I am going to buy a new lens in the next

    week. I am considering the:

     

    Super Angulon 90mmXL f5.6, $2,481 on sale for $1,295

    Super Symmar 110mmXL f5.6, $1,669

     

    I currently have a KB Canham camera with a 4X5 and 5X7 back. I am

    also planning on buying the 6X17 film holder.

     

    I currently have an Apo-Sironar-N 210mm f/5.6 and Sironar-N 135mm

    f/5.6. The 135 will not cover a 6X17 or my 5X7. The 90 and 110 will

    both give enough coverage. I was thinking about buying 110mmXL but

    due to the sale on the 90mmXL I am now leaning toward it. Can anybody

    offer some good advice on which one to buy.

  12. I find it troubling that people continually try to persuade people from obtaining MFA's "UNLESS they are going to TEACH". From the circle of influence that I find myself, it is readily acknowledge that obtaining education is a positive and beneficial persuit. I understand that SOME people equate an education with an occupation or pursuit of money. Though this may be some people's limited pursuit, I would caution you from abopting this philosophy.

     

    Education is a noble and worthwhile pursiut. Personally I believe that the more education a person has the better. It give people further refrence, helps them become more well rounded, provides a larger base of knowledge to build upon in the future, etc.

     

    Perhaps people may say that I got this job, finished this project, or I accomplished this accolade, and I didn't need an MFA to do it. However, they could not say that (IF THEY HAD AN MFA)my MFA was of no help and was completely unnecessary.

     

    How could anyone WHO HAS AN MFA say that the added knowledge and perspective that an MFA brings did not help them professionally or personally. If the MFA was not building upon, broadening the education, craft, and artistic expression of an individual, then nobody would ever complete an MFA program. I is a worth while pursuit.

     

    I am currently pursueing an MFA and it is well worth my time. I got a BS in psychology in 1993. I went back to school in 1998 to get a BFA. It took me two years to complete.

     

    I am now pursueing an MFA. I am married with two children. Believe me, it is harder to pursue an MFA with a family. Every member of my family is having to sacrafice a little. My wife and I both feel pursueing an MFA is more than worthwhile (and not harmfull to my children in any way. I often include my children in my education, taking them to classes and including them in projects. I AM NOT GOING TO TEACH! I really hope you continue on for an MFA if that is what you want. don't give in to the cynics.

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