chris_chen

I would've run like HE// after taking the photo, as I would be the

next to aim at.

Thanks FWB, I'll have to check that when I get home, I only have the

M6 w/me.

"'Tis Better to ask for Forgiveness than to ask for Permission"

<p>

Good one John, but don't get me started on another "Ten Commandments"

thread! 8*)

<p>

BTW, what model LTM was that? It also has a self timer.

Good point the mercury batteries.

<p>

I always thought the swing-out meter a Rube Goldberg solution; more

moving parts. Although, the CL I had, and had stolen, produced good

results.

<p>

The vibration of the arm would be less than a mirror, but against all

philosophy of a Leica. I don't have a clue why buyers are paying

current prices, I wouldn't, same goes for the CL. I got my mint

w/40 'cron for $450 CDN.

We were in Edmonton, Canada on our way to an assignment in Malaysia when I saw/handled a MINT! screw mount Leica camera (don't remember the model, but had sep. windows for focusing and framing) and a collapsable 50 'cron. The interesting thing was a mistake in the engraving on the lens: f2 was there twice, one in the place where 2.8 should've been. Together with case $600 CDN.

<p>

"wha'd'ya think hun?"

<p>

"Nah, you have too many cameras as it is"

<p>

The camera was gone the next day when I went alone to look at it again. Funny thing is, she is too.

<p>

Another slow day in St. Looey, gettin' the job done though, it's lunch time.

It's in my small bag w/M6 & 35 or 50 'cron, so I meter w/M6 and shoot

with both. The front flap of the bag holds my Minolte Flashmeter

III. I carry an M3 with the 35 or 50 that is not on the M6 in a

separate bag solo, and occasionally the 90 TE in my pocket, that's it.

<p>

I have the 21 SA, but it gets less-and-less use. I would use it more

if I can find that darn rear cap. Basically, it's "welded" to my M4

for that reason, and doesn't get carried.

OK, I got the M6 type vulcanite pre-cut for the rear door from Leica last night.

<p>

I have an M2 which was missing its rear door vulcanite, rest intact.

<p>

I have an M3 which was recovered by DAG with M6 type vulcanite, but since the rear door vulcanite was intact he(she) left it alone. So, I took off the door and put it on the M2. I don't anticipate a problem unless you all tell me otherwise.

<p>

The new vulcanite went on the old M2 door, which now matches the M3.

<p>

BTW, if anyone orders this from Leica, specify which M it will go on: the cutout for the M6 ASA dial is LARGER than the non-metered M's. The chrome outer ring around the M3 (formerly M2) reminder dial is exposed; doesn't look bad.

I shoud've reported three:

<p>

Yashica

I was tempted ONCE. I found a set cheap. I was after a high

performance auto camera. Two things made me walk away:

<p>

Manual focus did not give me the feedback I wanted; seeing physical

movement in the finder.

<p>

The finder itself; tunnel vision.

Jack,

The comment of not being able to improve performance comes from

Hasselblad themselves, specifically Kornelius Fleischer (sp?); it's

on their web-site. It is also within Photo.net MF forum. It seems

Hassy went to enviro-friendly processes to produce glass that did not

involve lead or arsenic. While true, Hassy claims a better/stronger

shutter and anti-reflectant internal surfaces, OPTICALLY, it wasn't

improved:

<p>

Lower central performance in return for better edge performance. If

I remember correctly.

<p>

As to price: I use the version previous to the CF (which I also have)

because I find it a slightly more compact all metal construction; and

it has a self timer for under $2000. It is one cool camera.

Sorry,

<p>

Forgot to add:

<p>

The individual threads were black. So, it seems rubberization is done before weaving (?)

My M4 shutter curtain recently came uncrimped. I examined some of the threads that came loose (ripped away) and the material seemed to be made of silk. The threads were VERY fine and seemed VERY strong.

<p>

Did Leitz/Leica use silk for the shutter? Are they still silk? If not, what do you think its made of?

<p>

I think silk would be a good material for this application - strong and light.

Does anyone besides me carry along a MF camera as part of your regular travel kit?

<p>

I do, it's the famous hasselblad SWC CT*, which BTW Hassy DID NOT improve in its latest new release!!!

<p>

Seems that the design is so good that it can't be improved on.

<p>

This was first designed in 1954! So, "old" lens design is not necessarily obsolete.

<p>

It does have a steep learning curve, though.

<p>

I'm keeping ALL of my chrome lenses, thank you.

I use ROR; it's my once-a-year/new used/disaster lens/filter cleaner.

<p>

Works well; no swirls; smells of ammonia.

<p>

Works w/toothbrush on exterior focus mounts; gets gunk out of the

grooves.

I read this thread earlier. Did anyone mention using a flash when

testing lenses? It would freeze any motion and up the contrast,

especially of newsprint.

Mark,

<p>

The thing about buying user M's is that they probably need a $300

CLA. I got an Exc. (bright marks, no dents; I added one by myself,

though) that was CLA'd last year. So, I payed <$200 plus the CLA

bill, which I have. The wax seal is marked "92", which is DAG.

<p>

As for a lens, I bought a black 50 'cron no focus tab for $290;

perfect glass, minimal normal wear on the rings.

<p>

So, a new kit for $900.

Oh,

<p>

It's black nylon, top loading not counting the slim internal pockets,

and cheap $25.

<p>

I may buy another and have one kit w/SWC and M6 + 35 or 50 'cron

<p>

AND

<p>

M4 + 21 SA, M3 + DR + 90 TE + meter

<p>

two diff. kits depending on the app.

I have a Classic M6 from the first batch of 1000 and have had ZERO problems with it since I got it second hand in '89. The DR fits and works on it fine. The SA blocks the meter cell.

<p>

This is about the meter diodes, however. When I SLIGHTLY open/close the aperature from the correct, evenly illuminated diodes, the brightness of one or the other varies continuously. It seems VERY sensitive to even small changes. However, it doesn't work with intermediate shutter speeds; probably something to do with electrical contacts not being continuous in the shutter dial (?). I didn't try all the intermediate speeds, however.

<p>

I think the Leica brochure stated that one could over/under expose the frame by 1/2 stop by varying the intensity of the diodes, such that one is less bright than the other, keeping both on.

<p>

Does the M6/7 TTL with the center confirmation dot have this capability?

<p>

I for one LIKE IT.

Victor,

<p>

Please see my post in a thread begun 03/19/02:

<p>

"Suggestions Needed - Re-Designing M Classics Bag"

<p>

I found a PERFECT M bag.

<p>

Eagle Creek...forgot the name...thought it discontinued...saw it at a

Wolf Photo last Sat...forgot the name.

<p>

PERFECT for one SWC and M + 50 'cron., OR, with a second padded

velco'd divider, three M's w/non-tele lenses mounted OR two M's +

lenses AND two teles (or four shorter lenses or film or meter.) I've

been using one for more than five years.

<p>

It comes with two D-rings so you can pick your own straps. I picked

two laptop computer case straps w/C-shaped pads; one over the

shoulder, one around the waist; not too tight as to distort the bag;

tight enough to keep the bag in place; no swinging around.

<p>

Approx. 9" long, 6" tall, 4" wide

<p>

EASY AND FAST

Andrew,

<p>

I think the brightness is related to magnification: 0.58 brighter

than 0.72, and 0.72 brighter than 0.85, and 0.85 brighter than 0.91

(M3); add a 1.25X magnifier and the viewfinder gets darker still.

This assumes the exit pupil are equal. From the front the pupil

shape on my various M2/3/4/6 look slightly different. The M3 is

slightly darker than the other 0.72's

Ben,

<p>

It's too late for you, but for the others, I would recommend Sherry

Krauter over DAG. I bought an M3 that was CLA'ed and recovered by

DAG. He(she) did not replace the screws and the new M6 style

vulcanite was not fit-up properly; I had to glue some of it up

myself; and the bill (for previous owner) was $490! I paid $650 for

the M3.

<p>

Sherry got my M4; replaced all of the screws she(he) touched and did

a better job than DAG for $240, no recovering.

Thanks Roger,

<p>

That's another great lesson. But, it works for one second and faster

speeds, no?

What company actually makes the flash, Metz? If so, what is their

equiv. unit and how much do they charge, $45?

<p>

What is the guide no. for the SF20?

<p>

Sorry to chime in; I think you know my position.