crowdspotting

June 28, 2016

Hi Dietrich,

I had a 150HS until yesterday (just sold it, but I was testing it) and mine uses 4AA batteries, two in each of two compartments on the back of the camera.

In each compartment, the batteries were placed facing opposite ways. If I recall, the first battery in is with the + pole (the "nub") facing downward towards the bottom of the camera. The second battery in is facing with the + pole upwards (towards the viewfinder.)

The other compartment was loaded the same way.

If that doesn't work for you, then I probably have the poles reversed. That's easy to test, of course.

Jeff

April 4, 2013

It just occurred to me that I never had to ship my Noblex to Canada when I was using Siggi for repairs and maintenance. I shipped it to Washington, where he would pick it up. For me, it still cost more to ship to WA than to ship it (or drive it) to PCW, down the road.

April 4, 2013

Patrick,

I've used both Siggi and Bob at PCW several times each over the last five or six years, to service my three 135s. I just added a 150, too.

I'm sure that they both check in here from time to time, so it is important to me that any reader understands that I am just sharing notes here, not making A/B comparisons. Just stuff to consider:

<ul>

<li>Both have the expertise (or access to it) required to do a great job. I've never been unsatisfied with either. </li>

<li>Let's face it, these are your only two options!</li>

<li>I used Siggi for several years until I realized that PCW services Noblex cameras, too. I used to think that that Siggi was the only person in the world that could help me. I live in Chicago, and one day I discovered that PCW is less than 10 miles from my house! Solely out of convenience, I switched from Siggi to Bob. </li>

<li>In reality though, both of them usually take a minimum of a month to complete any servicing or repair. Sometimes longer. In Siggi's case, the time spent is probably because he is busy picking up the camera at a PO box, then taking it to the tech for repair. When it's done, he does the reverse. He travels a bit to pick up the camera and then ships it himself.</li>

<li>In PCW's case, I speculate that the their completion time is because they sometimes have a backlog of work for other customers. They repair more than just Noblex cameras. He services my Mamiya 6MF, lenses, all kinds of gear. Trustworthy repair shops are rare here in Chicago, so I imagine that they do a good amount of biz.</li>

<li>In other words, it's just less risk of transit damage to take it to PCW myself.</li>

<li>If I understand correctly, PCW bought all of the remaining parts from the Dresden factory. I know that Bob always has the parts for my 135 models. He recently told me that parts for the 150 models are becoming very difficult to find. I don't know where Siggi gets his parts. I know that he is able to make his own, in some cases.</li>

<li>Siggi has made several diopter lens attachments for me, so that my Noblex cameras can focus closer. He even made one to meet my own magnification specifications.</li>

<li>Pricing is generally the same for both. For me, shipping to Canada added some, but not a lot, of cost. </li>

<li>Siggi uses a tech for his work. He's always in touch via email and easy to reach, and is great at customer service. But someone else actually repairs your camera.</li>

<li>At PCW, the owner (Bob) IS the technician. That means when you talk to him about your camera issues, there is much less to lose in translation. However, that also means that he's doing all of the work and is more "heads down" than being on the phone with you giving you status updates.</li>

</ul>

Is this helpful at all? I feel like I could have written all of this in one sentence. Sigh...

Jeff

March 17, 2013

Just saw your follow up post. That has happened on my 135 versions several times before, and in each case, Bob has replaced the drive wheel. But again, I would refer to him because I do not know what adjustments were made in addition to replacing the wheel. Probably not the answer you wanted to hear, but the important part is that a properly functioning Noblex will spin every time you press the shutter. In multiple exposure mode, it will spin strongly and continuously until you take your finger off of the shutter button. My 150 swings with such strength that it actually wants to wobble in my hands.

I use my Noblex in the street, so I learned quickly that the Noblex cameras are very quirky, finicky and delicate instruments, but when they're working properly, you can't beat them for quality and effect.

Jeff

March 17, 2013

Patrick, The drum should rotate no matter what, in all situations. I have a 150S and there's no way to make it not rotate, if it's working correctly. I have a 150S and three 135 models and they all operate this way, but I can't be 100% sure about the other 150 series models.

I assume you've tried all shutter speeds? On my 135U, when it's set to 1 second, the drum moves so slowly that it is hardly noticeable.

There is a rubber drive wheel inside that rests against the drum and turns it when making an exposure. In my experience with my 135 Noblex cameras, this can become misshapen over time (especially if the camera is not used and the wheel forms a flat spot while at rest for long periods). The typical result is that exposures are uneven as the eccentric wheel wobbles around, slowing and speeding up the drum. Your problem sounds like there is no engagement of the wheel and drum at all.

It certainly could be something else, of course.

I'd contact Bob Watkins at Precision Camera Works in Niles, Illinois USA. It's about 10 miles outside of Chicago. He's a great guy and a solid expert on these camera. He has an amazing Noblex parts inventory and is always helpful.

http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/

Jeff

March 22, 2012

I think that the reason is simple. I have been using Nikon film bodies for decades and buying the best Nikkor AI-S prime lenses that they made.

When Nikon came out with their first digital SLRs, they had the smaller sensor and the old AI-S lenses were not desireable. The lenses that I owned had become worth much less than the amount that I had paid for them.

When Nikon released their first full-frame digital camera, all of the sudden my primes were worth more than I'd originally paid for them. At one point, my 50mm f 1.2 AI-S was worth 4X what I paid for it. Other lenses were selling at similar multiples.

I'm new to the Leica cult (sorry, I'm still skeptical, but I coming 'round... I keep repeating The $7K was worth it, the $7K was worth it) and unfortunately did not learn from my own observations about my Nikon gear. I waited to buy an M9 for more than a year after they came out. By then, M lenses were at their current pricing levels.

I currently own six Leica lenses and I'm hoping that when Sony or Fuji or Panasonic (or whomever) comes out with a full-frame sensor camera, my M lenses will be worth even more. The Leica legendary status withstanding, the demand for these excellent lenses should only grow when all of the sudden there is a much greater number of people who own full-frame point and shoots.

jeff

January 6, 2011

To every one on this thread, thanks for the excellent advice. This will make my time there more productive and less stressful.

Jeff

December 29, 2010

I will be spending a few weeks in Dubai in March 2011, and would like to know what the generally accepted norms are for making photographs or people in the street and other public places. My photographs are usually of crowds, and I use a wide-format Noblex, which is an odd-looking device but has the advantage of avoiding that "pro" look that can raise suspicion in some cities. Generally I go unnoticed.

About Dubai, I am wondering:

<ul>

<li>Are there are any laws that I should know about, regarding public photography</li>

<li>Are there are customs or cultural considerations (for example, is shooting a particular subject considered "rude?" Must I ask before making a photograph of a person?)</li>

<li>Are there are security concerns about theft, etc. (beyond using common sense)</li>

<li>Are there any places that are universally off-limits to photography?</li>

</ul>

Thanks in advance for your help! Jeff Phillips Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net Terms of Use.

July 14, 2010

Aurthur,

My apologies for misreading your posting. Your input and experience with these cameras is greatly appreciated.

The rewind button is a sort of "combination" disk. It's permanently attached to the camera. It has both the spring-loaded mechanism that holds 120 reels in place, as well as the center button which allows 35mm film to be rewound. From the pictures that I can see online (such as 6MF cameras for sale/sold on eBay), all 6MFs have the rewind button.

So, I am agreement with your theory that something was changed on the camera later on, perhaps in a repair. I do think that a repair person probably replaced the rewind button "combination disk" with a flat disk from a regular 6 model. The reason that I think that this is likely, instead of the top cover being replaced, is that the viewfinder has the extra lines for the 6x4.5 and panoramic format adapters, which of course only appear on the 6MF model.

Thanks Aurthur for your help and input. And to the others that replied, I thank you as well.

Jeff

July 11, 2010

Hello Arthur,

I am interested in knowing more about your explanation, "In the 6MF model, one such disk (that shown by Jeff) can be retrofitted later with the button assembly of the 35mm film panorama kit."

The 35mm panorama kit does not include any kind of button assembly that the user must install on the camera. See attached picture.

All of the pictures of other 6MF cameras I have been able to find online show the rewind button in place, as though it was installed in the factory.

This is truly a strange mystery and I am beginning to think that my 6MF was repaired at some point before I owned it, and perhaps the repair person used a spool centering pin from a Mamiya 6 by mistake, instead of the rewind button assembly. This is the only explanation I can think of...

Jeff<div></div>

July 11, 2010

Thanks Mike. I've got the 35mm pano kit, and it comes with its own rewind crank that you attach to the bottom of the camera.

When you reach the end of the roll of 35mm film, you press the "rewind button" and then use the crank just like you would on a regular 35mm SLR or rangefinder.

The problem with one of my 6MF cameras is, there is no rewind button!

If your cameras are Mamiya 6 models, as you mention above, then you won't have the rewind button. Only the 6MF model has the rewind button, and thus capable of using the pano adapter.

Jeff

July 11, 2010

One camera is 314326, and the other is 315405.

It would be easy to conclude that Mamiya changed the camera at the 315,000 mark. However, being that it was sold as a "multi-format" camera (and the earliest manuals that I've found all contain a reference to the panoramic adapter, and show the rewind button in the photographs) it just doesn't make sense.

Of course, the "multi-format" feature also included a 6x4.5 mask, so it's conceivable that the first 6MF cameras were produced without the panoramic adapter option and were later modified once the adapter became available.

I would have expected this to be mentioned somewhere though, since there are a ton of reviews, discussions and other materials available online.

Jeff

July 11, 2010

John, there are rewind buttons on MF cameras (see the camera on the right, in the picture above). The panoramic adapter for the 6MF allows you to use 35mm film instead of 120.

July 11, 2010

Hello all,

I have two Mamiya 6MF cameras and have discovered an odd difference between them that I cannot explain. I am hoping the group may help me find the answer.

One of my 6MF cameras has a rewind button on the base plate, near the battery compartment. The other 6MF does not have this rewind button, but rather a flat metal cover that cannot be pressed.

This is important to me because I use the panoramic adapter, and the camera without the rewind button will not allow me to rewind the film once I reach the end of a roll.

Has anyone had this issue before? Does your 6MF have rewind button, or not?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

- Jeff

P.S. Both cameras are in the 315XXX serial number range, and it appears they were built about 1000 units apart.

June 14, 2010

Hello Charlotte,

I have been using the 35mm Noblex cameras for several years now, to make pictures for a project called Crowdspotting at <a href="http://crowdspotting.blogspot.com">http://crowdspotting.blogspot.com.</a>

I have not owned a Widelux, but at one time I considered buying one, so I rented one. I also used the Horizon. I decided on the Noblex for several reasons, which I will list here. I am sure there are Widelux users out there who prefer them to any other brand, so take the following information as simply my individual experience. There is also a camera called a Widepan, which is similar. Also there is the Roundshot/Spinshot and the Gobuscope cameras, which fascinate me but I don't have any experience with them. Not much has changed since 2007, since I think that the Horizon is the only swing-lens panoramic camera still in full production.

<ul>

<li>The Widelux, Horizon and Noblex cameras work on the same principle. They expose film on a curved plane, through a slit that covers a lens that rotates.</li>

<li>The Widelux is spring-loaded. The Noblex is motorized and uses batteries. Some users report that the Widelux will produce dark bands on your film at certain shutter speeds, because the spring cannot turn the turret smoothly while it is "getting up to speed." The Noblex avoids this by using a regulated motor and by spinning the turret one half rotation so that it is up to a steady speed by the time the film is exposed.</li>

<li>The Horizon is a lower-end model than the Noblex or Widelux. The lenses are not as sharp as the competition. You can see this yourself by visiting Flickr and searching for Horizon, Noblex, etc. and looking closely at the technical quality of the images produced by each camera. Of course each person posting their images may use different scanning techniques or post-production tools, so it's not a scientific comparison. But with a large sample set on Flickr, you can see the overall quality difference when you look at enough sets.</li>

<li>I have a 135U and a 135S. The "U" model has slower shutter speeds, as slow as 1 second. The "S" only goes to 1/60, if I recall. I shoot on the street, so I don't need slow shutter speeds, usually.</li>

<li>The Noblex cameras are no longer made. They are available on eBay though, it seems like a new one is popping up for sale every day.</li>

<li>The 150 and 175 models are for 120 size film. These are big, heavy monsters and in my opinion not suitable for handheld photography like Jeff Bridges did. </li>

<li>My Noblex cameras have been expensive to maintain. I have to send them to (what used to be) Noblex Canada, and so far I've spent between $300 and $500 per year on EACH camera to keep them in operation. Keep in mind that I use mine almost every day, so it may be an unusual situation.</li>

<li>Make sure you have a way to process and print/scan your negatives. The Noblex (and Widelux) negatives are more than twice as long as a standard 35mm frame, and so you must process the film yourself, or find a good lab. When I first started using mine, I would shoot color film and take the film to Walgreens for processing, because it was cheap - $2 to process the film. However I always had to beg, beg and beg them to NOT cut the negatives, because their machine cuts at what it thinks is the standard 35mm frame. Obviously that means cutting your pano frame in half! For the last few years I've been only doing B/W, so I shoot TMAX 400 and process the film myself at home.</li>

<li>Consider how you'll print them. If you have a darkroom, you'll need to mask off a 6x8 or 6x9 carrier or file out a 35mm carrier. I don't print them traditionally any longer, so I scan mine with a Nikon medium-format scanner, one frame at a time. If you don't have a scanner or a darkroom, check around to find a pro lab that will work with you to print your negatives. It's getting harder and harder to find labs that will mess with this, without charging an arm and a leg!</li>

<li>Lastly, there are a lot of ways to make panoramic images digitally these days, using digital cameras and stitching multiple images together in camera or in post-production, or by using digital cameras that have built-in panoramic functionality. </li>

<li>I am not sure what your main reason is for wanting a swing-lens camera, but for me it was because of the quality of the imagery that I could produce in a single shot (vs. stitching), the ability to stay true to my commitment to film, and the look of the cylindrical panoramic view that is produced by these cameras (zero vertical distortion if the camera is held perfectly level). Also, the Noblex 135 cameras are small enough to be hand-held, and that was a requirement for me, because as I mentioned, I carry a Noblex with me everywhere and shoot without much planning.</li>

</ul>

I hope this general information helps. I'll post more information and opinion later, if I think of anything else.

Jeff http://crowdspotting.blogspot.com

February 20, 2010

<div>

00Vosf-222353684.jpg.154624d1c0a2c5a339b234a61273ed93.jpg

</div>

February 20, 2010

Arond,

I use a Noblex 135U and 135S for doing street pictures. It's all I've been doing for the last two years. I find that it's the best option of all, as it has a differentiating "look" without being gimmicky, it is among the sharpest options available to me, and it looks the least like a "regular" camera, so people seem to be less alarmed when I photograph in public places.

Both cameras are typically sold for around $700 to $100US on the used and auction markets, sometimes for much less. I recently bought a mint condition ProSport for $500, which lacks the bubble levels, but I bought a $5 bubble level and glued it on the top of the camera.

If you are interested in seeing some of the work, check out http://crowdspotting.blogspot.com.

Best regards,

Jeff Phillips

February 20, 2010

Antonio,

Yes, the camera is configured correctly. Sounds like that M. Hayward is experiencing the same thing and basically is confirming my suspicion that the grip is NOT fully compatible (as Mark also suggests).

Thanks for your responses!

Jeff

February 19, 2010

Hello,

I am still struggling with a frustrating issue with my Zeikos NBG300N battery pack. I am looking for someone who has a D700 and this pack, who can answer the following question:

When using AA batteries with the Zeikos pack, and they become weak, does your D700 switch over to the internal battery automatically?

Mine does not. When the AA batts become exhausted, the camera simply fails to fire. and I get an "Err" in the LCD. If I pull out the battery tray of the grip, everything works fine again.

Zeikos told me to return the grip to them for replacement, which I did, but the new unit that they sent to me has the exact same problem. I am beginning to suspect that the grip simply can't do the job. My D700 is new, but since I don't have another D700 to try this on, I can't be 100% sure that it's the grip. In theory the problem could be my D700.

I found a couple of reviews online stating that people have had this problem with their D300 cameras, but I've yet to find someone with a D700 who can confirm this issue.

Anyone had symptoms similar to mine?

Thank you for your help,

Jeff

February 19, 2010

I wanted to follow up on my earlier posting about the Zeikos grip. As mentioned above, when the AA batts in the grip became exhausted, my D700 would fail to operate, and I'd get an "Err" on the LCD. On the "real" Nikon MB-10, power automatically switches to the D700's internal battery when the grip batteries are dead.

Zeikos told me to return the unit to them for repair. I sent it back, and received a replacement. The replacement did not solve the problem, and the behavior is exactly the same. I've since noticed a few other reviews online that indicate that the Zeikos unit simply cannot emulate the battery-switching capability of the MB-10.

I am disappointed with this grip, and even though it was only $70, with shipping and returning it and the frustration, I'd have been better off getting the MB10.

Jeff

January 27, 2010

Shun, thank you for the offer of help, it is very generous of you.

I've done a bit more troubleshooting, and hopefully this information will help someone who comes across it in the future.

Leaving the Zeikos grip on the camera, I unlatched the battery cover and slid out the battery holder. In other words, the grip had no batteries in it but was still attached to the D700. The AIS lenses suddenly began to work perfectly on the camera.

Then I noticed that the battery level indication indicator for the Zeikos pack had dropped to half.

I then put a 28mm "D" lens on the camera, and it would still NOT work.

So, the problem is NOT with AI-S lenses, but rather seems to be with the Zeikos grip, when the batteries are low. It doesn't seem to be switching over to the internal battery when the grip batteries run low.

In the D700 Shooting menu, I've selected "MB-10 First" as the battery order. I assume that on your "real" MB-10, that it gracefully switches over to your D700 battery when the AA batteries in your grip are exhausted.

My Zeikos grip does not appear that it can automatically switch over. This sounds odd to me that this hasn't been discussed before in the forums. Like you said, it is probably defective.

Thanks for your help.

Jeff

January 27, 2010

Shun, thank you for your reply, and yes you are correct. I should have mentioned that in my first posting.

Without the grip, the AI-S lenses work fine on the D700 body. Obviously that means that the grip is the problem, but what I am wondering is if it known that AIS lenses won't work, or if my grip is defective.

I was hoping that someone with a D700, the grip, and an AIS lens could let me know if they are having the same issue.

jeff

January 27, 2010

Hello all, I am using a D700 with a Zeikos BG-300 Battery Grip. There are several reviews on photo.net about this product, and generally speaking I am happy with it.

However, I have some AI-S prime lenses such as a 105mm 1.8, 35mm 1.4, etc. and when the grip is attached and I mount these lenses to the D700, the camera shutter clicks but does not record an image. Next, "Err" flashes on the LCD. "D" and "G" lenses work just fine. Anyone had problems like this? I'm not really looking for a debate about why third-party grips are inferior - rather I am just trying to understand why and how a grip (Nikon or third-party) might be incompatible with AIS lenses, or if my unit is defective. Thanks a lot for your help! Jeff Phillips

November 29, 2009

Connor, It seems like several people above are in agreement, but I'd also like to add a few comments about using a swing lens camera for street.

I own two Noblex 135 cameras and I use them to make street images, exclusively. When the shutter speed is set to 1/250 or 1/500, the turrent spins very rapidly and the elapsed time between when you press the shutter button to the end of the completed exposure is one second or less.

For me, it is a very manageable lag and I've enjoyed using this format for street photography. Some recent images can be found at <a href="http://superwide.blogspot.com">http://superwide.blogspot.com</a>

You can usually get a Noblex 135S for under US$700, and the fully-featured 135U for $1000 or less.

Jeff

June 13, 2009

I don't think that it's possible to start at frame 5. Are you sure that one of the manuals you were looking at didn't have a typo? "5" and "S" are easily interchanged, especially in the translated versions of the manual.

Regardless, you start at "S," not "5."

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