michael_bradigan

Mmm...Last week - hope that's ok.<div></div>

Yes. I use a red filter with Chromagenic B&W films and love the result.

No..yes...wait...no, definitely not...hmm maybe...no, no way...I mean...Damn.

Parasko - don't know if AE is important to you, but keep in mind that the R2A has it, while the regular "R2" does not. Don't want you opening up the box and getting dissappointed.

I would second the Bessa recommendation. I got a used Bess R with a 35mm lens for about $400 used, and it's great. If I bought a new Bessa, I would go for the R2A or R3A for the AE. Great little cameras.

 

Gotta warn you though Parasko - it will just make you want a Leica. If you can afford one, get it. If you don't like it - you can sell it back for equal or (occasionally) more than you paid for it.

 

Good luck.

LMFAO!!!!! That's the funniest thing I've heard all year. (it's been slow around here lately.)

Love it Ray! Captures a moment I remember well.

Waiting @ LAX<div></div>

My goodness that's big. Let me try that again. Sorry about that.<div></div>

Stairs.<div></div>

I've only just started the combo, but I've found that Delta 400 in T-Max, 1:4, 7 mins @ 68 degrees can bring wonderful results. Great shadow detail, good tonality. My previous experience was with Tri-X & Rodinal, which I liked...but D400 is swiftly taking over the #1 spot.

Thank you Vineet. That's what drew me to the picture as well. I liked the sense of motion and receding into the distance that the whole thing implied. I appreciate your comment.

Thanks Alex. I appreciate it. Horrible scan, I'm afraid...but I like the pic.

Waiting for the light - Okayama.<div></div>

The path I used to travel.<div></div>

Sorry...let me try that again.

Not a leica, I'm afraid...though one can always dream.

I second Conni's answer. I leave it on absolutely all the time. I had almost forgotten that it actually comes off the camera. Why would you want it to? :)

Since you are shooting wet places, will you be using a polarizing filter to reduce glare from wet foliage, etc? If so, I would recommend Hoya's "Moose Filter" (named after wildlife photog. Moose Peterson), or some other brand's combination polarizer/warming filter. I find the Moose filter to work wonders in wet, overcast scenes.

The only disadvantage, in my book is convenience. Using step-up rings means that you can't use your lens cap...you can't quickly take off that lens and swith it out. First you have to take off the step-up ring, then put the lens cap on, then put the filter in the case (after, most likely, taking it off the step-up filter)...sigh.

Not a bad thing really...I'm just lazy and don't like doing it.

And Trevor, I just completely mis-read your post. hmm...carry on gentlemen...carry on.

I don't know. With a $4K Leica rig I can take some darn nice pictures in the 15-90mm range. With a $4K Nikon rig, I can do macro, short tele (400mm or less), and much in between. With either a Timex or a Rolex...I can still only tell the time. Impressively or not. I think there is a world of difference between Rolexes and Leicas. I only wish more people felt the same...then maybe they woudln't be so darn expensive. (Slightly OT, but had to rant a bit. Thanks for letting me get it out of my system)

MdB.

Well what are you taking pictures of Michael? If you don't do Macro/Sports/use telephoto lenses above 90mm or so, you could look into a rangefinder. No mirror at all to induce shake, and very very quiet. you could pick up a Bessa R and a lens for about $3-4 hundred used. Just an idea.

Michael D. Bradigan.

I like to use a "Moose" Filter, made by Hoya, I believe, which acts as a combination polarizer/81A Warming filter. I find that, when you can afford the 2 stop loss of light, the effects of reducing glare, correcting slight bluish cast on Provia (to my eyes), and enhancing the plumage/fur of animals, are often quite worth it.

I see this thread ruffing a few feathers around here. Go easy on him guys.