elek_ludvigh

<p>I got a very clean fully functional 70 for $38.00 including shipping and a 28-100mm D lens, which is very sharp and contrasty. Very similar to the 5, but with enough differences to be worth getting. A little jewel, highly recommended to anyone wanting a light, small, full function camera!<br>

PS. Patrick, thanks for the link, the info in it was what made me decide to take the plunge.</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

I have a Maxxum 5 which I like a lot and am just wondering if the Maxxum 70 which was a later model was a step up, down or virtually identical. Any input from folks who are actually familiar with both models would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks!<br>

Jay</p>

<p>Hello all,<br /><br />I have searched previous threads on this topic but have found nothing that looks like it would work in my case. Although taping the door closed has been suggested, no tape that I have found will hold the door fully closed enough to maintain adequate electric contact for the batteries. Attaching the motor drive as a method of keeping the door closed did not work for me either as the overlap of the drive over the door was not sufficient to keep it tightly closed. I even called Tempe Camera in Phoenix which was mentioned in a previous post to see if they still had a door available, but they do not.<br />I am looking for a solution to the broken catch problem that would allow the camera to be fully functional and am not too worried about modifying it or maintaining perfect cosmetics. I considered the possibility of using a dab of epoxy on the door while holding it closed, with batteries inserted, and then cutting the epoxy when the batteries need to be replaced but this seems like a rather extreme measure. I have also considered drilling a very small diameter hole through the battery housing and inserting a tiny screw to hold the door closed. However, the housing appears to be plastic and the hole would have to be drilled so close to the bottom of the housing that there seems to be a good chance that the housing would break from the surprisingly strong spring pressure against the door when batteries are in place.<br />If any of you out there has come up with a workable solution (or even has an idea which has potential) I would greatly appreciate appreciate hearing about it from you.<br /><br />Thanks!<br /><br />Jay Ludvigh</p>

<p>Wow!<br>

Photo -netters are great folks. Thanks for the quick feedback and a special thanks to Chris Whitcomb. After reading a couple of the glowing reveiws of the EIZO for photo editing I ordered one about 5 minutes ago!</p>

<p>Jay L</p>

<p>Hi All, <br>

I have searched dilligently but can not find any current info on what would be good LCD monitors for photo editing as of 2009. I really do not want to spend over $400 and believe that somewhere out there is a monitor model that is pretty good for that amount. <br>

It would be a huge plus if any photo netters knew of one that was not only good, but was available from Best Buy or Sams Club so that I could pick one up locally. <br>

It appears from the research I have done that the bigest issues are getting a monitor that has a good viewing angle and can have the brightness level adjusted downward enough for good photo editing. I know at this price I won't get anything great but am hoping for something better than my 4 year old Santron CRT which is really adequate for photo editing, but a bit smaller than I would like.<br>

Any suggestions based on your personal experience would be greatly appreciated.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Jay L</p>

<p>Thanks Francois,<br>

Unfortuantely the Spur website is in German and the links to distributors go to only countries in Europe. So... I am still looking for that elusive US distribution source. I have also tried Google with plenty of hits on Spur developers but no reference to any being available except by ordering from Europe.<br>

Jay</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

I want to give this developer a try if I can get some at a reasonable price. I have done a search and have not come up with a US distributor. Can anyone out there help me out on this?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance,</p>

<p>Jay L.</p>

<p>I use ACdsee Pro II and love it. I have Photoshop CS3 and use it for tricky situations and have also used Elements and Lightroom, but for quick, easy, quite comprensive image management and editing I am not aware of anything that comes close to this program. Note that the previous version was good but the Pro II version is GREAT.<br>

Cheers,<br>

Jay L.</p>

Hi All,

 

I have done a reasonably thorough search but can not find any info on when I might actually be able to buy one.

There are several stores that are willing to let me pay now and be shipped one "as soon as they arrive", but is there

any solid knowledge as to whether this will be a couple of weeks or perhaps over two months?

 

Thanks!

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I need help. I have spent the past 3 hours searching for an online photo service

that I used and liked a lot a few months ago. They were very affordable, had quick

turnaround time and did several beautiful 16x20 prints for me that were of

outstanding quality and on Epson luster paper. My problem is that I have no

record of what the service's name is. I do rember that the maximum file size they

could accept was 30 MB. I have been to at least 20 services that do 16x20 prints

and have not found it yet. Can anyone give me some suggestions as to the name?

Out of a need to get something done, I have sent my files to EZ prints, but the

service I used was substantially less expensive. All leads will be greatly

appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Jay

Hi All,

 

This question is targeted at anyone who truly knows the capabilities and

design features of Canon IS lenses. I am primarily a black and white film

user who shoots mostly landscapes using Tmax 100. This film allows much better

resolution of fine detail than I can get using the same lenses on my 20D. I

use the 28-135mm IS a lot because it is very versatile and almost as sharp as

my fixed focal length lenses. I have found the IS to provide a definite

advantage when shooting at low shutter speeds. at speeds below 1/125 it can

provide an acceptable but not razor sharp shot instead of a clearly

unacceptable one.

 

 

I have found that at the 5omm setting I do not get hand-held shots as sharp as

what I get using a tripod until using 1/500 second exposure. Note that I am

making the comparison using T max 100 film, an excellent lens testing chart

which provides resolution readouts to 100 lines/mm and a Minolta Scan elete

5400 scanner. I am not at all shakey and the differences I am talking about

are not visible in prints less than 11x14.

 

 

Anyway, that long introduction is background for the question. What I have

observed is that there is no discernable improvement in resolution with the IS

on or off at any focal length at speeds of 1/250 or faster. Is this because

of some problem with my measurement process or due to the fact that the

adjustments the lens makes to correct for camera movement simply are not quick

enough to help at higher speeds?

 

 

Untill I did the actual testing using the lens testing chart, I had assumed

that the IS at 1/125 would give the sharpness equivalent of shooting at 1/500

with a non-IS lens. This is not what is happening. Does anyone with real, in

depth knowledge of the limitations of IS have an explanation?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I have a Scan Dual IV which had been working perfectly on my computer using

the original install software. I took it out of service for a year and

removed the software from the hard drive in a drive clean up. I just re-

installed everything and it now locks up Photoshop and proceeds no further

when it gets to the initial set up screen. The scanner does not make any of

the usual initializing sounds, everything just stops. I installed the scanner

and software as per the manual instructions and have re-installed everything

twice just to be sure.

So... Does anyone out there know of a way I can get the latest drivers since

it looks like I have a software problem of some kind? Or...Does anyone have

any other ideas I might try to get my scanner working?

 

Thanks In Advance,

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

Having been a previous happy owner of a 7 Xi when it was the state of the art

in autofocus SLRs, I recently aquired an excellent condition specimen. It

works beautifully in every respect, delivering perfectly exposed pictures and

is loads of fun to shoot with its very sharp and quick-focusing 28-105

powerzoom lens. The only peculiarity is that when rewinding the film instead

of running completely smoothly for the whole roll it makes a pronounced click

every few seconds as it rewinds. I am hoping another 7Xi owner can let me

know if this is normal for this model since I can't rember whether my previous

unit did it or not.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jay L.

Thanks Guys,

 

It is great to have arcane questions like this answered so quickly and helpfully. Photo-netters are great folks.

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I have two questions that I am hoping the old time Minolta experts out there

can answer. 1. Is there an easy, affordable way to disable the eye start

feature on the 7XI? I would not even mind if it were permanantly disabled. I

find this feature a big negative about an otherwise really nice camera since I

often walk around with the camera in my hand and dislike it preparing to shoot

when it is nowhere near my eye! 2. Will XI lenses work correctly in all

respects except for the power zoom feature on a Maxxum 7?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I have done a search and have not been able to find out if the Epson 1400 can

be used in a black only mode. My 1280 has just died and I am looking for an

affordable replacement. All the reviews of the 1400 report that while it is

excellent with color, the results for B&W prints are not very good. My 1280

had a similar problem when I used all the inks, but produced excellent prints,

even better than I could get in my wet darkroom, when used in the black only

mode. More than half of what I print digitaly is B&W so very good performance

is needed in this area.

So, my questions are does the software that comes with the printer allow black

only printing, and if so are the results as good as with the 1280 in the black

only mode? I print almost exclusively on glossy paper.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jay L.

Thank you!

I have contacted Eric Henderson and he will do the repair at an affordable cost.

Photo-netters are great folks.

 

Jay Ludvigh

Hi All,

 

I have recently aquired a beautiful ESll which works perfectly in all respects

except for the fact that the light meter and battery check do not work. I

sent it to Peachtree Camera Repair in Atlanta who have done good work for me

in the past, but they said although it was fine in all respects except for the

meter (with no corrosion of any of the circuits) it was unrepairable by them.

Does anyone out there know of an affordable repair person who might have the

expertiese and parts to do the job?

Thanks in advance fot the help!

 

Jay Ludvigh

Hi all,

 

Scott already knows this because we have discussed it before, but I see substantially more grain in long expired Pan X even if it has been kept forzen. I have some frozen 1988 expiry and it absolutely has noticable grain at 11x14 from 35 MM negs, while prints from negs shot in the 70s do not.

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I have a Minolta scan elete 5400 which I love in every respect except for

depth of field issues. If a negative has the least bit of curve, the film

holder will not hold it dead flat and as a result the top and bottom of a

landscape oriented picture or the sides of a portrait oriented picure will be

noticeably less sharp (in big enlargements) than the center. The issue is not

camera lens edge sharpness, since if I manually focus the scanner on the edges

of the negative the edges will be razor sharp in the print with the center

significantly less sharp.

 

In a previous post regarding this issue it was suggested I modify my negative

holder with anti-Newton ring glass but I am very reluctant to do that as it

may just produce a new set of problems and would probably not work unless the

negatives were actually sandwiched between two layers of glass.

 

Anyway, what I am wondering is if anyone has found a solution for the Minolta

5400 or, what seems more likely, knows from personal experience if there is

any scanner out there for under $1000 that does not have this depth of field

problem and can render razor sharp scans from edge to edge with curved

negatives.

 

Thanks in Advance,

 

 

Jay Ludvigh

Hi all,

 

I am sure this is a ridiculously simple question for the PS experts out there,

but the title pretty much sums it up. What I am asking in a bit more detail,

is that my colors are fine, but unless I change the image which initially

comes from my scanner by selecting, view > proof setup > monitor RGB, my print

will be much too light overall.

I suspect that this has something to do with the overall brightness setting

of photoshop because I do not have this problem with ACDSee 9 which I use for

my quick and dirty prints. As long as I remember to go through changing to the

monitor RGB proof mode (which immediately changes my on screen image to be

much lighter) then darken it appropriately, all subsequent edits result in

prints which very closely match what I see on screen.

My monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Color Spyder and Adobe gamma has been

deleted from the computer.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in Advance,

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

I am wondering if aside from the "double XX " inscription on the lens there is

any physical or optical difference between these lenses. I suspect the XX

models are of earlier manufqcture and some Ebay listings tout them as being

rarer and more desirable. I am hoping ther is someone out there who can sort

myth from reality for me on this.

 

Thanks in Advance.

 

Jay L

Many Thanks to All,

 

After reviewing the Pop Photo test referenced by Fred above, I have decided that is the way to go for me, but all suggestions are appreciated. Photo Net is great!

 

Cheers,

 

Jay L.

Hi All,

 

The title pretty much says it all. I am looking for a good affordable walk

around lens in this approximate range to use with my somewhat beat up N80 for

mostly landscapes and portraiture.

 

I have researched the major lens testing web sites but have not seen any info

on how lenses in this category from Sigma, Vivitar or Tamron compare with the

Nikor versions. I plan to buy used from Ebay and would like to spend no more

than $100 or so. I have a Nikkor 24-120 which I use on my F100 and like a

lot, but I am looking for a lighter, cheaper lens, which if damaged or stolen

along with the N80 would not cause serious depression.

 

I bet someone out there in photo net land knows about a sleeper lens that

would meet these needs.

 

Thanks in Advance,

 

Jay L.

Hi again All,

 

Many thanks for the very valuable help. My computer skills are minimal, but I have a computer guru who looked at the info you all have provided and said that while he might not have been able to set me up to do what I hoped was possible, on his own, by using the information in your posts he was sure he could do it. Photo.net and photo-netters are great!

 

Cheers,

 

Jay Ludvigh