james phillips

You will not have a problem finding any of these films that are fresh and kept in cool storage within Calgary, Alberta. I would recommend for the freshest film that you call "The Camera Store at Ph: 234-9935 or Technicare at Ph: 228-0075 upon your arrival. These stores are just south of downtown and within blocks of each other.

Technicare can probably also develop the films without any problems or otherwise recommend a local lab.

If you are coming this far, be sure to visit the Kananaskis Valley and Mountains as the scenery is fantastic.

Kind Regards,

The book I like best on exposure is "Perfect Exposure" by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz. A blend between technical and common sense understanding.

Kind Regards,

You may want to be quite selective (read careful) about buying used ones from Eb** and such. I bought a used one from Eb** and have had problems with it. I sometimes wonder if the ones we see that keep surfacing on Eb** are not perhaps wearing out. After all the prime use of these new in the mid part of the last century was for "newspaper" photographers. At that time the holders were considered just another handy tool and not a "prime piece of glass" to be treasured and taken care of.

Good ones can be quite handy to own so hopefully you are able to see the holders before you buy them. These things do have mechanical parts unlike a simple holder and one must anticipate or expect that these parts will be a bit worn.

Kind Regards,

Hello Walt,

Actually I have been doing E-6 quite successfully in my Unidrum for a few years now. A bit of patience and the correct procedure works just fine. Check Jon's link to see it for yourself.

Kind Regards,

Now I am uncertain if this is THE Roger Hicks. If it is though, I must say I rather enjoyed the book "Perfect Exposure" and learnt a great deal from reading the material.

I am unaware of the article a previous poster is making reference to. Could somebody enlighten me?

If this is the real Roger Hicks then I would like to make it clear that in no manner was I intending to incite any negative responses. On the contrary... I am quite a fan of your publications.

Kind Regards,

Hello Roger,

After writing the book "Perfect Exposure" I would have thought that you would be providing the answers ... and not asking the questions.

As mentioned by an earlier post... the gray card does not give an optimum exposure in all situations.

Kind Regards,

After reading through this thread I now feel like a simple man. Most of the theories and such probably have merit but for me the answer is much simpler and quite obvious.

I spent my youth growing up in the outdoors and rambling around in the hills. There is not any magical or deep inspirational reason about why I enjoy so much being there and away from day to day life with all the people around. I enjoy the fresh cool air, the lack of industrial noise, and the serenity of the open mountains. As for why do I enjoy photographing the outdoors is simply because I enjoy photography? I take pleasure in learning and practicing my camera /darkroom skills nearly as much as I enjoy being outdoors so it is a good marriage shooting outdoor photography.

I have just changed from hunting and 4x4 cruising in my earlier years to shooting photographs in my later years. Once again a simple answer to what I consider a simple question. I enjoy being outdoors. Taking photographs and trying to make the best fine prints that I can just provides me with an activity that permits me to interact with my surroundings. Otherwise I might get bored and do something stupid like take up local politics to fill in the vacant moments.

As you can see, I am a simple man hopefully making the correct choices.

Kind Regards,

Best book I can think of is "Perfect Exposure" by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz. Roger Hicks is brilliant at explaing in layman's terms the fine details of photographic controls. I have quite a few advanced books and most of the ones mentioned above are really good but not as good as this one IMHO. Roger and Frances also write Quality Photography which is also a helpful addition for someone seeking to improve their ability in a more general realm of overall photographic skills.

I have also just acquired "Way Beyond Monochrome" by Ralph W. Lambrecht and Chris Woodhouse which is a very recent release. (Fountain Press 2003). This is also turning out to be a fabulous reference and learning manual for B&W techniques. This is the first book I have read that is running serious competition for Roger and France's "Perfect Exposure".

I also have read Tim Rudman's " The Photographer's Master Printing Course" and found it to be quite a valuable book. As mentiouned earlier Ctein's "Post Exposure" is a good book for improving your printing skills and understanding some of the variables in the process. I also have Henry Horenstein's "Beyond Basic Photography" and am using that as a measuring stick for you. This book is quite good as a basic starter book for learning advanced concepts but the ones I have mentioned will take you well beyond this book.

IMHO if you are going to buy just one then go with Perfect Exposure otherwise if another can be added then obtain Way Beyond Monochome and you will be prepared for a winter of learning.

Kind Regards,

Don,

Perhaps a weak battery. Try a few tests inside the house perhaps from a wall without shadows to confirm. Increase the room brightness by adding lights (lamps or overhead lighting) to check various readings. Make sure to not add your shadow to the reading and also to hold the LunaSix level when doing this(not pointed upwards or downwards). You will need to be rather close to the wall as the LunaSix has quite a wide field of view and you wish to ensure that you are only reading the wall and not averaging the whole room area. Also ensure to check against another camera just to be 100% sure it is the LunaSix and not the camera meter that is improperly working.

Good luck

Steve

You mention that "the new TriX doesn't stain as well as the old. Ilford HP5 stains excellent, but the color can mess with the Saunders VCC enlargers so he recommended we not use that for workshop. " has me a bit concerned.

I am using Tri-X (4x5) and can now only buy the new version. I also use a Saunders VCC enlarger so that discounts using HP5 with pyro.

What is Gordon Hutching's suggestion for a person in my situation that is not easliy able to buy films in my area other than Tri-X and HP5 Plus in the faster ASA range?

Kind Regards,

Tim,

I just saw last weekend a lightly used (looked that way) 7600 for sale at the Camera Store in Calgary. Not sure if you are interested in buying the printer, but thought I would tell you about it. If not then the folks that work there are up to date on who has the equipment for printing in town. Perhaps give them a call. (ask to speak to Julian)

http://www.thecamerastore.com/

Regards,

Horses.

Oh.. I almost forgot. Playing country music in my darkroom, especially when Eric is visiting. :>))

I am in agreement with Paul on this issue.

Could it be that Large Format is mostly a solitary venture and as such we all occasionally wish to emerge from our shells? Perhaps this is a place where we can also display our human qualities amongst others with similar interests?

Kind regards,

Just an educated guess here, but I believe that different developers affect the outcome (color) of FP4+ and other films. My personal experience is that FP4+ comes out less pinkish when I use HC-110. I also notice this quite a bit with Tri-X sheet film. The developer comes out of the tank with a slightly pink color.

I believe that it is the amount of sodium sulfite in the developer and the fact that I use quite a diluted ratio (thus a longer time in the developer) that causes this.

Just my observations.

Marios,

You will not be able to use film reels in a paper drum properly. You will need to use the film drum which has a moveable "end" plug and is smooth on the inside. The end plug can be adjusted to permit different amount of reels inside the drum. (up to six 135 format...I think)

The reels for the unicolor drums have a solid inside core that joins each reel so that when you pour in the developer it goes right to the bottom of the drum and begins the fill process from the bottom up. The reels fit perfectly into a film drum without any slop or movement.

I can give you an estimate on the amount of developer needed per reel (but this is only an estimate because I am not at home and do not have the spec sheet with me. I think it is 210 ml for the first reel and then something like 90 ml for each additional reel.

Watch for the drums on Ebay as they come up often and cheap. Also call some of the bigger camera stores that carry used eqipment as these drums are fairly readily available used.

Regards,

In essence is not the Zone System just taking a light reading of the shadows and then the highlights. With this information you are then able to determine the contrast range of your subject and mark the film to be processed in relation to this information. (ie. N, N-1, N+1, etc)

If that is the case, then yes I do utilize the Zone System when I shoot LF film. I find that this is especially useful when shooting outdoor scenes where the range of brightness for the scene can exceed what normal development would give me in regards to an "Easily" printable negative.

Notice that the keyword here is that by utilizing the Zone System, I feel that I am maximizing my negatives so that the printing stage is easier. This does not mean that burning and dodging are not needed, but rather that my densities are such that it is possible to print the high areas with detail while not having to go through gymnastics to prevent the lows (shadows) from blocking up.

So yes, I do use a simple format of the Zone System.

Regards,

Here you go.

http://www.geocities.com/eskoufos/fmm.html

Regards,

Rick,

I would go with an XG-1 model. I have had one for 20 years and it is still working fine. I also own an XD-11 and a X-300 but still think the XG-1 is the best all around model. Takes all of the MC/MD lenses, roboust and simple to use.

Regards,

I guess I need practice. I only got 6 out of 10. Two of the fakes were really good.

Regards,

Thanks for the review Michael.

One question though... Does the back panel easily remove from the bellows so that one might be able to use the hood to view the corners of the ground glass?

Regards

Hi Dave,

You mentioned �Am I the only one who can't get tap water anywhere near 68 deg F, especially this time of the year? It started out at about 84 deg F, and I mixed in ice until I got 68 deg F.� and then went on to say �My house's air runs about 71-72 deg. F�.

Does this mean that the ground around your house where the water pipes come in is 12 degrees warmer than the air? I obviously do not live in your area but most of the US places I have visited seem to have tap water coming out of the tap in the 60 � 75 degrees F. depending on the area. 84 degrees sure seems like warm tap water.

Kind Regards,

Up here in the Rockies, the best thing is to let at least one reliable person know where you are hiking. My number two is a portable first aid kit. Cut yourself and start to lose some of that necessary juice (blood) and you are going nowhere� even 50 feet to the vehicle. Hypothermia is the next major concern if lost so carrying a outer jacket in the backpack and taking a hat is a prime factor. I also usually take one of those mini space age silver blankets in the survival kit. Of course I have a fire starter, compass, knife, whistle and a variety of other light carrying things tucked into a very small (9 oz) survival kit but I really do not feel that this is necessary (except maybe the fire starter) if I was lost for 48 hours. I make the decision to carry the survival kit each time based upon where I am going.

Once again I stress that first-aid and protecting yourself from hypothermia (loss of body heat) is the number one thing for myself in my hiking areas. Hypothermia also has the nasty side effect of fogging your thinking very quickly and with poor judgment there is a very real possibility of hurting yourself or making things a lot worse.

As a final suggestion I would share with others not to be afraid of staying out all night if you are really lost and darkness is setting in. You are much, much safer by staying put in the dark and have a catnap or two than by wandering around. There is very little to fear from animals, as predators do not typically hunt during darkness. You will be surprised at how much improved your situation will look the next morning by the dawn of light. Patience and clear thinking are the best tools to have and I think most of you already have those. (at least LF Photographers :>)) )

Oh yeah �..If I have the blonde or brunette female companion with me�please�please�please� do NOT come looking for me. This is the way I wish to go to meet my maker.

Kind Regards,

Hello Scott,

Should you not know, the mating time for the buffalo is the Running Season. (July � just around the corner) Legend has it that any warrior foolish enough to hunt the Holy Man�s creature during this time runs a grave risk. Should the buffalo take him at this time, the Great Spirit will condemn his spirit to roam with the buffalo herd for the rest of entirety.

I trust that you carrying an abundance of film with you should you be taken. <grin>

Kind Regards,

Hello Paul,

I have just begun to experiment with the 2200 but as a newcomer am struggling with color management issues. I am sure that your knowledge far surpasses mine in this regard. I am able to help you though in pricing of a 7600/9600 from Canada. Please email me offline if you wish to have any information in this regard. There are three aspects which may concern you if you were to buy from North America. The first is that the NA version does not include the "grey calibration" kit that the European does. The second is that there may be a voltage connection issue. Finally you may wish to think about a warranty/repair situation should the printer need service.

Kind Regards,