chat_sirichanvimol

It's true that there will be CROWDS of people everywhere but in the very early parts of the

day you can really catch some nice photos without the madness. The Brooklyn Bridge from

the Brooklyn side is beautiful in the morning as the sun comes up around 6-7am. If you

can get to somewhere high overlooking Times Sq. that is often a stunning shot late in the

day and evening when the street lights up. A long exposure is kinda fun to play with, as

people moving around become a blur sea below the lights. The Mayc's windows at Herald

Sq is always a treat. Bryant Park and Lincoln Center a couple of places to do night

photography and early evenings as well but expect droves of people. Those are some of

the more staple shots. Other than those truly the city a big photo shoot. Be aware that if

you got some professional looking equipment that some places require you to get a

permit but that's easily done (i.e. Grand Central and Penn Station).

I wish I was able to read this thread before going on my trip to Thailand for two weeks.

After two weeks of shooting and trekking around Thailand here are a couple of things I

discovered:

 

If you plan on using a tripod get a light on! I brought my old trusty bogen that I got when I

was a poor student (aka. heavy as stone!). I know there were a half dozen times I wished I

had my tripod but didn't because I decided to leave it in the hotel room or car because it

was to big and heavy to tote around.

 

Big zoom lenses are as conspicuous as you can get not to mention heavy. If you are

looking to take photoj- pics, having a huge lens mounted on your camera is not what you

want. I'd recommend a medium zoom 24-70mm, and a couple of prime lenses to walk

around with. I'd keep a long lens in my inventory too but only break it out for shots I know

I'm going to be using it for - not for walking around in the city.

 

Having a couple of different bags from different uses is a very good idea. In fact having a

bag to walk around in the city with (that doesn't look like a camera bag) is an EXTREAMLY

GOOD idea if you value your equipment. Someone once recommended a diaper bag. I'm

not joking. Unless they know what is in the bag, is someone really going to want to steal a

bag full of diapers?

I agree with Edward Ingold. I just returned from a two week trip to Thailand. I brought 5 gi

of CF memory with me, which I downloaded to DVDs from day to day. I would have much

rather downloaded to a portable backup drive but if that isn't an option burning to the

DVDs is both reliable and inexpensive way of storing your images. You can just bring a

card reader and some DVDs in a soft case/binder, and burn them at any Internet cafe.

I'll be in Thailand for 2 weeks and planning on shooting digitally. I only have 4gi of compact flash

memory and I'm planning on shooting a massive amount images (at least 4 gi a day). I'm reluctant to

bring my laptop to download images too for various reasons, i.e. voltage issues, thief, weather

elements, etc. Does anyone know if files from a compact flash card can be downloaded to a computer

overseas?

How does the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 HSM compare to the Canon 70-200mm f2.8

USM?

Anyone know of any dark room rentals in Western Massachusetts,

Amherst, Spingfield, Greenfield, North Hampton?

I have the mirror in the release position but when I crank the film to advance the mirror locks up on by itself. Then when I click the shutter the shutter sounds as if it releases but the mirror stays locked until I click the shutter again. Only then does the mirror release. All this is happening with the the mirror lockup lever still in the release mode (without manually swithing the lever to mirror lock). The problem is now that when ever I advance the film the mirror lock automatically engages and I can't compose the picture before press the shutter release. At that point composing is pointless. I also have it in AE mode for aperture priority. I trying to figure out if there is anything I doing wrong before I bring it to the shop and look like a total dope. Any ideas?

I have the mirror released so that I can compose the picture. When

I turn the film crank to advance the film the mirror lock up engages

by itself. I'm not sure the shutter is working properly either

because the depth on the button press is very shallow. Anyone ever

see this on the Mamiya 645E.

Ok -

This make sense. I have bracketing on one camera and only apeture priority on the other. I'll switch to manual and bracket the exposure while keeping the shutter speed constant.

 

Thanks everyone.

Ok -

I'm trying to capture my subjects under natural light and it was

suggested to bracket when in dought. That said, when bracketing

would you use apeture priority where the shutter speend is

automatically calculated or do you want to hold the shutter speed

fixed to control the how long the light is hitting your negative

while you bracket the f-stop or does it not matter?

 

Thanks

I'm looking into purchasing my first light meter. I'm planning to do

about 60% outdoor landscape and protrait work, 30% indoor protrait,

and 10% action/sport. Is there any advantage to have an incident

v.s. a reflective meter? Should it be spot or ambient?

 

Thanks

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

The biggest issue I�m struggling with is trying to decide between buying something more economical and getting more lens then trading up or making the investment now, buying one good lens (which I could totally survive with for now) and then add lenses as I go along. It sounds like it a smarter plan to upgrade so I don�t have to trade up in any short amount of time.

 

That said� anyone have any ideas on the opinions between Nikon and Canon of the same trim?

 

Thanks again!

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the advice. This is good info.

 

I�m still a student and I�m starting to branch out on selling some work. Mostly for now I�m looking to perfect my work and expand my skills into other areas to give myself new perspectives. My budget is pretty much between 1000 to 1500 for any single lens � even then it�s a one at a time purchase.

 

Would a zoom lens or prime lens be better suited for portraiture or headshots type of work? Do I really need a zoom lens for this type work?

I starting to expand the type of photography I do.

60% Landscape

30% Portrait and Headshots

10% Action and Sports

 

Can anyone recommend the type of lenses I should be looking at for

each type?

I'm about to do a major upgrade in equipment and I've been trying to

decide between the Nikon F100, F5 or the Canon EOS1v. While the F100

is in financial reach, I would have to streach a bit for the other

two. I figure I can certainly get the F100 but would probably end up

upgrading again in a year. Am I better off getting the F5 or the

EOS1v and if so should it be the F5 or EOS1v?

 

I've thought this out several times and came up with a different

decision each time. HELP!