indraneel

<p>Exactly what in the world would drive a perfectly happy person to become an obsessive super-achiever? Suffering enhances creativity... it's that simple. And, I would trade all the creativity in the world for a moment's happiness. On the other hand, while unhappiness might provide a drive (to perform or escape), the nature to escape will simultaneously also block potential creative decisions. Blessed is the one who was once sad and is now happy.</p>

<p>There might be at least one example where someone forcibly nailed to a cross has been known to have a remarkably different outlook towards life from that of the ones who nailed him.</p>

<p>A question <a href="../casual-conversations-forum/00ZHpV">here</a> which also (self) references my earlier question <a href="../off-topic-forum/00Y6hI">here</a>.</p>

<p>IIRC the alkaline is 1.5V and the meter (if working) will need to be recalibrated. If the meter is working, I'd just carry a bunch of hearing aid cells and fashion a spacer; If the meter is not working, just carry a small handheld (even though it's a pity that pocket size spotmeters are not made nowadays, and olympus decided to put it's spotmeter in the convoluted SP instead of this one).</p>

<p>The needle needs to be not on the red part (IIRC) for the shutter to fire. Are the ISO and shutter speed set correctly?</p>

<p>Fungus will grow anywhere; I've seen it growing on concentrated potassium chloride solution, prepared with triple distilled water in sterilized conditions, and then sealed and autoclaved.</p>

<p>Insure your lenses and move away from the coast.</p>

<p>Here's anoher...<br>

Interesting to see a photographer getting paid for his work... I wonder if he should have shot digital and put the RAW files on torrent...</p>

<p>A tiny dim viewfinder doesn't exactly compete with a playboy spread. But while culling a glamour shoot, I'll probably not rate a shot that fails to arouse me even slightly (unless it has "fine art" potential).</p>

<p>Ohhh... Sorry Andrew and Gary! My bad!... I forgot the +/- button even existed, safe to say that I've never ever used it. (On second thoughts, that's actually not entirely true: I do use it to reset the exposure comp to zero when switching from A to M, if exp comp has been set in A.)</p>

<p>As for not jumping to the D3, I do use the +/- buttons on my point and shoot (canon(!) A800) which neither has manual nor easy exposure control (nor a chdk port).</p>

<p>Since you'll be paying 10 times the entry fee as that for an Indian national at nearly every place, simply hold your ticket and shout at anyone that tries to fleece you. The photography/videography fee will often cost more than the entry fee, but not always. While some places used to have a distinction between SLR and non SLR fees, I've not seen a distinction between amateur and professional based on the gear being carried at any place. Most places will screen bags for security reasons, and a shoulder bag is much simpler to get checked. Most places that do not allow tripods will not object to a pocket tripod (I carry the manfrotto with extension; and call it a "stand", not a tripod).</p>

<p>(Most likely, your travel agent is indirectly asking for more $$$, I'd be wary.)</p>

<p>It's not an exposure compensation button, it's an exposure LOCK button. You can LOCK the exposure, move the camera around, chat on the phone and still come back to the old exposure settings. Useful, if you're also using autofocus and matrix metering and want the benefits of stepless aperture or shutter (which manual exposure mode will not provide).</p>

<p>It's great that the button exists, it's sad that the location is where it is. For $2500 more Nikon will place it correctly for you, as on the D3.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It costs 33c/gallon if you have your own bottle...</p>

<p>There has been plenty of animal behavior and psychology research on this. The fright/flight/fight/freeze response is characteristic of all animals (including humans; with chronic child abuse being a classic case). Hormonal and rudimentary neuronal systems have been keeping entire species alive long before primates arrived and started simplifying observations into rules. It is too soon to tell if Nature bet all it's got on some simplified logic and decided to do away with the other time tested networks.</p>

<p>Another author one may like: Desmond Morris</p>

<p>Don't they have a forum to ask where what code is located? Bugzilla bugs me too, I wish everybody used reportbug.</p>

<p>ViewNX2 is not that useful but, give the Capture NX2 free trial a try. A friend of mine says he can uninstall and reinstall it for another 60 days after the first 60 are over (he's on a Mac).</p>

<p>Gegl is scheduled to support 16bit in 2013, and Gimp says we idle folks should help them patch up the code...</p>

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<p>normally I go naked</p>

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<p>!!! not even (g)strings?</p>

<p>I have a hard time believing the straps would give away, but then I put the short ends on the inside where they are more likely to be pressed to the buckle as the load increases, rather than the outside where they may become loose.</p>

<p>As for maker's marks, I have a black permanent marker...</p>

<p>After reading your post I went out on the porch and got this. It was pouring so much, I could hardly see. Like you, <em>"I converted it when I got my D200, since put aside for a D700." </em>But my "conversion" is different. I just removed the AA filter, and stick in rosco gels behind the mirror box; took 15 minutes, and 5 min to change gels if I want a different cutoff. More examples in my folders.</p><div></div>

<p>Wow! The only thing that's real seems to be the unbranded third party grips. Guess I'll stick with those. I'm also happy to learn that the Nikon grip does not tighten solidly against the body, just like my third party (Jenis or something) one; it always bothered me if I should have splurged for the real thing...</p>

<p>I don't understand why you can't use sandbags at the beach... Buy any decent lightstand that won't break and collapse on itself in the wind. Carry some sacks and a shovel, maybe also some string if it's especially windy.</p>

<p>Why wouldn't a recessed tube have worked with the original lens mount? How wide do you want to go? The lens mount will come in handy if you want interchangeable focal lengths. Besides, the camera body itself might restrict some light at much wider than 46mm. As good as scrapping a FM sounds, I'd rather use a bellows camera and medium or large format for wide angle (and mark off the lengths where pin holes need to be changed). Remember that the accuracy of your pin hole becomes very critical with a smaller format. I hope you're using a good microscope for making them, preferably one with binocular vision or eyes may rapidly become sore. You will also need a true matt black paint to eliminate all the ghosting from long exposures and some type of attachment to support the pipe for tele focal lengths (300mm and beyond) if you'll use those.</p>

<p>Inserts are cheap (about $10 - $20 a piece on ebay); get some and put them in your favourite bag. If you want a backpack, an internal frame helps.</p>

<p>The light rays reaching your lens from a point in space are effectively parallel, irrespective of the distance; thus the exposure does not change. The identical scenario in lighting would be if you had a spotlight/dedolight on your subject. There would be no light falloff with distance. The inverse square law does not hold for parallel rays. As Leigh said, the light bulb needs to be enclosed in a sphere (whose surface area changes with square of radius).</p>

<p>I have never tried it, but by my own logic, exposure should change between an object shot as macro (like from a centimeter away) and from farther away (since the change in surface area covered by the lens here is probably huge).</p>

<p>some more split hairs about spotlights <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00XIRH">here</a>.</p>

<p>And the battery contacts are clean...?</p>

<p>I'm watching it right now (well, hearing her talk about single tasking as I'm typing this... :) and it is really awesome... unlike many of the previous live courses there (honestly IMHO)...</p>

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<p>Does focal length or distance to subject determine how you meter?</p>

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<p>Yes. Matrix and spot meter are often useless with a wide angle lens, so I switch to center weighted. Matrix if I don't care too much about the rest of the frame but a lot about what's under the focus point (especially with a D lens). I don't use matrix if I don't want the subject (where the focus point is) at midtone and can't imagine how to compensate. I don't use matrix if I'm focusing manually. Mostly spot with a tele lens. If my lighting conditions will not be changing a lot, I pre-measure with a handheld spotmeter, keep the settings in mind, and compensate accordingly. FWIW, I meter off the sky a lot... there's a relation between white and dark clouds and blue skies and everything on the ground they illuminate which is mostly constant.</p>

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<p>If you are getting CS5, do you really need the Nikon program?</p>

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<p>I'd say yes, if you like to do complicated things simply with a whole lot of control. If you're also using Nikon cameras and shooting RAW, it's a no brainer. Photoshop only comes in because capture NX can't load more than one image in separate layers.</p>

<p>The 35RC is extremely small and silent, very very good if you don't need a slower than 1/15 sec shutter. Fantastic lens if in original condition, no flare and focuses fast. Relatively rugged. AE works quite well. The 35SP is bigger and heavier and not inconspicuous. Lens is great, again no flare, shutter has zero noise (leaf shutter). The SP is however cumbersome to use with its strange EV metering, shutter speeds on the lens, etc. It does have a somewhat reliable spotmeter (if that's working). The SP also has shutter speeds up to 1 sec, but AE locks up and is similar to 35RC.</p>

<p>Between the two, I wish the 35RC had slower shutter speeds up to 1 sec. Get the RC if you're not a collector and lack of slower shutter speeds is not an issue. The SP is great as a prop.</p>

<p>The metal portion of a collapsible rubber hood makes a nice hood without blocking the finder.</p>