lars_kristensen

Hi Richard!

I use a HAMA self timer on my M6 TTL. But be careful to adjust it so the pin that presses and releases the "shutter" doesnt destroy it. Read the user's guide how to do it. Works fine. /Lars

What can I do about it? I payed a lot of money for it new but I don't

want to send it back for such a silly thing. The hood is off center 4-

5 degrees. Is there a simple way to fix it without expensive tools?

/Lars

Summicron 50 mm, latest.

55 ... M4 since 1971 /Lars

Hi!

How about developing a roll of TMAX-400 and a roll of TRI-X at the same time in the same tank. Are there any chemical reactions in one film base that can be transported to the other film base and and cause some damage?

/Lars

John!

 

<p>

 

HC-110 stock solution is 1 part HC-110 and 3 parts of water. To make

dilution B take 1 part of stock slution and 7 parts of water.

This means that dilution B is 1 part of HC-110 and 31 parts of water!

I think that, but I'm not sure, that 5-7 minutes will give you good

starting points for T-MAX and TRI-X for example. I use HC-110 1+50

and have a couple of more minutes. 20 degrees C.

/Lars

My M4 also has the seam visible, but I have no trouble with it yet.

From time to time I check the shutter from 1s to 1/1000s and also do

a comparsion against my old Leicaflex and M6. Only minor differecies

so far. /Lars

I have an original Leicaflex with which I bought 10 years ago due to a

fair price at that time. Two lenses included 2/50 and 2.8/90. Later I

also bought a 2.8/180 (old type). Mostly I use my M4 and M6 but I must

say that at that price ($280) I think it is a good investment. I mean

the lens is quite good and you can buy extra lenses at reasonably fair

prices. A Leicaflex without lens is about $200 here in Sweden today.

The lever is for locking the mirror. At some circumstances this may be

a good idea. The metering i none TTL. Just a simple meter. Not so good

in my opinion. I prefer a handheld meter also when I use my M6 TTL.

But I think you have better be sure about the function. Ask about

shutter speeds and so on because the repair cost is about the price

for the camera.

The quality of the lenses at those days don't differ to much from

todays lenses. I is not always easy to see the difference between

prints from my old 2.8/90 Elmarit-R (Leicaflex) and new APO 2/90

Summicron-M (M4,M6). Good luck!

/Lars

Hi again!

My picture didn't work!! What I intended to show you was that

when I hang up the film I try to pull the upper anchor parts of the

film away by means of threads and "fish" hooks. At the bottom

part I attach two "heavy" trolling spoones. It works fine!

 

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/Lars

This way will give You fine negatives:

===.=========================.==

. .

. . threads, attached like this

. . by means of small "fish hooks"

. .

. .

. .

+-------+

| |

| |

| |

| | Film

| |

| |

| |

+-------+

| |

O O <-- "heavy" trolling spoones

 

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/Lars

Hi! I have an old Rolleiflex E (1957) and now would like to ask about development and other differencies for a couple of 120 films (Kodak).

I prefer using D76 1+1 at 20 degrees C and about 10 min (plus/minus a minute or two depending on the subject exposure and so on).

Kodak gives no recommendation for Tri-X pan ISO 320, but does so for Tri-X 400 pro ISO 400, when using D76 1+1. Now my question: Must I use D76 undiluted when developing Tri-X ISO 320. Is there differecies between 1+1 and undiluted that cause som kind of bad things to this film but not the other? Some experts out there? Final question: Which film of this two is regarded the best? Some other film recommendation? Thanks in advance. Lars

Tom !

I went through this and at last I didn't know what to do. So I had to

make a final decision. I wasn't that adventurous so I wind up with a

0.72. I think this is in between if you have further plans to use a 90

mm and cannot afford an extra body (who can?). One drawback is that if

you later on go for a short one (24 mm) you need an extra viewfinder.

I think that with a .58 you can use the 24 mm without the viewfinder

despite the lack of a 24 mm frame line. With a .72 you will need that

extra viewfinder. You see, all those options makes you crazy. The

world is not the same. But in the final end you will be happy. Nowdays

three months later I am happy with my 0.72 and 24 (+viewfinder), 50

and 90.

/Lars

Justin!

 

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I also got tired about all those water spots on my negatives so

finally I took the step to use a very fine sponge. I haven't seen any

harm to my negatives. No scratches. But I also decided to try to rinse

in "cold" water whitch I do by gradually (in a couple of minutes)

lower the temperature from 20 C (70 F) down to about 14 degrees C.

This may help to make the emulsion a little bit harder. I also use a

hardener fixer. From now on I have so far now problems with my

negatives. And I think that I can be pretty violent when using the

sponge. My recommendation is that you make a test. Take one roll of

film and use the sponge in different ways on different parts of the

roll and try to find out how violent you can be.

/Lars

Ok, thank you for your answers so far. I also think it's not the hot

shoe but the viewfinder so i will try to live with it. This piece of

plastic may have been manufactured with some pedestal error. But if I

do not attach the viewfinder right at the "bottom" then I can align

it with the front of the camera body and lock it. It is when I push

it the last 2-3 millimeters to the "bottom" of the shoe that it goes

out of direction. Also I have the possibility to attach it to my old

M4 which is now in for service. I will compare later. Thank you

again! /Lars

My first try seemed to diappear so I try again. Here it is: My vewfinder attached to the accessory shoe points left 2-3 degrees so if it is not the viewfinder itself it must be the accessory shoe that points in that direction. Is there an easy way to adjust it? Is it the little screw at the front of shoe or do I have to go inside the camera. I am a little bit scared to do something that may damage it so please help! /Lars