tom_westbrook

Email them at <a href=mailto:arca-swiss@swissonline.ch>arca-swiss@swissonline.ch</a> and ask for a dealer near you. You can also ask them to send you a brochure. They will also answer any questions you have about the camera & reply pretty quickly (within a day or two, in my experience).

<p>You can pick up the PDF of the brochure at the LF Home Page web site: <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/ARCA.zip">arca.zip(2MB)</a>. <p>Other contact info (I'm pretty sure this is accurate):

<blockquote>

ARCA-SWISS S.A.R.L. International<br>

29 quartier de l'Europe<br>

Espace Valentin<br>

FR-25048 Besançon<br>

Phone +33-381 8540 61<br>

Fax +33-381 8540 69<br>

</blockquote>

Also, look at the LF camera reviews on the LF Home Page site <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/listcameras.html">LF reviews</a>. The Discovery isn't specifically reviewed, but it's mentioned in the <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/arca-swiss.html">4x5 F-Line review</a> & near the end of the review lists the differences between the two cameras.<p>

Hi Bob,<p>

 

I've got a G2220 and have tried it with the Arca Field and found it to be too small/unstable. I use the Gitzo G1329 carbon fiber (the 1325 plus the center column) and it's as light as I'd use with that camera. It has stops, not infinately variable, but for a heavy load I would think the stops would be safer and more stable. On windy days, use the center column with your camera bag hanging off the hook at the bottom. <p>If I had it to do again, I'd think more about the alloy version (G1320?) because its not that much heavier to carry, but the extra weight might add a bit more stability. It's much less expensive, too. If you think you'll be going any distance off-road, you may want the 2lb savings, but if not, it's not going to matter that much. Also the leg friction locks are a bit grabby on the carbon fiber & can sometimes be difficult to release if you tighten them down too much.<p>

 

Best regards

I think your guess is right. The anti-halation coating on the back probably would have blocked any light from reaching the emulsion.

The reason why the LF posts, at least, haven't been repaired may be tied up in the continuing saga of the LF forum moving elsewhere. See <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lf-photonet.html">discussion on Q.-Tuan Luong's site</a> (also see the link at the bottom of that article for pointer to the prototype site). I'd guess that the photo.net folks are a bit reluctant to repair the mis-attribution thing if the forum won't be staying. As I understand it, there is also an issue of some missing posts from around the time of the move.

I've had a M7ii system for about a year and love it. Having used SLRs exclusively before, I found it took a couple of months to really get used to the rangefinder, but the quality, ease of use and quiet operation are worth the learning curve.<p>Also, for the record, the differences between the M7 and M7ii are (from Mamiya): <ul>

<li> The 7II permits multiple exposures<li> 7ii has a brighter rangefinder <li> M7ii has an easier to use dark slide curtain switch with flip-out twist wing and ratchet mechanism. <li>The 7ii cable release thread has been moved to the lower right corner (looking at the front of the camera), as opposed to upper left corner on the M7. <li>It comes in two colors, black and Champagne gold and each has "Mamiya" embossed in the rubber grip material. <li>The camera uses all of the current Mamiya 7 lenses and both models use the 35mm Panoramic Adapter. </ul>

<p>I found Ken Rockwell's M6 vs. M7 opinions to be somewhat unreasonable. Many of his objections (e.g. external finders for the 50mm and 43mm, collapsible lenses, rear lens caps) can be traced to the new (and better?) lens designs for the M7's and to the format change to 6x7. I think you'd like either camera about as well. I picked the M7 so I could use the 43mm lens (external finder notwithstanding).<p> Good luck!

I've used readyloads a fair amount here in Minnesota with no problems (you <i>are</i> using the new sigle-sheet film and holder, no?). <p>I would be sure to keep the film cold (i.e., <i>not</i> inside your coat), since snow on warm surfaces will melt and could ruin the film if it got wet. <p>You might test it by putting film and holder in you freezer for a while & test inserting & extracting the packet to see if it jams again. You might also want to examine the holder closely for any junk wedged in there that might hinder operation. Not sure if it can be easily disassembled or not.<p>Cheers

I live in Minnesota and used a BTZS cloth in sub-freezeing temps with no cracking last March or April. I bought my cloth early this year, so maybe they redesigned it since Tim bought his.

Just wanted to note that the product support for the Arcas in the USA

isn't all that horrible. I broke a spirit level when my F-line Field

blew over in the wind a month or so ago. I got a replacement level

vial in about a week after talking to both the Chicago rep and the

repair guy(who told me how to replace the level so I wouldn't have to

send the standard in). There was some delay in getting the call from

repair (confused by which was my home or work #), but all things

considered, it was a good experience. Bob, the repair guy, said he

had a pretty complete stock of parts and could turn things around

quickly, so I wouldn't be too concerned about support from them. The

vial cost $10, BTW.

I was faced with the same choice not long ago--I opted for the 110-

SSXL & the 72-SAXL. Coverage is better in the 72 than the 80, and I

got scared off by reports that the 80 was softer than I'd like. You

might have to get the center filter if you go with the 72 since you

are likely to use extreme movements. I've found it handy a few times

for architectural subjects, not so much for landscapes. The 72 is a

big lens: 95mm filter size & weighs twice as much as the 80XL.

<p>

The 110XL is an excellent lens, by the way. I don't own the center

filter for that one and so far haven't missed it. I chose it over the

120SA based solely on the weight difference, since I backpack it

occasionally. Coverage is advertised to be the same between the two.

<p>

Good luck!

I'm pretty new to LF, too, so others can can correct me on this if

I'm off. I've found that the thing to remember is that there is only

one plane of sharp focus no matter how much you tilt/swing/shift. The

photographer's job is to select the most advantageous plane of focus

with tils/swings & then stop down enough to bring things ouside this

plane into focus, if desired.

As told to me by Arca Swiss in an email, the Field parts are:

 

<p>

 

1 monorail: 30cm collapsible, incl. extension bracket 8.5cm (044130)

2 function carriers F -classic, front and rear (052000 and 052001)

1 format frame F-classic 6x9 front (061000)

1 format frame F-classic 4x5" rear (062001)

1 conical wide angle bellows, leather, 6x9/4x5" (071030)

1 film and ground glass holder incl. Fresnel (080007)

 

<p>

 

That matches my camera. I have other info on the F-line Field on my

web site at http://www.twestbrook.com/Photography/Large_Format/Arca-

Swiss/arca-swiss.html, if you're interested. I agree that it would

probably be cheaper to buy it from the US than assembling it from

parts from Rbt White.

I use one of the gel snap holders. With the 4x4 size, the max lens

outside diameter is 85mm (which is the size of the hole in the center

of the holder). The main problem with it is that it can send

vibrations to the camera since it's held onto the lens with a rubber

band. If there's any wind at all the holder wiggles around quite a

bit. If you use an umbrella or other wind deflector, it won't be too

bad. It is _much_ cheaper than the Lee screw-on type, though. One nice

thing about it is that you can slide it back & forth on the lens to

try to control any vignetting that might ocurr. It doesn't have any

projections in the front, so vignetting shouldn't be too much of a

problem. It also will not handle anything other than the 4x4 square

filters.

 

<p>

 

Hope that Helps

Tom

If it might be helpful, I've started to put some information on the

Arca-Swiss F-line Field camera on my web site at

http://www.twestbrook.com/Photography/Large_Format/Arca-Swiss/arca-

swiss.html. It's not too well organized or complete yet, but I have

most of the major points covered and include a few photos. It's not a

review, but a compilation of facts. If you see something I missed

that you want to know, just email me and I'll try to answer.

This must be a hopelessly 'newbie' question, since I haven't found the answer anywhere on the net or in 3 LF books (Kodak, Simmons, Stroebel). FYI, I don't have any lenses or lens boards, yet (hopefully I will next week).

 

<p>

 

Is mounting a lens in a lens board a critical or precision operation? How is it done? I'd guess the front/rear lens elements have to be separated to fit it in the hole in the lens board, so how does one know that the elements are spaced properly when putting them back together? Do different lens boards require different mounting techniques (I�ll be using Arca-Swiss 110mm boards)? Is it pretty much the same as mounting a lens on an enlarger board? What�s the accepted orientation of the shutter controls after mounting, or does it matter?

 

<p>

 

Thanks!

Thank you ever so, Walter, for the added confusion!

 

<p>

 

Actually, the 72 SA-XL lens has been on and off my list

intermittently from the start. It's pretty heavy (0.5kg) and the

filter size is huge (95mm). But it does have a lot of coverage and

its angle of view is just about right. I keep thinking I'll want to

backpack all of this equipment, but the truth is that I take 90% of

all my photos within a 1-2 hour walk from the car. So, the 72mm is

back on the short list.

 

<p>

 

Thanks for the input!

I'm trying to pick out lenses for my first LF outfit. I've decided (for now) on the Arca-Swiss F compact Field 4x5 (cf previous post a few weeks ago). Now I'm having one heck of a time trying to decide on lenses. Actually, I'm stuck deciding between the Schneider Super-Symmar 80mm XL & the Nikon 75mm f/4.5. Other lenses I have more-or-less settled on are the SS 110mm XL and the APO-Sironar S 150mm or 180mm.

 

<p>

 

I did go out and rent a Sinar F1 camera with 65mm, 90mm & 135mm Nikon lenses. I found the 65mm too wide for frequent use. The 90mm was good, but not wide enough in several situations (so I figured 110mm would be better in this range). So I thought a 75-80 might be just right for the extra-wide.

 

<p>

 

Anyway, I'd like to hear your comments on both the 80mm XL & the 75mm Nikon. My photo habits are about 60% landscape to 40% architecture/industrial, mostly in B+W, but about 20% color. The prices of both are about the same, so which will be better optically? As for coverage, the Nikon has 200mm image circle @ f/16�does anyone know what it is at f/22? The 80mm XL has advertised coverage of 212mm @ f/22. The max aperture on both is f/4.5. The Schneider weighs only about 60% as much as the Nikon. I've heard hints that the XL may not be the best optically, but have never seen any comparisons with other lenses or what the alleged optical problems might be (except maybe in light fall-off). Is the fall-off of the Nikon any less?

 

<p>

 

Thanks for the advice. You're the greatest!

Thanks all for you input.

 

<p>

 

I'll check out the Discovery again. One drawback with that camera (or

so I've read) is that you can't fit the other AS 'system' parts to

turn it into, say, a 5x7 in the future. Is that true? [i've been

tossing around the 5x7 option, too, but that's another story.] As for

weight the Field is 7lbs., the Classic (with the 4x5 front) is

7.5lbs., & the Discovery is 6.6 lbs. Weights vary depending on the

source used. These are from the Arca brochure, except the Field, which

is from B+H.

 

<p>

 

Anyway, for an education in LF, I found a place in town that rents LF,

but only Sinar f1, f2 & p2 and Horseman LX (which of those would be

closest to the AS, by the way?). I'll rent a camera for a few weekends

to get a better idea what my requirements are.

 

<p>

 

Thanks!

Tom

I'm totally new to large format (I don't even have a camera yet!), so apologies in advance if this is dumb. I've been looking around for a 4x5 camera that seems like it would be good for my uses (amateur; landscape & architecture mostly, but with a human being thrown in from time to time). I ran across the Arca F Field via Jack Dykinga's book, 'Large Format Nature Photography', and have a question about it I hope someone can answer.

 

<p>

 

The camera has a 6x9 front frame/standard and a 4x5 in the rear. Will the narrower bellows in the front restrict movements very much (if at all) or restrict the lenses that can be used with this camera (as compared with using the 4x5 front standard, that is)? I can't find info form the company on this one, but B+H doesn't mention

 

<p>

 

Thanks for the help!

Tom

Hi Andrew,

 

I got to thinking about it and I came to the same conclusions you did--be more careful! There is a section in the manual 'For preventing the film loose winding' (that manual is hilarious!). Matt in the Mamiya company forums said he didn't think he'd recommend keeping the film warm, though that's contradicted by Kodak's cold weather document http://www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/c9/c9.shtml. Mentions keeping film at room temp until you stick it in the camera. I can't imagine it would matter all that much since once the film is wound on the spool it'll reach air temperature pretty quickly.

 

So, I'll just be more carefull. I guess I was spoiled by the RB film path (it sort of reverse bends the film so things are a bit flatter by the time it hits the take-up spool).

 

Cheers,

Tom

I'm having a recurring issue with the film take-up in my M7II. Seems

that somehow the tape that holds the film to the backing is becoming

dislodged and bunches up on the take up reel. The film is then not

tightly rolled up at the bottom of the reel, so the end of the roll

sticks up past the reel flanges. It usually leads to fogging (if I

don't have a changing bag with me). Any clues what's causing this?

It's happened 3 times in the past month--once with Provia

(yesterday), once with TMX and once with FP4 (both a few weeks ago).

Never had this problem with my RB. Could it be a problem with

temperature? Yesterday it was 19F, the other two times, though were

in the 40s. I've had the camera for a month.

Thanks for all the reassuring replies. This is my first rangefinder, so the little oddities are a bit nerve-racking. I love this camera, though.

I posted this to the www.mamiya.com user forum, but wanted to try for

some [relatively] unbiased opinions here:

 

I just got a M7ii with 43mm & 80mm lenses to supplement my old RB Pro-

S outfit and noticed a warning in the M7ii manual (pg.13) about not

touching the coupling roller with the lens when inserting it (esp.

the wide lenses). The 43mm almost touches the roller even if you have

it shoved all the way over on the other side of the lens opening

(it's a pretty tight fit).

 

How much should I worry about this? Has anyone knocked things out of

alignment by rollong the roller when installing a wide angle lens?