Brian P Bower CamraScapes

For best results with flash, you need the full size Wimberley.

When using the Better Beamer flash extender with long lenses, most subjects will require the use of extension arms to elevate the flash above the lens to prevent red eye. Extension arms are normally affixed to the quick release plate under the long lens. With the large Wimberley, the flash will then be positioned above the lens and shadows will fall behind the subject.

 

When using the Sidekick, you mount your lens on its side and your flash extension arm, now horizontal, will position your flash to the other side of your lens, instead of on top. Shadows can now be seen off to the side.

Walking in the forest with the flash mounted above the lens is much easier than if your flash was sticking out to the side.<div></div>

The Delaware Water Gap offers a lot to explore and photograph. There are plenty of streams and waterfalls to photograph throughout the area. I also live in the Philadelphia area and make the trip up there several times a year. The temperature is usually 10-15 degrees cooler, making it an attractive destination during the heat of summer.

Here is a shot of Van Campens Brook, taken not far from the Old Mine Road, which runs parallel to the Delaware River on the NJ side.<div></div>

Rob,

You will not regret the addition of the wimberley for your 400/3.5 and longer lenses. I use the wimberley exclusively with my 200~400 F4 and 800 F5.6 for my wildlife and nature photography. The design makes pointing your lens at your subject effortless. Don't waste your time and money on anything else. I started with a studioball monoball, but now only use that when shooting from my vehicle. My wimberley is mounted on a gitzo 410. Please contact me to show you how to modify your wimberley, so you can mount your body and smaller lenses.

Christopher,

The neutral balance of my modified Wimberley is effected but easily compensated for. I can mount my 80-200 F2.8 on the upper clamp and forget it is there. There are times I do not have anything mounted on the second AS clamp. The unused AS clamp is there so I can easily attach the body, removed from my prime lens, with a lens that does not have a revolving tripod mount.

The setup does not need tweeking every time I move the body between lenses, when I am out in the field with only one body. Mounting a second body on the upper lens makes for quick shooting for close action subjects when the action takes place too close for your prime lens.

When the Wimberley head is used with Arca Swiss type quick release plates and clamps, you are able to balance any combination of long lens, body, motordrive battery pack and teleconverters for stability.

When properly balanced, your whole outfit is weightless and very easy to follow your subject. For stationary subjects, it is very easy to lock down for longer exposures. I started with a studioball ballhead and had my fingers pinched many times when my outfit flopped over. I still have the studioball but only use it for shooting from my vehicle. A major complaint with the Wimberley is that you cannot easily mount a body with a smaller lens. I modified my Wimberley, adding a second Arca Swiss clamp to the swinging arm. I can now mount a smaller lens or body with a wide angle mounted on it, as well as a flash extention pole to eliminate eyeshine. Having used both the Large ballhead and then the Wimberley, I will not use anything but the Wimberley.

Jeremiah,

I just came across this Bald eagle info on the state of NJ's web site. You will find some actual nest observations close to the bottom of the report titled "Raccoon Creek Telemetry Study". Go to http://www.state.nj.us/dep/fgw/98eglrpt.htm

Chasing after White-tailed deer with camera will never be very productive when they have been shot at with gun or bow. You will have much better luck locating animals that are not hunted and are used to people being around. Private reserves, enclosures and national parks are your best bet. Tomorrow I am driving 650 miles to Cades Cove in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park where 8 and 10 point bucks are common. I'll spend 2 weeks recording incredible action with the rut coming on and I'll get so much more than white-tails waving good bye. No Camo needed here.<div></div>

Without spending too much, my choice would be a Nikon 500 mm F8 mirror lens. Background highlights will be rendered as distracting circles, but this will not be a problem since you are interested in recording the details of the subject in the foreground. Mirror lenses deliver faithful color and excellent sharpness in a small package, only about 4 inches long, and weighing only 30 ounces. The F8 aperture is a limiting factor but by using a tripod and 400 ISO or faster films you should get satisfactory images.

I have seen these used lenses for sale at camera shows starting about $250 in great shape. Good luck.

I've camped at the cove for 2 weeks every fall to photograph deer. Over the past 5 years I've been there at different times from the middle of October to the end of November. Up until last year I had never even seen a bear in the cove. I was there during the second and third week of November when it was very warm, around 80 degrees. The bears were still in the cove feeding on walnuts when every other year they would normally be up in the mountains feeding on acorns and getting ready to hibernate.

It seems the only sure time to see bears in the cove is in the middle of August when every cherry tree has a bear in it. Any other time you'll need luck on your side. Take care and have a good time.

My favorite was Nikon's Soft 1, which compares to Tiffen's Soft FX 3. Both give an effect that is a little more noticeable than I prefer. My favorite now is Tiffen's Soft FX 2, just a hint of softness and glow without being too overpowering.

The ultrawide lenses take in so much sky, the meter will be overly effected by this brighter area. By tilting the camera down so your meter reads only the ground, use this setting in manual exposure mode after you return you camera to your original position. Your exposures should be more acceptable.

A graduated neutral density filter can even out the light levels between the brighter sky and darker ground. This way you won't have to choose between properly exposing the sky, or the ground.

I've been using the AS system with long lenses for eleven years and never had a mishap. The benefits are standarization, ease of use, balancing lens with different bodies-teleconverters and extention tubes, and being able to rest long lens on AS plate for stable ground shots when taken off tripod. I have even manufactured my own long lens plates, using my band saw to cut the required 45 degree angle from flat aluminum stock. Although it will not remedy your need for adapting older existing lenses, it would be nice to have Nikon and Canon machine their long lens tripod feet, and the base of their bodies with the Arca Swiss shape, thus eliminating the need for any additional plates at all. In my opinion, there is no other option than to use the AS system.

I've been a satisfied user of this lens for 9 years. When used with the gimble type wimberley head, the balance and handling is superb.

I had the 500 F4P lens but I traded up to a 600 F4 because it was too close to the 200~400 range. Now I use the 800 F5.6 with the 200~400.

Nikon has just announced the introduction of a 80~400 F4.5/5.6, lens. This could be a great alternative to trying to find the older 200~400 F4 ED. Go to this site to look over this lens. http://www.klt.co.jp/Nikon/Press_Release/vrlens.html Price unknown.

I'll be glad to answer any questions you have about this lens.

Take care, Brian

For serious bird photography, get yourself Arthur Morris's book

"The Art of Bird Photography", ISBN 0-8174-3303-1 . You will find all you need to know about bird photography presented by a master bird photographer who knows how to teach. His books are available on his web site, http://www.birdsasart.com/ .

Good luck, Brian

Fast lenses with either 122mm or 160mm front filter size use a smaller filter toward the rear of the lens. Tiffen makes a 52mm ND Graduated filter with the change going through the central portion of the filter. Most of the newer Nikkor AF lenses use this 52mm size, as do the manual focus Nikkor 400 2.8 and the 800 5.6 lenses. Most of the other Nikkor manual focus lenses use a special mount 39mm filter that most likely is not available in ND Grad. Through a filter dealer at a local photo show, I placed an order with Tiffen to make me an enhancing filter in the 39c size. After waiting 2 years, I cancelled the order when I traded my 600 F4, for a 800 5.6 lens. I'd still be waiting otherwise. I hope this info is usefull to you. Let me know how it works. Brian

Narendra,

I have used the TC-300 and the TC-14b combo before and didn't think it would be any different with your TC-301. The only way this combination could work is, Long lens, TC-301,TC-14b, camera body.

The TC-300 extends deeply into the long lens while the TC-14b extends only slightly, fitting onto the rear of your TC-301. I hope these answers have helped, especially the 8mm extention tube solution. Take care, Brian

No tube is necessary, Place the TC-301 on the lens first and then attatch the TC-14B between it and the body. You will be able to focus on infinity without an extention tube. Canon teleconverters require an extention tube spacer to fit together, not Nikon.

This past October 9th, I had the pleasure of spending the day with Arthur Morris in and around Cape May. Arthur had our group on Cape May beach 1/2 hour before sunrise. Flocks of Black Skimmers were feeding up and down the beach, and they continued this way right into a beautiful sunrise. For 10 or 15 minutes, we had the flocks winging and turning in front of the sun, giving us incredible sihlouettes. Our shooting time was increased due to a slight layer of clouds, which diffused the sunlight and added more color. I haven't been down to Cape May lately, so I can't tell you if they are still in the area. Take your long lens down to the beach and watch the sun rise, and maybe you'll be rewarded with some sunrise skimmers.

Good luck and good shooting, Brian P. Bower

Try using a lens reversing ring (Nikon BR-5 for 62mm filter size)with the 20mm wide angle, the reversed lens mounted directly on the body will give you a magnification of 3X, and even more when used with extention tubes or bellows.

An enlarging lens at the end of the bellows makes excellent images, especially the longer ones made for larger formats, such as a 80mm made for the 6x6 format, or the 135mm lens made for the 4x5 format. This will give you extra working distance with infinity focus. This will give you some of the benefits of the old 105mm nikon bellows lens, but without having to pay $300 or more for it.

Yes they are, and better for both the animals and the photographer. The habituated animal in a National Park is able to go about his important business of suvival in the wild, while we photographers are able to record these behaviors at close range. These animals are not hunted and they are not disturbed by our close presence.

 

Outside of these National Parks the animals are subject to many more dangers including hunting, and will not tolerate human intrusions into their habitat. In the process of getting some of your "TRUE WILDLIFE" shots, you will have exerted alot more time and effort while chasing after an animal.

The effort involved in your pursuit will be matched by the animals attempt to avoid you, forcing it to abandon it's daily routine required for survival. In winter this type of unneccessary expenditure of precious energy could be a death sentence to the animal trying to aviod you. And what kind of photos do you come back with? Mostly tail end shots of the animals running away from you, or if you are able to catch a glimpse of the animals eyes, they will probably have the look of fear and alarm.

 

In time, I hope you can learn to appreciate our National Parks, for the quality and quantity of photographic images that can be recorded there. If it makes you feel better to work harder for your images outside of the NP system then go ahead. Just try not to be out too long when it rains because you might drown with your nose so high.

I've had great results repeatedly with print sizes up to 16 x 20 and some exceptionally sharp images look great at 20 x 30, using the slower speed slide films and faithful tripod technique.

 

I use UCL photo for all of my prints from transparencies. Their prints are made directly from your original slide, type R, not from an internegative like most places do. See their advertisement in Shutterbug magazine's Photo Lab Showcase.

Happy shooting, Brian P. Bower camra@aol.com

 

UCL Photo

812 S La Brea Ave.

Los Angeles, CA 90036

1-800-933-2977

Cades Cove in the Smoky Mtns are a good bet in mid august. That is when the cherry trees are full of ripe fruit and bears. There are also several blueberry patches that are productive but you will have to put in time and effort to get any photos.

I was at Cades Cove July 18-20 and got some nice deer photos with the anlers in velvet. There were several bear sightings with cubs while I was there, but I didn't see any myself. The past 4 years, I have been in Cades Cove for one or two weeks each year to photograph whitetailed deer. I been in Cades Cove throughout November when the black bears are high in the mountains seeking acorns and their hibernation sites. In all that time I have not seen a bear there. Your best bet seems to watch the cherry trees in mid August. Bring your long lenses, alot of patience for the crowds, and some luck which we all need when taking wildlife photos. Take care

You could try putting your gear in your car several hours ahead of time, wrapped up in a blanket so it warms up slowly. If you are concearned about theft, you might put your equipment up in the attic of your home or apartment for a few hours. Again it will warm up slowly while wrapped in some kind of insulation, but in the safety

of your home.

The 18mm covers 100 degrees angle of view. On camera flash will not cover this wide angle of view. The filter size for the manual version is 72mm, compared to 77 with the AF version. The 3.5 manual version also has the color coded f stops marked on the barrel to facilitate hyperfocal distance focusing, not possible with AF 2.8 .

I just bought one used for $600, so my vote goes for the manual.