dick roadnight cotswolds

If you want an Ultra-wide angle of view, get a Schneider Super Angulon 47XL, which will give you about 116 degrees horizontal on a (Canham) 6 *17 cm roll film back, on a 5*7 inch view camera with sunken lens board and bag bellows.

This is a useful combination, but I think that the minimum cost of this new would be about £3,000!

Mounting an LF lens on a MF body is �no� problem:

I have attached my Hasselblad 555ELD to one end of My Sinar p, and a 600mm lens to the other, and got a picture:

this is not wide angle,

you need a shutter (or an MF SLR with a focal plane shutter)

LF lenses do not have good enough resolution to be of much use on 66, unless you need the coverage for movements.

This is, of course one way of getting the some LF type movements with an SLR viewfinder and motor-drive � great for waders on a shore, or pedestrians on a long pavement.

This system is also expensive.

You can, of course put the Magazine straight on the back of the Sinar, (with the adaptor) but you do not get the SLR viewfinder or the MD, or the TTL flash metering.

Because of the lack of resolution of the LF lenses, I am thinking of mounting my Novoflex 35mm lenses (640mm f9, and 400 f5.6) on my Sinar p with a 24 x36 mm CCD digiback and electronic shutter. This is possible, as the aperture diaphragm is behind the rear element, and the lens comes apart in several places � this would give hi-res pics (42Mpixels in 16-shot) with a narrow angle of view, and movements.

Ken:

Do you know of any adaptors that enable one to use the image circle of the 'blad lenses to give you movements with 35mm SLRs, or a 24*36mm CCD on a Digiflex2?

Q.G.

Thanks...

I note that the Flexbody is not listed as been compatible with the Eyelike, but I would have thought that it would have been.

This is of particular interest to me, as I had hoped to use the relatively large image circles of my 'blad lenses to give me movements on the 24*36mm CCD.

Do you know of any reason why the Flexbody may not be compatable with the Eyelike?

Try a Hasselblad 555 ELD with 120/150/250 or a tele-rollei TLR (if you can find one).

Photography, particularly portraiture/fashion is mostly sales, PR and hot air, but a quality product can help.

If you feel you need auto-focus you may consider the Rollei 6008AF or the Hasselblad H1.

Search for

shift Perspective Control architecture MF tilt PC

Top of the list is a thread about the 75mm shift lens mentioned above.

Some of the better old folders had shift, but I do not know if any of them were very wide angle.

MF is only good for Architecture if you have a range of roll film backs, a view camera, and a range of lenses - versatile... not cheap or portable, but cost effective compared to quality SLR MF kit.

Barry is right about rotating the tray to slide 1 before removing the tray.

Press edit/reset

pointer on right of machine points to 1.

the clip on the left is oposite the gap in the skirt of the tray -

unlock and remove.

Hi - I have the same lenses as Brandon - 40, 80, 120, 250, and 555 ELD and Flexbody.

You may be interested in my thread:

"101 ways not to get a photograph with a Hasselblad"

dated 24/2/2002

This thread is of interest to many people, not only the originator... and for anyone with limited funds to start in MF they should ask:

How old are they?

How will their finantial status change over the next decade of two?

Do they want a simple camera, or to a start a camera system?

What do you want to photograph with it?

A system camera is wasted if you will only ever get one lens for it.

People appreciate quality and versatility, which is why C330's are so affordable - I was very glad to get rid of mine.

You could use a C330 (or an MF folder) for landscape and 35mm for macro, birds etc...

The type of photography you want to do cries out for an MF SLR, and a LF view camera for the landscapes - but this would not be very portable, luggable or affordable.

Are there any any loose elements in the lens?

Does the distortion move round if you rotate the lens?

Is the test slide absolutely flat?

Does the problem move round the screen if you re-orientate the silde?

Can you get the image in focus by moving the screen?

Do you need a lens carrier with that lens?

can you move the lens, and does it affect he image?

So... it could be:

the projector,

the adjustment of the bulb position.

The slide

The positioning of the slide

The condensors - do you need special condensors for that lens?

The arrangement of the condensors

The lens

The positioning of the lens

The perpendiculararity of the screen

A fair way to compare lenses would be to calculate the total resolution - lp/mm * Image circle area.

When what we now call large format was all there was, they assessed all formats on the assumption that the end result would be a 10 * 8 print - now it is not logical to use LF unless you intend to make big enlargements.

It is difficult to make a lens with a 500mm image circle that can give you as many lp/mm as a 35mm lens, (70-100) but that should be the ideal to which they strive.

If you photograph a group of hundreds of people, you would like to be able to produce a sharp 10 * 8 print of each face in the picture.

I used to use a rollei 35 pocket camera as part of my Nikon kit - and you would get smilar advantages supplementing a 'bald kit with a rolliflex:

It is ever-ready.

It is a very usefull additional body which would be a spare and save 'blad lens changes.

I seldom use my 80mm lens, so I would rarely use a rollieflex, but I would like to acquire a telle-rollie - this would be mainly for out-of-studio portraiture so I would miss the TTL flash facility.

The lack of a mirror is one of the main advantages I would appreciate.

66/67 is not big enough for serious landscape work, but a Hasselblad with 40mm/80mm and 120 Macro-Planar (if you need macro) would be a good compromise.

I use a 555 ELD, 500 and Flexbody, you may find a Flexbody useful for Plane of sharpest focus manipulation for habitat and landscape.

For landscape of wildlife you may want to add longer lenses.

You have not been specific about what you will use it for, but I expect you will need an SLR or a View camera, and with this kit, you will have both.

>To get the best possible definition out of your lens shoot at it�s optimum aperture.

>>�What lighting setup do you recommend. I paint in acrylic with an impasto style so there is a slightly raised surface?�

Ideally use flash � it is a consistent light source and will give you consistent results, whatever the weather.

For flat matt paintings e.g. watercolour, flash photography is easy � one flash each side@ 45% to camera lens axis.

For oils or acrylics flatten the angle and use diffusers/light boxes etc to soften the light.

You can use a sheet of paper as a diffuser, and if you do not have two matched flashes, you can use the same one twice!

>>� What film do you recommend and at what speed? Should I shoot trannies. The colours are sometimes vibrant, sometimes muted so Velvia might not be my only choice?�

Any transparency film will enhance contrast (especially Velvia), so, if your painting are contrasty, you my lose highlight or shadow detail. Sensia would have lower contrast, (but I have never used it), and Provia might be a good compromise.

If you camera has movements, keep the film plane parallel to the picture.

OT � you can use movements to correct or create perspective, or (if photographing through glass) to avoid photographing the camera�s reflection.

See thread:

"More than one flash with Hasselblad"

Use high contrast for enhancing the wrinkles on elderly subjects, or soft lighting.

I like sharp, high-definition portraits, but if you use high-contrast film you have to minimise the range of brightness in the subject - e.g. blonde in light coloured cloathing.

I would have thought that a Hasselblad expert might have chipped in by now.

I think that there is no interlock to prevent the film advancing before the end of the exposure - and you have to keep the button pressed until the end of the exposeure, and the camera winds on when you release the button - try it - I think there is something in the manual about it.

Is it a Hasselblad, 3rd party or DIY part?

If it is 4x5cm it may be the dimentions of a CCD (I do not know of one exactly that size).

More likely it is for cropped copies for printing 5x4 or 10x8 inches.

They could be correcting perspective at the same time, and the mask would help, and could be used with a grid.

Maybe your friend regards the Flexbody as a lightweight alternative to a 5x4 inch camera, and prefers the 5:4 ratio to the square?