the the

Because in P mode, the flash is the primary light source, whereas in Av mode, the flash is used only to fill. The slow shutter speed is necessary to get the background exposed properly.

I would get the 85mm.

I would suggest an EX series flash, as it will be fully compatible with the 10D's metering system.

The 10D has a list price of $3200 in Canada, but the most popular retail price is $2499. The 300D may list for $1900, but I can't imagine it actually selling for that amount. Ideally, it would go for $1200, but it will probably cost somewhere in the $1500 range, give or take a few bucks.

It's hard to give any reason why the Elan7 is better than the Nikon F80, or vice versa. In the end, it comes down to your preference in terms of the little differences between each body or brand. For example, you may prefer Canon lenses to Nikon lenses, Nikon flashes to Canon flashes, etc. Or, perhaps you prefer one body's custom functions to the other. Make a tally of the things you want from your camera, and compare this list to what each of your options actually provide. I think this is the best way to determine which one you will want to buy.

Thang is right, Eric. The crop factor will not bring you closer to the subject, it will just make the subject fill more of the frame than it would with a 35mm film camera.

This all depends on how far, and how close, you want to photograph subjects without changing the lens.

 

Personally, I would be interested in having a zoom that is capable of going 24mm at the wide end, and at least 70mm in the telephoto end. This leaves a couple of options, the first and cheapest being the 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, and the second and more expensive being the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM. You can go longer if you don't mind only 28mm at the wide end, and get the 28-105 f3.5-4.5, which is highly regarded, or you can get the 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM. These should be very versatile for your purposes.

 

 

I generally use a 28mm or 50mm prime on the street. For crowd situations, or when I can't get close to a subject, I've thrown on a 100mm prime on occasion. Would I benefit from a longer lens? Probably. But I wouldn't want to leave a long lens on my camera and lose my wide angle capabilities. I would much prefer a 24-85mm or 24-70mm, or even the 28-105mm and 28-135mm zooms over something that gets me up to 200mm but compromises heavily at the wider ends. But that is just my style preferences.

Pray.

The shadow is cast by the lens, and in this case the bulk caused by the lens hood, over the bottom portion of your image. The only way to get around this problem is to remove the lens hood and see if that helps. If it doesn't (pop-up flashes, because they cover a fixed range -in this case 28mm- will produce shadows when a longer lens is attached to the camera), then you need to get a dedicated speedlight, such as the 420EX.

To answer your questions about Max 400, the answer would be that yes, it is "*that* crappy" for portraits. I have had some success with that film in the past, mostly for night time photography, but I stay as far from it as I possibly can.

 

If you want to take portraits, try Kodak's Portra range. It may cost more, but you will find that it will yield superior results.

YES! There will be! Just not this year.

For wide open aperture I'd say that photo isn't too shabby.

Out of all of those options, based on quality, I would suggest the Canon 28 f/2.8. If you want a 24mm, I don't think the Sigma is the right option; you would most likely be better off saving up for the Canon 24mm. Stay away from the cheap zooms for landscapes.

Yes, and no.

 

I find that the joint creaks and flexes if you apply pressure to it, but under normal shooting conditions it isn't very noticeable and has yet to fail. I tighten the screw as bravely as I can, and ignore it until the batteries need changing. So far so good.

It is probably etched on the black surface just on the inside of the mounting ring, next to the rear element. This is where it is located on all my lenses, such as the 100mm f/2 and the 50mm f/1.8.

 

I hope that wasn't too ambiguous.

Ryan,

 

I think the 50 1.8 is a much better value than the 50 1.4. Unless you want the micro-USM motor, the better construction, and the slightly faster optics, I would just get the 50 1.8 and use the remaining money for other lenses.

I always figured this was the one question to which everyone knew the answer.

Wrong forum.

 

This should be posted in the classifieds.

I like the 100mmm, but that's because I prefer a longer portrait lens over a shorter protrait lens. For me, 85mm is a bit too close to 50mm for my liking. A 135mm would be even better.

I think you should start out with something simple.

 

Get the 28mm 1.8 if you are only going to buy one lens.

When I bought an AF camera I thought I'd continue focusing manually. Not a chance. I'm a convert.

Well, the concept of a good all-around lens is somewhat ambiguous. I would argue that a 50mm 1.8 would make a good all-around lens. I can get by with just this lens if I have too. But I am sure you had something different in mind, though.

 

I think the 24-85 would be a good suggestion. While you won't get the long end that the 28-135 IS USM would offer, the extra 4mm at the wide end will open up a lot of doors in wide angle photography. Personally, I'd rather have a wider lens than a longer lens, so I vote for the 24-85.

This is very common. Ignore it until it starts to become noticeable in your photos.

Macman:

 

I am not reffering to Carman's website, I am referring to their offerings on Ebay, which tend to be much cheaper. Sometimes they have good prices, somtimes they don't. It's a crap shoot. But, for a store in Canada, they do offer competitive prices on some products.

I think you will find that most of the retailers will sell it for about $2499. Vistek and Henry's have some of the better prices around.

 

You might want to try Carman's Foto Source. Check out their Ebay deals. You never know, they may be selling a 10D on Ebay for cheap. I've bought from them before and I find them completely reputable.