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bert_keuken

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Posts posted by bert_keuken

  1. You need an SCA 351 adapter (according to www.metz.de) for the R6.2. For the M6TTL you need an SCA 3502 adapter (also according to www.metz.de).

     

    From the FAQ at www.metz.de:

    What is the difference between the SCA 300 and the SCA 3000 systems?

     

    The SCA 300 system processes analogue signals, whereas the SCA 3000 is a digital system. Furthermore, flash special functions are made possible through exchange of additional digital data (unless these functions can be adjusted on the camera itself). The flash units of the SCA 3000 system are backward compatible and can also be equipped with SCA 300 adapters. On the other hand, the SCA 3000 adapters are not suitable for SCA 300 flash units without further modifications. The only possibility to connect a SCA 3000 adapter is to the pole-mounted versions of the flash units of the SCA 300 system with help of the connection cable SCA 3000 C. However in this case it is no longer possible to use all of the functions of the given adapter.

  2. Yes Brian, 1 part of Rodinal plus 100 parts of water. You end up with 101 parts total.

     

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    Have tried a number of times some years back, results in very fine grained negs. Expose as ISO 25, bring your tripod or shoot outside with on a bright day!

     

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    Agitation: continuously during first minute, then once every 30 seconds.

     

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    Success!

     

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    BTW, Technical Pan might be too sharp for portraits...

  3. I can relate to the feeling the camera gives you. I have the same feeling like you.

     

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    I traded a Canon T90 plus 5 lenses for a Leica M4 plus 35 Summaron. Since then I replaced the M4 plus Summaron for an M6 classic (bought new in 1992) and 4 lenses (28/2.8, 35/2.0, 50/2.0, 90/2.0).

     

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    I can say I shoot sharp pictures now, focussing on a ground glass just isn't my cup of tea. I also found out I didn't use nor need the feature overload of the all singing-all dancing T90.

  4. <i>I got sick of all the childish bickering...</i>

     

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    So did I and what made me unsubscribe was the fact that there is a number of people thinking they own the LUG to such extent that they can't suppress the urge to respond to every question asked.

     

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    While there's a lot of knowledge to be found among the LUG'ers I find the high volume of off-topic subjects quite annoying.

  5. Perhaps it is this, I remember something similar being asked on the LUG a few years back. I hope it's a simple fix...

     

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    > About 3 rolls of film ago, the film advance stuck on the 12th frame of the

    > roll. As I moved the lever, there was increasing pressure and ultimately the

    > film wouldn't advance. I figured I had a bad roll of film and switched

    > brands. Next roll had the same problem --somewhere between the 10th and 15th

    > frame was a multiple exposure.

    >

    > I tried a third roll, being extra careful not to inadvertently touch the

    > rewind lever. Same problem at about frame 12-- the film wouldn't advance.

    >

    > The first frames on each roll are centered and sharp when developed, so I

    > doubt that "crooked" loading is involved. It doesn't seem to be the film.

    > When there's no film in the body, the lever/shutter/number operation also

    > work without problem. I thought maybe the film was slipping when a roll was

    > in the camera between use, but that wouldn't explain the resistance on the

    > lever, I think. While I guess it could be the rewind lever (perhaps putting

    > the camera in my bag or taking it out) I've been careful to avoid that.

    >

    > Anyone ever have this problem? Even if not, any bright ideas --other than

    > the supernatural?

     

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    The problem is caused by a nut in the rewind crank mechanism which, once

    loose,

    will gradually move, with each successive advance of the film, up a

    threaded shaft

    until, at the end of its travel, it tightens up against the rewind

    crank, locking it in place, rendering film advance impossible. Rewinding

    the film loosens the nut, temporarily.

     

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    And this one:

     

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    > i was winding away and came to the end of the roll, although i was only on

    > frame 15. put another roll in, wound through 10 frames and it refused to

    > advance any further. rewound, tried again, ten frames and it refuses to

    > advance further; first ten go along smoothly though. opened the back and

    > bottom, ran a roll through, it still stopped after ten frames, couldn't

    > figure out why

     

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    I've had this failure on one of mine and it's a simple fix .

    Your pb is probably due to the rewind nut , right under

    the rewind button , that is un-winding itself when you

    arm the shutter.

  6. To be more precise Pat, the verb is "messen" which translates to "to measure". I don't don't understand why you can't get the triple 's'. There's nothing to get about it, that's the way the Germans write it. Just to add to your confusion, it's also possible to write it as "Meßsucher".
  7. If you want to read more about Tim Page I can recommend his book "Derailed in Uncle Ho's Victory Garden". His book "Page after Page" is out of print, I'm still on the lookout for that one. Lastly there's an TV movie about Tim Page's Vietnam war exploits titled "Frankie's House" starring Iain Glen and Kevin Dillon (Leica's galore!).
  8. Had the same problem after(!) I had my M6 (10 years this summer also) CLA'd. Faster speeds worked fine, on slower speeds the shutter didn't fully close. Sent it back with a complaint that I didn't expect this to happen right after a CLA. It was repaired free of charge and they even touched up the red paint in the lens release button and two marks that were the result of opening the camera for the CLA.

     

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    Send it in for a CLA, after 10 years it can use a CLA. The beauty of a mechanical camera is that it can almost always be repaired. It's certainly still worth it.

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