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<p>You friend is not William Prince by chance?</p>

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<p>The rule of Sunny 16 says that in bright direct sunlight to set the camera aperture to f/16 and the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the ISO (ASA). For example for 100 ISO, use f/16 at 1/100 sec. A full moon is in direct bright sunlight so the rule of Sunny16 should apply on the moon as well. It is sometimes suggested that for moon shots you should change the f/16 to f/11.</p>

<p>I personally do not know any famous photographers but I feel absolutely certain that there is not a single famous photographer that would not have used a stepladder if he/she felt that the ladder would give them the point of view they wanted or needed.</p>

<p>I’m 74 and 6’2” and yes I have taken a stepladder to a photoshoot. Recently shot a photo where I am going back with a stepladder for a redo because I need the extra height. It's a tool. If you need it why not use it.</p>

<p>(first paragraph deleted for the sake of diplomacy)<br>

I personally enjoyed using the multiple exposure. The camera took a meter reading and did all the math calculations splitting into the number of exposures you set. That was convenient. I have several posted to my portfolios.</p>

<p>Bill, I have been taking photographs for over sixty years. I have no intentions of wasting my time with minutia nor worrying about how far away someone needs to stands to see my photographs. So, no, I don't think it would change my mind. There are a lot more important things to be concerned with in photography.</p>

<p>Calvin, lenses are immaterial—a lot of what we worry about in photography is immaterial. Good people pictures come from rapport with the subject—and recognizing light that is directional and flattering. The several hundred people pictures I have posted are shot with everything from 17mm to 200mm. Less than two percent have supplemental lighting. Keep it as simple as possible and find the composition for the lens that you have on the camera. As Jeff say, make the person the most important object in the photograph. Do that and the lens is, immaterial.</p>

<p>As a widower I eat out frequently. I almost always take photographs. It began six or so years ago photographing my wife when we ate out. To an extent this is a continuation of that project.</p><div></div>

<p>Fundamental: Basic reason, primary reason, original reason, elementary reason, deep-seated reason, underlying reason—take your pick. Each has a slightly different connotation but most work within the context of the question.</p>

<p>The vast majority of photographs taken are snapshots therefore for the vast majority they are fundamentally made as an aid to memory. Beyond that there are as many reasons as there are photographers. As an example some photographers have this thing for derrieres. Really big derrieres.</p>

<p>To go a little farther on what is suggested and said in the above replies: David duChemin made an important statement in his book Within the Frame that seems to apply to the <em>professional</em> photographers you mention. To paraphrase duChemin; we have a great deal of latitude in getting the correct exposure in the camera, but we have a very limited latitude putting our vision into the photograph. (unquote) The histogram is a aid, a mechanical device and mechanical devices seldom product art. The <em>correct exposure </em>is the exposure that conveys the photographer's vision and that can mean that a successful photograph can even be composed almost entirely of blown highlights or plugged shadows when that fits the photographer’s vision. The photographer should be in charge, not the camera or any other mechanical device, including the histogram. I have a great deal of respect for the histogram and use it frequently but IMO photography was much more exciting, much richer before we had the conformity created by devotion to these devices.</p>

<p>Put a piece of electrical over the metal on the stand holder.</p>

<p>If I may echo Siegfried's post. I state in my bio that I do not critique or comment on photographs that do not have a statement of intent from the photographer. It is a critique forum, if you post a photo it is assumed you need it critiqued or wish it critiqued. It is not necessary to say that comments are welcome or please critique. If they are not they shouldn’t be on a critique forum.<br>

Tell me what you wish for the photograph to convey and I have a starting point to determine how successful it is. Ask specifically what you wish to learn from the critique and if I can answer that I will. Without that I simply assume that you wish to be told how great your photograph is and frankly I don't have time for that. Critiquing a photograph can take from fifteen minutes to more than a day so if I do not know what you need I am not going to waste my time trying to guess. I go down the ALL less nudes filter because I do not comment on nudes. I read what the photographer says. If there is something to work with I look at the photo. So without a statement of intent or need I may not even see the photo. Needless to say, few offer a statement so I do not do many critiques these days. </p>

<p>Sara, Stephen's advice is excellent. As a 'beginner' you are in a unique position to be your own photographer. Basically you have two choices, photograph what you a pasionate about, what you interested in, what affects you emotionally or you can be a carbon copy of all the thousands, okay millions, of other photographers creating art by formula. Go out. Photograph your passion and you will discover what you need to learn--then learn. As Stephen says, it is not the camera or the software, it is the photographer. You will become a much better photographer following Stephen's recommendations. And if I may add, take most of what you read on internet forums and get from camera clubs with a substantional grain of salt. Weigh it before you swallow it.</p>

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<p>What you have drawn is referred to as a Camera Stand. They are designed for studio work with still cameras, they are very heavy. There are not many manufacturers of camera stands and they are generally expensive compared to tripods. I suppose they could be used for video work but would not be nearly as convenient to a tripod designed for video.</p>

 

<p>I don't think your question has enough merit to answer.</p>

<p>And I suppose all of your work is super. Geeze let other people photograph what they want to photograph and worry more about what you are doing. Why is it any of your business anyway? End of my rant.</p>

<p>Don't know what is wrong but the built-in meter doesn't work very well on my camera when I am set on Manual mode. Must be broken. I have to do a test shot in one of the other modes and then make all the setting myself when in Manual. Real hassel.</p>

<p>Norris, when talking about "better low light performance" does not mean light collecting abilities. It means generally that there is less digital noise in some sensor/algorithm combinations or possibly better dynamic range in some cameras than others. The size of the sensor often does influence that ability. </p>

<p>F/16 is f/16 regardless of what the sensor size or even what the film size is. The size of the physical opening is related to the focal length of the lens. F/16 for a 7mm lens on a digital four-thirds camera is tiny; on an 8x10 view camera it is very large. You could possibly pass the entire aforementioned 7mm lens through the opening on the 8x10. F16 lets in the same amount of light strike the sensor or the film on both. 1/125 sec is 1/125 sec regardless. So, yes, the rule of Sunny 16 works equally well on any and all cameras.</p>

<p>Light meters, reflective or incident, do not work on f-stops and shutter speeds. Meters only know Exposure Values which they convert to f-stops and shutter speeds based on information that has been input. The Rule of Sunny 16 for an ISO of 100 is EV 15. In Shutter Priority you select a shutter speed and the meter will select the f-stop that corresponds to EV 15 at that shutter speed; in Aperture Priority the meter will select the shutter speed that corresponds to EV 15 at the aperture you selected.</p>

<p>If UPS would ever get it here I'd be glad to share. Went from the D200 to the D700 probably three years ago. Love it. Ordered the EM5 becuase I am tired of carrying the weight. May not like it, don't know. If I don't I may go to the Fuji, may go to the D600. If I do i've got a couple of lenses on the want list and an adapter so I can use my Leica lenses and maybe my Nikon. I'm ready for small, lightweight and quiet.</p>

<p>Did this in 1947 with the first roll of film I ever shot on my own. I was using my mother's Kodak Brownie Target 616. I still have the portion of the one frame that was not totally ruined. Probably had I not opened the camera I would not have kept the shot of my third grade class on the lawn in front of the school. Even though I treasure this one partial frame it taught me never to do it again. It also taught my mother not to tell me there were only four frames on the roll because she didn't want me to use up her film. Just one of life's little lessons.</p>

<p>Hoi, you make a very good assumption about backing off and cropping. There are three things that affects depth of field: focal lenght of lens, aperture and distance. But there is only one thing that really governs DOF and that is the size of the image on the sensor.<br>

You mention that you are shooting with a 50mm but that you have available a 105mm. You do not say how close you are shooting but let's assume 2.5 feet. If you switch to the 105mm, still at f/8, shooting from 5' you will get almost identical dof to what you are now getting with the 50mm at 2.5 feet. You have two options: go to a smaller aperture or increase distance.<br>

A 50mm lens on F/8 at 2.5 feet is going to give you identical DOF to a 100mm lens on f/8 at 5 feet because the image size will be the same. The 105mm at 5 feet will be slightly less dof because it is slightly more than double the focal length of the 50mm.<br>

Acording to DOF Master on-line calculator for the Nikon D300<br>

50mm. f/8 at 2.5 feet has a dof of 0.23’ or 2.76 (2 3/4) inches<br>

105mm, f/8 at 5 feet has a dof of 0.21’ or 2.52 (2 1/2) inches<br>

Here is the link: <a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html">http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html</a></p>