madhu1

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Self-portraits that reveal something about us; even those that don't<div></div>

Funny, I just posted a follow-up and it didn't get posted. Sorry if

both get posted later.

 

But you were right........one can't lock both focus and partial

metering with a one button operation. So the only way around

seems to be either using the M mode, or using 2 buttons.

 

That seems to be a shortcoming with the 20D as well.

Why not use partial metering in AV all the time with focus set by

the center point and CF4 set to 0? You'll have to focus and

recompose, but you seem to do that anyway. The only difference

between doing that in 10D and what you used to in EOS50 is that

in the 10D you cannot combine partial metering with any

focusing point other than in the center.

 

Also, and this may be the cause of your troubles, just make sure

you have safety shift diabled (CF16).

I'm wondering what'll happen if we always leave the 20D in the

"ON" mode with the auto shut-off set to, say, 1 minute. How

much power does it consume in that sleep mode? Negligible?

Also, the manual says switch 20D to "off" before removing the CF

card. Is that necessary? Or can we safely remove the card

and/or insert it when the 20D is in its sleep mode?

 

In case you are wondering why, I fear that the on/off switch is

rather likely to be the first to break over time, unlike the switch on

the Digital Rebel. Also, it'll be one less thing to do before we

start shooting if we leave it always "on".

 

So are you leaving your 20D, or other applicable eos dslrs, "on"

all the time?

 

Madhu

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Gustavo, Jim, I have an Elan 7E and it has the ability to link

metering with focusing points. So should the Elan 7; check out

custom function 8. This is rather old; even the earlier Elan II had

that available.

From what I've read, one can only link evaluative metering, but

not partial metering, with the active focus point in the 20D. Is that

true or did I miss something?

 

If true, is that another way of Canon distinguishing the pro

cameras (since its' available on the 1D models) from the rest?

But they have that available on the non-pro Elans! So are we still

stuck with metering and recomposing (in partial mode) with the

20D as well - defeating some of the utility of the 9 focus points?

I forgot..........in case there are no peaks, can you help me name the place

where I took the shots from? All shots were taken from the South rim. Thanks

again. </p>

 

Madhu

Hi Folks,</p>

 

Could someone help me correctly identify the names of any of the peaks in

the shots of the Grand Canyon I've uploaded <a href="http://www.photo.net/

photodb/folder?folder_id=396075">in this folder</a>? Thanks a bunch.</p>

 

Madhu

What I see in the bottom window-bar is of the form http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=xxxxxxx where the x's are numbers; not the name of the shot. Could it be a PC/Mac issue?

Is it possible to set up the folders so the names of the shots are <b>

always</b> displayed above/below the shots? Currently, when I click on

a folder to view its contents, the names of the photos appear briefly

before getting covered up by the photos themselves. Often, to me at

least, knowing the title a photographer gave his/her picture adds

significantly to its value either thru' added information, a different

perspective, the photog's intent, etc. So, can the names be made

always visible when viewing the folders, or is a programming nightmare

to accomplish? </p>Regrets if this has already been thrashed out; but

my googling failed to uncover it.</p>Madhu

Try custom function 6, option 1. It seems to control both in-focus beeps and timer countdown beeps. Heres' an <a href="http://photonotes.org/manuals/eos-elan/">on-line manual</a> for the Elan/100.

Here's <a href="http://www.photo.net/shared/community-member?user_id=244914">the link to Amy's work</a> - hope it works this time!

Are you familiar with <a href+"http://www.photo.net/shared/community-member?user_id=244914">Amy Power's work</a>? If you like it, perhaps she can help.

Hi Anand, <p>I've used <a href="http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=100&itemid=315"><b>Manfrotto's QR</b></a> for years now, and have been quite happy with them. They are sturdy, light, dependable, and well under $30. But do take your ballhead to the shop and try them out first.

Great work, Robert. And looking at your folders, I think most of your work is best shot with either an 85mm 1.8 or 100mm 2.0; both lenses have nice bokeh, allow decent camera-subject distance, sharpness, et. al. I have the 100mm, and its just great! As for zooms to be used in corners-sans-mobility, you'd probably find more use for the 70-210 than the 24-70. Hope that helps.

Hi Jim,

 

Theres' a tiny error in the link you provided. Here's the rectified <a href="http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=149367&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1">link</a>. Hopefully, this will work :-)

Zoran,

Since Peter has already raised the prospect of 2 flashes, why not consider the followin? How about two 420 flashes controlled by an on-camera ST-E2 (instead of either two 550s or one 550 and one 420)? The price of a 420 *AND* the ST-E2 is about what you'll pay for a 550 anyway. But, for some loss of features/power, you gain great flexibility in flash-placement.

Its' possible that your 7e is a lemon. But before so concluding, ensure that (1) you are comparing your camera with your sister's using the *same* lens, position, and subject combination and (2) in addition to what Puppy Face said, remember that the top and bottom sensors need vertical subjects to function whereas the two sensors on the left and right of center need horizontal subjects. If you try focusing on a horizontal subject with the top or bottom sensor, the 7e won't focus. Only the center focusing sensor is sensitive to both vertical and horizontal patterns. Hope that helps.

Marc, I've been using <a href="http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/templates.php3?sectionid=100&itemid=315">this</a> QRP from Bogen for over 7 years now. It has a safety lock pin, works great, and haven't heard anyone complain about it yet. Pretty affordable as well.

If you are handholding the camera:

 

1. Use the custom functions and set the sync speed to 125

 

2. Set the dial to AV mode. Using DOF preview function, set the desired aperture.

 

3. Adjust flash bounce-angle, and shoot away

 

Here is a much better method that truly draws on the brains of the E-TTL functions. But, in low light situations, you will need a tripod and your subjects will have to be relatively motionless. First, use the custom functions again and link metering to the active focusing point. Then.....

 

1. Set the dial to M mode.

 

2. Focus on the background and correctly expose it ensuring you have desired DOF

 

3. Adjust and set your flash-bounce angle (once set, it shouldn't be changed from the next step onwards).

 

4. Now focus on your subjects using any focusing point

 

5. Press on the FE lock button; the flash will emit a brief light and lock exposure (also, a * will show in your viewfinder)

 

6. Take the picture

 

I know that sounds elaborate but try it out, it isn't. This way, the camera's manual metering will expose for the background and the flash will expose for your subject.

 

BTW, doesn't 550EX let you flash-bracket your pics? If so, use it and one of the resulting shots will be a keeper!

 

Madhu