ruben leal

There is also the DOF difference. With an APS-C you have more DOF at the same FL and aperture, giving you an

advantage when trying to focus a moving target in low light with the high magnification of a long lens.

Steve, as stated in previous posts, this is a feature of the RAW development software. If you let us know the software you

are using, we could help you find the way to turn it off. In the meanwhile, this is a visual alert that let's you know your

shadows and/or highlights won't show when you print the image, but these won't appear in the processed file, so there's

no problem if you leave the alert turned on.

Thanks David, I guess you are correct on identifying DLO as a diferentiator. Currently I use DPP's DLO as part of my post

processing workflow, at least for my lenses available in Canon's database (16-35, 24-105, etc, but unfortunately only

available for my 7D and not for my old 20D).

I been thinking between switching my 7D for a "full frame" or adding a wider lens than my 16-35mm (and postponing the

decision as 16mm on an APS-C format camera is a bit wider than the widest I could reach when I used a 28-135mm with

my Elan 7e back in my days of 135 format film photography). I'm considering one of the 11-16mm f/2.8 Tokina zooms, so

not exactly your EF-S lens, but I believe quite similar.

Could you try to remember what were the problems you had with the 7D + 10-22 combo, and share with us?

Has been a while since I owned a Sigma lens (20mm f/1.8), and my memory may be wrong, but I believe their focus ring

rotate backwards from a Canon perspective. This may not be a problem when you are using a single lens, or when doing

landscapes, but may be an issue when rapidly switching lenses and trying to quickly focus manually. I do feel even

Canon should standardize their lenses, as the L lenses have the zoom and focus rings in different positions than the non-

L lenses, causing confusion when switching lenses in a hurry.

Hi Mark, I believe I had this problem in

the past, and the only way to correct it

was upgrading to the newest version of

DPP.

Maybe other members could chime in

with further ideas, but it would help to

know what version of DPP and what

camera you are using.

Steve, as you already have a short-tele in your kit, you should also consider testing the DOF you get when going to f/2.8

against going to f/4.

When I do weddings, I can use either the EF 100mm f/2 or the long end of the EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS for mid/long distance shots, and find that taking a photo of the couple from a side requires between f/5.6 and f/8 to get both faces reasonably sharp with an APS-C EOS 7D,

so you would need f/8 to f/11 when using a 135 format 5D series camera in similar circumstances. Obviously I rather get the photo

with either the bride or the groom out of focus than not having a photo, so I some times use the f/2 for indoor shooting.

On the other hand, when doing an outdoor session I almost always prefer either the EF 50mm f/1.4 or the 100 f/2

depending on the angle of view needed for the subject (even using a 4 stop ND filter to retain a super-shallow DOF at

noon, overpowering the sun with a couple of battery operated 640 W/s strobe lights just out of the frame).<div></div>

Louise,

I believe you can't do most of what you are asking for, but

2. Besides opening a photo, copying the recipe, and applying to multiple photos, you can select multiple images in the

main window, open the tool palette, and make the needed changes for all the selected photos at once. This works mostly

to apply basic parameters as sharpening, color style and white balance, as I think DPP only allows you to show all the

photos in thumbnail mode.

3. I'm not sure about this one, as Im not in front of my computer to test, but I believe the Quick select screen shows the

photos with the sharpening applied in the camera. You could apply some in-camera sharpening while taking the photos,

knowing that this wont affect your RAW images. The point is, I don't know if quick select uses the small jpeg file

embedded in the RAW file for a faster rendering, using the parameters configured in camera at the time of capture, but it

shows my photos relatively sharp, at least for selection (nevertheless I believe it doesn't show changes made in DPP, like

WB change).

Those temperatures are pretty common in many places (yesterday we got 40oC here in Monterrey, Mexico), and none of

my lenses, both standard and L series, have a loose rubber grip for that reason. On the other hand, the rubber on my old

28-135 got loose a couple of years ago when I used it without enough protection under the rain of hurricane Alex, so I

believe Puppy Face has the right answer.

In my case, not just the rubber grips got loose, but the lens started showing alignment issues, perhaps because the

rubber bands are also there to cover some screws, so I ended replacing the lens with the L series equivalent. The point is

that you may want to make sure your lens is working properly.

David, the x-rite ColorCheck Passport software is supposed to correct your problem, but you need to use ACR (either in

LR or PS) to make it work (as it depends in Adobe's DNG for the calibration, which isn't supported by Canon's DPP). You

will need a photo taken of the ColorCheck Passport with the same light source for it to work at its best.

I wonder what this statement means:

"Dual Pixel CMOS AF (...) enables users to shoot video with the new EOS 70D close to the quality of a video shot with a

camcorder."

Could it mean that focusing in movie mode is close to the focusing of a camcorder? Or should we understand that the

new CMOS sensor has the image quality of a camcorder?

Forgot to mention it: the TC-80N3 may be another solution (actually maybe the only one approved by Canon). It allows to

set an initial timer, a number of shots, and an interval between shots.

This is why one shouldn't insert a memory card into a photo kiosk before making a backup (and also why one shouldn't

insert a memory card directly into a camera after using int in a kiosk before running an antivirus on it).

You may be able to recover your images using a photo recovery software, but you should try that only after removing the

virus from all the infected computers and memory cards. Good luck!

I believe there is a reason Canon doesn't supply a screen protector (and Nikon does). My cameras' displays don't show

scratches, back to my 20D with well over 100k shutter actions, to my newer 7D. My friend's Nikons have the LCD

protector all the time, and I always think is a waste to have a high tech screen if you will hide it beneath a piece of cheap

plastic.

I made a decision to rather have the outer layer of the screen replaced than having something on top of it when I bought

the 20D some 9 years ago... and never had to replace it.

Regarding the protection needed for carry-on transportation, I agree you don't need a lot of padding just for that (although

some passengers may hit your bag while trying to fit their stuff into the overhead bins). The real problem is the size of the

bag, and the possibility of a small bag ending in the cargo area of an aircraft due to a full flight. Another problem in remote

destinations is the weight (all passengers are asked to stand on a scale with their carry-ons before boarding a Nature

Air's Dehavilland DHC 6 in Costa Rica, which, by the way, doesn't have overhead bins).

In my experience, the largest bag I would try to travel with is my Kata FlyBy 74, which fits perfectly (removing the trolley)

in the overhead bins of the Embraer ERJ 145, the smallest aircraft used by the airlines I travel with (Aeromexico, and the

United routes previously operated by Continental). Something important to consider in this respect is that airlines sometimes ask

their passengers to do a valet/gate check-in when a flight is completely sold, most of the time allowing only the "elite"

passengers to keep their bags with them during early boarding. The point being, don't plan for the largest bag that fits in

an airplane if you plan to fly on a regional aircraft during the summer vacation months, unless you are a frequent flyer with

elite status and arrive early to the gate.

Aaron, I don't have, and haven't used any of the cameras you mention. In my experience those are characteristics usually

found in more basic cameras, while more advanced cameras don't have those options available.

It is possible that a third party "firmware" (hack) could add the option you are looking for (I'm pretty sure the CHDK would

add it to a Powershot that doesn't includes it, but don't know if there is an equivalent for the EOS series).

Michael, just to add to the confusion, and letting you know that I don't have it (yet), you may want to consider the Kit Cube

from Mountainsmith. It seems to be a good solution to keep a medium camera kit inside a daypack, and is quite

inexpensive (under $20 from B&H).

I guess there shouldn't be any problem, until Canon issue a recall, but I only remember one battery grip recall in the

current century, so I wouldn't worry about that.

On the other hand, I would check the seller rating before buying a brand new product from a non stablished store, but that

it's just common sense.

Steven, you have received great advice so far. I have nothing to add in that respect, as I fully concur.

On the other hand, just to clarify, there is only one current Canon 15-85mm model, which is a standard range zoom from

the EF-S series, and I don't recall any EF (not EF-S) zoom lens with 15mm in its range.

Rocky, Could you describe the problem? I mean, I think we are seeing from one to four different problems in your image,

so just to be clear:

1. The top of the image may be supposed to be the bottom,

2. The top part also shows lots of noise,

3. The left of the image may be the right of the image,

4. There may be a white balance issue with your photo.

Are all of these the problems you see, or am I missing something? Am I adding a problem that is not an actual error?

I have no idea of what could cause these (other than, perhaps, a failing CF card), but identifying the problems could help

others to figure out what's the root cause.

Dan, that lens doesn't have a distance limitting switch.

Ruben

Robert, a Theodolite app may help you pre-visualizing where will be the Moon. There are also some aumented reality

astronomical apps that overlays the moon position while showing a real-time camera capture, like SkyView. I use these,

mostly the Theodolite app, together with The Photographer Efemeris.

Vince, sometimes, when we are really into the action, one tends to ignore the surrounding areas when photographing.

Could it be that you just filtered in your mind the surrounding areas, and then you found you actually included those

surrounding areas in you photos?

By the way, what lens do you commonly use with your camera?

I haven't use a 6D, nor read it's manual, but a quick search in Google returned several threads showing that it only

generates JPEG HDRs, then you need to set your image to JPEG to enable the HDR option.

I would believe that a similar Google search, or even a reading of the user guide, should return something similar for your

other question.

Jim, have you checked in your windows directory if the photos are at the beginning instead of at the end? If your directory

is sorted by file name instead of date, you may have all the files, just in the wrong order.