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mark_jordan3

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Posts posted by mark_jordan3

  1. Stephen, As others note, there are many digicams available that offer manual controls...and it appears your interest level is high enough that you'd have no (self-discipline) problems turning off the automatic features. However, I think the upside of an FM3A is that it is very simple and free of the busy distractions of an automatic camera (film or digital).

    I have an FM and have always found it pleasurable to use when I have the time to take photos at my own pace, an occasional way to blow out the cob-webs,...Overall, I think acquiring the skill of manually exposing film provides a foundation that in the long run arguably makes one a better digital photographer.

  2. Erin, I attended the annual stock show regularly back when I lived in Denver and mostly shot B+W as lighting there is a hodge-podge of Incadescent/Mercury Vapor/Flourescent...among the different buildings. It's been 4 years for me, so things could have changed, but I'd recommend either an early site walk and/or come prepared with the necessary film/equipment to handle any of those lighting conditions. Without a flash, I'd recommend 800 speed film...the photos I took were for my own personal use, a lot will depend upon what your client wants. Good luck!
  3. I think what Shun states is true regarding the 24mm...it rides the edge in terms of having that overly obvious wide angle look like a 20mm would...and therefore is a bit easier to handle. Any forum I've seen on the 24mm vs. 28mm leans towards the 24mm hands down.
  4. Hi Casey, I've had my F100 for 2 years and love it...trying to gain a sense though as to what you're after in upgrades. From what you've described it sounds like you have strong interest in expanding into other lenses...while continuing to use what you currently own in MF. If you're not in immediate need of higher end body features...you may want to consider sinking your current $$ into getting the best lenses you can afford, even buying them in AF so that they can be used down the road with either an AF film/digital body. The FM2N is a great body...if it meets your current needs you may want to just stick with it for a few more years and reap the benefits/enjoyment of usuing quality lenses NOW.
  5. Hi Naji, If indoors you do not intend to leverage exisitng light often, use of a flash pretty much negates whether or not you'll need a fast lens...however, I personally prefer faster lenses for a brighter image in the viewfinder. I seem to habitually put away the zooms and use an 85mm f1.8 for around 90% of the shots...then 24mm f2.8 for group shots along with a SB-28 flash. I have found the setup to be less imposing to people as opposed to creeping up on them with either the 80-200mm f2.8 or 17-35mm f2.8 attached. Out of the lenses you note...my personal choice would be to go with the 35-70mm f2.8. The 50mm is a great lens too, but doesn't give you a lot of working distance in either direction.
  6. Hi Nabil, it's possible there was nothing wrong with the scanner. I bought the Nikon Coolscan IV a year ago and had to go through a substantial learning curve before I started getting expected results...and am sure there are things I'm still missing out on. Variables ranging from choice of gamut settings...down to your monitor profile (and, with some, its viewing mode) all affect what you'll see off of that raw scan. Unless the image is predominently middle-toned, very seldom do I not have to make some degree of correction in order to match what I'm seeing on the light table. At first I found it to be cumbersome...but now that I'm more comfortable with the process it's become all part of the fun. The cloudiness perhaps could have been an issue of selected focusing point...or a magnification of the slides themselves not being sharp...you'd be surprised! Good luck!
  7. Evan, I have the Kenko 1.4 PRO and use it with both my 80-200 f/2.8 (non-AFS) and 300 f/4 AFS...no issues and am pleased with the results. The selection concern for me was that while Nikon offers a TC for AFS...it only supports AFS focusing and their older TC-14 does not preserve AF for either (or 3D matrix metering). I try to only use a TC sparingly (as they all degrade image to some extent) so could not justify sinking too much cash into one. I think the Kenko would be a good interim solution for you.
  8. Noah, The 28-80 would be a great range for you, but the quality of lens in the packaged version is terrible...I believe even the lens mount is plastic. While the N80 offers a lot of growing room, the N65 would handle your basic needs as described and (if you're willing to go $400) allow you to redirect the cash differential toward getting into a better lens. I agree with the advice regarding the 50 f/1.8, it's always come highly regarded...Nikon is running some pretty strong rebates on a variety of their lenses through the end of the year might want to take a look at too. Best Wishes, Mark
  9. Ray, The AI, AIS, AID, AF(D&S) lenses will all work on the FM2N. I've typically found that ex to mint condition used Nikon lenses at a typical local/walk-in dealer here out west run just under or sometimes as much as what I can buy them for new from an online/mail order dealer like B&H...especially if your willing to go grey market. There is such a broad circulation of used Nikon stuff out there you should be able to quickly compare and acertain what's a fair price. Incidently, my primes are all autofocus to accomodate owning an FM and F100...I really have no complaints, but would agree the AIS lenses have a bit more of competent MF feel to them.
  10. David, given your specific photographic need is extensively in/around water and will be (more or less) a secondary activity...I would suggest going with an inexpensive body and decent prime lens like a 60mm macro for close focusing capability. The combination would be lightweight, crisp optically and affordable enough that you wouldn't suffer too much emotional devastation should the equipment accidentally take a dunk...
  11. Rebecca, I believe your len's filter size is 62mm which would allow you to directly use either the 5T or 6T Nikon close-up lenses. They are double element and of high quality...and only around $40! One advantage to close-up lenses (as opposed to extension rings) is that there is no light loss and you maintain full function of your AF lens.
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