nicholas_t.

IMO labs don't seem to ever do a decent job with b&w prints. "Hand printed" on RC paper is not ideal for special projects. You are better off doing it yourself or having a specialist do it--honestly.

I have found the best developer for APX 400 to be Gainer Staining developer. I use the version with HQ and Phenidone. There is no Sulphite.<p>

I know that all developers are different and that people's opinions of them are just that--opinions. However, the quality of this film in <i>this</i> developer are such that it is that much better than anything else out there. The grain is minimal. I have enlarged a 35mm to 8x12in with no noticable grain. I have also enlarged a 6x12cm neg to 400mm x 800mm also in this developer with no noticable grain (comparable enlargement factors) to the visible eye. The tones are excellent. I can't recommend the combination highly enough.

I reckon the main thing you need to work out is whether you want/need movements because you are only limited to front rise on a Crown Graphic. That said, if you don't need those movements a Crown Graphic with a Kalart rangefinder is an amazing camera, and incredibly well made. I use mine with a 127mm and 90mm lens and a 6x12 back. I hear 65mm lenses work well on this camera too and will try it out one day.

Hi everyone, I like APX400 and it loves Gainer staining developer (hydroquinone/phenidone). Speed is fine 320 is easy. Very fine grain @ 8x12in, no noticeable grain at that size. I would wager it works fine in any of the Catachol staining developers (try Pyrocat HD). It grows golf balls in Rodinal. Good luck, great film

AFAIK, APX 100 hasn't changed in years. The change is with APX 400. I went to the site you mention. I think it's wrong. Isn't the internet great?

Two different things, deep blacks come from exposing and processing your paper properly and creamy whites are to do with tonal range quality. Like Beau said his photo "breaks" up after 5x7... If you want creamy whites a good way to do it is with good exp/processing and some APX100 and process it in a staining developer.

I have no doubt this well intentioned post is true. This was posted earlier this year and people didn't believe it then... I contacted Lex about starting a petition to keep the 120 formats in production. Not sure how I feel about starting one now. I feel a little more resigned to the inevitable...

Sounds like it is a copy made in China which may or may not be a good thing...

You've seen <a href="http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/toho.htm">this<a/> no doubt.

Dr Wosnick, my bad :-[

I found out that the stuff I thought might be Borax is in fact--not. Its Sodium Hexametaphosphate, otherwise known as Calgon. Still useful, not as useful as Borax though.

Right, right... I see now.<p>

Most people now use those solutions split stock. As in, developing agents in one bottle and activator/alkaline solutions in another. This improves longevity somewhat.

The esablished working solution is straight and it this developer doesn't seem to work consistantly with more dilution (like D76 not D76 1:1). I'm not sure what you mean by 1:3, but if you are diluting more than the standard dilution you <i>might</i> have problems.<p>

...and yes the solution will last for some time if you have used distilled water. The problem arises if there is some residual iron in your tap water. This is <u>bad</u> for you ascorbate if you do.<p>

Other than that, good stuff. I really like this developer and in recent times it has taken a back seat to the newer, fancier, developers but it is really good. As you probably know Metol does not dissolve into Propylene Glycol...

Phenidone does not ionise in Propylene Glycol and so keeps <b>very</b> well when kept in this solution...

It's actually quite difficult for us to get Borax here, no 20 team mule. I bought some soluble Borax from a potters supplies but I don't use it anymore because it has too many "things" in it. There is something I would like to try, a water softener which looks like Borax and I will ring the company today to find out exactly what it is.

Peter, did you get "soluble" borax? It sounds like you didn't.

If you could fill us in on what you find with this combination, that would be great. I suspect many hundreds of people look at these forums and proabably have interest in what you are doing but nonetheless have nothing to add to what you have to say. I say go for it! and let us know what you find out...

Those lenses will focus at infinity at their respective focal lengths. So, the 58mm will be 58mm away from the groundglass @ infinity and the 90mm will be 90mm away from the groundglass.<p>

If you can't get the lenses close enough, especially for the 58mm because it probably needs a recessed lensboard to fit...<p>

Lotsa cameras can handle a 90mm without a recessed lensboard and so see how close you can get it to the groundglass...<p>

Good luck

APx100 goes well in Rodinal and grain doesn't really become aparent with that setup @ 1:50 with enlargements bigger than 10x10in. If you want to go bigger then D23 might be a better option. Gainer Vitamin C "original" on the <a href="http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/VitC/vitc.html">article from Unblinkingeye</a> with Carbonate is fine and as quick to mix as D23 with only three ingredients. D23 and Gainer Vitamin C have equal grain but Gainer Vitamin C will have more apparent sharpness.

I for one am really looking forward to trying this new film. Hopefully, it will come to New Zealand--cheaply... I've held off buying a stash of APX100 in 120 because even though it sounds like it will be soon unavailable, there must be something around which will be as good and suit what I do... The Efke 100 sounds promising, although I've got my reservations about it...<p>

I'll definately give this one a go and let the agfa 120 product die, if that is indeed what's happening...

Hey Jordan, while were here, is p-Aminophenol.HCl as bad a chemical as p-Aminophenol in terms of being a carcinogen?

AFAIK, p-Aminophenol.HCl is the active ingredient of the Anchell and Troop version of Rodinal, p-Aminophenol --straight--is what's listed on the bottle of Rodinal as you buy it.

AFAIK, Rodinal's grain size <i>decreases</i> in greater dilutions. There is some evidence this is due to the activator which is used in that particular developer--KOH. Personally I would <i>never</i> use it at the 1:25 dilution, 1:50 is the standard dilution and dilutions over that are not uncommon. At 1:50 developing times are not too long (10mins or so) in standard tanks. 1:25 produces golf ball grain.

another camera?

Sounds like a floating element ring. You put it to the distance which the lens is being used at and I presume return it to infinity when finished. I dont know how to move these rings.