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nightlight

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Posts posted by nightlight

  1. <p>Hi,<br>

    I have a 400D with a M42 300mm f4 Takumar lens. I'm finding that all my shots are extremely over exposed. Easy fix is to stop it down. Though looking through the camera all looks fine with the manual setting on the lens, of focus and aperture. I've also tried a different 200mm Takumar and find I have the same problem. I have tried all 3 metering modes and all seem to have the same problem? I have tried most of all the stops on the lenses without any success.<br>

    What I want to know is when does metering take place, once it passes the focusing screen or before?<br>

    If it is indeed passing the focusing screen and making a judgement of metering then perhaps I should look into investing another screen?<br>

    OR perhaps I need to invest in a light meter! :)<br>

    Any thoughts on the subject?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    jacek</p>

  2. Hi all,

     

    I have located a Macbeth Tr 927, though the seller tells me that the light in the transmission part is not working. I'm

    sure this is a easily fixed with a replacement bulb? Where would I get one?

    Also the check plaque (black/white) is missing? I'm unsure what this is? It could be calibration plaque? Where do I

    get one of these?

    From what i've read these things do "Status T + Orthochromatic (ISOType 2) + Ultraviolet (ISO Type 1)" ? What

    exactly are these used for?

    The Ultraviolet I understand is if I'm using Pyro stained negatives, though unsure about the Ortho or Status T?

    There are other Macbeth's that do Visual and M?

    "M" is for masked negative, C41 orange based ones, is this correct?

    The Visual could also be the Orthochromatic channel?

    The Reflection part of the densitometer is working.

    Any help?

    Thanks

    Jacek

  3. Yello, Send it to Ross Yerkes in the US. Get him to do a CLA on the body and Film backs. The lenses i'm sure you can get someone in London to do CLA for it. He's the best for the KOWA cameras.

    Cheers

  4. Hi Bob, Thanks for the info. After extensive testing of all the parts, it was the actual charger which was busted. The plug connecter had corroded with some sort of blue mess in it, I tried filling it away but that doesnt seem to work. I tested the charger for the output it was giving with a multimeter (set to AC 10 Volts) and I was getting 4.5 volts out of it? Which seems incorrect to me as the thing should give me 7.5 volts output, well thats what it states on the charger itself. Will be looking to get a new charger today.

    Thanks for the info...

    Jacek

  5. Hi all,

     

    I have a Metz 60 Ct-1 flash. Does anyone know what the red button is suppose

    to do next to the switch of the battery pack, is it supposed to stay

    continuously illuminated when turned on or blink?

    Mine used to blink when turned on when I used it, but the other day I decided

    to power the pack for 24 hours. Now its constantly illuminated and I cant seem

    to get the flash to fire that much at all, and the recharge from each shot

    takes ages than before, the orange light hardly comes on. Plus the green

    illumination on the back of the flash head where you control the aperture and

    iso takes ages to come up?

    I got a new battery but that has the same problem with an entirely different

    metz unit?!

    Could the battery be dead? Is there a way to check the battery to see if it

    has a charge left?

    What happens if I leave the batteries on for the whole day will it slowly

    discharge?

    Cheers

    Jacek

  6. Hi all,

     

    Has anyone used the FD 85mm f1.2 and EF 85mm f1.2 lenses? How do they compare,

    other than the FD manual focusing and EF auto focusing abilities on them.

    How is bokeh on each at f1.2 to f2?

    Hows is edge to edge sharpness stopped down to f5 to higher(f8,f16..etc)?

    How is colour rendition, contrast?

     

    Cheers

    Jacek

  7. Thanks for the responses guys.

    Michael and Ronald, I will be shooting on film, on my Canon Eos30 (Elan 7e), using an adaptor to put a Leica lens on.

     

    Wai, Yep so i'll be using f8 or higher (f16 etc), using studio lights to light my subject.

     

    Kentish, I have a Medium format camera, but am more intrested in 35mm for now.

     

    Thats good information Derek, thanks very much for that. Perhaps I should look at the EF 50mm 1.2L and 85mm 1.2? Though I will look out for the Contax 1.4 to 1.7.

     

    John, When you say the Canon f1.4 FD is sharper, your comparing it with which lens the EF 50mm f1.4?

  8. Hi all,

     

    I'm doing mainly portraits in the studio and am about to buy the EF 50mm f1.4

    and the EF 85mm f1.8 lens. My subjects are stationary, I want the fullest

    detail possible, sharpness, with good colour rendition and contrast. I will be

    not be caring really about Bokeh or any softness in my portraits, I want

    WRINKLES and all! :) So I would be shooting at f8 or higher on the lens.

     

    I was wondering if it was worth spending the money on these EF lenses or look

    into manual focused Leica lenses such as the Summicron, Elmarit or Summilux?

    Like I said the subjects are stationary and I can hand focus, not a problem

    there. I understand that the prices of some of these Leica lenses are quite

    high but I would rather have all the information first before putting down on

    the EF series lenses... I would use an adaptor to put the Leica lens on my EF

    body. Looking at the range of Leica lenses out there, what would you suggest I

    look at getting?

    Thanks Jacek

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