davef

Assuming none of these suggestions solve the OP's problem, can anyone recommend a repair facility for this camera, or is it smarter to just buy another body (assuming the other components are working)?

 

Thanks.

You could try to download an "undelete" utility from the internet, and see if any of the images can be rescued.

 

However, since you've deleted photos and then taken new photos, it is unlikely that this method will work.

 

I'd give it a try nonetheless.

"Is it me. . .or have most of these responses been unduly harsh?"

 

I agree ... rather harsh.

 

I would start with the 50mm f1.8 Canon prime. It is an outstanding lens. I use it on my 10D frequently.

 

The Canon 70-200mm f4 L is less than $600, and it is a remarkable zoom. It lives on my 10D. And the 17-40mm f4 L is impressive too, although I do not own one (yet).

 

Try one of these lenses, and I believe you will be thrilled with the results.

 

Hope this helps.

By "know someone," I am referring to someone in your immediate family. My wife is a school employee, and therefore qualifies for academic pricing from Microsoft. However, children in K-12 are NOT eligible for academic pricing.

"98SE is an outdated operating system, why not consider XP Home or something? It's much more stable than 98/98SE."

 

I would agree: XP is more stable than 98SE. If you're in the US, and you have (or know someone) with a college ID card, you can get XP Professional Academic version for about $85 from newegg.com.

I would buy the f4.0 now. It is a fantastic lens, and there are some good deals on eBay, if you're interested in saving even more money. Just don't get caught up in a bidding war.

 

I got my f4 on eBay, and it is great. I love everything about this lens, especially the lighter weight.

 

Hope this helps.

I might be mistaken, but I think Elements 3 requires Windows XP. So, unless you're willing to upgrade to XP, I'd use Breezebrowser and Elements 2.

 

Regards.

Well, I'm glad you're okay. Maybe your homeowner's insurance will cover some portion of the damage.

 

Good luck.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the information.

 

Regards.

Does the original 50mm f1.8 EF Mk1 lens (the one with the metal

mount) have full-time manual focus?

 

The focus ring spins freely when set to AF. Is this as designed?

 

Thanks.

"I took all seven of my lenses and they calibrated the camera for the correct "AF stop point" of each lens (which due to the age, or manufacturing variations is unique for every sample)."

 

Where did you take your equipment? Directly to a Canon service facility? How long did it take to get your equipment back? Thanks.

I would check the camera's ISO setting.

 

When shooting in JPEG mode on my 10D, the camera *indicates* that it can store more images at 100ISO than at 200ISO. As the ISO increases, the number of JPEG images the camera *thinks* it can store decreases. There is no way of telling how many JPEGs the card will actually store due to compression.

 

Hope this helps.

I've used White House Custom Colour with much success. Their web site address is www.whcc.com.

Or ... you can buy a power inverter for your car from Best Buy and plug the standard charger into it. A power inverter can be used for other stuff too, like a laptop to offload your images.

I don't see how you could go wrong with the 50mm f1.8. I have it, and it's on my 10D most of the time. For a <$100 lens, it can't be beat.

Using a newly-formatted 1GB CF card, I noticed that my camera

indicates that I can shoot the following number of large jpeg images:

 

ISO100 - 409 exposures; ISO200 - 386 exposures; ISO400 - 362

exposures; ISO800 - 318 exposures; ISO1600 - 278 exposures; and

ISO3200 (H) - 237 exposures.

 

I would have thought that a lower ISO number (finer grain) would

offer fewer exposures than a higher ISO number (courser grain)

would. Can anyone explain why this isn't true? Is it because higher

ISO settings produce more noise?

 

Thanks.

At first, I thought I had selected sensor clean, but that wouldn't explain why the camera remained on after I physically turned the on/off switch to the off position. Only removing the BP-511 battery cleared up the problem.

 

So I'll chalk this one up to sunspots or something. I haven't had any problems since, but thanks everyone for your input. It is appreciated.

Wow! Nice birthday gift.

There's no down tilt on the 420EX. My 420EX flashes at the 50mm setting if it's tilted. It changes as my lens changes, and I've got a Canon cheapo 28-80 zoom. It stays on 50mm on my 50 f1.8 lens.

The firmware is unhacked version 1.0.1. The lens is a Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II.

 

With AV mode, I can get 1/320 shutter speed. I'm almost positive it was f8. I re-formatted my CF card, which I always do before I go out shooting.

 

Oh well. It's been performing flawlessly ever since.

 

Now if I can only get up enough nerve to clean the sensor, I'll be REALLY happy.

I was shooting some photos over the weekend, and when I took the 7th

or 8th shot, the shutter stuck open, as if I had the shutter speed

set to bulb.

 

I checked the parameters: ISO 100, 1/320 shutter speed, f8. It wasn't

on bulb. So I turned off the camera using the 10D's on/off switch,

and it remained on. The display on the top of the camera continued

to display settings as if nothing was wrong. I tried turning it

on/off a couple of times, but it would not turn off.

 

I finally took the BP-511 battery out of the camera, and the camera

turned off, but the shutter didn't close. I turned off the camera,

re-inserted the battery, and when I turned the camera back on, the

shutter closed, and everything has operated normally since.

 

Has this type of thing happened to anyone else on these forums? This

was strange, and I'm unable to duplicate the problem (which is a good

thing, I think).

 

Thanks.

"The expresscamera.com Package Includes: Canon EOS 10D Camera Body Canon 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS Auto Focus Lens Canon 75-300 4.0-5.6 IS Auto Focus Lens 512MB CompactFlash Card Deluxe Cleaning Kit Deluxe Case High-Speed Card Reader Tripod Screen Protectors Lithium Battery"

 

All for only $790.00

 

This camera is either:

 

1) A broken camera

2) A stolen camera

3) A non-existent camera

 

I paid $1499 at Ritz for my 10D. No tax and no shipping. I would have bought from B&H, but I wanted to try it out, and B&H's price was identical.

 

However, B&H beats Ritz's prices hands down on seemingly everything else ... so buy from B&H and know that you're getting what you've paid for.

Where specifically in the Baltimore area?

 

Ritz at White Marsh Mall uses the Frontier. What size photos do you want printed? I think Ritz (White Marsh) can do up to 10x15. But at $12.99, I think it's a ripoff.

Hal,

 

Maybe posting pictures of young girls on a website, vis-a-vis "Girls Gone Wild," can be considered exploitation, but I can't believe that simply taking photos of young people in itself could be considered exploitation.

 

About a month ago, our local newspaper printed a front-page photo of a young boy -- about 11 years old -- smoking a cigarette during the local carnival. If they can shoot candids, so can the rest of us.

I'm thinking about buying the Canon 10D within the next few weeks.

I've been looking at 2 different CompactFlash cards since the CF card

is not included with the camera:

 

1) the SanDisk 1GB Ultra CompactFlash card, that's advertised to

write at 2.8MB/sec, or ...

 

2) The Lexar 1GB WA Pro Media CompactFlash card.

 

The Lexar card is about $100 more than the SanDisk card. So, I need

some opinions regarding the best choice of card. I was also thinking

about maybe buying 4 256MB cards instead of 1 1GB card, although this

would cost more.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.