agustin barrutia

<p>Cam should match the lens number for perfect work, otherwise you will have to buy a used 150mm cam for the III tech and send it to a technician. That for sure will add 100/200 for the work.<br>

The heliar is coated? if it is so and its in good shape then the lens only could cost 400+. <br />ive got the same set, lens with same numbered cam, trading it for some other equipment. The value of it is around 800+. <br />450 sounds like a really good price if the camera is in good shape and the heliar is coated. </p>

<p>Ive used the V500 for Large format prints. Just scan it with no neg holder, flat on the glass. First one side of the sheet, then another pass moving it and getting the other half. Load them in Photoshop, go to Automate, Photomerge and try different options until u get a good merge. <br />some examples of scans on my Flickr:<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/agustinbarrutia">www.flickr.com/agustinbarrutia</a><br>

The photos of the last 2 weeks have been scanned with the Epson software. No addons, 600dpi some levels on photoshop.</p>

<p>cheers</p>

Thanks a lot to everyone for their responses!!

 

I had the feeling it was a Russian copy, but well im not the Leica expert!:)

 

David Lee:

Luckily I already have a IIIf and a leicaflex to enjoy those beautiful shots the summicrons are capable of.

 

thanks again to eveyone,

 

cheers!

 

Agustin

So guys what do u think about this SM Leica? Looks like a refurbished polished

regular leica...

 

 

http://www.deremate.com.ar/accdb/viewitem.asp?IDI=18438240

 

cheers!!

 

 

Agustin

<div></div>

Dear list,

I got an used black Rollei B35 in good shape for 65 uSs. I

know this is the cheapest model of the 35 rollei?s and that the lens

its not quite good, but I thought it was a good price. Was it?.

My question is: How actually the lightmeter works?. I know it

doesn?t use batteries, but I only see the needle appear when

shooting on sunny days. Does it work only in exterior or hi light

situations? Or my cell is caput?.

 

thanks!

 

Agustin

Thanks people for the advices, it was really informative.

 

I woun?t change the prism, it doesn?t bother me and I think it?s too much money for that small thing. I?m thinking of keeping the camera for everyday use and sell the Nikkormat with all the lenses (I just use the 50mm, so I?m not thinking of gettting new lenses).

Does anyone if this early R summicron is as good as a SM from the 50?s ?.

Thanks once again.

Thanks Mark and Tony. The camera has been serviced by the best Leica technician here in Argentina. So it?s working perfectly. The only drawback is the aged pentaprism that has a pale yellow color.

Was it a good deal?

I got an exellent almost no use Leicaflex SL with Summicron 50 f2.

Camera SN 1221971.

Lens SN 2321380.

Cosmetics are exellent, the lens is clear with no marks. It even

has the red original knob.

I payed 370 EUROS for it.

Is it a good price?. Any recomendations about the camera itself.

How would you compare the lens, being one of the first R designs of

leica, compared with a SM summicron from the 50?s.

The lightmeter takes an average reading of all the frame? or just

from the center circle?.

 

Thanks a lot in advance for the advices!.

 

abarrutia@velocom.com.ar

When I said UVB I was trying to say BL tubes. Not the ones used in nightclubs (that I think, are the BLB).

Stefan. How far do you put your source?. It should be really close to the contact frame. The prints I made with a 300w UV discharge lamp, I placed the lamp at 30 cm from the frame (exposure time 15/30 minutes, although it depends on the negative). When using the 4 18w UVB(those are the fluorescents you should get if you want to use flouros) I place the frame at just 5cm from the tubes (same range of minutes).

Blue skylight is a good source (giving times similar or longer to the artificial sources I use) increasing the contrast of the print.

Sunlight is a Cheap fast way of making prints, but gives less contrast.

 

Good luck

I expose my negatives 1/3 less than the recomended EI and develop them 50% more than the standard development time, and get good results with the old cyanotype recipy.

But as you know It depends on the shot, the subject and the desired effect.

As I dont have a densitometer, I can´t give you exact density ranges.

A good negative for cyanotype should print correctly in a gade 0 paper (but, that depends on the enlarger, the paper, etc).

Tell us how do you expose your negatives, and what formula do you use.

The best and easiest road to good negatives for cyanotypes and other processes is the digital way. Adjusting the contrast curve for differnt processes with the same image.

I´m not that lucky with amazing finds, but a friend of mine is. I learned about classics and XIX photography with him and his collection.

Some of the finds:

A Monte en Sarre Leica If (the only one reported?) came with a professional microscope. He paid 400 u$s for the microscope (including Leica mount with compur shutter, and pentax mount) and the leica. He sold it for more than 5000$ in europe. (I think 7000$ was the number).

Two Kimbay colored albumen albums with 20 photographs each, and ivory decoratings in the hard front for 100 argentinian pesos, (that is, 30 u$s). He sold them in Europe for 2500u$s. After selling the albums, the same day, he found 1 more album in an antique shop nearby. Bought it for 1000 u$s, called the client, and got i think 1500u$s.

Two Leica Compur for 200 u$s each.

A Puyo Portrait lens for no more than 100 u$s.

And the latest one a Leica M2 with Summicron 50 f2 for 130 uSs.

And the list goes on and on. He is a lucky guy... Yep...

I would add the voightlander Superb for its beautifull design, and the Contax IIa.

Thanks guys for your advices!

I´m working hard on a project right now. Next week, I´ll have the free time I need to test the stereo camera I made.

 

I´ll post results here.

 

sincerely

Thanks Bob and Art for your suggestions!.

I´m planning to make some tests with the cardboard camera I made, and if I get good results, I´ll make it in wood. I got the size of the pinholes with a formula. They will be small 0,35mm pinholes.

As soon as I make tests I´ll post them here :).

 

Thanks once again.

 

Sincerely,

Dear list members,

It came to my mind the thought of doing a stereoscopic pinhole

camera, using 4x5 negs, for later contact printing to cyano,

saltprint, or VDB.

I´d like to be able to do stereos with the standard size of the old

stereo views (mounted in 18cmx10cm I think cardboards), to be able

to use them in the old "viewers" (sp?).

I´m building the camera, and some thoughts came to my mind. I woun´t

be able to do the same size of the standard old stereos, as they are

something like 7x8cm each view. As I´ll be using 4x5 negs, the

images will be 10cm x 6cm.

Did someone ever try this experiment?. Is there any problem I may be

aware of before finishing the camera?

I´ll do the pinholes at 6cm from each other. What distance should I

use when "focusing" closer?. Does this rule apply to pinhole anyway?.

 

Thanks for your comments and advices!!

 

Agustin

Canon IIb, Collapsible Serenar50 3,5. Shutter 1/20, f 3,5.

Melissa, I started by reading the webb/reed book of "alternative photographic processes". "Coming into focus" (Barnier) is a good buy too.

With those books you´ll be able to get into alt. photographic processes.

Contact printing is the most used method in alt processes for printing (with some exeptions as Bromoil among others). It means that you get an image by exposing the sensitized paper in "contact" with the negative, just as the way you make contacts sheets of 35mm film. The difference with most alt processes is that they need lots of UV light to react. So instead of using the enlarger light (usually a small 100w bulb with no UV radiation) you use big and bright sources of light, as the sun, the sky, 20w BL tubes, Mercury lamps, etc, for some minutes.

Donald. My experience with daguerreotypes was quite unsuccesfull. Appart from beeing a dangerous process, it´s really tricky. The polishing process takes 1 hour, and that´s 50% of the image results so to speak. If you don´t polish correcctly the plate, or if you just touch the surface with the tip of your fingers, then you´ll have to start all over again; or you woun´t get any image. There are plenty of things that can go wrong, and in the first day of our workshop, we got the first good image after 3 attempts.

Appart from beeing a tricky process, it´s quite expensive too.

But the results worth the effort of working so hard and patiently.

I tried the Iodine process, as the Bromine/iodine is much more complex.

If you try your idea, let me know how it went!!

Cheers

 

Agustin

Really interesting post Donald. I think we should wait until a chemist gets to your post and tells you if that´s possible or not.

Maybe, as daguerreotypy is a small thing arround the globe, and you can count with your hands the people that practices it, there´s no big demand for an improvment in the process. Aldough Spagnolli got really impressive results in his work (studio portraits, artificial lighting, 8x10 plates).

Any chemist arround?.

Thanks Christian. My research started when I read the last Post about anthotypes in the alt photo list.

Anno. Til now I reached the following sites, that have plenty of information:

http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/anthotype.htm

 

 

http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsg/photo/current/0016.htm

 

 

www.bjphoto.co.uk/cms/photo_tutorials/16.shtml

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Agustin.

Dear list.

I´ve been reading about this process in the last week, and I´m

really interested in trying it.

Most of the articles I read talk about a Hershel book/paper that

give details of it. I tried to find it on the WWW but didn´t get to

it.

Does someone have any info on that paper, or other XIX/XX century

literature about Anthotypes?.

I read that Deionized water (Distilled will give me the same

results?) is better than Alcohol, and that the flowers should be

picked up still young.

Then I got quite worried about an article talking of gases breaking

printing frames glasses. Any experiences with it?

Any info about the process would be welcome.

Thanks a lot!!

 

Agustin

One year ago, I was in a NY subway heading to the central park where I was going to spend the day. It was 4th of july. I had my Canon IIb on my shoulder. Two young gilrs started to talk about my camera, and they asked me If I could show it to them. So I did and we started chatting. As they saw that I was alone, they invited me to join them and their friends in a local pub that´s some blocks from the central park, just at the shore. I went and met a bunch of crazy loud and drunk young ny girls and guys. It was a funny afternoon, although I was the only sober in the group (I am 21 now, was 20 then, illegal to drink in Ny). They kept kissing each other and even touching their "private parts". And at no more than 2 meters away, a family with kids and everything having lunch. One guy even asked me out. Hehehe. Everything thanks to my special Canon IIb.