wandern

<p>tele tele: John Tran has it right, but I'm unclear on your first point. If you have Auto ISO enabled in Tv mode and increase the EC (+ / -), the ISO will move if necessary (if the aperture is constrained), but you WILL see the EC pointer move in the VF and the top LCD to indicate you've dialed in EC.</p>

 

<p>JDM v W: Did you use NiMH cells or Alkaline? Alkaline cells really don't do well in a battery grip, whereas some decent capacity (say 2500 mAh or better) NiMH cells will power the camera longer than the stock LiIon battery pack.</p>

<p>Tim: The grip takes 6 cells because it takes six rechargeable AA cells (NiMH for instance), which are a nominal 1.2V each, to give an output of 7.2V (the same as the OEM NiMH battery pack).</p>

 

<p>"the aftermarket version" is a bit vague as there are several out there of varying quality. I'me partial to Canon branded accessories, but I have to say after seeing the Zeikos grip ($99), I found little quantitative difference between it and the Canon grip that costs twice as much.</p>

<p>The 1.2.2 firmware is also available on the Canon USA site:<br>

<a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_7d#DriversAndSoftware">http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_7d#DriversAndSoftware</a></p>

<p>The 3M command adhesive hangers do work very well and leave little to no residue when removed.<br>

Here's another solution for drywall/gypsum wallboard that leaves an almost imperceptibly small hole in the wall:<br /> <a href="http://www.monkeyhook.com/">Monkey Hooks</a></p>

<p>This is a known problem with the Sony CCD used in that Model. Canon will generally replace it, for free, with a refurbished camera of a newer model.</p>

<p>Please see this link for details:<br>

<a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&keycode=2112&fcategoryid=221&modelid=9449">http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&keycode=2112&fcategoryid=221&modelid=9449</a></p>

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It's impossible to really predict bloom dates due to the dependence upon rainfall amount, rainfall timing, and temperature. I'd start checking <a href="http://www.desertusa.com/wildflo/ca_abdsp.html">Desert USA - Anza Borrego (http://www.desertusa.com/wildflo/ca_abdsp.html)</a> as springtime nears, to see if rainfall has been sufficient to support a bloom, and when it may begin and peak.

Try reading this:<br>

<a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/">http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/</a>

<p>

 

Also, specifically check your FEC (flash exposure compensation) both on the flash (to make sure it's not

overriding the camera) and on the camera. Try setting it to +1 -- your picture should be bright enough to have

some overexposed highlights. You've already implied that you're in 'M' mode- are your exposure settings

sufficient to reveal some of the background beyond the range of the flash? What ISO are you using?

Here's a fascinating video showing the assembly and function of a Canon 10D and EF 24-85mm lens.

<br>

It doesn't appear to work well in FIrefox, so you'll probably need Safari or IE to view it.

<br>

 

<a href="http://geekologist.com/blog/2008/08/06/10dvideo/">http://geekologist.com/blog/2008/08/06/10dvideo/</a>

<p>

 

Credits:

Presented by:

Matthew Farrell, Michelle Pang, Michael Tom,

UC Berkeley

Engineering 128

Spring 2008

Version 2.0

The Tamron is a fine lens. It doesn't focus silently like a canon USM lens, but it's not excessively sluggish in

focusing speed. Optically the lens is quite good, but be aware of significant sample variation. CA (chromatic

aberration) only becomes noticeable at wide-angle (17mm) with the lens set to a large aperture.

 

For the price (only $400 from Amazon), it's hard to beat this lens. Tamron offers a five-year warranty, which is

impressive for such an inexpensive lens.

I've been trying to renew my membership (which expires on Aug 30) for a week now, but the URL accessed from

either my member page, or sent to me in a photo.net email:

http://www.photo.net/register/user-new.tcl

 

when submitted, goes to:

http://www.photo.net/register/user-new-2

 

and then gives the error:

Server Error

The requested URL cannot be accessed due to a system error on this server.

AOLserver/4.5.0 on http://www.photo.net:8001

The problem is entirely dependent upon the costco and the printer they use. I've used several Costcos in the past that simply couldn't get an acceptable print, from any of their printers (mostly Noritsus). I do have three of them in my area that do an exceptional job, and some of them print to the same model of printer as the problem stores.

 

I think it's simply a calibration issue.

 

Once you find a printer that's properly calibrated, you'll need to bring your data card in to the store in person and request they print on that specific printer with no auto-correction- this can't be specified by using the costco.com web interface.

 

I also print everything with "autocorrect off" so they don't apply odd curves to the image before printing.

The DOF preview button will also engage the modeling flash.

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The 40d, just like its predecessors, simply does some software work to come up with ISO 3200 (which is why it's considered ISO expansion and you need to explicitly enable it through a custom function).

 

You'd get similar or better results by underexposing 1 stop (-1 EC) at ISO 1600 on the either the 40d or 450d.

 

One thing to consider beyond the pure amount of "noise" present in a high-ISO image, and something that even big review sites love to gloss over, is the amount of detail remaining in the high ISO picture. I think the 40d is absolutely excellent, and while possibly having a bit more noise than the 20d/30d, actually retains more detail.

 

I haven't taken or seen enough high ISO pictures from the 450d to make a decision on how it stacks up to the long line of other xxxd and xxd bodies as far as high ISO noise vs. detail.

 

If you do most of your shooting at ISO 3200, it may be worth having "in body". Otherwise, I'd concentrate on the overall image quality at ISO 1600, understanding that you can always increase exposure (and noise) in software, then apply some noise reduction to the final image if the noise is excessive. You might use something like Lightroom, or any RAW converter paired with NoiseNinja, NeatImage, etc.

The most important part of your post, and the part that appears to have not been addressed, is this bit: <i>"However, that being said, .. I have small hands, can't imagine packing a 40D on a vacation,".</i>

<p>

 

<b>The camera you are without, shall not a picture take.</b>

<p>

The 40d and 450d/XSi are both excellent cameras with excellent image quality. Hold the cameras, try them out, and buy the one you'll have in hand when you need it!

If you're looking for actual byte-to-byte duplicates, you can get ZSDuplicateHunter. They have a free 30-day trial available. I'd suggest using the Enterprise or Professional version, as they offer more options for comparing the files and what to do with duplicates when they're found.

 

If his files are not byte identical though, for instance some of the copies have had the metadata changed in them, it makes it much more difficult to cull the dupes.

This is a tougher question than the thread that "Z" posted a link to.

 

Both the XSi and 30d are far superior to your XT in autofocus capabilities, and, if that was your problem, it'd should be an easy choice to upgrade the body.

 

Have you been able to establish the cause of your "not sharp" pictures? The XT does tend to focus fairly poorly on low contrast subjects- looking at your blurry or unsharp pictures, is it an issue with shutter speed (you need a faster lens or a higher available ISO), or is it a problem with focus (you need a more accurately focusing camera) ?

 

You're not going to get a much faster (larger aperture) lens than the excellent 85mm f/1.8 that you already have, so if you're shooting at ISO 1600 and f/1.8, you'll have to concentrate on techniques such as panning, capturing subjects at points of minimum movement, etc.

 

If it's a focus issue, and your lenses focus correctly on bright, high contrast subjects (i.e. it's not a lens or body calibration issue), then you're back to considering the better autofocus of the XSi or 30d.

 

The XSi does have some nice interface improvements over the XT, such as ISO in the viewfinder, a dedicated ISO button, etc., it meters well, has spot metering (possible to be an advantage for your shooting situations). The viewfinder is noticeably better than the XT's tunnel viewfinder.

 

The 30d is more solid, heavier, and has the dedicated dial on the back for exposure compensation (or aperture in M mode). The biggest advantage that the 30d might hold for low light sports shooting is the faster burst rate (5fps vs 3.5fps), and the fact that its ISO is under-rated.

 

A 30d shooting at "ISO 1600" or "ISO 3200" actually has a sensitivity of ISO 2000 or ISO 4000. An XSi is rated accurately, and at an REI of 1600, it's really shooting at 1600. This means you will have the deficit of a slower shutter speed with the same exposure settings.

 

All in all, the XSi, at least with my cursory inspection and usage, seems to be an excellent camera- and it's brand new. The 30d is an excellent, solid performer as well.

 

I think that if you're comfortable and happy with your XT (other than the focus perhaps), the XSi should be a joy to use and will be a huge upgrade to you.

 

If the extra size and weight aren't an issue, or the rear dial, and faster shooting speed of the 30d are important to you, I don't think you would go wrong choosing it, even though it's an older camera.

 

Basically, go hold and try out both cameras before you make your decision.

To answer the original poster's question- having extensively used Rebel XT, XTi, 20d, 30d, and other cameras in the xxxD and xxD range, I think a 30d outclasses an XTi in every respect.

<p>

Some people may find the light weight and diminutive size of the XTi to be an advantage, although they're a deficit for me (the camera is much too small to hold comfortably).

<p>

I'd recommend finding some way to hold and try each camera (although you may have to go through a private owner or used gear section at a camera store to find a 30d these days).

 

<p>

Here's another good thread on the XTi (400d) vs. 30d: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00MoHr">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00MoHr</a>

<P>

JDM: Many- maybe the majority- of factory refurbished items in the US market are returns to major retailers. These items are not allowed to be sold again as new, so they often end up going back to the distributor or manufacturer for some amount of credit, and are factory refurbished and resold. The number of factory refurbished electronics items available is enormous, and can be seen in any product category from MP3 players to photocopiers to televisions to cameras. It's actually extremely unlikely that the item had a major flaw.

 

In my personal experience, factory refurbished items, ranging from Sennheiser headphones to Canon lenses, have been cosmetically and functionally indistinguishable from factory-spec brand new items. Unlike "new" items, I've never had to return or exchange a refurb- they've always been perfect- probably because they undergo quite a list of checks and part replacements before resale- probably more than the typical item coming off of a factory assembly line.

This is almost entirely a function of Fill Light on contrast differentials. You'll probably notice similar behavior even if you do not decrease exposure or use the Recovery slider.

 

There are very few photos that can benefit from a Fill Light value of over 50 without also suffering from this type of noticeable artifacting.

 

It's a LR algorithmic deficiency, but luckily you have manual control over the Fill Light slider :-)

The normal URL for the No Words forum is:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/nw-fetch-msg?msg_id=xxxxx

 

The normal URL for viewing a message in other forums is:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=xxxxx

 

 

 

The problem is that forum message alert emails on a No-Words forum post return a

URL with "q-and-a-fetch-msg" instead of "nw-fetch-msg", so that any image with a

dimension of 512 pixels is linked to instead of inlined (whereas the

nw-fetch-msg script properly inlines the image), resulting in a poor viewing

experience.

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