richard_trochlil

I appreciate the quick response. Normally, I use a couple of pieces of plate glass, hinged by elect tape. Current one is over 40 yrs old. But once in a while I get a lot of film (usually TMX 100) that refuses to play the game so...

 

Anyway, I found the slots, loaded the film and it works.

 

Amazing.

 

Thanks again.

Well, I now have one of these things and its apparently too complex for me to

run, or there is something missing.

 

I see the slot for the paper. I see no slots for the film. Are they cleverly

hidden or is there a piece I don't have?

 

I have some Saunders proofers too, with the same problem. I just plain don't

see any slots for the film. As my film is in 6 neg strips, it is not too

useful, but even then....

Uh...Tri-X

This spring, in Egypt, my film got zapped at least 10 times (zapper at every museum and cultural site). I thought I'd have mush when I got home. Saw no effect, for what it's worth.

Well, I use the std. KODAK Fixer which I have used since the Dark Ages (before TV). You folks that have TMax lay flat, perchance you are using a non-hardening fixer?

 

Odd though, given the film base composition, I shouldn't think the fixer would have any effect.

Thanks for the info. I never thought of the plastic sheet idea. Sounds good.

 

I rarely use TMax, but happened onto a bunch of the stuff. And it does not dry flat, at least this batch doesn't.

For 40+ years I have been using a couple of sheets of plate glass hinged by

elec tape to proof my negs.

 

Well, that don't work so well with TMax. Handling the stuff is like handling

a basket of snakes.

 

Any good ideas out there other than tracking down a genuine 35 mm proofer?

Back 20 yrs ago or so, I found 1:1 was great for 35mm portraits. That was the only thing I used it for. Since then, my style in portraits has changed, I use 2 1/4 in HC-110.

Given the current situation, it has always seemed to me that the presence of a lead-lined bag in checked luggage would raise red flags all over the place, your luggage would be dismantled and all kinds of bad things happen to your possessions.

 

Is it possible that they can recognize the film through the bag? Otherwise, how do they know what is in it?

Well, gee, for 30+ years I have been doing thusly with Patterson reels.

 

1. Be sure everything is completely dry. Run the first roll in. After it passes the detent balls, continue the ratcheting action while lightly pressing alternately with your fingers moving the film until the end passes three times. When the right side ratchets forward, your right hand fingers should be pressing the flim, then the left side etc.

 

2. Then put the other roll in normally.

 

Never had a problem.

"...If you are using a hypo clearing agent after fixing (highly recommended to reduce wash times), you will want to make sure it is not more than 3 months old. This is one chemical that goes stale rather quickly. It's so cheap in volume, I use it in single shots, but it can also be reused..."

 

As in Hypo-Clear, is that the stock solution or the working solution?

Agfa 25 had all the characteristics you mention, particularly if you didn't wash it enough. I used to have to pre-rinse the stuff in several rinses to get it clear. I also used HC-110 which may have something to do with it.

"...Thanks, Bill. I was thinking of more direct action. I looked through the UBS website. The corporation supports cultural events, purchases art, and otherwise does arty things; but charity seems to be something that they either don't do or that they hide quite well..."

 

That sounds like the old argument that if the Pope really felt for the poor, he'd sell the Sistine Chapel and give them the money.

 

As for Evans, he was one of the few photographers whose photos were such that if I went to the place he took them, I would see the photo. Opposite of A. Adams where I always felt if I went to the photo site, I'd see nothing that looked like the photo.

I appreciate the good answers. I had never figured on the ramifications of somebody running your bid up just for the heck of seeing how high your bid is. Anyway, I average about a purchase every two years on e-bay, so I guess I won't bother to change my procedure. But I am copying your answers for some folk I know who use it a lot.

 

Thanks again.

I thought that e-bay allowed you to set some sort of max bid if you wished, and that was it. I have used it twice, got the item for below max once and got outbid the other, and refused to bid higher.

 

Now, what useful purpose does sniping provide other than the thrill of the chase? I have never understood it considering the set max bid option. I must be missing something here.

Uh..if you fill the tank all the way to the top, you can sometimes get this result. Be sure not to overfill.

 

Don't ask me why I know this.

Back about 1960 or so, you could buy a commercial monobath, oddly enough I think it was called 'Monobath' and probably made by Edwal.

Well, from what I can see, what you have is DARK streaks. The light streaks seem to be about the same density as the sky, it is the dark areas in between that make them stand out. So what causes dark streaks?

 

Well, too much developer flow will do it. So what makes the developer flow there and no where else?

 

And, I gather, it is intermittent.

 

You will also note that the lines seem to be in the pattern of a radius, with the center point off the photo somewhere. So if it is developer, what would make it flow in a radius pattern?

 

(Heh) You may have an usolvable scientific mystery here.

Occam's Razor says:

 

If the wash machine does not start, check first to see if it is plugged in.

What kind of tank are you using? Paterson. without the black plastic cylinder that goes through the center of the reel?

Are you using Nikkor type tanks? If so, maybe you overfilled. You have to leave a little space or strange things can happen to your film.

One wonders if there is not enough of a niche for Kodak to stay in. Unfortunately, I have a feeling they are overbuilt, too much investment in their B&W plant. Maybe if they spun it off, and ate the loss.....

 

My son is in the paper business and hears rumors that gaining photo paper is getting to be a problem. Plants don't want to fool with it, because it too is a niche market. That may kill B&W fiber photo paper quicker than anything, I am talking about the paper base, not the silver coating. I seem to remember Fred Picker having a problem with that.

Rumor going around the financial circles that Kodak grossly underestimated the impact of digital on their film sales, that the annual drop has been twice that anticpated which means their depreciation schedules will need looking at.

 

I guess we can brace for bad news from there...again.

"...People who still call a medium yellow "a K2" are too old and set in their ways to be allowed to print their photos on a computer..."

 

Careful how you talk. I can remember when Verichrome became Verichrome Pan. Now that is a long time ago. (Shucks, I can hear people asking; "What is Verichrome Pan?"}

 

It's K2 filter for me.

"...I think it means: if 250 gives still too deep shadows, shoot the next roll at 200.[/i]

 

I will try again. I have this camera, bright sun, set at f16/250 because that is the speed of the shutter.

 

That's EI of 250.

 

Now how do I get to EI of 200?