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nolan woodbury

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Posts posted by nolan woodbury

  1. Greg is right, send the camera to Mark Hama (770) 565-1498 and see what it will take. Mark worked for Yashica for 40 years, so he knows the score. Another option would be to purchase a repair manual, like the one written by Ed Romney (I haven't seen this, and can't vouch for it, but have heard good things) and give it a go. There is currently one on eBay (Item# 85681322) and I know he has a URL to order as well. Do a search for it.

     

    Good luck!

  2. Andrew and others: For a picture and brief info check:

     

    http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/kalloflex.html

     

    As a fellow collector, I must say..bravo! It looks like you have found yourself a very rare bird indeed. Some quick specs: Manufactured by Kowa Optical Works. Prominar 3.5/75mm, Seikosha shutter, B 1-1/500, and a concentric focus knob/crank-wind set up. Lever controls for shutter speed and f-stop. Looks to use Bay 1 like other semi-early TLR's (Rollei, Yashica, Ricoh, Minolta) Another interesting feature is the left hand shutter release. Any one have more info on the Prominar lens? Coated 4-element Tessar copy?

     

    I want one!

  3. Thanks James and Tim for the info on the 135 lens. Yes, I will agree that a sharp lens is more desirable. I'll also admit that what pleases one customer may not please another. A model with perfect skin, hair and teeth won't want (or need) a "soft" portrait. These subjects however, are rare.

     

    I'm glad I shoot motorcycles for fun and profit! They don't talk back, complain, and they stay put till your finished!

  4. Every 124G (including mine) I've seen makes a terrible noise advancing the film. Almost a grinding, ratcheting sound. My crank wind YashicaMat and 124 don't make the noise. OTOH, I've only checked out maybe 6 or 8 124G's over the last few years. Is it a sign of trouble? Who knows? But with the number of available Yashica 124's (I think they breed, to be honest) don't settle for anything your not completely happy with.

     

    $300 is a pretty good deal for that camera and the bit's you mentioned. But, for nearly the same money, you could find a nice Rolleicord, or for slightly more, a decent Rolleiflex MX. If your looking for the finest fixed-lens TLR from Japan, buy a Minolta Autocord.

  5. Nothing against Mamiya C330's, or the 135 lens, or any of the wonderful photography featured in this thread, but I do have a comment.

     

    In my (limited) portrait shooting, I've found people are _not_ very happy with razor sharp images. For classic motorcycles, yes, for landscape, most of the time...but a lens that shows every flaw, every dot, and every un-wanted hair is not the lens I'd use. Call me crazy, but the shots I get with my cheapie Yashica A folks rave about!! In available light, the images are magic..with glowing, soft hues that are very flattering...if not completely realistic. Just my 0.02.

  6. Russ, there are many places you can find these supplies, but I'll just name a couple I've used. Yes, the Autocord uses Bay I mounts, like Yashica TLR's, the early Rollei's, the Ricoh Diacords, ect. Any cap for these camera's will interchange, but the Minolta cap is the best quality one! Try Goodwin Photo in San Diego, Pacific Rim in Oregon, or Ritz Collectables in Phoenix. I have found hoods, caps, filters, and rare attachments at these places, and great deals on camera bodies now and then. All are on the web, or can be found at Jeff Albro's links and info page. As for lens shade, my favorite is a square Kodak unit made from polished aluminum, with a Tiffen Bay 1/screw adapter for colored or clear filters. Just make sure it isn't so large it blocks the viewing lens, and you should be OK. As for the cable release, route the cable down and around the base of your tripod with some slack in case you tilt or pan. Mine looks like a finger or something when it gets in the image.
  7. Mario, thanks for the info on the Yashica B! All of the data I've recieved on that camera has been second hand, so please; if you can, tell us more. Does anyone know of the whereabouts of one? The good folks at Pacific Rim said they had a couple in past years, but they are few and far between. Also Mario, I somewhat agree with your comments about finding a 4 element lens model (like your 124G) but suggest that you don't discount the older, 3 element models. They can produce some wonderful images. I prefer my 3 element Yashica's for shooting people over the 124, but like the 'Mat (and the other Tessar style lenses) for the vintage motorcycle images I sell.

     

    Speaking of Yashica TLR's, my last non-working one (a "C") is boxed up and ready to be shippped to Mark Hama for shutter repair. After that, I'll double my efforts to obtain a Yashica B. The hunt is on!

  8. On the "MD" opening page Lance, there is a archive of "Older Messages" with different category listings. The TLR info can be found there. I don't recall seeing this question asked before, but there is loads of useful info on Yashica TLR's.

     

    In basic terms, the Yashica A was a cheapie...3 element Yashimar taking lens, no bayonet mounts, and a small selection of shutter speeds and f-stop settings. Manual shutter cocking.

     

    The Yashica D was a much more sophisticated machine; 1 to 1/500 shutter speed selection, Bay 1 mounts, knob film advance and Rollei style "wheels" to set shutter speeds and f-stop. Although on-line information states this camera to have 3 element lenses, my "D" has the same, 4 element Tessar formula Yashinon taking lens found on the 'Mat's, the 124's and the 124G. Manual shutter.

     

    The Yashica C is closer to the "A" than the "D", with the Yashimar lens, knob wind, and Bay 1 mounts. The Yashica B? They exsist, however I've yet to see one even offered for sale. Information I've gathered says the camera was never imported, the few that are here in the US were most likely brought over by servicemen. I'm told they were very much like the "A", with knob wind, no bay mounts, but more shutter and f-stop control than found on the "A". Again, you have to cock the shutter with a lever located near the taking lens.

     

    I have all of these camera's in my user collection but the "B" (still looking!) and all can produce wonderful images. For tack sharp stuff, I prefer my Autocord, Rollei, or C330, but a camera like the "A" with it's lovely, "soft" 3 element Yashimar lens is a damn fine available light portrait camera. I love the feel and construction of these old Yashica's, they were built very well, and seem to last a lifetime with reasonable care. Don't fuss, don't muss...just buy one or two of them and enjoy yourself. If your serious, you'll pick-up other, more expensive and gadget filled units along the way, but if your like me, these wonderful camera's will hold a special place in your heart, and supply quality images that often shock owners of more expensive gear.

  9. With all the great things I've heard about the Beattie screen, reasonable thinking says it's my next move as well. I just purchased a lovely early 50's Rollei X, and despite the wonderful image quality, the VERY dim ground glass makes it almost impossible to shoot in anything other than bright daylight. Next to my Minolta Autocord (with original screen) it's like looking into a dark hole.

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  10. Hello fellow MF camera fans,

     

    I recently purchased a really nice Ricoh Diacord G via the Internet. I've been interested in finding one of these 4 element Tessar-copy Ricoh's because I have the two other Jap/Tessar style equipped camera's (Autocord and YashicaMat 124) that I think are wonderful, and wanted to compare them to the Diacord. Only problems: slightly sluggish at the very lowest shutter speeds, and a sticky f-stop selector. Last week I purchased another Diacord from Pacific Rim because I wanted the case and caps for my first one, the donor camera suffered from a dead shutter. But what wonderful shape it was in! Just very, very mint and perfect, nicer than the first one, like it had seen very few rolls. If any. Which one do I fix? What is easier; aperture repair (basically a CLA), or a non-functioning shutter? Since I already have one camera at Mark Hama's for repair, might as well find out what I'm in for.

     

    Thanks in advance for any answers, or discussion,

    Nolan Woodbury

  11. It's simple really.

     

    <p>

     

    All 120 film ( and 220; that I know of) will have a "start' line on the paper. Simply line this up with the two small arrows on the inside/back of your Autocord, shut the door, and advance the lever untill the frame counter clicks on "1". Your ready to shoot, and will get the full 12/24 exposures.

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  12. I agree completely with first poster! It's a fun old camera, very satisfying, fun to use and operate.

     

    <p>

     

    The real fun comes when you get your prints back. Usually, I use (for many different reasons) Fuji Reala 100 ASA print film, and love the rich, full color results. The lens can be made to go tack sharp, but do really well on skin tones as well. I always use a beefy tri-pod, a lens hood, clear filter, hand held meter, and shutter realese cable. I have three (one needs a lot of work!) and wouldn't trade them for anything! I don't even care about higher priced/interchangable lens stuff, cause I have a boat load of 35mm cameras and lenses to use for that. My only concern is what to do if one breaks, and thanks to a fellow member of this digest, I might have solved that problem as well. I still love my old Rollei, but with 16x20 enlargments, the one's from the Minolta's look better. But these are all old cameras, who's to say which one is in better shape that the other?

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  13. Buying used, older camera's can be tricky, and risky. However Gene, I've had really good luck with the used Japanese TLR's I've purchased. Once, I found a tattered grey leather Yashica A that had been robbed of parts and left for dead under the counter of a high-volume camera store. I paid $10 for it and took it home. A few hours on the small jeweler's lathe I have at my house gave me the missing knobs I needed (I made them out of some aluminum scraps I had lying around). The shutter still worked fine, but the taking lens was scratched and dull looking, and I also had to fix the bent/tweeked viewfinder lid. A scrap camera? Perhaps, but I gave it to my 14 year old son who is just getting interested in photography, and he won 1st prize in the school photo contest, double exposing a portrait of his favorite teacher super-imposed over a image of the American flag. The photo looked just super...really! I'm glad I didn't throw it away! So was he. He'll most likely keep it forever, ever after he gets better stuff.

     

    <p>

     

    One man's junk....!

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  14. I agree with the other posters. This problem sounds like light leakage, due to a ill fitting back, or poor sealing by the gaskets. Say goodbye, unless your really crafty, or know somebody who is (and works cheap).

     

    <p>

     

    I don't agree with the comments about the Yashica TLR's as good for nothing more than door stops! I have several, and have to say I'm inpressed by the results they offer....even the cheaper models like the "A" model, which is a great little "spur of the moment" portrait camera. I keep one loaded with film in my truck, just in case I see something interesting! It gets banged around and such, but never fails.

     

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    Try to find a mint used 124Mat, or 124G, attach a proper Bay 1 lens hood, use a shutter release cable, and give it a chance! I'm pretty sure you'll be pleased

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  15. I agree with the other posters. This problem sounds like light leakage, due to a ill fitting back, or poor sealing by the gaskets. Say goodbye, unless your really crafty, or know somebody who is (and works cheap).

     

    <p>

     

    I don't agree with the comments about the Yashica TLR's as good for nothing more than door stops! I have several, and have to say I'm inpressed by the results they offer....even the cheaper models like the "A" model, which is a great little "spur of the moment" portrait camera. I keep one loaded with film in my truck, just in case I see something interesting! It gets banged around and such, but never fails.

     

    <p>

     

    Try to find a mint used 124Mat, or 124G, attach a proper Bay 1 lens hood, use a shutter release cable, and give it a chance! I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed.

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  16. The Minolta has a excellent taking lens, a bright veiw screen, positive film advancement, and excellent film flatness. A truly great camera. It is also very durable, and offers as much (or more) quality than any other top line fixed lens TLR. I use mine a lot, and love them. I have Yashica, Rollei, and Mamiya, but like the 75mm lens on the Autocord (when used between say...f5.6 and f11) for my motorcycle portrait work better then any other camera I've tried.

    Negitives?

     

    <p>

     

    Well it's somewhat common for the knurled section of the focus lever to break off, but still it's usable, and all that's needed is care. I've found the instruction manuals on ebay and rec.photo marketplace. Seems the Minolta is quite a bit more popular than I thought when first getting into them. Like I said, I love mine!

  17. As with the others, I'd say avoid the Lubitel, I checked one out the other day and was _shocked_ by it's cheapness. No good.

     

    <p>

     

    Others have mentioned Mamiya C330 w/80mm (great choice, I have one) and the Yashica's (again, great choice, I have several, the best in my opinion is the YashicaMat 124) but don't forget the Minolta Autocord! A nice example can be found for $200 (or slightly above) on ebay (or other on-line bidding services, or News Groups) and they are just wonderful TLR camera's: Sturdy, excellent glass, and repairable. I have three, and really prefer the quality (for vintage Motorcycle portrait work) over everything I have, except the C330.

     

    <p>

     

    However, as the Mamiya cost 3 times more, the image quality isn't 3 times better. In fact, it isn't any better, it's just that the Mamiya is a nicer camera.

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  18. I'll say this:

     

    <p>

     

    As a freelance journalist and photographer, my subject matter has come

    TO LIFE with medium format.

     

    <p>

     

    There is just something about shooting a vintage European motorcycle

    with a vintage European camera. A depth, a quality that was missing

    before. A artistic difference...in the soul of the image. I FEEL better

    about the work when the work looks better. I love vintage things,

    be it cameras, furnature, people, anything of substance. While others are

    raving about digital this and that, I find simple pleasure in doing it

    the way the old timers did. Composing and viewing not just with my eyes,

    but with my mind. Medium (and large) format inspires me to do better,

    to think, and feel. I never feel that way shooting 35mm. I'm not saying

    everybody is wrong, and I'm right, that is just the way I gain my inspiration.

     

    <p>

     

    Oh yes, the large prints are killer too!

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  19. I feeling a need to defend the K1000!

     

    <p>

     

    I bought my K1000 in 1980, and 18 years

    later, it's still going strong. I have

    the usual assortment of k-mount lenses.

    (all Pentax btw, nothing aftermarket

    except a Vivitar zoom, I think) and I've

    had nothing but good luck with it! It has been through 2 motorcycle

    crashes, soaking wet, freezing cold, and dirt. I recently had

    a CLR done, but it never failed me. The K1000 has always provided me

    with excellent results, excellent prints!

     

    <p>

     

    To be honest, I'venever heard such talk, all the camera service tech's

    I've ever spoken with all have said the camera was a workhorse,

    a real gem. I'll admit, the metering isn't so great, but a dim viewfinder?

    What?

     

    <p>

     

    Worst camera? Kodak Disk. Yuck.

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  20. I just purchased (last week) 20 rolls of Reala from Smile photo.

     

    <p>

     

    I ordered these about 3 or 4 months ago, and they just recently

    called and explained the film had been on back order, and wondered if

    I still wanted it. The price was good (about $2.40 a roll) so I took it.

     

    <p>

     

    Perhaps they still have some in stock. I found their ad in "Shutterbug".

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan

  21. Hi everyone,

     

    <p>

     

    I'm considering purchasing a Rolleiflex 2.8C. I'd like feedback from

    people who have used this camera, and what the advantages this model

    has over the Rollei's (and other TRL's) with smaller lenses. The

    camera in question has a 2.8/80 Xenotar taking lens, and seems to be

    in reasonable shape. My subjects are usually stills of vintage

    motorcycles (taken with available light, with some fill if needed)

    and the rare portrait project.Current camera's include: Minolta

    Autocord, Rolleimat MX-EVS, Mamiya C330, and a full line of

    Yashica TLR's.

     

    <p>

     

    Thanks in advance for any/all insight!

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  22. The URL you mentioned in your question does -in fact- have a small section on the Yashicamat.

     

    <p>

     

    Except for a few small trim items (and the meter) my 'Mat is the same basic camera as a 124G. 4 element tessar formula lens, crank wind, Bay 1 mounts, and auto shutter cock. I must admit I've never seen a Luxamar lens model. I've heard of them though.

     

    <p>

     

    No matter. If the camera's leather is solid, the glass is clean, and the shutter is close (have it checked) it doesn't matter if it's a 3 or 4 element lens. $50-75 would be a steal. As you know, these units take amazing pictures. Amazing! Shame they still don't make it, but there seems to be a millon of 'em out there for sale!

     

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    I'd go for it! But then again I have 8 Yashica TLR's! (And more on the way)

     

    <p>

     

    Nolan Woodbury

  23. Quality older TLR's from Rolleiflex and Yashica can give fantastic results! I have a Rollei MX-EVS that has seen a A LOT of use, yet still delivers when things are on the line. My favorite Yashica TLR? The simple triplet lens, low cost "A" model! I get super, candid portrait style shots with this camera. I love to use it! Check around for a good one, you'll love it too.

     

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    Don't forget: there are other vintage TLR's worth your time as well. My favorite of all is the Minolta Autocord. The Rokkor/Tesser formula lens is absolutely the best I've used for tack sharp- perfect contrast images. Example of how well these camera's operate: I shoot vintage motorcycles at rallies and events, and there is always different photographer's with new Hassey or Rollei SLR's shooting as well. We compare our shots against each other's (as do the judges and promoters of these events, and they buy photo's for future promotion) and the chromes from my Autocord's come out on top almost everytime! As a result, my work is featured in the new "Cycle World" magazine...for the third time! For me, it all started with a $100 Autocord I bought on ebay. I now have three.

     

    <p>

     

    Get a good, beefy tripod, a quality light meter, a few lens filters (for black and white) and a lens hood. Add a cable release, and start shooting. Like someone else said so very well: You'll be hooked!

  24. I've been shooting with a Minolta Autocord for a few months now,

    after starting with a Rollei MX-EVS TLR. I find the view screen

    on the 'Cord to be much brighter, and love the focusing system.

    I now have 3 of them (plus the Rollei, and 3 more Yashica's: an old

    "A" model,a "D" and a Yashicamat) and I must say, I prefer the

    Autocord over all of them. Much better than the 124G that I tried.

    Superb lens,superb construction, and a quality feel. Even when I

    move up to higher priced, more versitle MF camera equipment, I'll

    keep the Autocord.

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