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yuri_wolf

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Posts posted by yuri_wolf

  1. <I>I believe that the Basques speak a language that is unrelated to any other.</I><BR><BR>

     

    Seems to be the prevailing opinion (<A HREF="http://www.ship.edu/~psych/languagefamilies.html">ref1</A>, <A HREF="http://www.lmp.ucla.edu/lmpweb/profiles/profg01.htm">ref2</A>), although some include it into Ibero-Caucasian language family (<A HREF="http://www.lmp.ucla.edu/lmpweb/profiles/profg01.htm">ref3</A>, <A HREF="http://www.yourdictionary.com/languages/ibercauc.html">ref4</A>) or elsewhere.

  2. <I>I read that Finnish was the most difficult language to learn, because <B>it doesn't have any relation to any other language on Earth</B>.</I><BR><BR>

     

    The emphasized part above is technically not true:<BR><BR>

     

    <TT>In all, about 23 million people speak the languages of the Finno-Ugrian language family. However, many of the languages are tiny: apart from Finnish, Estonian and Hungarian, they are all threatened minority tongues whose territories lie within the Russian Federation.</TT> (from <A HREF="http://virtual.finland.fi/finfo/english/langua.html">Virtual Finland</A>).<BR><BR>

     

    However, one can say that Finnish doesn't have <B>close</B> relationships with any other <B>Western European</B> language.<BR><BR>

     

    From what I've heard from people who've tried to actually learn it, the part about being very difficult seems to be true. :-)<BR><BR>

     

    Just being pedantic...

  3. Giampiero,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>To me, at least, it does seem that you are asking which lens to purchase/use (prime VS zoom) keeping dust intake as a sole consideration, in this case... I understand what you are asking but, there also implied references to the question which people are addressing.</I><BR><BR>

     

    Fair enough, it can be read this way. I've tried to make my question as direct and literal as possible, but...<BR><BR>

     

    Donald,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>I used to use my S2 only with primes, but now I primarily shoot with zooms. I find that I have to clean my sensor with equal frequency between the two types of lenses (about once every 1.5 months).</I><BR><BR>

     

    Oh! This is the info I've asked for. Thanks!<BR><BR>

     

    <I>It can be done in less than 1 minute. Make sure you do it in a low-dust zone....and watch out that you don't accidently trip the shutter close (that would be a disaster).</I><BR><BR>

     

    Did you ever have to do it outdoors? Do you normally use in-camera battery or outside power supply?<BR><BR>

     

    Thanks,

  4. Bob,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>I'm in two minds whether to publish the article I'm writing... I'd rather they learned from someone else, not me, then I don't get the blame when they screw up.</I><BR><BR>

     

    Please do. Photo.net already has plenty of info to harm "people who shouldn't", don't punish "people who should" because of that.<BR><BR>

     

    Anyway, "YOU AGREE THAT YOUR <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/terms-of-use">USE OF THIS SITE</A> IS AT YOUR SOLE RISK"...

  5. Bob,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>I'm currently wring an article for photo.net on that exact topic.</I><BR><BR>

     

    Glad to hear that. Then I'll wait for it, maybe the point really <B>is</B> moot (that's what I've asked in the first place).<BR><BR>

     

    <I>It's pretty easy, but then so is brain surgery.</I><BR><BR>

     

    Believe it or not, when I was regularly working in the field (as opposed to enjoying relatively brief outings for pleasure), a surgeon friend of mine taught me several emergency procedures including limb amputation (in the US this could probably get me in trouble, "but that was in another country; and besides..."). No, we didn't practiced.<BR><BR>

     

    Giampiero,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>I went from a G2 (my first digital camera) to a 10D because...</I><BR><BR>

     

    I was thrilled to learn the story of your photo gear ownership, although I still can't figure out how it answers my original question (or any other question in this thread).<BR><BR>

     

    <I>But, again...your photographic needs should be dictating the lens choice, not any other concern about dust.</I><BR><BR>

     

    "All generalizations are wrong". Most of us readily admit that concerns about weight, size, weatherproofing, and, not to forget, price do contribute to the choice beyond and above the photographic needs (after all, this is the reason you gave for choosing 10D over 1Ds). Why not dust?<BR><BR>

     

    For the record: I am not saying that sensor dusting <B>is</B> a factor one should consider (I, basically, confessed my ignorance on the subject by the very fact of asking the question). I appreciate your desire to help, but please note that I never asked "what lens should I buy?". Reading that I should choose my equipment according to my photographic needs is a good entertainment, but it does not exactly answers my question.

  6. <I>Sure sensor cleaning is a field proceedure... lots of people do it (myself included).</I><BR><BR>

     

    That's news for me, so far everything I've heard on the subject involved relatively clean environment and AC power source. Thanks for pointing this out. I'll try to look up the references myself (nothing directly relevant among straightforward Google hits, but one can play around with keywords), but would appreciate any first-hand accounts from photonetters.<BR><BR>

     

    <I>...to justify gluing a lens onto their SLR body so dust can't get in... Then you'll be able to sleep at night</I><BR><BR>

     

    Bob, I understand that you are trying to be sarcastic, but... C'mon, nobody talked about that.<BR><BR>

     

    Thanks anyway,

  7. Bob,<BR><BR>

     

    <I>What's the point? ... If the sensor gets dusty, clean it. Problem solved.</I><BR><BR>

     

    The point is that sensor cleaning, as I understand, is <B>not</B> a field procedure. If the difference is big, it's the difference between a successful and a ruined photoshoot. Is the difference <B>that</B> big? That's my question.<BR><BR>

     

    <I>It makes no sense at all to chose a lens on the basis of relative probabilities of getting dust on the sensor unless you simply don't care about the quality of your images.</I><BR><BR>

     

    That's not entirely fair. Considerations of weight and handling convenience sometimes force you to chose one system over another despite the differences in optical quality. Horses for courses and all that. Do people who take a minimal kit, say, to take pictures while mountaneering, "simply don't care about the quality of their images"? This is about a trade-off, as everything else.

  8. Dust on sensor is a fact of life in DSLR photography (refs <A

    HREF="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/1ds/1700-

    frames.shtml">M. Reichmann</A>, <A

    HREF="http://www.bythom.com/cleaning.htm">T. Hogan</A>). The general

    wisdom is to have the camera off and pointing down when switching

    lensdes and to switch lenses as little as possible. Simplistic

    reasoning would suggest using (hyper-)zooms to satisfy the latter

    requirement. However, there is a strong opinion that "zooms suck in

    lots of air and hence dust" (post by Puppy Face in Canon EOS Forum <A

    HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

    msg_id=005qJE">thread</A>).<BR><BR>

     

    My question is to DSLR users who shoot outdoors: <B>how shooting with

    primes (switching lenses often) compares with zooms (air getting in

    and out of the lens due to the volume change) in terms of dust?

    </B><BR><BR>

     

    Currently I shoot with a Nikon film SLR and a small collection of

    Nikkor and Sigma zooms and primes (I am not a pro). Even with zooms I

    tend to switch lenses fairly often in the field, so I expect problems

    when going digital.<BR><BR>

     

    For the record: I am aware of numerous optical, technical and

    aesthetical aspects of zooms vs. primes comparison (thanks to

    photo.net, in part). Many threads already cover the topics on whether

    shooting only primes will make you a better photographer or if zooms

    are really more convenient (e.g. <A

    HREF="http://www.photo.net/mjohnston/column20/">ref 1</A>, <A

    HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

    msg_id=000wf7">ref 2</A>, <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-

    a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0059kJ">ref 3</A>, <A

    HREF="http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/28zooms/">ref 4</A> etc.).

    If possible, I would like the specific question of letting dust into

    a digital camera addressed here.<BR><BR>

     

    Thanks,

  9. I have a P150 with a default 85mm f/2.8 Hektor-P2. I am quite satisfied with the brightness, colors and uniformity of lighting. Autofocus, however, consistently fails to produce a sharp image on my projector; I have to manually override it on every slide.

     

    I like European-style slide trays better then Kodak carousel (they are more compact), but in the US you lose compatibility with other people's projectors this way.

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