robd

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Yes, it only works with my "G" lens which is a 12-24...not really the lens that I use for the the majority of my shooting.

Ok, I'm a dinosaur.. still shooting with a D1.

 

I was out shooting a band the other night and in the middle of it I start

getting the blinking FEE on the display. I check and the lens is set to it's

minimum aperture. So I try another lens...same thing. Then I thought I must

have bent something changing lenses in the dark, but then the next lens I put

on worked.

 

Anyway, so now the camera will only recognize the DX lens and none of the

others these are all lenses I have been using with the camera for a while. I

tried alll the lenses on my F100 and it sees them all, so the problem is with

the D1. The lenses in questions are 3 Tokina's (80-200, 28-80 and a 12-24DX

and nikon 50mm and 24mm)if that helps any

 

Has anyone else ever had this issue or have have any ideas for a fix. I know

that I can pick up another D1 on ebay for around $250 but if I can fix this

one that would of course be better.

 

Any suggestions welcomed.

 

Thanks

Thanks everyone for your help. Lot's of good info.

 

Brett's answer pretty much gives me what I needed to know. I don't think I'll go any bigger then 1gb cards, since I don't like to keep too many eggs in one basket. And his positive experience with the 1gb cards pretty much sums it up.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Rob

Will the larger Cf cards 512, 1gb and over work in the D1's? I had a memory

vendor tell me that the D1's max out at 256mb cards and just want to confirm

before I buy.

 

Thanks in advance for any answers.

I attended one about 5 or 6 years ago. The one I want to was not a sales pitch but more like Buddhadev's experience.

BTW, the backround being dark is what causes your main subject to be overexposed. The flash tries to light the whole frame the best it can, it can't tell the backround from the main subject.

Program, portrait and night modes won't help you. You need to take control of your camera. Go to the top of the page. Click on "Learn", then on "Taking Pictures" and then on "Concerts". Print it out and read it several times. Then do what it says.

 

Also consider using some b&w film w/o flash for bands that use lots of colored lights.

Another Mustang<div></div>

Why is it that the POW doesn't display at the top of the thread when

you go into it from the POW forum. (at least it doesn't for me) Seems

that displaying the POW picture at the top of the weekly threads

would be nice. That's how it displays when I go to it from the main

photo.net page.

 

Just wondering..

"until I attach the SB-26. Then the camera insist on using ONLY 1/60@f4... "

 

 

Look up "flash sync speed" in the manual.

Actually I have my cmaera with me today so I just tried it. I put the camera in P mode and turned the rear dial one click and it went into P*. After it went into P* every click of the read command dial changed the aperture and the shutter speed changed accordingly along with it, to maintain the "proper" exposure.

 

BTW, I have the rear command dial set to control the aperture and if I remember correctly, this was a custom setting change, so your rear dial may set shutter speed instead of aperture.

 

I assume the F5 will work the same way as the F100.

In P* you should be able to adjust either the aperture or the shutter speed and the other one will also change accordingly, to maintain the recommended exposure. So if the camera is reading 1/60 and f4, and you change the aperture to f2.8, the shutter speed should change to 1/125 along with it..to maintain the same exposure. At least this is how it worked on my 6006, but come to think of it, since the F5 only uses command dials you may only be able to change either the shutter or the fstop with the front dial while in P*.

 

But I have never used a P mode since I got my F100, so this is only a guess.

If I remember correctly you should be able to change the shutter speed and aperture somewhat in P* but not P, but I haven't used a P mode in 7 years so it's a little rusty.

 

An F5 is a quite an expensive point and shoot.

 

Try checking out the S and A modes and read the manual again.

 

Good luck

It also has to do with how good your post processing computer skills are. You have to learn how to get the most out of your equipment and how to properly process the file before printing it. I can good quality 8x10's from much less then 6mp files.

Nevermind, I guess. I looked at other questions in this forum and they display fine, it is just this question does not.

I'm using IE6 with 800x600 and I have to use the scroll bar on the bottom of the screen to read the end of most sentences. The gray bar on the right isn't even on the screen unless I scroll over for it.

 

Shouldn't it detect that I'm set to 800x600 and make the screen disply smaller?

 

It would majorly suck to have to keep scrolling the screen left and right with the mouse to read anything.

Manually meter off of their skin (neck or face) and open up 1 stop.

The flash zoom sets to 14mm when the diffusion dome is attached, so the flash must know when the dome is on.

 

From pg 25 of the manual..

The zoom-head position is automatically set at 14mm when the Nikon Diffusion Dome is attached.

What was my biggest mistake in buying equipment??

 

It was thinking that it would improve my photography. ;_)

"Will I get all the same benefits of buying 100 speed film? I.e. finer grain, etc.? "

 

 

No.

look here for 10 or so reviews, http://www.nikonlinks.com/.

 

I have had a 6006 for 7 or 8 years, great camera, lot of features, it is now a backup for my f100.

 

Cons - slow autofocus, no MLU (f100 doesn't either), no DOF preview.

 

Pros - lots of features, spot meter, slow, front and rear curtain sync, flash compensation can be set by the camera (makes flash comp. available with 3rd party flash units), it's light, single, constant or manual focus, P/A/S/M modes and... it's cheap on the used market.

Ditch the tours and rent a car, drive past where the rental car companys tell you to stop. Then walk away from the parking lots, since most tourists don't get too far from them.

 

A helicopter tour is a must.

 

Haleakala and the road to Hana (and Hana) by far my favorites.

 

I used a book called Hidden Hawaii which gave great directions to many unknown (for the most part) locations. The red sand beach behind the Elementary School in Hana I can particuarly recommend.

I have a USA 50mm 1.8 new in the box with the 5 year USA warranty card. It's been mounted on my camera to make sure it worked but I don't think I ever took a picture with it. I came into some $$ and bought a new camera and a 28-80 2.8 zoom and the 50 never made it back out of the box.

 

Yours for $100 plus shipping

 

I also have a 24mm 2.8 if anyone is interested. (Used but in good condition, not a D lens)

I don't know. I didn't pay attention to that. I just remember that I had to keep pushing on/off the button to take the flash off of standby or it would not fire. I'll try to remember check it and get back to you, but life's kind of busy right now.