gary green

Hi Chuck,

I had a similar problem with my Argoflex Forty camera  that I discussed here (LINK) and also solved it it a similar manner.

@rick_drawbridge A thumbs up for "Going Up", Rick.  That shot has a classic film noir cinematic feel to it.  There's a sense of impending drama about to unfold.  I'm expecting the shadow of a sinister villain to appear on the far wall at any second.  Very nice.

A couple from the Nettar 518/16 with f4.5 Novar.  Shot on Kentmere Pan 400 and developed in HC-110.

Twist-N-Seal

Doo The Right Thing

A collage of the April 8 solar eclipse from Cedarville, Ohio.  I used an old Focal-brand 17x spotting scope aimed at one of those cheap home movies transfer devices that consists of a front-surface mirror that reflects onto a small viewing screen.  Took pictures of the screen with my Moto G Stylus 5G (2022) phone.

I haven't posted in this forum for quite some time given that my primary interest is in old film cameras.  However, I took my Pentax K5 fitted with an old Sigma 70-300 APO Macro II lens to Cedarville, Ohio for the eclipse.  I was expecting about 2 minutes of totality but got less than a minutes worth.  This is a crop of my best shot (dummy me ... I was initially trying to use autofocus and wasted precious time).

Rain is forecast for this weekend but the next camera I plan to use is this Zeiss-Ikon Nettar model  518/16 6x6 folder with coated 75mm f4.5 Novar and 5-speed "Velio" shutter.  It's also known as the "Signal Nettar" because of the red flag that pops up in the viewfinder to remind you to wind the film (as part of the double exposure prevention mechanism) after each exposure.

For March 28th, a scene I've shot (too) many times.  This time with the Retina Type 010 with coated USA Ektar 50mm f3.5.  Flic Film Ultra Pan 100 developed in HC-110.

7 hours ago, chuck_foreman1 said:

Some rolls never seem to find an end.... Real nice.. is the 010? a prewar Retina? I guess not as the Ektar IIRC was a "lumenized" postwar lens?  Excellent pics!!

Thanks Chuck.  Yep, it's a post-war Retina 1 with the coated ("lumenized") USA Ektar lens.  The date code on the lens is 1946 (EO).

I *finally* finished the roll in my Kodak Retina Type 010 with the USA Ektar.  There's still a light leak that showed up in only a couple of frames so I'll have to track it down.

Flic Film Ultra Pan 100 developed in HC-110.

Very nice, Rick.  I love the classic, black-bodied SLR design.  I hope that battery lasts a good long time!  My first SLR, a Canon T50 (a gift from my wife), came with a short zoom Albinar lens that I was quite satisfied with.  Your images look great as usual.

It's also possible those expensive cameras were too complicated for him.  🤔

You'd think the U. S. govt could have paid him enough to buy a Kodak Ektra, Bell & Howell Foton,  or a Kardon.

11 minutes ago, chuck_foreman1 said:

Here's the link to Henry (Contax God ) Scherer's discussion on the framing problems for the Super Ikonta

 

http://zeisscamera.com/articles_spacing.shtml

RE: Gary Green advice.. Well said, professional instead of friends... I appreciate your reply! 

 

Thanks Chuck.  I hope I didn't sound condescending.  I guess there's a risk anytime you loan valuable equipment to friends that they'll either lose it, break it, or forget to return it.  I currently have a camera on loan to a friend who borrowed it for a vacation last autumn.  I still haven't received it back and, while I'm not in any real need of it,  it puts me in the uncomfortable position of having to ask for it to be returned.  I'm fairly certain if I don't, I'll never see it again.

@chuck_foreman1 Wow Chuck, that is a sad story!  I think there's a lesson in there as well ... i.e., keep relationships professional when handing over valuable equipment for repairs.

I hope you eventually get your 532/16 back but it doesn't sound promising.

@Rick_van_Nooij I would love to have a parts camera to salvage from.  Maybe I'll look for a cheaper 530/16 model that's being sold for parts.  The problem is trusting the seller to disclose the real condition of the camera.  It seems most of them feign ignorance when it comes to the operating condition of old cameras.

Regarding the prisms, I was fortunate that mine only needed their external surfaces cleaned and I was careful to not disassemble/disturb them during the cleaning.

@bruce_z._li2 Hi Bruce.  I like your proposed solution and had considered it myself.  It just seems sacrilegious to drill through such a classic camera.  However, I may reconsider since this approach allows all 12 frames to be used.

I bought this Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 6x6 rangefinder at a local shop mostly on a whim.  Of course, I recognized the camera and had read about its amazing build quality, but I wasn't really familiar with its controls.  Had I been, I would have realized before I purchased it that the "automatic" frame counter/winder mechanism was not working correctly.  Otherwise, the camera was in excellent condition barring the usual issues that are remedied by a CLA.

After removing the top cover and inspecting the linkage between the winding crank and the frame counter, I discovered that the small brass pinion gear beneath the crank wheel was stripped.  Evidently, some previous user, unfamiliar with the wind interlock, torqued a little too hard on the crank and stripped the gear..

Unfortunately, there's no easy workaround for the stripped gear because the frame counter window on the back door is positioned for 6x9 images and is only intended for winding to the first frame and then letting the automatic frame counter take over from there.  In its current condition, the only reliable way to wind the film is to use the 6x9 frame counter window which only allows 8 frames per roll (instead of 12).

This is an early version of the 532/16 model which was reportedly introduced in 1937.  The lens serial number dates to 1936 and the body serial number is prefixed with a "C" which indicates a 1936/1937 build date (I was unable to find a more accurate description of body serial numbers).

After cleaning the lens, shutter, and viewfinder, and calibrating the focus and rangefinder, I took it out for a test run.  I wasn't sure what to expect from the uncoated 80mm f2.8 Tessar since I'd read that its design was over-ambitious and that only the later, post-war reformulated Tessars gave good results.  However, after developing the negatives, I was more than satisfied with the results.  Here is an example of a close focus shot with a fairly wide aperture.  I focused on the chain and padlock.  First is the full image followed by a crop of just the focused area.

I'm not sure if it's possible to get the stripped winding gear replaced or not.  If not, I probably won't be doing much shooting with this camera.  Note that  even when working perfectly, the Zeiss designers could only get the automatic frame winder mechanism accurate enough to provide 11 frames per roll. 

For the 11th, Bridal Veil Falls, Kagawong, Ontario, Canada.  No. 1 Pocket Kodak Junior, Arista Ultra EDU 100, Caffenol-C.

@mjferron My guess is that someone else, who ordered a bargain condition Nikon F, received a very nice F3 instead and is celebrating their good fortune.

You're right though.  The customer service leaves a lot to be desired.

@arthur_mcculloch2 Every good party has at least one guy show up with a lampshade on his head!

For Feb 1, a photo from last summer.  Universal Meteor 6x6 camera, Arista 100 b&w film, developed in HC-110.

Tractor Show

Some boring test shots from the first roll through my Agfa Jsolette with 85mm, f4.5 Apotar lens featured in the "What camera ..." thread.  Nothing artsy here.  I managed to take advantage of a lull in the rain to get these shots.  My goal was to test basic exposure and focus as well as ensuring the bellows were light-tight.  All shots hand held.  Since the lens is scale focused, I used a laser distance measure to determine the focus setting.

Film was Kentmere Pan 400 developed in HC-110.

Close focus test - 3ft - 1/100 @ f5.6

Mid-distance test - 15ft - 1/100 @ f5.6

200% crop of black label on switch box

Distance test - 50ft - 1/100 @ f8

100% crop of windmill tower

Overall, I was very pleased with these initial results.  Focus is accurate, exposures were good (for a dull day), and the Apotar lens has good center sharpness.  Out-of-focus rendering (bokeh) is also pleasing.

A recent addition to my collection is this Agfa Jsolette (late model - 1946-1950) with its somewhat unusual cast hydronalium top cover, Compur-Rapid shutter and uncoated, 85mm, f4.5 Apotar triplet lens.  This particular sample has some wear and a few minor issues.  The double exposure lockout mechanism isn't functional and I didn't bother to fix it since I find it annoying anyway.  Also, the Bulb setting on the shutter is hit or miss.  Sometimes, the shutter stays open, other times it closes immediately.  Not really a big concern since I rarely use the Bulb setting (although I may try to fix it at some point).  All other speeds are fine after cleaning.

The camera arrived with the typical frozen focus and dirty shutter, both of which were remedied.  Thankfully, the bellows are in good shape with no discernible pinholes.

It's been two weeks of heavy overcast and off and on showers.  I managed to sneak in a test roll today during a lull in the rain.  Will post some shots in the weekly thread.

Very nice compositions and use of color, Bruce! @bruce_z._li2

This is probably a dumb question but did you set the film speed selector on the camera properly?  If so, did you try changing it to a lower ASA/ISO number to see whether this affected the meter reading in bright light?  This may provide a clue to where the problem is.