m

I use a Monaco spider, OttLight, and built a mat-board visor around my monitor. I have a window with blinds nearby and the OttLight seems to match it (comparing during daytime). Incandescent bulbs seem to really mess with red/green perception. I've started using 5000 deg. on my monitor. Still learning color mgmt. More emphasis should be placed on this issue with many photographers.

For the soft window effect, I use the Photogenic 1250 with a 7' OctoDome very close to the subject. Nice wrap-around effect.

For classical concerts I used to use NPZ, 1/30, f4 and bracket with a Hass. Not as sharp as I'd like, but was all I could do. Used negative for more latitude. There would be at least 2 stops difference on stage, from front to back. Would try not to blow out the highlights, and Photoshop in some of the face shadows. Now I started shooting RAW digital, have a 50mm/1.4 and other primes. Definitely tripod.

 

Digital has a low latitude like chrome, but I'm hoping RAW 12-bit will give me a little more.

Great responses from the heavies! I rented a Speedotron dish today and liked it (it had a translucent center + a fabric cover over the whole thing. I'd like to get one to fit a monolight. Any ideas? I have a couple of Photogenics but their dish looks a little primitive (or has anyone tried it?). The Speedo and Norman only seem to fit lights w/packs.

 

<a href="http://www.camerared.com/images/boxdish280h.jpg"><img src="http://www.camerared.com/images/boxdish280h.jpg" width="560" height="280" border="0">

http://www.camerared.com/images/boxdish280h.jpg

Anyone have a method on using a beauty dish? I understand it gives

both hard (with a diffused open center) and soft light. Do you need

to feather with the penumbra? How close? Where does the umbra go - on

the body or over the face? I already read Kodak's Portrait on this.

What effects do you want it to give and what do you do to control

it? - specular lights on the face? Catchlights? Chin/nose shadows?

Light direction? I know the obvious answer is "whatever you want it

to look like" but I'd like to know your prefs. I have 3 strobes and

some softboxes.

 

Thanks!

I hardly use the 80mm - the 150mm is the most versatile for me for portraits. Subjects start looking short & fat w/80mm, and it's hard to throw the background out of focus. I also use a 250mm when I have patience. I got 150/4 & 250/5.6 for approx. $500 ea on ebay (old silver style).

 

Anyone know how to delete images from the portfolio on this site?

I was looking for this answer - thanks! I was shooting a portrait w/250mm. First I roughed out lighting w/digital camera. The used a Polaroid back and the prints all came out black. I switched to a backup 150mm and things were fine. When I got home the 250mm was on "M". Maybe I should have some old flashbulbs...

<center><img src="http://www.camerared.com/images/female/sunmi280h.jpg" width="280" height="280" border="0"></center>

To pull T-Max 100 two stops, I use D-76 1:3 for 10 min. (vs. D-76 1:1 for 9.5 min). Skin comes out with a little glow, less shadow.

 

1:3= e.g. 4oz. D-76 + 12oz. water

Subject: Second Curtain Sync w/Pentax 645n & strobes or Sunpak

 

I want to fire strobes at the end of the curtain (so my moving

subject can blur the 1/8th or so shutter speed) and capture a sharp

face at the end of motion.

I don't see any second curtain sync on the camera. I tried a Sunpak

flash as a slave since it has a 2nd curtain sync button, but in

simple testing without film, it flashes at the start of a long

shutter speed (i.e. 1 sec), not at the end like I expected.

 

I want to use hotlights to illuminate the "blur" and use strobes to

capture the end of motion. If I can't delay the strobes, I'll have to

reverse the motion so it comes out right. (I realize the tungsten +

daylight issue, but this can be B&W)

 

Can anyone suggest a solution to this, or is there a black box on the

market that will delay the strobe?

 

Thanks! Mike

My Pentax 645n shutter jams about once every 20 times - I have to

take the lens off and give the mirror a push, then it goes thru with

its operation, including opening, flash, closing. I've tried to

duplicate it while inspecting it - seems like it does it with or

without the lens/film/settings on or off.

 

Anyone else have this problem and know what's causing it?

Thanks!

 

I have a 120mm and a 45mm af lens. I should have bought it at Don's

Camera in Dallas or B&H/Adorama rather than Royal Camera in Brooklyn

(for many reasons).