havanai

<p>All very old entries here. I just went to Breathing Color web-site and they now sell some of their papers in sheets and also sell sample packs. Has anyone used their products in 2014-2015? What do you think? I'm most interested in luster finishes or mat.</p>

<p>In the last 15 years I have gone on several "workshops", mostly to European destinations. Some trip leaders are better than others and some workshops have more experienced clientele. My last trip was not that well-led and most of the people in the group were relative beginners. How do I find well-led trips with better, more experienced photographers?<br>

Have any of you here travelled with Peter Turnley, Nevada Weir, George Jardine, or Photo Workshop Adventures (Michael Chinnici)? Any recommendations?</p>

 

<p>Big "thank you" Ellis. I looked at both Meyerson's and Kernan's web-sites and they would both be good choices. Unfortunately I didn't find a match in terms of dates and locations. But I will keep pursuing them.</p>

<p>I am thinking of taking two consecutive workshops from George DeWolfe through the Santa Fe Workshops. One is on creative vision and it's called "Authenticity" and the other is on black-and-white printing. Has anyone taken a workshop from Mr. DeWolfe? Good? Bad?</p>

<p>Howard, here's a link to the February 2014 trip by Keimig and Martin.<br /> http://www.thenightskye.com/tours/iceland-winter/</p>

<p>Interesting comments on the cloudiness. I've been more concerned about the temperatures. Sounds as if you would recommend spring/summer, more than February Jon.</p>

<p>There seem to be more and more photo-trips to Iceland in February, and they seem to focus on the Northern Lights and landscapes. Apparently the Gulfstream goes that far north and it's not as cold as one would imagine. But it still seems crazy, though the vistas and ice formations look spectacular.<br>

Has anyone gone to Iceland in the middle of winter? With whom? And how was it?<br>

Kurt</p>

<p>There are now several tours going to Iceland in February. Has anyone gone to Iceland for Northern Lights and winter landscapes? Is that crazy?</p>

<p>My sister makes jewelry and needs a camera with which to take close-up and extreme close-ups shots of her work. I am a photographer, but generally work with and am aware of DSLRs. Does anyone know of a good point and shoot camera that has good macro capabilities when compared with other point and shoot cameras? Thanks.</p>

<p>These questions have been on my mind for some time, but I am about to buy a new printer and now they are more urgent. Over the years, I have had two outside services create icc printer profiles for my printer and the papers I use. But they are both out of business now. In my experience, the profiles I have had custom made have yielded better results than the profiles provided by the paper manufacturers. So, I now would like to buy one of the calibrating packages that will calibrate my monitor AND enable me to create icc profiles for my printer/paper combinations. <br>

Are there any strong reasons to select one calibration package over another? Spyder, ColorMunki, i1…what else is there? I am using an HP ZR22w monitor. My workroom has a lot of windows and, even with adjustable blinds, the light is variable during the day. It's very different in here when days are cloudy or bright. And sometimes I work at night too. If one device has a meaningful and reliable response mechanism to changing light conditions, that might be valuable to me. I am likely upgrade from an Epson 1400 to the 3880. I’ve been using HahneMuhle Bamboo and Inkpress Luster papers. I’d like to try some others, maybe from Red River or Canson, or some of the Epson papers.<br>

Can anyone recommend, for my consideration, one of the packages that calibrates monitors and makes icc profiles for printers with various papers? Thanks for any input.</p>

<p>These questions have been on my mind for some time, but I am about to buy a new printer and now they are more urgent. Over the years, I have had two outside services create icc printer profiles for my printer and the papers I use. But they are both out of business now. In my experience, the profiles I have had custom made have yielded better results than the profiles provided by the paper manufacturers. So, I now would like to buy one of the calibrating packages that will calibrate my monitor AND enable me to create icc profiles for my printer/paper combinations. <br>

Are there any strong reasons to select one calibration package over another? Spyder, ColorMunki, i1…what else is there? I am using an HP ZR22w monitor. My workroom has a lot of windows and, even with adjustable blinds, the light is variable during the day. It's very different in here when days are cloudy or bright. And sometimes I work at night too. If one device has a meaningful and reliable response mechanism to changing light conditions, that might be valuable to me. I am likely upgrade from an Epson 1400 to the 3880. I’ve been using HahneMuhle Bamboo and Inkpress Luster papers. I’d like to try some others, maybe from Red River or Canson, or some of the Epson papers.<br>

Can anyone recommend, for my consideration, one of the packages that calibrates monitors and makes icc profiles for printers with various papers? Thanks for any input.</p>

<p>I have used Epson's 1400 for a few years. And for some reason, now I am considering updating to their 1430. Has anyone here on photo.net done that update to the newer printer? Are the Claria HD inks any better than the Claria inks that the 1400 uses? Geez, I just looked at the 79-series of inks I have always used in my 1400. The packaging says they are for the 1400 and the 1430. Did they change the inks? If the wireless connectivity in unimportant to me, is there any reason to update to this newer version?</p>

<p>By the way, in the most recent edition of Professional Photographer a panel of 30 pros select the best products released between Jan 1, 2012 and March 31, 2013. In all four printer categories they chose Canon products. They're listed below. This shocked me as Epson has dominated photo-printing seemingly forever. About 4 years ago, I bought a Canon 9500 and, maybe I got a lemon, but it was garbage. Muddy-brown blacks, dull flat colors, had to leave top/bottom/side margins of an inch or more between image-edge and paper's edge. Calumet Photographic accepted my return of the product. And that's when I bought my Epson 1400. Here are winners in Professional Photographer's "Hot One Awards 2013":<br>

Less than $500 - Canon Pixma Pro-100<br>

$500 - $1000 - Canon Pixma Pro-10<br>

$1000 - $5000 - Canon ImageProGraf iPF6450<br>

More than $5000 - Canon ImageProGraf iPF9400<br>

Has anyone tried any of these?</p>

 

<p><br />What would float my boat? Among the answers would be greater dynamic range, snappy/deep/crisp blacks, black & white printing without residual color toning, vivid color in color images, ease of printing without the need for individual printer/paper icc profiles, less expensive ink. And as I said, I am a devotee of dye-based inks. So I would like to see all of the above in a dye-based printer, prints from which were rated to last 100+ years.</p>

Is there anything new in the Epson printer pipeline? Is it just me, or have there been no significant advances or new printers in two or three years? 3880? How old is that model now? I must admit to being a devotee of dye-based inks because I still think they provide more vivid color and snappier blacks than pigment-based inks. I use a 1400 that evolved ever so slightly into the 1430. I keep hoping for new dye-based formulations that provide more longevity than the existing inks. But in all the periodicals I read, and web-sties I follow, there just seems to be nothing new from Epson...or any other meaningful printer manufacturer.

 

<p>William, Thanks a lot. This enabled me to do exactly what I wanted to do. Turns out my selection is Continuous. But, after putting each of the five cards in, I switched each of my to Manual Reset. Then I went to Select Folder to accomplish the reset. After doing all five cards, I switched back to Continous, shot image 0001 with card A, image 0002 with Card B, image 0003 with Card C, etc.<br>

Funny thing is, I entered the same question to Canon's official support. Good news and bad news: Good news is that the replied pretty promptly. Bad news is they told me I could not do what I wanted to do. Not possible they said. I posed my question to them with the exact same text I entered above, here at photo.net. Glad you had a better answer than they did. Thanks again.<br>

Kurt</p>

<p>William, Thanks a lot. This enabled me to do exactly what I wanted to do. Turns out my selection is Continuous. But, after putting each of the five cards in, I switched each of my to Manual Reset. Then I went to Select Folder to accomplish the reset. After doing all five cards, I switched back to Continous, shot image 0001 with card A, image 0002 with Card B, image 0003 with Card C, etc.<br>

Funny thing is, I entered the same question to Canon's official support. Good news and bad news: Good news is that the replied pretty promptly. Bad news is they told me I could not do what I wanted to do. Not possible they said. I posed my question to them with the exact same text I entered above, here at photo.net. Glad you had a better answer than they did. Thanks again.<br>

Kurt</p>

<p>I am on vacation and do not have my Canon 5D MkII manual with me. I am carrying five CF cards with me. Is there a function in the camera with which I can re-set the image number, the internal counter, to set the number to zero on all five cards? <br>

The way I have the camera set now, when I put in a new card, the camera’s image-counter starts counting from the higher of a) the number last used in the camera or b) the last image-number on the new card I just inserted. I’ve shot the last 2,000 images with the same card and just shot my 10,038^th image with this camera. So the counter went to 0038. But if I put one of my other cards in the camera, if the last image I shot with that one was 4072, the camera will number the next image 4073. I want to set the counter on all for cards at zero so I can know when the camera hits it 20,000^th image. I hope this is comprehensible.</p>

<p>Found some of your photos, liked 'em, and I have enrolled in a Resnick-workshop. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Thank you so much for your input. This helps a lot. Hmmm, but neither of you have photos posted here.</p>

<p>Has anyone taken a photo workshop with Lorne Resnick? I am interested in going out of the country on one of his workshops. Any good?</p>

<p>Captured among the well-known wilderness areas just outside of Chicago....uh huh.</p><div></div>

<p>Capturing fall foliage among the well-known wilderness areas near Chicago...uh huh. <br>

(Sorry, initially attached a file that was too big. Can't find a way to delete this)</p>

<p>Capturing Fall Foliage, in the well-known wilderness area outside of Chicago. ;-)</p>

<p>I have been a Lightroom user for a long time. Yesterday I won a copy of Capture One Pro 6. At the seminar I attended there was a one-hour intro to Capture One. The instructor focused mainly on "conveniences", e.g. applying adjustments to many images at once. He spent no time on any quality advantages of Capture One vs. Lightroom. Are there any?<br>

Is anyone using Capture One Pro 6? In terms of quality of the RAW conversion to .TIF, are there any significant performance differences between the two programs? I like the image organization capabilities in Lightroom and I like its printing capabilities as well. Unless the RAW conversion process is much better in Capture One, I don't know why I'd switch.<br>

Thanks.</p>