villaverde, justin
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Posts posted by villaverde, justin
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<p>As mentioned above, Kerry Park and Gas Works Park a good spots. Beacon Hill just south of Seattle is another option. There are a few bridges to the east of I-5 that offer some good lines from there. There's 1 example from Beacon Hill and another from Gas Works Park in my <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=543644">Panoramas (Blended and Merged)</a> portfolio.</p>
<p>Have a great trip.</p>
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It motivates me to get off my lazy a$$ and get out of the house instead of watching TV and playing on the PC.
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<p>I use the same Really Right Stuff pano package that Ellis linked to. I prefer PTGui over Photomerge. Currently I use a 50mm or 105mm for multi-row and sometimes a 35mm for single row panos, but have had success with my 12-24 as well. Like others have said, shoot vertically, turn off autofocus and use the same exposure for all frames unless you're shooting HDR panos (PTGui Pro can now assemble HDR panos, but I've never used it for that). Also, finding the nodal point on the lens will reduce parallax errors that can hurt the blending process. <a href="http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/techtutorials/technotes/nodalptalign-tn.html" target="_blank">Here's a tutorial.</a></p>
<p>I've never played with 360 panos, but you can see some of my multi row panos on the bottom of the page here:<br />
<a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/panoramas/panoramas2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.jvphotography.net/panoramas/panoramas2.htm</a></p>
<p>Justin</p>
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<p>You can also try a program called <a href="http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html">Startrails</a>. It combines multiple exposures into one long exposure. I haven't used
it myself, but a friend uses it and has had some pretty good successes. My D200 has heat blooming and noise problems with exposures over 10 minutes, which is too short for decent trails and this program should help with that issue as well.</p>
<p>Justin</p>
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<p>I used <a href="http://www.foliagenetwork.com" target="_blank">The Foliage Network</a> when I lived on the east coast. I found it to be quite accurate and very useful. Most of my trips were throughout the mid-Atlantic. However, now that I'm back on the left coast I would love to hear some recommendations.<br />
<br />
Justin</p>
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<p>Josh,</p>
<p>I can't provide much help because my star trail attempts with my D200 haven't been successful either. I attempted to shoot startails and meteors during the Persied shower with no successful images. I varied the ISO from 100 to 800 and the shutter speed from 2 mins to 15 mins. I'm pretty sure the aperture was f5.6. I found that my D200 has obvious heat blooming on exposures of 10 mins or more (not sure if that's normal). However, I have been able to shoot around 25 5-15 minute exposures before my battery died, so a 25 minute exposure on one battery seems pretty short.</p>
<p>My only real successes came while shooting under a full moon. I was able to capture short startrails, but that wasn't the main objective. Here's a link to an image shot at ISO 100, f5.6, 5 min, RAW w/ auto WB:</p>
<p>I would love to hear from others that have had success with their D200s.</p>
<p>Justin</p>
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Bob,
<p>I'm not quite sure why the xml version didn't work, but I added a .doc version that should open within IE or MS Word.</p>
<p>Photoshop CS2 introduced and automated HDR feature that creates 32 bit files designed to merge multiple files like you describe. However, I, like Edward, prefer to do it manually.</p>
<p>When making "HDR panos" I prefer to blend each part of the pano before I stitch them simply because it takes me less time and RAM to blend each single image rather then the entire pano at once. There is also a chance that the pano software will create different versions based on each exposure, because the control points may not be the same.</p>
<p>Here's a link to a HDR pano I made with 3 different exposures of 5 vertical frames: <a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/06OregonTrip/Portland_Pano_0679-0693.jpg" target="_blank">Portland at Night</a></p>
<p>Justin</p>
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I do the same thing as Edward. I haven't had much luck with Photoshop's HDR either. I have a short essay describing my workflow on my website. <a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/essays/essays1.htm" target="_blank">link
</a>
<p>I use <a href="http://www.ptgui.com/" target="_blank">PTGui</a> to stich my panos. I have it do the blending and warping and then output in layers for Photoshop, so I can make addition corrections. PTGui will accept 8 and 16 bit files.</p>
<p>Have fun and make sure you post your images,<br>
Justin</p>
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Thanks for all the help. I decided to go with a full color version, but I muted the colors a little to soften the look.
Justin
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<p>I need some help. I would like to give a friend a print of a candid shot I
took of her daughter. I created 2 selective color versions, one sepia toned,
the other B&W. Here are some links to the images:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/06OregonTrip/GenevaSepia0626.jpg"
target="_blank">1. Sepia Toned</a> - I was told this look "doll like"
and that the red flowers were a distraction.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/06OregonTrip/GenevaSelectC0626.jpg"
target="_blank">2. B&W</a> - Same red flowers.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.jvphotography.net/06OregonTrip/Geneva0626.jpg"
target="_blank">3. The Original Image</a> - slightly cropped, but that's about
it.</p>
<p>I would love some suggestions on improvements and critiques of this shot.
Should I ditch the selective color? Is the B&W a better choice? I'm not
really into people photography, so my experience is pretty limited. I spend
most of my time shooting nature, wildlife, and cityscapes. Any feedback would
be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance,<br>
Justin
</p>
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<p>I live near DC and shoot their all the time, most of the time using a tripod because I love panoramas and night photography. While I've been questioned by security/police/secret service a few times and asked to move once or twice, I've never been asked about a permit. I follow the generic rule of not blocking foot or vehicle trafic. The only real issue I've ever had was an attempt to photograph buildings at Georgetown University, which is private property.</p>
<p>Here's are some links I found about permits in DC:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.nps.gov/archive/fiis/permits/film/film.html" target="_blank">http://www.nps.gov/archive/fiis/permits/film/film.html</a>- The NPS runs the enitre National Mall area and monument areas in DC.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/06/08/AR2006060800182.html" target="_blank">http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/06/08/AR2006060800182.html</a>- A Washington Post article about possible fees (permits) for wedding photography on the Mall.</p>
<p>Justin</p>
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I'll add the Sigma 100-300mm f4 HSM to the discussion. It's an excellent performer in it's price range (good focus speed, contrast and sharpness when between f5.6 - f13). I like it better at 300mm then the 70-200mm f2.8 with a 1.4TC, but the 70-200mm is sharper without the TC. At 3lbs it's not heavy at all.
The Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 is awesome, but it's nearly triple the price and double the weight. Both of which made me choose the 100-300mm f4.
Of course, I'd agree with Robert and say the Nikon 300mm f2.8 AF-S is awesome, but it's $4k and 6lbs.
Justin
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I'd choose the Nikon 85mm unless you need macro. However, a word of warning, all of these lenses will depend on your D50's focus motor (none are AF-S lenses), which will limit their effectiveness when shooting sports. Expect hunting and slow focus speeds from all.
I'm not sure if either of the macros has a focus limiter, but if they do not I would eliminate both of them. I expect that they do since they are both newer designs, but it's something to look for.
Justin
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<p>There's enough open space on the hill to get out from behind Lincoln and get the shot with all the Lincoln, Washington and the Capitol in full view. Focus shouldn't be an issue since you'll be far enough away that all the monuments will be at infinity at most focal lengths. For some reason I can't find an example of this shot my collection even though I know I shot it. I remember using my 80-200mm, but I can't remember the focal length. I'm not sure that my shot was very successful, which would explain why I can't find it. I've had it on my list to reshoot because the Marine Corps Memorial was also under renovation while I was there.<br>
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The GW Parkway is too close to water level to see anything other then Lincoln and the top of Washington. You really have to up on the hill to the west. My best advice is to walk to whole area and see what view you like best.<br>
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Here's a link to a shot taken from near the Netherlands Carillon (not mine):<br>
<p>Have fun,<br>
Justin </p>
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<p>This shot can be taken from the ground. There's a pathway leading from the Marine Corps Memorial to the Netherlands Carillon in Arlington Cemetery. There's some parking near the the Marine Corps Memorial. </p>
<p>Here's a link to a map of the area. The Marine Corps Memorial is called the Iwo Jima Memorial in Google Maps. The Netherlands Carillon is to the south. There is also some open area to the north.<br>
<a href="http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&om=1&z=15&ll=38.890632,-77.066388&spn=0.02542,0.039911">Google Maps Link</a></p>
<p>The shot may be better from the top of the buildings, but it's still doable from the ground.</p>
<p>Justin</p>
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I owned the lens and used it with both a D70 and F100. I too found the AF to be horrible. Optically the lens is good 2 stops down until f16. But if you're shooting anything moving you'll want an AFS lens.
Around the same price range you'll find the Sigma 100-300 f4 HSM(Sigma's AFS), which performs great on my D200. It is as good optically as the 80-400 with greatly improved AF, but no VR. However, since you already have an 18-200 and assuming you're happy with that lens from 100-200, I would look at Nikon's 300mm f4 AFS and add the Nikon 1.4TC. Even with the TC it should be optically comparable to the 80-400 with both lenses at 400/420mm.
Justin
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I'm sure the 200-400mm f4 is an excellent lens, but again price and weight eliminate it from my list just like the 400mm f2.8 and the 500mm f4. I tried the 80-400 VR, but the focus speed was a problem on both a D70 and D200. I currently use a Sigma 100-300 f4, which provides acceptable reach, sharpness, and focus speed. However, the performance drops off significantly when using a 1.4x TC. That is the main reason why I'm shopping for a 400-500mm lens. My interest in wildlife photography and hiking simply prohibit large heavy lenses and make AF a necessity.
I agree that we're seeing way too much focus on the consumer lens market. There are simply too many lenses that seem to overlap each other.
It's nice to know that others share my opinion. Now if only Nikon would as well.
Justin
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Am I the only one that would love to own this lens? I cannot afford or have the
desire to carry a 400mm f2.8. I know Canon has both versions of this lens, but
I love my Nikon gear and could use a little more reach then the 300mm f4.0 and
still have the same teleconverter performance. I could live without VR since I
tend to use a monopod or tripod, but excellent AF-S performance is a must.
And a 500mm f5.6 would be a nice option as well. I think Nikon is seriously
lacking in long primes and in turn missing a large market. Pricing these lenses
between $1k - 2k US should attract quite a few buyers assume the quality is
similar to the Canon equivalents that are in the same price range.
Just thought I'd share my opinion and see if anyone agrees.
Justin
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Richard,
I grew up in Kona on the Big Island and my mother still lives there, so I get back home now and then. I currently live near DC, so I know the pain you're facing with the long flight. The luxurious hotels are found in the middle of lava fields in north Kona know as the Kohala Coast which is about 25 miles from Kailua. They are true resorts with everything any vacationers need found on them including PGA quality golf courses and most hotels also can set you up with tours, diving, and helicopter rides if you don't want to do much research.
As for what to see, Volcanoes National Park is a must see and an all day trip. As previously mentioned, the eastern side (Hilo side) is the wet side which also makes is home to some amazing waterfalls, like Akaka Falls, and some beautiful botanical gardens, including the Japanese gardens in downtown Hilo. About 30 miles north of Hilo is Waipio Valley, a tour to the bottom will lead to some hidden waterfalls and other photogenic scenes. The northern part of the island is paniolo country (the Hawaiian cowboy) some ranches provide horseback tours as well. The west side (Kona side) offers the most variety and is the best side for ocean activity. Scuba diving is not necessary, snorkeling will be fine. The hotel should have rentals and advice about where to go. Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (City of Refuge) is a decent snorkeling spot and also a good place to learn about Hawaiian history. Small/private guided tours are your best bet to find hidden spots.
Someone mentioned that the Big Island isn't known for its beaches. That just simply isn't true. It's true that a lot of the coast is rocky, but by no means will finding a beach be a problem.
Hope this helps,
Justin
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I'm planning a 3 day drive through western MD and northern WV this weekend. I
plan to stop at Harpers Ferry, WV, Cumberland, MD, and Morgantown, WV. I'm
going to stick to mostly back roads rather then interstates. I'm hoping that
someone can suggest some good stops along the way. I'm looking for
photogenic/historic buildings (churches, old railroad stations, mills,
barns/farms, etc), good fall foliage areas (I know its about a week early for
peak colors), and any other random suggested stops. I have a good mapping
program and GPS, so I'm not really worried about getting lost.
Also are there any B&Bs/hotels anyone can suggest. I've been to Harpers Ferry
before, but not much further West from my home base in Columbia, MD.
Thanks in advance.
Justin
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Another great way to add some speed is to upgrade your HD to a Western Digital Raptor. They are no longer outrageously expensive and make a huge difference in load times of all programs. My single 150gb 10,000rpm Raptor runs measurably faster then the previous Raid 0 dual 7200rpm drives.
The best configuration is to use the Raptor for your OS and all programs and other drives for data storage (photos, movies, mp3s) as the Raptor's $/gb is still much higher then other drives. File storage does not require fast access.
Justin
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Thanks for the link. I'm also a DC local. I've never had problems with a tripod on the mall, but I've always been there at night or in the early morning when foot traffic was not an issue.
My question is if anyone knows if tripods can be used on tours inside the Capitol? I've yet to take that tour.
Justin
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Howard,
Thanks for those articles. The PhotoshopNews one sold me on adding another 4gb, since memory is pretty cheap. Other setting changes have really made an impact on CS2's speed. I'm sure it will take more optimizing when I add the additional RAM, but at the moment my settings look like:
Memory Usage: 75%, Cache Level: 6 (I do use a lot of layers), Scratch disc on my non-OS array, History: 30.
There is still some slow down on 300-500mb panos, but I can deal with that.
Thanks everyone, Justin
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I set the Memory Usage to 75% and it seems to run better. It still hits the scratch disc on some of my larger panos though. I'll try to change the history and cache levels and see if that has any affect.
One new question, being that this is my first dual core system, am I correct in assuming that if I add 2 more gb of RAM for a total of 4gb that each core will see 2gb of RAM and since Photoshop CS2 uses dual processors it sound like that would almost completely solve my issue because that would give me a huge amount of memory headroom. Does that sound correct? Or will Photoshop still only be allowed to have 2gb total?
Thanks for all these great responses,
Justin
3 days in and around Aspen, CO
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