ardea

Thanks a lot for the good tips...With the tray dimensions provided and some other sluething in order to print up to 20x24. I can determine my sink size.

I'm somewhat limited for space, 6'x 14' being all that is available but I'm glad to have that. Being from south Florida (Florida Keys)getting or making cold water will be somewhat of a bother.

Thanks again for all the help.

Regards, Richard

Good morning,

I'm in the design stage of building a darkroom and need to know the

actual size of developing trays to determine my sink size. At present

the largest size I plan on printing is 16x20 inches. I'm trying to

find the actual outside dimensions of Leedal or Paterson trays of

this "size". Could anyone out there measure their trays and tell me

the real size and brand?

Thanks so much,

Richard Martel

What a fun site...Thanks so much for your informed comments and your valuable time.

I was not having any focusing problems...at least not yet. My basic question was answered. Stopping down to f22 or (with respect to Mr. Salomon) f32, probably covers most manufacturing tolerances.

Mr Salomon raised a point that modern 150mm lenses "perform optimally at f22..." and at smaller f stops diffraction starts to degrade the image. If one NEEDED the depth of field afforded by, say f32 or 45 would not the diffraction loses be less than the "out of focus" loss from using the optimum (f22) stop?

I will go back over your kind posts and try to glean more info. Thanks so much...Happy new year.

Regards, Richard

Your right Brian I should have said plane of focus.

Thanks, Richard

Hi George

Sorry to be so dense but I don't understand how the formula was derived. The number "3.84 mm" is well over 1/8 of an inch and most likely well beyond the most gross mfg. error in filmholders or GG location. I believe the number 32 representing f 32 is just the ratio of the focal length to aperture diameter or A= FL/fstop #. Where 150/32=4.69=A for an aperture of 4.69mm. I'm not that versed in mathamatics but I would have thought that one would have to use actual values of A to determine how far the CoC lies, forward or aft of the rear focal point. If my assumptions are incorrect please don't hesitate to enlighten me.

Thanks, Richard

I'm a newbie to LF so please bear with me.

I have noticed lately and in the archives, problems some people are

having with unsharp negatives when the image appeared sharp on the

GG. It seems that most folks feel that the problem can be traced to a

difference in film plane to ground glass plane. Theres a whole lot of

measuring going on.

Out of curiosity I measured my new Shen-Hoa 4X5 GG distance,Toyo &

Fidelity film holders and found maximum deviation of three and a

half thousandths (.0035") or .09mm.

Now the question/s. Assuming a circle of confusion (CoF) of two and

a half thousandths (.0025") or .06 mm. A 150 mm lens focused at inf.

and stopped down to f32. How far forward and behind the film plane

will the above CoC lie? I just wonder if using the above values does

the CoC lie beyond most mfg. tolerances and slight film bowing.

Thanks..Richard Martel, Florida Keys

Leonard

I would tend to trust your dial indicater. Although it may not be that accurate,it should be quite repeatable to within a thousandth of an inch, (.001"). My suggestion would be to measure your film holders for depth with film inserted. I'm sure five measurements at each corner and averaged would give one a good base line for each film holder. I would then assertain where the image falls on the ground glass. For example the Bossscreen image falls on the paraffin surface that lies between the "ground Glass"; sometimes the ground on the ground glass is not facing the lens. That would be the point of measurement....but I am sure you know that. Basically measure your ground glass holder like you would measure your film holders.

Try measuring the distance on your GG holder to see if it matches the filmholder distance....

Merry Christmas

Richard

Merry Christmas!

All of you 8x10 folks may find this Ebay item number of some interest.

I have NO interest in this at all. I don't know who is putting it up

for sale. Just passing along this info for those that may miss it.

Ebay item # 1947171691

Thanks so much for the info that I requested...Food for thought. I think placing small notches in the film holder flap using a simple code system will do the trick....Thanks again and thanks for helping make this site a place to exchange thoughts and ideas...Cookies for all.

Regards, Richard

Hi...One of the helpful features on on my Canon EOS 1V was that it

numbered the film leader with a sequential number and of course, the

film frame numbers were imprinted also. This helped a lot ID'ing film

and exposure. Being a newbie to LF I was wondering how to ID the Film

after development. It's easy to ID the film holder, but more

difficult to relate the film to that holder number and then to your

field notes. Sometimes it's easy but other times the exposure

differences are too subtle for these old eyes. Now to the point. How

do the experienced shooters tackle this problem? I have this idea

that I will share for thought.

On the border of the film there are narrow areas that remain

unexposed. These areas are masked by the film retainers in the

filmholders. I'm thinking of drilling holes just through the retainer

with a #60 or #65 (around .035" or 0.9mm) twist drill and locate the

holes in a sequence that will relate to the number of the film

holder. The holes, being drilled in the masked area, should appear on

the unused portion of the film (unless that area of the neg was a

very low zone). This would also help locate film holders that are

leaking.

IE this would be the hole code for number 3 film holder, ...

This would be number 8, . ...

and this number 13, .. ...

- well you get the idea.

I would like to hear what you all think, pro AND con or any other

ideas.

Thanks so much for reading this,

Richard Martel Florida Keys

Would you please explain why, in your opinion, Wally should stay with fiber base paper ?

Thanks,

Richard Martel

Dear Christopher

I believe the camera you are refering to is the Shen Hoa, Mfg. in China. I ordered one from Badger Graphics, not knowing what to expect.

I must say that I was more than pleased at the Quality of workmanship at the price of a bit over $600.I was a tool and die maker (among other pursuits)and can get pretty picky when it comes to judging "STUFF". I'm pretty happy with the Hardware and fit and finish. Controls are fairly smooth. I have been using it for a bit over a month and so far I think I got a very good deal.

Regards and good luck, Richard

Check out this;

homepages.ihug.com.au/~cbird/index3.html

if that fails try a search forCarey Bird.

Regards,Richard, Florida Keys

Dear Lacey,

I don't think one can "expect too much" but working within the design criteria of a field camera where weight and folded size are paramount goals this camera meets them well and the ridgidity of the front standard,I believe,falls well within the accepted levels of "stiffness" associated with this type of camera. Just tighten everything down...Now if I can just remember to do that...

Regards, Richard

Dear Lacey,

I don't think one can "expect too much" but working within the design criteria of a field camera where weight and folded size are paramount goals this camera meets them well and the ridgidity of the front standard,I believe,falls well within the accepted levels of "stiffness" associated with this type of camera. Just tighten everything down...Now if I can just remember to do that...

Regards, Richard

Hello

I'm new to LF photography and just bought a Shen Hao camera from

Badger. For an inexpensive camera the quality of workmanship is quite

hi. I was prepared to be dissapointed at that price level, being

trained as a tool and die maker, but was pleasently surprised. Now to

the question; Does any one use a jewelers loupe that attatches to and

rotates out of the way on glasses to focus on the GG? It would be

nice to have both hands free.

Thank you,

Richard Martel...Florida Keys. PS any LF users in the keys?

What is the latest on the proposed SE Florida workshop? I lost the

original link

Richard Martel

I would be interested also.

Richard Martel, Florida Keys

305-743-9206