ardea

Thanks for the info...Richard

Hello,

I just purchased a 1800f from the boys in New York for LF/MF scans.

It came bundled with Mikroteks ScanWizard and SilverFast Ai6.

 

Intallation for both softwares was a breeze.

 

Using the ScanWizard, a quick reflective scan from a higloss

magazine cover that had a models face and numerous colors was

outstanding for color fidelity when opened in PS8 considering there

was no color calibration performed.

As I use Silverfast Ai6 for my Epson 3200 I tried Scanning a

4x5 'chrome at 48 bits using the bundled SilverFast(SF), the scan

was very clean with a little noise in the deep shadows. Not anywhere

near the noise of the same image from my Epson 3200. Scan time was

considerable faster too.

Trying to see if I could improve on the shadow noise I clicked on

the Multiple Sampling icon on the SF toolbar and selected 4 passes.

(one can perform 1,2,4,8,16 passes on the Epson 3200) I would

normally do 4 or 8 passes on my 3200 and that cleaned up the shadows

very well, but try as I might the 1800f would only do 1 pass even

though you could select 1 thu 16. Reading the manual, at the last

resort, states that "availability of this feature depends apon the

scanner model used". I wonder if the 1800f does not support this

feature. So have any of you using the 1800f with the bundled Ai6 run

into this problem?

Thanks, Richard

Peter...I not sure what you say is completly true re perspective control on the 4 Gig camera. If you look at one of the photo's showing the camera you can see two dial indicators. One may indicate tilt the other swing. But you may be correct about rise. Interesting camera nonetheless.

Hello,

 

I'm using a Shen-Hao 6x12 RFH on my 4x5 with fine results. Although the rollers are small, the ridges they impart to the film falls between the frames so it's not an issue as it would be with a 6x7 etc. Film flatness and distance from film emulsion to the outer surface of the holder were spot on in my holder. I did a writeup on it somewere on this site. For the price you can't go wrong. I scan the images using Doug Fishers well made 120 filmholder that handles 6x12 and other 120RF sizes for flatbed scanners. He can be reached at; filmholder@earthlink.net . I scan with an Epson 3200 and the results for me are excellent. Funny, I'm in the market for a Fuji GSW690III. They sure bring top prices though....Good luck, Richard

There are a couple of Linhof aerial cameras on ...Can I say it?

ebay...R

My findings with Fuji Acros & DD-X

 

DD-X 1+9 @ 75F

 

Exposure Index (EI) for Normal (N)development time EI 84

 

Jobo CPP-2

 

Jobo 3010 drum

 

Rotation speed: Setting # 4

 

Temperature: 75 F

 

Prewash with water for 2 minutes

 

Development times in minutes & exposure index: N-2, 6.5', EI 50; N-1, 7.5', EI 62; N, 8.5', EI 84; N+1, 10', EI 100; N+2, 14.5' ,EI 130.

 

Ilfostop; 45 seconds

 

Fix; Kodak 1+1 15 minutes (This long fix time will clear the neg of it's pink color.

 

I know you asked about D-76 and Xtol but thought this may be of interest to you and others.

 

Richard, Florida Keys

Hi Ann..I don't believe a "mirror " image is the same as a reversed image. If one hold an image or text upright and facing the mirror the mirror neither turns it upside down or reverses it. The text that you will see in the mirror is backwards not reversed. Repectfully, Richard

As an expert in most fields that I know very little about I recall reading that the image that's projected onto the retina is upside down and reversed. Somehow our mind corrects this illusion... (maybe it is not an illusion. Watching and rreading the news these days one can believe the world really is upside down and reversed)...Anyway your ophthamologist can fit you with a pair of glasses that invert and reverse the world view. After fooling your brain for awhile it, not you? catches on to the trick of the glasses and your brain flips the images again and you see the world right side up again (only through the glases. Take the glasses of and everything is upside down and reversed again. Then look at the image in the groundglass it will be rightside up (true story...Remember I said I was an expert) Gee that sounds like a good idea..I've convinced myself.

On second thought Purchase a Arca-Swiss 4x5 F metric with M orbix and send to me for extensive testing. On a side note I have to invert all my images I receive from the Southern latitudes, so maybe you have a camera that was originally sold in Australia (sorry mates). If all else fails do a Google search on "The Flat Earth Society"

Good Luck...Richard

Brian...I do not know the answer to your question. Maybe someone more knowledgable than I can answer that. Or, you can ask Jeff at Badger Graphics. He seems to be quite astute on these matters.

Good luck..Richard

Walter

 

Just received the Ilford DD-x and plan on testing this week..Thanks for your reply.

 

Regards, Richard

A while back I posted a description of the Shen-Hao roll film holder

(RFH) in 6x12 format.It did not include any testing or field use.

 

After using the RFH and receiving the film back I can say that I'm

more than happy with the results.

 

The lens I used most on the Shen-Hao camera and RFH was a Rodenstock

Apo-Sironar-S. 150mm f5.6

 

Basically the RFH is in two parts, the magazine section that contains

the film, transport/take up mechanism and the Graflok back that

accepts the magazine and mounts to the camera. When you try to remove

the magazine one must try to pull it out without cocking it from side

to side or it tends to stick in Graflok back portion. This sounds

like more of a problem that it is, and after you remove/replace the

magazine a few times it becomes a non issue.

 

Reviewing the film that was processed I'm glad to say the

registration and spacing was fine with about a 3/8" (9.5MM) spacing

between frames. Since this RFH uses a wind up knob for the film

transport and you must watch the the numbers in the window for proper

spacing this distance can vary a bit but if you get the proper number

in the proper (upper) window you will be fine. The film indexing

sequence is 1-3-5-7-9-11 and those numbers must appear in the upper

6x12 window.

 

Under a 8x loupe images are sharp edge to edge including corners, a

testament to the lens and RFH. Also there are no roller artifacts in

the image area as the image area never rests on the rollers. There

appears to be no flm flatness issue for all practical purposes. One

roll was left in the RFH with three exposures for a week with no

adverse film effects.

 

Overall I think that value for (......)insert currency type, is

outstanding. This RFH does not have the fit, finish or mechanical

feel of the hi end roll film holders but it will do the job for a lot

less.

 

I did make a 6x12 mask from black matting board that fits atop my GG

for composition which I like better than the tick marks on the GG.

 

I have no affiliation with any photo company or Jeff at Badger

graphics where I purchased the RFH.

 

Regards, Richard

Looking through the threads DD-X seems to work well with this film at

1:6 dilution (70F., sheet/tray) but the 6 minute N development would

appear to make N-2 times on the short side and possibly cause uneven

development. I would like to use 75F.as my processing temp. and a

more dilute concentration. Has anyone worked with this combination at

around 75F. ?

Thanks, Richard Martel, Florida Keys

It is interesting to note that many of you are musically inclined (I wish I were) I have noticed that most folks I know who are gifted in music are also mathematically inclined. Is that the case here also?

Flying, astronomy, sailing, fine rifles & revolvers, tool&die and woodwork, Motorcycle racing and skydiving in my younger days.Richard Martel

Jeff...I believe you will find what you need from; Small Parts Inc. Miami Lakes, FL 305-557-8222. Ask for their catalog.

 

Good luck, Richard

I would find a thin wall piece of tubing, either stainless steel or brass, from a hobby shop or a "real" hardware store, that has an ID (inside diameter)that is barely larger than the pins OD (outside diameter). Cut off a short length of tubing using an abrasive cutoff wheel or a very fine hacksaw blade or jewlers saw so you don't collapse the tube. Next, file small teeth into one end of the tube and you will have a small "hole drill". Center this drill over the pin and using a power drill or adding some tape to the non toothed end of your home made hole saw twirl it back and forth with your fingers untill the drill frees the offending pin. Just take your time and remove the drill often and blow around the hole that your drill is making because there is no way the "chips" the drill is making can escape. Then plug the hole with matching wood a glue. When the glue dries, pare down the plug, flush to the surface whith a SHARP chisel. Finish to match the surrounding wood..Good luck

Hi Michael

 

Are you using PMK developed negatives to print on Ilford MG IV FB Matte ? If so, how are the highlights developing? I ask, as I'm sure you know, the stain color of PMK tends to "muddy" the lighter areas on VC paper.

 

Thanks, Richard...Florida Keys

Jeff...I recall the price was around twenty dollars and I bought it from Donegon. Ken was kind enough to list the site link. Looking at the Behr catalog on that site, the item is listed as 55S-2. You will have to call Donegon for prices...good luck. Richard

Back sometime I posted a question regarding a jewlers loupe for

focusing and was asked to share my findings. I'm 65 years young and

have 20/20 distant vision but do need reading glasses (2.5 diopter)

for the up close stuff. I purchased a clip on loupe from Donegon

Optical Co. It is a Behr loupe, model 55, 2" single. It has a spring

loaded clip that allows it to be attatched to the earpiece portion of

the eyeglass frame. You can rotate the optical portion of the loupe

into your field of view for critical focusing. With just the reading

glasses I can back away, about 12", from the GG while under the cloth

compose and rough focus then flip the loupe down for the fine

control. It is equivalent to my hand held 6x Scheider and it leaves

my hands free. I like it...your milage may vary....Regards,

Richard

Yo! Vinney....Check the thread on Shen-hao from a week ago.

Mine arrived yesterday

I just received my Shen Hao 6x12 Graphlock back RFH from Badger

Graphic, ($395)which is a bit of a savings over the Horseman and a

$1000 buck savings over a Linhoff. Now at $395 I don't expect the fit

and finish or ease of use of the high end RF holders but for the

price (and return policy of Badger Graphics)it was worth a try. My

concern was of the complaints I have read about RFH leaving a ridge

on the film from the abrupt turn the film makes around the roller

closest to the unexposed roll. When the film remains in the holder

and rests for any length of time, the crease is evident and when

wound onto the image area it bulges up and will cause the image to be

out of focus on the bulge. The Linhoff RFH has a large diameter

rollor to solve that problem. My intent is to use this RFH only for

6x12 so all observation pertain to that format.

Upon opening the box I was surprised not to find any paperwork or

film take up spool. The RFH appears to be quite well made, better

than I expected. The main body,I believe,is an injected molded

casting or lost wax casting in two parts and some stamped metal

parts.There are no voids in the aluminum parts and the fit and finish

(anodized) are quite good. The two stamped metal clips on either end

that hold the film holder portion to the Graphlock/dark slide part

are a little tacky and a bit awkward to use but they work.The dark

slide is (I hope) Stainless Steel and works smoothly. It is a bit of

a bother to get the film holder portion of the back out of and into

the mounting part that fits to the camera. The film holder portion

tends to "cock" when your remove or replace the film holder part.This

is less of a problem when it is attatched to the camera though.Dense

foam rubber material is used for the light tite end baffles and only

time will tell how they will endure. The film platten is a dimpled

spring loaded plate that hold the film to stamped metal tracks, held

in place by screws to the main body casting. Two small rollers, 2mm

(.080")help guide the film on and off the mask opening. Loading the

film is straight forward. Two spring loaded knurled knobs on the

bottom of each end of the holder work well (At least down here in the

Florida Keys..In Minnesota a 40 below with gloves on I don't think so)

But they are a bit small. The film advance knob on the upper right,

is grooved and would be very functional with gloves on. It operates

smoothly with a Sprague clutch turning only one way. On the back are

two clear plastic covered windows to view the numbers on the paper

film backing. One window is marked 6x6 & 6x12 the other window 6x4.5

& 6x9.A sliding door covers and uncovers both windows. It also has a

film reminder pocket to hold the film box end...Nifty. The holder

also came with a mask for 6x9. This mask is made from 1.3mm (.052")

plate and masks 54x87mm. It is held in place by four screws.

Now onto the 6x12 that actually measures 54x110mm. That's not bad, it

still gives a 1:2 ratio. The roller that the film passes over on the

way to the film plane is 7.7mm (.316")in diameter. The film makes an

acute bend around this roller and does have a marked ridge if left

there for very long, but it is not a factor when using this holder

as a 6x12 because the crease advances past the mask opening when

moving to the next frame.

One can get 6 exposures from a 120 roll (You cannot use 220 ). The

number sequence using the 6x12 window is; 1-3-5-7-9-11. I found this

order by running a roll of film through the holder to check for

roller bulge, film flattness and registration. There is a 10.3mm

(.430") space between frames.

I have not measured the distance from the back to the film plane to

compare it with other holders or the GG.

All things considered it is most likely worth the bucks. Time and

photos will tell the story..

 

Regards, Richard

IMO if you can screw the adapter ring down untill "it is fully seated" and you can unscrew it, it is most likely not cross theading. When it is fully seated is there even clearance/contact between the adapter and lens? If this is so then I would doubt that it is cross threaded. I would look to the adapter as the problem. Aluminun to aluminum as is most likely the case in the lens to adapter, can be quite "sticky" or "gritty" feeling and can sometimes seize and be blamed on "crossthreading" I would try a filter or other adapter of the same thread size and see if they fit better. The best test (other than a hardened and ground steel GO/NOGO thread pitch gage) would be a BRASS bodied filter like B+W. Dissimilar metals don't tend to stick and high quality filter bodies are most likely machined to closer tolerances. But first look at the periphery of the lens by the threaded area and look for dents or dings. These can be squeezed out if thay are present.

Good luck...And let us know. Regards Richard

I'm unable to access the Navy site also. I have used it in the past.

The Nautical Almanac will not give the information you seek unless you solve a sight reduction problem in which case you would not need the Almanac. I believe the magazine "outdoor Photographer" publishes the info you seek...Richard

Ernie..Is that with or without gas checks?

Richard