jemini_joseph

Thanks for the answers guys. I was leaning towars Matt's direction. <br> Brian, do you have IS too? I don't have IS. I like to use Velvia when ever I can. So my shutter speed is around or below 100 most of the time. I've got very sharp results with lens alone even at shutter speed 1/20s without MLU or cable release. This is a point and shoot pic <br>

<img src="http://www.color-pictures.com/images/animals/squirrels/235_10_ChipMunkFromBack_m.jpg"><br> My tripod is good enough if the shutter speed is above 100. But I don't want to use fast films to increase the speed unless I'm taking action. <br><br>

Matt, do you think stronger tripod will reduce the vibration caused by mirror movements? <br><br>

 

Thanks again

I know there are lots of threads about the tripods here. I've posted

earlier too. But I could not find the answer that I'm looking for.

That's why posting again. <Br><br>

 

Here's the question<br><br>

If I keep the 3 series CF tripod (G1325 or G1348) just with two

columns extended, would that be equal to G1548 all columns extended

in stregth? I use 500mm lens + 1.4X tele converter. I'm upgrading

from 340 tripod. I would like to use 500mm with 2X teleconverter some

times. 340 is kind of useless for this purpose unless it's in the

lowest position. That's the major reason I'm upgrading the tripod. If

I can save some weight that will be great too. That's why I'm

thinking about 3 series. <br><br>

All answers are appreciated. Thanks in advance. If there's somebody

who has both 3 and 5 series CF tripods I hope they will be able to

answer my question.<br><br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-

pictures.com</a>

Eric, <br>

Sorry, this is not an asnwer. I was planning to put a question like this too. I'm also waiting for the answer. Thanks for the query. :)<br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-pictures.com</a>

I noticed it too. There's no conclusion. Or did he try to say this is not better than D1h? I'm not sure.

Didn't this post in photo.net yet. Hope this is usefull for digital

shooters <br>

<a href="http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-6447-

6490" target="w-1">http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?

cid=7-6447-6490</a><br><br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-

pictures.com</a>

I agree with John. I've been using SoftTalk2000 for last two years. Good thing about this is that it will work with n90s, F100 and F5. I use MC-31 (NOT mc-33) Nikon says MC-33 is the cord for F100 and F5. But I've used MC-31 which is originally produced for n90s. That will work fine. I never ever had a problem. <a href="http://www.cocoon-creations.com/COCOON-Home.shtml" target="w-3">Cocoon-Creations </a> also makes a cord for this purpose. That should work too.... <br>

Have fun<br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-pictures.com</a>

Great shot Arnab!!

Kenko 1.4X Pro 300. <br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-pictures.com</a>

So those three brand new film scanners announced were to help other film camera manufacturers. I guess this is just point and shoot film cameras. I'm not going to sell my ever favourite toy (F5):)

Yakim,<br>

Your theory is correct for film photography. But for digital both camera and lens contribute to the image quality.

I don't think this is good enough for 400mm or 500mm lenses. I use Kirk BH-1 which is great. AS B-1 is same. Gimbal would be even better if you can afford. Good luck.

D2H Couple of samples <br><br>

<a href="http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/NikonD2Hsamples.shtml" target="w-2">http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/NikonD2Hsamples.shtml</a>

<br><br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-3">www.color-pictures.com</a>

I use 340 (older name of 1340) with Ball head for 500mm + 1.4 teleconverter. It's fine if the shutter speed is above 100. If the shutter speed is around 50 or so then I cannot use the tripod with all the legs stretched. But IS will help here. So I believe you will be fine.

I bought my F5 which was around 5 years old (I had to find it from the serial number). It had around 130 rolls through it according to the data download. So 500 rolls in 2 years is heavy use for me. It's again depend on the price.

Most of the people praising VueScan over Nikon. In my experience Nikon software gives more consistent colors and ICE. VuesScan is great sometimes. There are times that I could not get acceptable image from VueScan and Nikon gives much better. I have no idea why is that.

I agree with Arnab. If you have no plan to buy lots of lenses in the future go for Contax. Their 28-85 lens is the sharpest normal zoom in the market. I'm not sure if it's compatible with NX. Good luck

Christopher<br>

I use the same scanner with windows 98 and 2000. I never had a problem like this. Are you aware that LS-30 is not supported in XP? I saw this in Nikon Usa site <br><a href="http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_sid=-WwLHLXg&p_lva=&p_faqid=123&p_created=1029778407&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MyZwX3Byb2RfbHZsMT0yNSZwX3Byb2RfbHZsMj0zMSZwX2NhdF9sdmwxPTIzJnBfcGFnZT0x&p_li=">LS-30 download</a><br>

Is there any way for you to try on any other operating system?<br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-pictures.com</a>

Wow!!!<br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-2">www.color-pictures.com</a>

Is your question about 3221 or heads? I know Kirk BH-1 is strong enough to deliver sharp images even at focal length 1000mm. That's what I use. But I doubt about 3221. I didn't get good result until I bought Gitzo 340. But I guess 340 is minimum. I wish if I could afford 1548. <br><br>

There's no question about Gymbal heads. If the extra weight and price is OK with you Gymbal is more convenient than ball heads.<br><br>Good luck<br>

<a href="www.color-pictures.com" target="w-1">www.color-pictures.com</a>

As you can see there're lots of answers to your question. I'm sure you like to have one line answer. Unfortunately there's nothing like that. I used ask myself this question and found the answer is in different things. Gloria said it right. Technique is more important than Equipment. I guess patience and effort is equally important. You should be lucky to get out and come back with a beautiful bird picture in a moment. Most of the time you have to plan and watch the birds for a while. You need to have lots of patience and energy. <br><br>

One more thing I like to mention. Blinds. Set a bird blind and feeder in your backyard. You will get lots of birds there. Then even 300mm is good enough for few birds.

Mike<BR>

I'm not a pro or an expert to give one piece of advice. But hope this may help.<BR>

This chipmunk shot is taken at 1/20 sec at f/7.1 with 500mm lens on a tripod.<BR>

Tripod is Gitzo 340 and head is Kirk BH-1<BR>

Film is Velvia 100F(ISO 100). I've scanned it using LS-30. No Unsharp mask to sharpen the image. Believe me, the slide looks sharper than this. If there's any softness it's because of the scanner. <BR>

<IMG SRC="http://my.execpc.com/~jemini/chipmunk.jpg"><BR>

I keep and download the shooting information from F5. That's how I put it in my web site. You can see it here. <BR>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com/display.asp?rollid=235&frameno=10" target="w-2">http://www.color-pictures.com/display.asp?rollid=235&frameno=10</a><BR><BR>

I guess the credit goes to the sturdy tripod. Once the camera is on the tripod the challenge is to point the camera/lens to the subject in time because long teles are heavy. I'm an average man. I cannot see any problem carrying around 15 pounds of equipments. But this is no way like a carrying a camera with 50mm lens and shoot around. You will have to plan and go.

Oh I forgot to mention that shutter speed 1/125 is good enough to freeze a bird at rest and may be around 1/250 to feeze a flying bird. This is the theory. You should have proper support and experience to get results. I didn't mean to advice you as I'm also a 'student' in this field. Just like to discuss and learn..

You will learn lots of things once you start bird photography. It's almost impossible to go and buy the equipment and get the results. Each and every piece of the equipments (including tripod) and your techniques can affect the image quality. Lens, film and tripod are (yes tripod is equally important. It took a while for me to reallize this) most important factors if you are into film photography. If you use digital then the camera affects it instead of film. <br>

In final presentation on the web or printing scanning is bottleneck for film users. This is my problem right now. I use a cheap scanner. After all you should be an expert in Photo shop. <br><br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com" target="w-1">http://www.color-pictures.com</a><br><br>

Good luck

Shun<br>

Thanks. The sigma is 6.8LB. So they are close. I won't save any weight if I move to this lens. But this lens has 4.2 photodo rating which is super sharp.

Armando <br><br>

Would you mind telling us what exactly the weight of 300/2.8 AF-I? I've considered this before buying my sigma 500. I've realized that I'll be using 2X teleconverter almost 100% of time with this lens for bird photography to get a reasonable focal length. That's why I went for Sigma. I'm just curious. <br>

Thanks